Opinions on 1uz swap

[MrChow]

Since there isn't a big thread talking about this swap I'd like to hear some opinions.

I've been looking the swap for a bit now. I have an SR it can't do everything I want really well but I haven't tried everything I could to be happy with it and v8 just sounds simpler in the end.

I like the low end power band on the 1uz mainly. Anyways let discussion being!

Keep it clean guys please.

[Drift_FX]

your money your decisions.... this thread will die quickly....

[FaLKoN240]

1UZ doesn't make that much power at all. You're better off upping the boost than changing out your motor.

The grass is always greener.

[MrChow]

your money your decisions.... this thread will die quickly....
Why post even then... Don't reply trying to keep this thread clean.

I want Opinions about the swaps not kids playing with matches...
1UZ doesn't make that much power at all. You're better off upping the boost than changing out your motor.

The grass is always greener.

Yeah I know. I'm looking for that much power. Maybe around 300whp and good low-mid tq is what I'm looking for. 1uz makes that TQ number and in the range of rpm I like.

Just to note if we're talking about me. I'm a racing/driving instructor @Skip Barber so I've race my fair share of cars. If I could I'd love to take the IS-F motor and put it in the 240sx but that idea is just over board and cost too damn much. But from the cars I've driven I like the idea of the 1uz power band and the cost.

I already playing with 16psi. The 2871r power band isn't really fun for me on autoX or anything in the mid end. On Laguna it's fine but after a few laps I'm worried about other stuff and I'm not wanting to make a full on track car yet. I know I'd probably have to go down to a smaller turbo that's a different topic.

[Frank_Jaeger]

Maybe around 300whp and good low-mid tq is what I'm looking for. 1uz makes that TQ number and in the range of rpm I like.
You'll never hit 300whp on a NA 1UZ. You'd have to go with some form of forced induction, which completely negates your v8 simplicity argument. Might as well increase the boost on your SR.

[StryfeS13]

I drive an SC400 daily, and it's fun, but why bother, when you could go with an LS1, and achieve your 300whp goal easily?

[MrChow]

Okay I understand that I won't make 300whp.

The reason for not doing ls is cost. 1uz is much much cheaper and that the drivetrain is easier to do.


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[MrChow]

16psi is close to max for ca gas


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[brndck]

you're reinventing the wheel.
the amount of support for the SR far outweighs the 1uz.

[MrChow]

Posting from mobile I have no problems with my power I have no problems with my power it's the power band.


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[travypoo]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=475666485845391&set=a.320402194705155.74934.320207298057978&type=1&theater

This 1uz and another one in a Corolla both drift in the western canadian series, they both do pretty well. went for a ride along and wasnt all that impressive but the added trq is nice, a lot less clutch kicks!

[repda916]

you think its cheaper than an LS. but when it comes down to it, i would have rather gone LS than 1uz.
If you want to buy my 1uz to s13 swap though. let me know.

[Flicktitty]

You'll never hit 300whp on a NA 1UZ. You'd have to go with some form of forced induction, which completely negates your v8 simplicity argument. Might as well increase the boost on your SR.

Not quite. I wouldn't Say NEVER.

Most people go with the early year 1UZ-FE's Which do produce much lower numbers then the newer 1UZ's with the VVTi. But you have to remember that when you the majority of SC400/LS400/GS400 dyno videos/charts/numbers is that those numbers are through an automatic.

It's not uncommon to see 200-220whp on bolt on (intake/exhaust/safc) early 1UZ's going through an automatic. So you figure another 10-20whp just by putting that power through a manual transmission. Plus to get a 1UZ running in a S-Chassis i believe you need different headers, which i would have to think will net another 10whp. so your at 240-260whp through a manual bolt on 1UZ.

Import tuner did a dyno test on a GS400 back in 2004 and that car made 237WHP/254TQ Stock and with a intake,exhaust and a Y-Pipe that car made 252WHP/272TQ So again you put a manual behind that your in the 260-270whp and most likely 280-290TQ.

I'm sure if you got creative with a set of ITB's or camshafts. or had some sort of good tuning setup done on a Exhaust/intake/tune/header car you would be fine.

