clutch pedal wont pop back up!

[joeellltt]

I was driving and then noticed my clutch pedal sinking and then it just stayed there. i was thinking it could be the seal, slave or master cylinder. should i just replace all of them or which one could it exactly be?

[jr_ss]

Try rebleeding the clutch. If you cannot get the pedal stiffness back, replace the items with OEM units. Do not waste your money on rebuilt or aftermarket units, they all seem to fail again in a short time.

[anti tyler]

Clutch slave cylinder... It's like $15 at advance or autozone. Just replace it.

[iamtheyi]

bleed it. Check for leaks in either or. Replace them with OE units. I used aftermarket shit from Autozone before and it was a terrible experience. Almost 2 months of headaches. Maybe 3? I was poor and cheap then ahhahaha.

[joeellltt]

Ok cause i just saw that the seal that is on the trans from the slave is ripped and it has play...

Im getting iffy.

[WOTandSDWYS]

Had this happen once after a spec stage 3 clutch install, it ended up being a broken pivot ball. But also this happened all at once and was not sinking and then stayed down. They sell slave cylinder rebuild kits, but you'd be better off just replacing the whole thing. Saves time and effort. But you could also try bleeding the slave, but I imagine just off the top of my head that you're looking at a new slave.

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[dawagarage]

proceed in this sequence.

check for leaks. if none, flush/bleed your system.
if that doesnt fix it, replace the slave cylinder (then bleed system.)
if that doesnt work, replace master cylinder (then bleed system.)
if that doesnt work, drop your transmission for inspection.

this order is the most logical and economical.

i second the recommendation to use oem equipment over cheap, chinese, aftermarket shit, as well. ive used both. a lot of times the parts that come in the aftermarket rebuild kits (or full assemblies) do not match oe sizing. the rod in the slave cylinder, the rubber boot, and the spring, for instance. i speak from experience.

[Rut Ro]

^what he said. If you don't mind rebleeding the slave again, do the damper delete and add a braided clutch line. Improved the response of the clutch a lot. Good luck.

[Danial]

The pedal being on the ground means that there is less pressure in the hydraulic system than previously there had been. This can be caused by air bubbles, a leak, a failed slave, a failed master.... just start replacing until it goes away isnt usually a bad idea in the clutch department

First check the level of your clutch fluid and throw a clean piece of cardboard under the car overnight to check for leaks.

Jack the car up and visually inspect the lines, especially at their connections. Large amounts of gunk and dirt around an area can indicate a slow leak you might not see.

If there are leaks then you may want to consider replacing lines with stainless steel braided equivalents.

If there are no leaks then move on to what hotboiblaze suggested.

[koukistylejdm]

pull on the pedal as hard as you can it should work

[Danial]

pull on the pedal as hard as you can it should work

why would that work? do you have a reasoning

[joeellltt]

So removed the dampener, and rebled it. And everything works good!

[iamtheyi]

naisu. Took you long enough though LOL

[joeellltt]

haha yeah it did cause i only work on it after work. But she will start looking brand and rebuilt soon. :bow:

[koukistylejdm]

i said that cuz i actualy seen this working from my eyes on a hardbody truck

[Wookie384]

An easy way to check if the master cylinder is bad when you have this problem, is to look at the firewall under the dash where the brake and clutch pedals mount up, if you see fluid leaking from master cylinder, then it's definitely bad.