No Start issue... Hoped it wouldn't come to this

[Diehardsr20]

Ok so I bought a 1993 240sx with a swapped in sr20det redtop. Bought it last july and it was kinda troubled such as idling at 2000rpms and it wouldn't start unless you cranked the engine for a second or two, then unplug the injectors, then cranked it again, then it would start for a second and you'd have to run and plug all the injectors back in to keep it running. Well a couple months ago I hit a rough patch of road and it did something funny afterwards. I made it up the block to a friends house it was running, after about 30 minutes there I went back outside it wouldn't start at all. I know I'm getting fuel but no spark. I pulled the codes which at the time were : 11, 25, 34, 43. Now I had known about the last 3 codes but 11 was a new one. So begins my path on this devil of a car.

Now the previous owner did the wiring harness himself. I have gone back into this mess and :

1. checked every pin from ecu end to sensor connector end with a ohms meter (no dead connections, all grounds are great, each pin and wire is where it is supposed to be) soldered all my connections plus heatshrink (he used crimp connections and electrical tape, I did away with all that)

2. replaced my tps

3. cleaned my iacv (idle control valve)

4. bypassed the knock sensor with a 1 k ohm resistor

5. bought another ignitor chip (had a q45 on it)

6. replaced my coils

7. replaced my CAS, made sure both cam arms were facing outwards (meaning number 1 exhaust and intake valves are closed) and lined up the dots before inserting it into the head. Crank marked 2nd line from left. Checked all 4 pins, found continuity from CAS back to ECU:
1 - B - GROUND
2 - B/W - 38/47.
3 - B - 22/30
4 - W - 31/40

8. bought another ecu 62 since I found 2 burned spots on my original ecu's circuit board (the one near the front that burns out and kills fuel apparently and had already been solder fixed, and a burnt transistor near the back of the ecu which is what I'm guessing started my problem)

Coils are seeing 12 volts, all my power and grounds are correct (even to the back of the head for the coils, engine to firewall). Fuel pressure kicks up to 43 while priming. I'm also getting fuel on my spark plugs. Now my new ecu is going back and forth, between code 11 only (CAS), then it will display only code 55 (CONSULT PORT AKA EVERYTHING IS FINE) but still no spark or start. I'm really at a loss here. I've spent too much cash on things that apparently aren't helping me. I hate to be another no start no spark but after reading everything I could and trying everything I've read I'm at a loss. It just cranks and cranks but no start.

ANY INSIGHT WOULD BE GREAT! I've loved nissans all my life. This is the first to give me these woes.

[Mikester]

When you put the CAS in, did you account for the fact that it turns slightly as you push it in to mate up with the cam?

Other than that, sounds like you've done a pretty good job of trouble shooting.

One thing I would maybe recommend (not to keep throwing parts at it) is a Wiring Specialties harness... That way, you know for FACT that the wiring from the bay to the ECU is 100% perfect.

Sucks man- hope you figure it out.

[Diehardsr20]

Sorry for the late reply and thanks for your reply!

I did take into account for the slight twist on the CAS when it engages the cam gear. I installed it with the valve cover off to make sure I wasn't a tooth off or anything. I even watched a couple youtube vids to make sure I wasn't being an idiot haha

I think I may of found it, however I'm not 100% sure. My CAS pins 3 and 4 (1 degree out and 180 degree out) are showing a continuity reading but not consistently i.e. shifting the wires around or moving the harness. I think I've got some old or corroded wires. I believe I'm going to pull the harness back out and and fully replace those 2 wires from the CAS connector to ecu connector and this should get rid of my code 11. If anything it may come to the Wiring Specialties Harness.

I will post up my results on my next day off. Haven't had one since I posted that and my next one will be a while since 4 people, including my manager, has quit in the last week. I just hope my problem doesn't end like all the rest of the forums I've read where the person posting the problem never figures it out.

I don't know if it matters but it's an all stock redtop except fmic, full exhaust and header, and walbro 255lph fuel pump.

STAY SIDEWAYS!

[Diehardsr20]

Ok so I have since gone back into it. Fixed both wires. I had also tested my body plugs and found I had no 12v switched with the ign on to my black/white wires to ecu pins 38/47. I tied it into the 12v from the black and red wire from the grey plug. ECU throws code 55 continuously now, except the part where I still have no spark at any of the plugs and only my number 3 & 4 injectors are firing now. Iv'e flipped the cas 180 out and then 180 out again to see if I may of had it backwards. It's still the same.