Don't forget you're not just talking horsepower you're talking torque at the same time. Which should be higher then what a 260-300whp SR20 Car will produce. Also a 1UZ with a W58 5spd weights in at 466lbs with the R154 you're looking at 486lbs where a 5spd SR20DET weighs 490lbs.


So you might be in the same boat on the dyno. But you won't have any turbo lag, you will have more low end torque, And in my opinion one of the best sounding V8's out their So while you might not win any dyno competitions or hit 300whp without ITBS or Cams.

[shoguner]

It's not easy,
But it sure is fun.
Check out my build thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/499055-what-real-build-thread-videos-pictures-surprise-end-brngit.html

I would do this over a ls1 anyday.

vvti 1uz make 300hp at the crank.
but on a ls400/sc400 engine, if you port and polish, make nice headers, get itbs, you can hit 300hp.

But 1uz's take a fair amount of money to make alot of power n/a
it would be easier to turbo/supercharge it.

You'll never hit 300whp on a NA 1UZ. You'd have to go with some form of forced induction, which completely negates your v8 simplicity argument. Might as well increase the boost on your SR.

Haha don't post info that you don't know.
URRZKze21BU

[MrChow]

Not quite. I wouldn't Say NEVER.

Most people go with the early year 1UZ-FE's Which do produce much lower numbers then the newer 1UZ's with the VVTi. But you have to remember that when you the majority of SC400/LS400/GS400 dyno videos/charts/numbers is that those numbers are through an automatic.

It's not uncommon to see 200-220whp on bolt on (intake/exhaust/safc) early 1UZ's going through an automatic. So you figure another 10-20whp just by putting that power through a manual transmission. Plus to get a 1UZ running in a S-Chassis i believe you need different headers, which i would have to think will net another 10whp. so your at 240-260whp through a manual bolt on 1UZ.

Import tuner did a dyno test on a GS400 back in 2004 and that car made 237WHP/254TQ Stock and with a intake,exhaust and a Y-Pipe that car made 252WHP/272TQ So again you put a manual behind that your in the 260-270whp and most likely 280-290TQ.

I'm sure if you got creative with a set of ITB's or camshafts. or had some sort of good tuning setup done on a Exhaust/intake/tune/header car you would be fine.

Don't forget you're not just talking horsepower you're talking torque at the same time. Which should be higher then what a 260-300whp SR20 Car will produce. Also a 1UZ with a W58 5spd weights in at 466lbs with the R154 you're looking at 486lbs where a 5spd SR20DET weighs 490lbs.


So you might be in the same boat on the dyno. But you won't have any turbo lag, you will have more low end torque, And in my opinion one of the best sounding V8's out their So while you might not win any dyno competitions or hit 300whp without ITBS or Cams.
Thank for posting! Some real discussion finally.

From what I've research the 1uz makes what 250ish hp more or less from the different year motor at the crank which isn't that bad for the cost.

Power vs usable power basically.

It's not easy,
But it sure is fun.
Check out my build thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/499055-what-real-build-thread-videos-pictures-surprise-end-brngit.html

I would do this over a ls1 anyday.

vvti 1uz make 300hp at the crank.
but on a ls400/sc400 engine, if you port and polish, make nice headers, get itbs, you can hit 300hp.

But 1uz's take a fair amount of money to make alot of power n/a
it would be easier to turbo/supercharge it.


Hmm..

People just made ITB's for the 1uz or u can use the 4ag 20v ITB's on the 1uz.

[Flicktitty]

There are a few companies that do ITB's for the 1UZ (i believe V-Eight is till the best click to buy ITB kit out there) OBX has started doing ITB kit for them too, which seeing how cheap most 240 people are and how cheap SC400s are getting now. i'd have to imagine someone has tried these.

Check out LExtreme too, alot of high quality 1UZ engine parts there.
Lexus-Toyota V8 Performance Parts - head studs, mls gaskets, shocks, lexus lcd, alternator (http://www.lextreme.com/allgo.html)

Also check out Kelford they make a good selection of camshafts
http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?categoryid=69

[MrChow]

Yeah I've seen but for now I'm more worry about the swap atm.

Also what your opinion on 1uz in a 240sx for DD car since they are solid mounts?

