Fuel Hardlines

[Maeda]

So i'm running new hard-lines from the tank up to my motor.

What size OD are they in the S14?

:ugh:

I don't have a 240 but I do have a KA in my car, long story, so NO I can't run out and just measure it.

Has anyone converted the Nismo FPR to AN fittings before?

Looking into doing ALL HARD-LINES ALL THE TIME. UHHHH.
http://www.anplumbing.com/search/index?yt0.x=7&yt0.y=12&yt0=submit&search_text=AT165156

http://image.hotrod.com/f/incoming/9278992+w968/113_0708_04_z%2bhard_line%2bf_bomb_engine.jpg

[MrSanchez925]

Should be the same size as the rubber line... 5/16ths.. about 8mm.

But id wait for someone to verify that

[Croustibat]

If you go hardlines every, by all mean make a pro do it (i mean a hydrolics pro, not a car tuning shop). OEM hardlines have various bends and sometimes are formed like a spring. And they are in fact springs at that point, allowing for flex and extension, for tension relief. The lines on these pics surely look cool, but they dont have these reliefs, meaning they will crack.

[jr_ss]

Between motor and chassis you have to have a flexible section. Otherwise things will kink OT crack as stated when the motor torques.

[Dalton]

5/16 just did mine

[codyace]

They are 5/16 for sure but most aftermarket rails are -6 inlet/outlet so you will need a conversion fitting from -5 to -6 at some point.

With that considered, if you can run -6 (3/8) line the entire way you will probably save some cash on fittings as they will be common.

[Maeda]

they also make -6 | 5/16" fittings

[Maeda]

If you go hardlines every, by all mean make a pro do it (i mean a hydrolics pro, not a car tuning shop). OEM hardlines have various bends and sometimes are formed like a spring. And they are in fact springs at that point, allowing for flex and extension, for tension relief. The lines on these pics surely look cool, but they dont have these reliefs, meaning they will crack.

I'm going to do it, and i'm going to just do things that are attached from one part of the motor to another part of the motor. Anything that attaches to the chassis will have some relief in there.

It's not rocket surgery, but i'll come back and let you i-told-you-so me with some nice cracked fuel-line engine fire pictures, if that happens.

[codyace]

-6 | 5/16" fittings
\/ \/ \/

so you will need a conversion fitting from -5 to -6 at some point



I still suggest just going -6 the entire way....I'd assume if you're going hard-lines you're going to making power...so you may as well get the -6 on there and be done...unless it's all for show.



I'm going to do it, and i'm going to just do things that are attached from one part of the motor to another part of the motor. Anything that attaches to the chassis will have some relief in there.

It's not rocket surgery, but i'll come back and let you i-told-you-so me with some nice cracked fuel-line engine fire pictures, if that happens.

No reason to get cocky over it all, he's providing some information. Just as you make fun of him for being overly cautious with the lines, we could have easily flamed you for not searching first, and could have teased you about welding a fitting to the lower FPR return on a Nismo unit (in which if you're doing it for power, or for being nice, why not go aftermarket)

[Maeda]

:wan:

..........

[Croustibat]

I'm going to do it, and i'm going to just do things that are attached from one part of the motor to another part of the motor. Anything that attaches to the chassis will have some relief in there.

It's not rocket surgery, but i'll come back and let you i-told-you-so me with some nice cracked fuel-line engine fire pictures, if that happens.

It is not rocket surgery at all. Just remember your brake lines have these spring like shapes, and they are not going from chassis to motor, but from chassis to chassis.

Engines vibrate, add this to metal contracting and expanding. If you dont use reliefs on every line (like spring like shape, or simply a bit of flexible hose), it will break. Usually at the worst possible time, you have to thank murphy for that.

For example, if the turbo oil feed line breaks, you may end up with a fire in the engine bay, a dead turbo, and if it happens when cornering you will crash (panic + oil on tyres + sudden loss of power = fail )

The same goes with fuel, or brake fluid.

[Maeda]

I'm piecing this together now. Thanks for the input.
The only line i have that runs from chassis to motor is fuel, so i'll add a bit of flexible hose when transitioning to the motor for the feed and the return.

More as this progresses. I still have a motor to build.

[Maeda]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/Maeda/e30/P1090816_zpsffcdab80.jpg

Rocket Surgery!

Just an update for anyone dumb enough to follow me.

Buy good tools.

Use stainless steel.

37 degree and 45 degree are NOT the same thing at all.

[codyace]

That came out nice, what flare tool did you use with the stainless?

[supersayianjim]

ditto!!! iam thinking about just buying this kit, as I need to replace my fuel and brake lines due to old age rust..

Carisma LLC Engine Bay Brake Line Kit for 89 98 Nissan 240sx | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/151230483936?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

[Maeda]

That came out nice, what flare tool did you use with the stainless?

The Rigid 37 degree tool. Works pretty well, although the OD of the tubes im using is a hair wide, and tends to get a little scuffed in the tool.

I also picked up a nice imperial bender with a movable handle.

My pops also gave me a really old Imperial 45 degree flare tool.

I ended up doing as you suggested and used 3/8" from most everything. I have a 45 degree fitting on the 5/16, then a -6 AN adapter off the tank, and then from the firewall up I'm doing 3/8 hard line(-6AN). Now I have to figure out how to straighten 8 feet of 5/16 when my vise is 3 feet from the wall.


This stuff requires extremely good measuring.. There's no room for fudging anything, and you have to be very very methodical, so in a way it is a bit more like rocket surgery than I initially imagined.

[Maeda]

ditto!!! iam thinking about just buying this kit, as I need to replace my fuel and brake lines due to old age rust..

This is the opposite of bad-assery.

You should pick up some stainless steel tube, a bender, a flaring tool, and make new hard lines that mount low on the firewall. :trogdor:

[Maeda]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/Maeda/e30/P1090818_zps3cdf1736.jpg

[codyace]

Cool to know. I know stainless wrecks havoc on cheaper 37* flare tools, good to hear you have a nice setup going.

Cool to hear it all worked out for you - I love the look of hardlines but I'm impatient and would have the back and 'all fouled up' because I'd hastily measure to just get it done LOL.


The Rigid 37 degree tool. Works pretty well, although the OD of the tubes im using is a hair wide, and tends to get a little scuffed in the tool.

I also picked up a nice imperial bender with a movable handle.

My pops also gave me a really old Imperial 45 degree flare tool.

I ended up doing as you suggested and used 3/8" from most everything. I have a 45 degree fitting on the 5/16, then a -6 AN adapter off the tank, and then from the firewall up I'm doing 3/8 hard line(-6AN). Now I have to figure out how to straighten 8 feet of 5/16 when my vise is 3 feet from the wall.


This stuff requires extremely good measuring.. There's no room for fudging anything, and you have to be very very methodical, so in a way it is a bit more like rocket surgery than I initially imagined.