[powermymotor]

aw that is bad. im about to get a nissan an run my own swap.. but ima be ahead .. n research before i run into problems..i havent heard of pulling off the injectors n plugging it back for it to start.. but yeh the guy that says get new wiring harness might be right.. electrical (and ecu) to start the car..


maybe the guy who solder the harness wasnt good enough.. n causing start up malfunction..

[kennedy8383]

If you're not getting spark then the wiring issuse because this happen to me before when i connect the wiring wrong. Dealing with electrical headache

[Diehardsr20]

HOW ABOUT YOU..... MAYBE IT'S ME. THEN AGAIN WITH THE 20+ DEAD END FORUMS ON NO SPARK ISSUES IT COULD ONLY BE ME. I ALREADY REPLACED THE ECU "BUD", CODE 55 ALL DAY LONG AFTER REPLACING THOSE TWO WIRES FOR SIGNALS FROM CAS TO ECU. IF ALL MY CONNECTIONS ARE CORRECT IN ECU PIN LOCATION AND MAKE A CONNECTION FROM ECU TO SENSOR PIN THEN HOW IS IT THE HARNESS? I DON'T THINK YOU GIVE A DAMN "POWERMYMOTOR" OTHERWISE YOU WOULD HAVE READ THAT I ALREADY REPLACED THE ECU. OH BUT YOUR RIGHT. MY DUMBASS IS THE ONLY ONE WHO COULDN'T FIGURE THIS OUT. THE INJECTOR TRICK (AND I SAY TRICK LIGHTLY CAUSE IT'S NOT) TO GET IT RUNNING WAS BECAUSE OF A FAULTY TPS AND A WALBRO 255LPH FUEL PUMP. IT WOULD FLOOD AT START. SO HOW DO YOU NOT FLOOD IT? OH MY BLOODY GOD REMOVE THE FUEL SOURCE FOR A SECOND. APPARENTLY MY 12V AT MY COILS, AT MY BROWN, RED/BLACK, RED/BLUE, BLACK WHITE (TO ECU PINS 37/48) AND THE FACT THAT ALL MY GROUNDS (CYLINDER HEAD, FIREWALL, ETC) PASS WITH FLYING COLORS FROM A TEST LIGHT AND VOLTMETER JUST BAFFLES ME.

OH YEAH IT'S JUST ME :
sr20det issues no spark (http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/threads/114357-sr20det-issues-no-spark)

sr20det vtc no spark/ no start (http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/51597-sr20det-vtc-no-spark-no-start.html)

DET no spark ? (http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/55734-det-no-spark.html)

crank but no start (http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/47821-crank-but-no-start.html)

SR20det wont start, injectors wont fire, no spark - Nissan 240SX Forums (http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/sr20de-det/130553-sr20det-wont-start-injectors-wont-fire-no-spark.html)

SR20DET No Start - Nissan 240SX Forums (http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/sr20de-det/118131-sr20det-no-start.html)

sr20 no-start, no-fuel, no-spark- no nothing - Nissan 240SX Forums (http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/sr20de-det/76995-sr20-no-start-no-fuel-no-spark-no-nothing.html)

THAT SEARCH WASN'T EVEN HALFWAY DOWN THE WEBPAGE AND I FOUND ALL THESE FOR YOU. ^^^

BUT YEAH MAYBE IT IS JUST ME WHO HAS THE ONE S13 THAT IS PLAGUED WITH THESE PROBLEMS. EVEN THOUGH ALL THESE SIGHTS I USED FOR KNOWLEDGE STILL DIDN'T HELP. I DID MY RESEARCH. THIS ISN'T MY FIRST RODEO.