[racepar1]

I just don't understand why you would focus on the 1UZ. There are the VH45/41 Nissan V8's, the VK56 Titan engines, the VQ35, the LS1-7, or even build an SR for better response. ANY of those options would be technically better or more desirable in one way or another. Why drop a Toyota engine in??? Much less an underachieving Toyota engine... The ONLY non-Nissan engine that's worth it is the GM LS series. I mean, the IUZ is basically equal to the VH41. The VH45's are a bit more powerful in stock form even. Why swap the Toyota engine in? It doesn't make any sense...

[EthanR]

If you have to justify it, it's really not worth it.

My opinion, friend of mine had a 1UZ s14. It was a nice car, sounded nice, but you'll make more power and have an easier time doing it with the SR. As someone said above, you will have a hard time reaching 300whp. There just isn't the same support for the 1UZ as there are other V8's.

If cost is an issue, 350 isn't a bad option. You can pick one up off craigslist for 6 rubles.

[XakkGrill]

The 1UZ is a great engine.

To start they are cheap as hell. Almost every junk yard has one and they are not marked up like an LS1. That means pulling a motor/harness/electronics for about 400$. The adapter plates and parts can be obtained for about 1500$. The same parts required to install an LS1 run about +$5K. So 1UZ is way better on the wallet.

Wide TQ band - that's any v8, but an I4T lacks in that department. The early generation with the stronger rods and pistons make 250hp, but the VVTI version with the lighter rotating assembly makes 300. You also dont get IC heat soak/random detonation/boost spikes on a V8.

Can use a stock KA or SR trans. The trans doesnt even have to be moved, that means it is a cheap swap for an s13/s14 and it doesnt change driving position. The 1UZ also weighs about the same as a KA.

Its an oversquare V8, that means it likes high revs, that means cam's can make serious power. If 300hp isn't enough for you, throw on some twins and your looking at 700-1000hp. It has lot of potential.

It is reliable: noninterferance engine. So if you leave the stock cams in it you'll never trash the head. They can also withstand way more power than your typical I4T setup.

So the run down is: its cheaper than almost all swaps, it doesnt change the feel of the car, they make 300hp stock on a rev happy motor with the wide power band of a v8. I dont see what is not to love here, it is a great swap in my mind.

Now if you already have an SR, that sounds kind of silly because you can make some nice power on an SR. But that's like comparing(like models here) a 3SGTE to a 1UZ. Both can make about 250hp stock. It will be cheaper to make more power out of the 3S than it would be the 1UZ though because the 3S is a turbo swap away from 500hp, the 1UZ requires a lot more than that. However the longevity of the 1UZ and its broad tq band are what make it desirable in this case.



As for modding a 1UZ, ITB's are a not really a power increasing modification. ITB are good for smoothing out the power band more than anything. Cam's, high compression pistons and a nice tune while advancing the timing on e85 or race gas are all your going to get out of a 1UZ while it is still N/A. I doubt that will ever make a whole lot of power though.

Makes more since to leave it stock or go FI. All or nothing if you will. A N/A setup seems like a good way to waste money IMHO.

[MrChow]

racpar I do understand your point fully. Trust me your not the only saying that to me. The biggest thing is cost again to me. I am not looking for that much power.

Okay maybe 300whp is wishful goal 300 to the crank I'd be happy. If the KA could make power like the F22c and have the lower end TQ I'd keep it. But it doesn't and so far with the SR it's all about the mid to top end.

If I had the choice with the money I would go to something else the point of the 1uz is really the price and how simple it is. I haven't looked it all up yet but maybe getting it has a legal DD is a hopeful thinking down the road.


For all other question about my current motor.
I'm kind of over the SR and all the problems I'm having with it... Long story I don't wanna keep dumping money into it.. What I have to do to make myself happy with my SR I have to rebuild it again, get a different turbo and retune it again for the 3rd time.. =|
It's a lot to me and I want to be able to DD it. Bring it to work and use it has a demo car on Laguna when it needs to be without worry. I want to keep it simple so the more reliable. If I need something faster I can just use the IS-F but that's the not point.

[MrChow]

The 1UZ is a great engine.

To start they are cheap as hell. Almost every junk yard has one and they are not marked up like an LS1. That means pulling a motor/harness/electronics for about 400$. The adapter plates and parts can be obtained for about 1500$. The same parts required to install an LS1 run about +$5K. So 1UZ is way better on the wallet.

Wide TQ band - that's any v8, but an I4T lacks in that department. The early generation with the stronger rods and pistons make 250hp, but the VVTI version with the lighter rotating assembly makes 300. You also dont get IC heat soak/random detonation/boost spikes on a V8.

Can use a stock KA or SR trans. The trans doesnt even have to be moved, that means it is a cheap swap for an s13/s14 and it doesnt change driving position. The 1UZ also weighs about the same as a KA.

Its an oversquare V8, that means it likes high revs, that means cam's can make serious power. If 300hp isn't enough for you, throw on some twins and your looking at 700-1000hp. It has lot of potential.

It is reliable: noninterferance engine. So if you leave the stock cams in it you'll never trash the head. They can also withstand way more power than your typical I4T setup.

So the run down is: its cheaper than almost all swaps, it doesnt change the feel of the car, they make 300hp stock on a rev happy motor with the wide power band of a v8. I dont see what is not to love here, it is a great swap in my mind.

Now if you already have an SR, that sounds kind of silly because you can make some nice power on an SR. But that's like comparing(like models here) a 3SGTE to a 1UZ. Both can make about 250hp stock. It will be cheaper to make more power out of the 3S than it would be the 1UZ though because the 3S is a turbo swap away from 500hp, the 1UZ requires a lot more than that. However the longevity of the 1UZ and its broad tq band are what make it desirable in this case.



As for modding a 1UZ, ITB's are a not really a power increasing modification. ITB are good for smoothing out the power band more than anything. Cam's, high compression pistons and a nice tune while advancing the timing on e85 or race gas are all your going to get out of a 1UZ while it is still N/A. I doubt that will ever make a whole lot of power though.

Makes more since to leave it stock or go FI. All or nothing if you will. A N/A setup seems like a good way to waste money IMHO.
Thank you! The idea of a v8 making really good tq and free reving I like a lot. VQ would also if that for swap but again costs comes into play.

I'm keep it stock for now. Later on I'd want to put some head work in nothing crazy again to me the simpler the less to worry about it.

Again I understand that this motor will not make Power number. When I need a car with power number I will make track with something that will have it.

[racepar1]

racpar I do understand your point fully. Trust me your not the only saying that to me. The biggest thing is cost again to me. I am not looking for that much power.

Is a VH45 swap REALLY more expensive??? I think not, those things are ALL OVER the junkyards. They have more power stock and are actually Nissan engines. FOR 100% SURE it won't cost any more to buy the engine. Being that you're swapping Nissan for Nissan, the wiring should be simple. You can probably figure out a way to do it CARB legally as well. You can use the Z tranny on it (with adapters), which you can also source from the junkyard pretty easily. I just don't see why the 1UZ is any more appealing than that. Personally I wouldn't do either swap, but that's not the point of this discussion.

[MrChow]

True not that much more probably cost wise. I haven't don't that much research on VH. There is a dumb reason that it won't carb for me the VH. Otherwise 1uz only has on it that I can see is that it much more rev happy.

Thank you for your opinions racepar

[XakkGrill]

The appeal is in the fact that a 1uz can bolt to a ka or sr trans without moving anything around.

[Bmxer300zx]

The appeal is in the fact that a 1uz can bolt to a ka or sr trans without moving anything around.

The 1UZ does not "just bolt to a ka trans without moving anything" it's about a 1k for the adapter plate/clutch/fly wheel and other plus needing to machine the bellhousing to accomodate the adapter thickness. Just read shoguner thread if you need the proof.
.
A 1UZ and vh45de are same prices in most junkyards but a vh45 makes more power from the gate.
For the price of the 1uz/ka adapter you can get a z32 trans $250/z32 flywheel $40 used?/exedy oem $200/adater plate xcessive is $450 if ya dont like the spacer just machine the bellhousing down You will be anyways. The only extra will be a driveshaft to fit. The z32 trans will handle abuse 3x longer. Anything else mounts, exhaust and more will be needed even doing a uz swap regardlesss.
.
Plus of a 1uz is the itb department, I see alota guys using the OBX itb's and running exhaust, intake, bigger injectors and ITB's with even a megasquirt ems I don't see why 300whp isn't achievable. ....but at that price a ls1/lsx is better. A 6.0 vortec can be had at junkyards for $600 and make 330whp350tq by looking at it.