SR20DET Swap Engine Harness Wiring Diagram Guide SR SR20 (http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html)

sr20det swap step by step? - Nissan 240SX Forums (http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/s13-240sx-89-94/12208-sr20det-swap-step-step.html)

Six-Hour Engine Swap (http://www.superstreetonline.com/techarticles/3430/)

SR20 Setup Tips (http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/sr_setup_tips.shtml)

Tune2Win | Do-It-Yourself Tech Articles | Nissan 240SX SR20DET Engine Swap Guide Part 1 (http://www.tune2win.com/index.php/diy_tech/nissan_240sx_sr20det_engine_swap_guide/)

Wiring guide: 1991-1993 Nissan 180SX/Silvia S13 SR20DET (http://forums.ma240sx.net/showthread.php?tid=8421)

The Ultimate 240SX Bible Volume 1 - Nissan 240SX Forums (http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/beginner-s-forum/85222-ultimate-240sx-bible-volume-1-a.html)

THIS HASN'T BEEN MY FIRST PROJECT, I'VE HAD PLENTY OF EXPIERIENCE WITH MY HANDS UNDER A HOOD OR ON A CHASSIS. I WILL ADMIT HOWEVER THIS IS MY FIRST COIL ON PLUG CAR HOWEVER, I'VE NEVER SEEN PROBLEMS LIKE THIS PLAGUE A CAR COMMUNITY.

BOTTOM LINE IS THIS. I'M SHELLING OUT THE CASH TO REPLACE THE HARNESS, AND WHEN IT DOESN'T FIX MY PROBLEM I'D LIKE YOU TO BUY IT FROM ME "POWERMYMOTOR" AT DOUBLE THE COST I PAYED FOR IT SINCE YOUR SO GOOD AT RESEARCH I BET YOU'D HAVE THIS FIXED IN A "JIFFY''. WILLING TO GAMBLE A BIT? OR JUST GET TO STEPPING.

[slideslidegnarslide]

Look man it's not the sr's fault your having wiring problems.

There are a million sr red tops on this forum that are super reliable.

Maybe you can give us more info on the engine?

Is it stock?

I know this is pissing you off but just relax haha. Read those other threads. Maybe it will give you an idea. And by the sounds of it a new harness would be worth it since your finding crappy wires and connections. Also make sure all of your grounds are in a proper place.

Unplugging your injectors to start it then having to plug them back in sounds like you were cranking it, flooding it, (unplug) starts, then you plug it back in and it's running crazy rich.

Just saw that you already said this^ are you running larger injectors with out a tune? Is your fuel pressure set right? Maybe you have a buddy with a running sr that you can borrow parts to trouble shoot? Sorry just trying to help


Sound about right? Give us a run down we will help.

[Jesus_lopez405]

That's why I would never buy someone else's swap.most people don't do shit correctly and then you're fixing their problems. Take it to a shop that does sr swaps have them diagnose it then maybe you can do it yourself or have them fix it.

[Diehardsr20]

I know it's not the sr's fault. This is just plaguing my mind right now and it's frustrating. I've been trying everything for the past couple of months to resurrect this car.

It's a redtop s13, stock 62 ecu, walbro 255, full header and exhaust, fmic intercooler. other than that it's a stock s13 redtop. I have the stock 370cc injectors. The flooding problem I believe is now fixed after cleaning up the IACV and replacing the tps with a good one, but I won't know cause I can't get spark at my plugs to start it.

Now it's not fuel I'm really having a problem with. I can pull out my CAS and rotate it by hand and hear my injectors click and fuel pressure stablilize, but spark plugs 1, 2, 3, and 4 still have no spark.

I wish there was another redtop sr20 running around here to try some parts (harness, ecu, ignitor, etc,) from but the nearest s20det swapped car is about 300 miles north or south of me. No bs when I say I own the only 240sx for probably 50 miles and the only sr20det for 300 miles. It would make troubleshooting this car easier but I don't have that option, that I know of yet.

We also don't have any shops around here anymore. The best one would have been a mustang turbocharger shop that was here in Roswell, NM but they shut down about 2 years ago. Nobody has experience with the sr20 here. We have honda shops around here, but when they say you don't need a ecu tune to go forced induction I think I'd steer clear of them (that just didn't make sense in my head when I heard it, you have to have more fuel for more air). We have a couple dealerships but that's about as far as it goes. The Nissan dealership here wanted $1200 just to change a timing belt and that didn't include the $250 something in parts (gaskets, water pump, etc). When I brought up my electrical nightmare to them they said they could PROBABLY do it, but couldn't give me a price tag before the work and couldn't guarantee the work would last afterwards.


IS THERE ANYONE WITH EXPERIENCE ON THE SR20DET REDTOP LIVING IN THE SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO REGION?

Til then I'm saving my cash for the Wiring Specialties Harness. It's the last thing on my list I haven't replaced. I completely agree with you Jesus_lopez405, should have just done this entire swap myself rather than sourcing a 240sx with one already. I trust my work through and through. It would have saved me this trouble in hindsight

[slideslidegnarslide]

So your problem now is just spark?

Use a volt meter and see if there is power at the coil packs if not go just before the igniter. And so on maybe you'll find your gremlin.


( I suck with electrical stuff so take my advice with a grain of salt but some one here knows what's up)

[J3123MY]

lol lol sell your car. its fucked. junk it. send it back to hell. lol you mad.

[s13drob]

Your gonna need a adjustable FPR to have the right afrs with that walbro. Your gonna run rich if the fuel pressure is not at 43.5psi (with vacuum line disconnected). Fuel pressure will be an issue. Along with a new harness.

[mobmotorsports2002]

All the parts you have got so far have they been brand new or used? If the ignitor chip was used i'd check it to make sure it is good. I had a no start issue this week with my blacktop. Driving to work on the interstate afr's spike to 9.0 for a sec and the car died and would not start back up. I went on to work and had it towed home. After work i got in and it fired right up. My problem is the ignitor is getting hot and shorting out aka not letting me have spark. If you havent i'd look up how to test these parts if they are used before buying a new harness.

[godsmack]

By the ecu check for voltage on the 2 relays. Each relay should have 2 power sources going to them. If one of the sides is not getting power go and check voltage at the conntection from the body harness to engine harness.

I had this similar problem and traced it all back to the red wire (i think) on the body harness not getting power and being shorted. Fixed that wire and then everything worked perfectly.

Not sure if this will be your problem since there's way too many things that help contribute to spark. But I didn't see anywhere if you tried it.

[Diehardsr20]

Yes, my problem is NO SPARK. All injectors are working that was a mis-statement on my part. Recommend a good adjustable fpr that works on the stock fuel rail?

I show 12 volts at my coils with ignition on

What's the process for checking the ignitor chip (bought a used one)? I heard it involves ohm readings but couldn't find anything on it.

I noticed that the White/Black wire coming in from the body harness to my efi harness was not showing 12 volts at all with the key in any postion (off, run, start) which goes to pins 38/47 on the ecu and the cas and maf. I tied it into the Red/Blue Red/Black off the body harness and it has stopped showing codes except code 55. still no spark at plugs....

Any idea on the color coding for the wires to these 2 relays? I'm having a hard time finding them godsmack. It's probably right in front of me and I've just over looked them

Going to have the money to order the harness tomorrow.

[s13drob]

Try this if your not getting power to the white/black (ecu power)

http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/326755-no-ecu-power-no-start.html

[godsmack]

Yes, my problem is NO SPARK. All injectors are working that was a mis-statement on my part. Recommend a good adjustable fpr that works on the stock fuel rail?

I show 12 volts at my coils with ignition on

What's the process for checking the ignitor chip (bought a used one)? I heard it involves ohm readings but couldn't find anything on it.

I noticed that the White/Black wire coming in from the body harness to my efi harness was not showing 12 volts at all with the key in any postion (off, run, start) which goes to pins 38/47 on the ecu and the cas and maf. I tied it into the Red/Blue Red/Black off the body harness and it has stopped showing codes except code 55. still no spark at plugs....

Any idea on the color coding for the wires to these 2 relays? I'm having a hard time finding them godsmack. It's probably right in front of me and I've just over looked them

Gonna have the money to order the harness tomorrow. Already decided if it doesn't fix the problem I'm gonna start parting the chassis/engine out and get back to my other 2 projects I've been neglecting. Thank you for all the help! Still gonna try and get it in the next few days before I call it a loss.

I don't remember the color codes and I'm currently at work so don't have my fsm. But the way I checked it was just by pulling the relays out of the plugs and checking voltage that way. And I'm almost 100% sure that all of the power wires for the relays come from the connection from the body harness. But found this for ya to check out.

Wiring guide: 1991-1993 Nissan 180SX/Silvia S13 SR20DET (http://forums.ma240sx.net/showthread.php?tid=8421)

[powermymotor]

maybe ur coils are bad? i got my car fixed. turned out my car had a dead cel in the battery.. i am no mechanic though..u should look at the wiring going through the spark plugs??

[wurley]

Yes, my problem is NO SPARK. All injectors are working that was a mis-statement on my part. Recommend a good adjustable fpr that works on the stock fuel rail?