[XakkGrill]

Machining a bell housing is easy, take it to a machine shop and pay the 40$. Swapping in a z32 trans is a lot more work compared to leaving the ka trans where it sits. Your also using unreal prices. No one is gonna put used flywheel in a swap or use a cheap clutch. Need to compare apples to apples here. There are nearly complete 1uz swaps on here for 1300$ if you wanna compare used prices. New prices are way different.

We can agree that ls swaps cost way to much in comparison. Like I said, a 1uz is all or nothing. Doing an na build is simply worthless.

Im a toyota fanboy. Always will be. Nissan motors blow up to easy for me. The 1uz is unique. Im not saying there are not better options out there, but it is by no means a bad swap.

[XakkGrill]

Also, I think if you have a s13 with a ka, sohc or dohc, it would be better to do a 1uz swap than a KaT or an sr. Simply because you end up with a hands down better platform and your in the 300hp range for about 2k$.

All of the other v8 swaps are debatable due to how much power you want to make and if you want to go fi or stay na.

[!Zar!]

Have you looked into an LQx swap?

[shoguner]

Vh's have a BIG problem with not draining the oil in the heads cornering.
Vh's are great engines once you get over the oil drain issue.

Yes the 1uz can be more pricey than an sr swap.
But the torque is just outrageous.
I was spinning 255's just my tapping the throttle.

People in australia are making 1k+ hp on these engine for not that much money. Much like a jz but 1/2 the weight.

There are countless people slapping turbos on these and cranking out 600hp on a stock engine. Blow it up? Buy another one for 250 dollars.

If you were to use a KA transmission, I bet you could do the swap for under 2k if you know how to weld and make shizz.

[guitaraholic]

I was looking at the 1UZ as an engine option to put in my SLC, however after doing some research, I found that parts for that engine are crazy expensive. $1,500 - $1,800 for a set of forged rods, Pistons about the same.

The owner of Superlite said the same thing. He started with a 1UZ, he said yes, the engine is cheap, but everything else with it is expensive. He went with it because it was light, and turboed it to about 500-600hp. Though the car only weighs 2300lbs, it was quite quick, but he as since went to an LS3/416 stroker.

[Rustys14]

Honestly for what you are looking to do with the car a ls or lq swap makes the most sense. It has the power and power band you are looking for in stock form, has a solid aftermarket, and is a well pioneered swap in the S Chassis. If you are worried about the cost of a swap kit, CXracing is currently developing a kit that looks promising and should be pretty affordable. Even if you spent the extra cash on a Sikky kit the extra costs of of the initial swap are worth it (in my opinion) considering the reliability and ease/affordability of future upgrades. Just my :2c:.

If you are set on a cheaper V8 I would go VH. I have gone for rides and driven a few VH powered cars and they are a blast. The VH also has the powerband you are looking for but has more power then the 1uz stock for stock. It is also a much more documented swap which should make it easier. What I love about the VH is how smooth it is, all the VH cars that I have driven/rode in have had solid mounts and you would never know. The only downsides are that intake manifold design on the VH doesn't mesh well with S Chassis swaps if you plan on running a stock hood and the plastic timing guides on the early models are prone to breaking. The motor itself is pretty wide too.

I have never driven or rode in a S Chassis with a 1uz so I can't comment the swap itself. I'm not hating on the 1uz, its a great motor. I just think there are better options out there. You'll have plenty of fun with whichever motor you choose though :)

[MrChow]

Have you looked into an LQx swap?
Nope, but a quick search doesn't sound that easy to swap. Power wise looks nice.

I was looking at the 1UZ as an engine option to put in my SLC, however after doing some research, I found that parts for that engine are crazy expensive. $1,500 - $1,800 for a set of forged rods, Pistons about the same.

The owner of Superlite said the same thing. He started with a 1UZ, he said yes, the engine is cheap, but everything else with it is expensive. He went with it because it was light, and turboed it to about 500-600hp. Though the car only weighs 2300lbs, it was quite quick, but he as since went to an LS3/416 stroker.
Yes some of the stuff cost a lot but come on guy, 8 vs 4 rods and piston that's gonna be more plus the balancing etc. But yes you are right some parts cost more.
http://www.xatracing.com/lexus1uz.html

Honestly for what you are looking to do with the car a ls or lq swap makes the most sense. It has the power and power band you are looking for in stock form, has a solid aftermarket, and is a well pioneered swap in the S Chassis. If you are worried about the cost of a swap kit, CXracing is currently developing a kit that looks promising and should be pretty affordable. Even if you spent the extra cash on a Sikky kit the extra costs of of the initial swap are worth it (in my opinion) considering the reliability and ease/affordability of future upgrades. Just my :2c:.

If you are set on a cheaper V8 I would go VH. I have gone for rides and driven a few VH powered cars and they are a blast. The VH also has the powerband you are looking for but has more power then the 1uz stock for stock. It is also a much more documented swap which should make it easier. What I love about the VH is how smooth it is, all the VH cars that I have driven/rode in have had solid mounts and you would never know. The only downsides are that intake manifold design on the VH doesn't mesh well with S Chassis swaps if you plan on running a stock hood and the plastic timing guides on the early models are prone to breaking. The motor itself is pretty wide too.

I have never driven or rode in a S Chassis with a 1uz so I can't comment the swap itself. I'm not hating on the 1uz, its a great motor. I just think there are better options out there. You'll have plenty of fun with whichever motor you choose though :)
I hear ya. Trust me I've looked at my opinions. I want to hear more about 1uz atm from people.

Thanks for the feedback about the solid mounts and keeping this discussion clean.


Thank you for your honestly and not trying to crap on this discuss.

[guitaraholic]

Not a bad price on the 1UZ stuff there Mr. Chow. Definitely cheaper than the stuff I was looking at.

Though I must say, I can get a fully forged rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, and wrist pins fully balanced) for an LS3 for $2,300. So I guess I'm a little spoiled.

A little off topic, but I have a spare VK56VD that I might put in the SLC after I get it running for while with the LS3. It's BIG engine, but that's because it's a DOHC, variable valve timing V8, with the same bore spacing as the LS3 (112mm), yeah, that's pretty big for an import. From what I heard it's only 30lbs heavier than the LS3.

[shoguner]

Bad weekend (discussion about running bearings) : VH45DE / VK45DE / VK56DE Forum (http://forums.nicoclub.com/bad-weekend-discussion-about-running-bearings-t411165.html)

here is a thread about the oil problems on the vh45. Google it and you can find more.
Once you address that issue they're great engines, Just not very well designed.
You can run upwards to 500hp on a stock block never opened, so why is forged piston and rods needed?
Toyota Tundra Rods, Sequoia Rods, 4 Runner rods, 4runner rods, GS400 rods, SC400 rods, Lexus engine code (http://www.lextreme.com/Toyota-Lexus-Rods.html) Rods from $650bucks
Toyota-Lexus costome 1uzfe, 2uzfe & 3uzfe forged pistons, tundra forged pistons (http://www.lextreme.com/pistons.html) pistons from $1000

[Sezio]

Here you go buddy... JUST DO IT!!!!

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/511697-sezios-project-1uz-fe-s14-400sx.html

[MrChow]

Bad weekend (discussion about running bearings) : VH45DE / VK45DE / VK56DE Forum (http://forums.nicoclub.com/bad-weekend-discussion-about-running-bearings-t411165.html)

here is a thread about the oil problems on the vh45. Google it and you can find more.
Once you address that issue they're great engines, Just not very well designed.
You can run upwards to 500hp on a stock block never opened, so why is forged piston and rods needed?
Toyota Tundra Rods, Sequoia Rods, 4 Runner rods, 4runner rods, GS400 rods, SC400 rods, Lexus engine code (http://www.lextreme.com/Toyota-Lexus-Rods.html) Rods from $650bucks
Toyota-Lexus costome 1uzfe, 2uzfe & 3uzfe forged pistons, tundra forged pistons (http://www.lextreme.com/pistons.html) pistons from $1000
Yeah why I didn't look into it much I remember.