I show 12 volts at my coils with ignition on

What's the process for checking the ignitor chip (bought a used one)? I heard it involves ohm readings but couldn't find anything on it.

I noticed that the White/Black wire coming in from the body harness to my efi harness was not showing 12 volts at all with the key in any postion (off, run, start) which goes to pins 38/47 on the ecu and the cas and maf. I tied it into the Red/Blue Red/Black off the body harness and it has stopped showing codes except code 55. still no spark at plugs....

Any idea on the color coding for the wires to these 2 relays? I'm having a hard time finding them godsmack. It's probably right in front of me and I've just over looked them

Gonna have the money to order the harness tomorrow. Already decided if it doesn't fix the problem I'm gonna start parting the chassis/engine out and get back to my other 2 projects I've been neglecting. Thank you for all the help! Still gonna try and get it in the next few days before I call it a loss.

my ca18det wasn't running right because an idiot wired it so I bought a wiring specialties harness. Its worth it to not have to worry about your wiring failing on you.

If your coilpacks are getting 12v then its either not grounding or not getting a signal right? To check the ground just check the continuity to make sure it's making it to ground. The ignitor works by allowing the coilpacks to ground out and spark. To check the signal you just do continuity while the car is cranking.

If it's the signal, which it most likely is, then you have to test everything starting from the coilpacks back.

[Diehardsr20]

Well I have disappointing news. I ordered the Wiring Specialties Harness (s13 sr20det to 89-94 s13) and coil pack harness, installed it. Still nothing. Called their tech support. He walked me through an assortment of things. I'm getting 12v to the coils, on all my wires from the body harness (black/white showing 12v, etc), Cam Angle Sensor is getting voltage. The guy on the tech line was as baffled as I am. His best guess is the ignitor chip is bad.

EDIT------------
So basicly your saying, Wurley, is that as I have someone turn the motor over I need to check for ohms between the connectors and the ignitor chip?

[s13drob]

Ill give you a q45 ignitor chip if you pay for just shipping. I tested it and it works. It's plug and play for stock sr20det ignitor plugs.

[Diehardsr20]

Ill give you a q45 ignitor chip if you pay for just shipping. I tested it and it works. It's plug and play for stock sr20det ignitor plugs.

YOU ARE A LIFE-SAVER! I will pm you an address

[Alamo_City_210]

Thats paying it forward at its best right there. What a community should be about. Helping one another. Hope that helps with your issue. GL.

[s13drob]

Thats paying it forward at its best right there. What a community should be about. Helping one another. Hope that helps with your issue. GL.

I agree. Hope it solves the issue. Glad to help anyone out.

[wurley]

Well I have disappointing news. I ordered the Wiring Specialties Harness (s13 sr20det to 89-94 s13) and coil pack harness, installed it. Still nothing. Called their tech support. He walked me through an assortment of things. I'm getting 12v to the coils, on all my wires from the body harness (black/white showing 12v, etc), Cam Angle Sensor is getting voltage. The guy on the tech line was as baffled as I am. His best guess is the ignitor chip is bad.

EDIT------------
So basicly your saying, Wurley, is that as I have someone turn the motor over I need to check for ohms between the connectors and the ignitor chip?

At least you don't have to worry about a wiring mess.
Sorry if I suck at explaining. I'm saying check to make sure the ignitor is giving the signal to fire the coilpacks.
Hope you can get it fixed

[Diehardsr20]

You guys are awesome! I appreciate everyone's input and help. I'm gonna replace the ignitor chip with a known working one. I'll post up the results when I can. Just never had a gremlin like this plague a project. Ive lost quite a few hours of sleep trying to work this thing out haha.

[Diehardsr20]

I really missed that purrr! haha

It turns out it was 2 things and I'm going to detail what I found out since I'm not sure if anybody else has ever noticed this or it could possibly help someone who has been having similar issues. It was a mixture of faulty ignitor (DON'T BUY USED ONES UNLESS FROM CHRIS!) and cas.

Now during this process of trouble shooting I had my original CAS, and another CAS to replace my original (Remember in my first post a ecu code 11 was what started this whole mess). After installing the working ignitor chip from chris I was still not getting spark so my last thought was it has to be the CAS.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Blank189/20130715_1756261.jpg
As you can see here is the Signal Wheel from the replacement cas with my original cas next to it

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Blank189/20130715_1756331.jpg

And here is the replacement cas with my original Signal Wheel

Now here's the weird thing. That first wheel with in the first picture, when it was installed into either cas I would get fuel, BUT NO SPARK FROM EITHER CAS! So then I swapped the replacement trigger wheel (wheel in first pic) with my original trigger wheel (second pic) and it started working.

Basicly what I'm saying is the trigger wheel was causing problems as well. You can see they are physically different. However the wheel on the radiator support would not trigger spark in either my original or the replacement cas, but the one in the second photo would, REGARDLESS OF WHICH CAS IT WAS IN! At the same time however, both wheels would cause fuel to inject but only 1 wheel would actually trigger spark aka ignition. If I remember correctly I read that these CAS work using a LED and as the wheel passes in front of it it converts the flashes of light through the trigger wheel into an electrical signal for the ecu or something along those lines. Does that sound kinda right?

swapped the trigger wheel out and swapped in chris's ignitor chip and she fired right up. My original cas was still faulty even though it was sparking it wasn't consistent when turing the motor over. The replacement cas with my original trigger wheel is what worked. That, and Chris bailing my ass out cause I purchased a used non-working ignitor chip before posting this thread up haha I never would have figured this out

HAS ANYONE ELSE EVER NOTICED THIS!

[Diehardsr20]

Just another 2 cents :

Since running the car I've set the idle and timing to 15btdc. Ran it for a week or two, it bogged, hesitated around 5k rpms, consistency wanting to die coming to a stop, hunting idle sweeps, etc. Since I've gapped my plugs to .038 and changed my base timing to 10btdc. After making the timing change its ran beautifully, no stumble at 5k rpms, no hunting idle, and it idles beautifully. Even from a 4.5k rpm drop to idle it hits 1krpm then rests nicely at 850rpms. Start up time was also cut in half.

If you are having similar problems its worth a try.

[s13drob]

Glad to hear. Well the only way I would check base timing is with nissan consult. Otherwise you have to pull the tps plug off and check when warm but i never had luck. Another thing is to use a cut off plug wire from a distributor ignition system. Cut the end off the distributor side and leave some wire out to contact the coil for the #1 cylinder and plug the spark plug end to the spark plug in the cylinder. Put the timing pickup clamp (?) on the plug wire and that's the most accurate way to pickup signal. The loop in the ignition coil harness isn't accurate half the time.

[Slows14kouki]

Wow I am having a similar issue..but with mines I have a short somewhere in my wiring..previous owners were idiots...no power really to my ecu sad.. and im still tearing it to find out wth it is

[metako42]

I really missed that purrr! haha

It turns out it was 2 things and I'm going to detail what I found out since I'm not sure if anybody else has ever noticed this or it could possibly help someone who has been having similar issues. It was a mixture of faulty ignitor (DON'T BUY USED ONES UNLESS FROM CHRIS!) and cas.

Now during this process of trouble shooting I had my original CAS, and another CAS to replace my original (Remember in my first post a ecu code 11 was what started this whole mess). After installing the working ignitor chip from chris I was still not getting spark so my last thought was it has to be the CAS.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Blank189/20130715_1756261.jpg
As you can see here is the Signal Wheel from the replacement cas with my original cas next to it

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Blank189/20130715_1756331.jpg

And here is the replacement cas with my original Signal Wheel

Now here's the weird thing. That first wheel with in the first picture, when it was installed into either cas I would get fuel, BUT NO SPARK FROM EITHER CAS! So then I swapped the replacement trigger wheel (wheel in first pic) with my original trigger wheel (second pic) and it started working.

Basicly what I'm saying is the trigger wheel was causing problems as well. You can see they are physically different. However the wheel on the radiator support would not trigger spark in either my original or the replacement cas, but the one in the second photo would, REGARDLESS OF WHICH CAS IT WAS IN! At the same time however, both wheels would cause fuel to inject but only 1 wheel would actually trigger spark aka ignition. If I remember correctly I read that these CAS work using a LED and as the wheel passes in front of it it converts the flashes of light through the trigger wheel into an electrical signal for the ecu or something along those lines. Does that sound kinda right?

swapped the trigger wheel out and swapped in chris's ignitor chip and she fired right up. My original cas was still faulty even though it was sparking it wasn't consistent when turing the motor over. The replacement cas with my original trigger wheel is what worked. That, and Chris bailing my ass out cause I purchased a used non-working ignitor chip before posting this thread up haha I never would have figured this out

HAS ANYONE ELSE EVER NOTICED THIS!
that top chopper wheel is a strange one! Wonder what it came off... I just read the thread and was thinking the whole time I'm going to tell you about my swap and how I took the chopper wheel off to straighten it and accidently put it in backwards and couldn't start the car for months till I finally discovered my mistake. But glad you finally worked it out.