I know! Why I like 1uz from the factory the pistons and rods are already forged and balance.
That site has a lot good info in it too. I've been on there a lot.

Here you go buddy... JUST DO IT!!!!

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/511697-sezios-project-1uz-fe-s14-400sx.html

Trust I've looked over your build twice. A lot of good info. Without the rebuild how hard would you say the swap was to do in just getting done and wrench time?
I'm just the money or part out the broken down SR I have. Everything is in the air atm.

[Danial]

racpar I do understand your point fully. Trust me your not the only saying that to me. The biggest thing is cost again to me. I am not looking for that much power.
.

I picked up a running q45t for $800 with 85k on the motor for my vh45 swap. They are cheap to swap as long as you dont buy a complete lemon. you want one 1994+ and not excessively dirty oil really.....

Also something to consider in this since it is a budget swap is all of the other bonuses to the vh and vk motors and the cars they come in. (im going to refer to the Q tho)
-The q45 rear end can be used in your s chassis along with the axles and wheel hubs
-it is nissan so wiring is pretty straightforward and similar among the years
-you can use the entire wiring harness, ecu, and gauge cluster from the q45 in your car
-you dont have to really freshen up the motor much. Im probably just doing mafs and gasket set.
-also, it sounds like a modern supercar engine to me, much more complex and pleasing sound than the sr

parting out a shell you just took a bunch of parts from can often pay for the shell as well

[shoguner]

I picked up a running q45t for $800 with 85k on the motor for my vh45 swap. They are cheap to swap as long as you dont buy a complete lemon. you want one 1994+ and not excessively dirty oil really.....

Also something to consider in this since it is a budget swap is all of the other bonuses to the vh and vk motors and the cars they come in. (im going to refer to the Q tho)
-The q45 rear end can be used in your s chassis along with the axles and wheel hubs
-it is nissan so wiring is pretty straightforward and similar among the years
-you can use the entire wiring harness, ecu, and gauge cluster from the q45 in your car
-you dont have to really freshen up the motor much. Im probably just doing mafs and gasket set.
-also, it sounds like a modern supercar engine to me, much more complex and pleasing sound than the sr

parting out a shell you just took a bunch of parts from can often pay for the shell as well

You can buy ls400/sc400's for 500dollars all the time.

-Q45 diff is just a vsld, which isn't much better than the stock open haha. Plus its a higher gear ratio.
-1uz takes 4 wires to run. you could run it off a battery.
-all i did was change the timing belt and water pump in mine. These engines go for 500k + miles.
-same with the 1uz. I do love the sound of a nice VH though.

[Fries]

The LS series, like everyone else has already said, is the obvious choice here. I'm in the same boat as you though. Money is a major deciding factor and the 1UZ fits my budget very well.

1uz's are super reliable, they can be found in wrecked cars that were clearly not taken care of well with 250k+ everywhere.

The price of the inital swap (no home fabrication) is cheaper than a VH45.

No cutting of the frame rail (or using a smaller wheel which will shorten accessory life) like the vh45

Fit under the hood of a s13/14.

Cheaper than refreshing and swapping a sr20det and will have more power.

STRONG as shit, handles boost very well.

I will say that the VH45 has it's own positives as well. It DOES start out with more power, is a better documented swap and has better access to ECU tuning solutions, but the motor just isn't know to be as bullet proof as the 1uz.

Man I'm getting excited for this swap.

[Sezio]

I bought my engine with harness and ECU for $260.00, Without the rebuild I would say getting the engine in and wired up would only take me about 3 days. It's so easy bro. The only complication is the driver side exhaust manifold.

[DET240SX]

I've skimmed through this thread and I'm sure most of info have been shared related to the 1UZ-FE.