[Diehardsr20]

Ok I know there were a couple searches done but I couldn't quite find a definitive answer. I've since done some more work but you were right its running rich. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and at idle with vaccum I'm roughly at 45psi and at wot I'm at 59psi (I'm only boosting 7psi). Now if I slowly roll on the throttle it will produce power up until redline (sometimes but not always) but say I'm in 3rd at 50mph and give it wot it feels like its falling on its face around 5000rpms. In any gear it will do it and its load specific I believe (meaning if i drop to like half throttle it picks power back up) Changing my gaps from.025 all the way to .040 and changed my base timing in between 10 degrees and 15 degrees. Code 55, walbro 255, z32 filter, 7psi of boost

Checked cts, maf, cas, tps, looked for boost/vacuum leaks couldn't find any (10inhg in nuetral, 15inhg coasting in gear to a stop) it feels like a lean condition (like you just ran out of gas without the stuttering) but there's no way with that much fuel delivery I wouldn't think. Plugs look normal, my exhaust is black but I don't have clouds of carbon under accel that I can see..
Is it possible my motor is literally flooding itself to death under boost? Will the nismo fpr I bought solve this?

Didn't want to start a new thread so I figured I'd tag it onto my old one

[wawazat8402]

Just glancing at the trigger wheel that didnt work for you, it looks like the one AEM released to fix their sync'ing issue with the SR.

I wonder if theguy you bought it from had AEM EMS.

[Diehardsr20]

Ok I found the culprit of my 5k rpms bogging. I'm dumping to much fuel pressure, my number 3 injector has a very small leak just above the tip of it (thinking its a bad o ring since its not leaking directly from the tip of the injector), and pcv on the valve cover was very loose (it looked in but was not sealing right)

This was after checking voltage/ohms from maf, tps, cas, cts (tested at cold, then hot, then back, ohms within spec), coils, injectors, and searching everywhere for boost/vacuum leaks

I've since fixed the loose pcv with a rubber grommet (idle inhg IS 15 WAS 9, coasting in gear is now 20 inhg FROM 13)

Pig rich fouled plugs

Will fix leaky o ring asap

Waiting on nismo fpr to arrive

After fixing the pcv it will now perform at wot but I can still feel power loss from the overun injectors atm from high fuel pressure.

[Diehardsr20]

Received nismo fpr today. Install took about 5 minutes. Dialed in the fuel pressure. Everything seems to of cleared up so far. Good idle, strong pull, way better mpg. Have noticed pressure drop from fuel system after key is turned off, but it has to be that leaky o-ring on injector 3.

A bit of info from my experience:

Even after installing the nismo fpr it still ran like crap for the first 30 miles or so. It seemed like after letting everything settle, having it at normal temps, and just letting it do its thing it cleared itself up. The trip home was a different experience than the initial first trip to a friends house. If at first you don't succeed, try again. Anyone can destroy something, it takes talent to build something.

Also, it seems a healthy engine (stock cams, correct vacuum lines, etc) should sit around 15inhg at idle or so with normal operating temps, and at 20inhg between shifts or coasting in gear from (e.g. 2500rpms or higher). Just my 2 cents for the person who searches this out.

[LayNLow]

Man most people give up when trying to chase problems around. Glad you got it all figured out and posted what was actually wrong. Such a dramatic difference between wheels, I would have to side with the guy that said the P/O had AEM EMS.

[Diehardsr20]

I will admit it tested me... really tested me as you could tell in some of my first posts haha. I did want to give up on it a couple times, but its a machine. Everything was telling me it should have worked and honestly when it didnt, somehow it was just a lucky find in pulling the cas covers off and noticing they were completely different "trigger wheels".

Also to many no start threads with misleading information (smalltime) or they lead absolutely no where in a solution. I really didn't want a boat anchor in my driveway.

Had some help from the members here on zilvia too!