I simply like the idea of Japanese V8 in a Japnese vehicle. Besides, the engine was originally designed by TRD for NASCAR series - not quite sure if they ever made it to actual races but I've rebuilt one and worked close with my engine builder, the internals are impressive (i.e. same six main bolt, stacked boxy pistons, solid crank, etc...). It's got a lot of potentials for sure. Most importantly, I'm Japanese and I liked the idea of kicking LSx guys a$$ with the smaller displacement V8s haha:2f2f:

FYI - I have two 1UZ-FE's tentatively for sale, PM me if you're interested. I'm still considering completing the swap myself. One swap ready with everything except for headers and PS set up. The project is on hold since I have an event coming up here in a few weeks and swapped a SR realll quick haha

[MrChow]

URRZKze21BU&list=PL934549FD1D982DEA&index=17

So guys that said that 1uz sound great well YA!
1uzfe NA 410rwhp @ 9300rpm

[Bmxer300zx]

Go for it man You seem to be pumped on Iit if it's what you wanna do you should. I put the vh45 as an option it really isnt anymore expensive as a 1uz In my book because I wouldn't put a ka24 trans behind it my Rb20 has killed 2 in the past few years and it has way less tq then the uz. Don't believe the hype on the engine being bullet proof either I've seen build threads with guys popping them first season of sliding em. Any motor can pop even a 2jzgte if not tooken care of properly. All in all its a great motor and cheap even at a jdm place they're about $700-900.
My 2 favorite 1uz vids with itb's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d99eJ6ErWL8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cApJbLWFEVQ

[Rafa-Z]

why dont you change the final drive on your diff or go with a z33 trans on your sr? I changed the final drive on my 240sx to a 4.6 and the response is night and day. The engine is lagless and every single gear takes off. Very fun for auto x and drifting. The z33 trans is the same thing but with a bullet proof tranny and 1 more gear but you need to leave the stock final drive. I dont understand why people only focus on engines when looking for a certain response from their vehicle. Gearing is probably more important than engine selection.

[MrChow]

Go for it man You seem to be pumped on Iit if it's what you wanna do you should. I put the vh45 as an option it really isnt anymore expensive as a 1uz In my book because I wouldn't put a ka24 trans behind it my Rb20 has killed 2 in the past few years and it has way less tq then the uz. Don't believe the hype on the engine being bullet proof either I've seen build threads with guys popping them first season of sliding em. Any motor can pop even a 2jzgte if not tooken care of properly. All in all its a great motor and cheap even at a jdm place they're about $700-900.
My 2 favorite 1uz vids with itb's
Juan Henao's S13 + 1UZ + ITB = WIN WWW.KWCWORLD.COM - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d99eJ6ErWL8)
Falken V8 KE71 Corolla - The lloyd Smith Driving Experience - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cApJbLWFEVQ)
I hear ya on the tranny. I don't plan to run with it long or if I find a good deal I'll get a z33 or z34.

I've seen the stories not too worried out it. I have a Toyota Tech tech that wants to really do this swap with me.

why dont you change the final drive on your diff or go with a z33 trans on your sr? I changed the final drive on my 240sx to a 4.6 and the response is night and day. The engine is lagless and every single gear takes off. Very fun for auto x and drifting. The z33 trans is the same thing but with a bullet proof tranny and 1 more gear but you need to leave the stock final drive. I dont understand why people only focus on engines when looking for a certain response from their vehicle. Gearing is probably more important than engine selection.

The cost and all the shit along with it. I jumped into the SR without learning anything about what comes a long with it. I almost regret it. Like I said up there ^^ I want to get swap done then not have to worry about it.
Gearing is important like you said, but I have other reasoning. I'm pretty sure I posted it all already on here if not I'll post it all later but I really didn't want to talk about what I wanted.

[Rafa-Z]

Cost? A 4.6 final drive cost me like 250 bucks and took no effort to install. The 350z trans swap is about 1200 give or take and you use the same sr clutch. The money and effort to swap in any new engine is way more than that. I think a lot of people on this forum just like to swap engines because they want to be different or because a certain swap became popular not because it really benefits their driving. If you have trouble with an sr swapthen you really dont know what you are doing. A sohc ka n/a can do circles around a poorly built sr on a small track ive seen it. Sr20s are not overrated its the missmatched parts and lack of knowledge when installing them that gives them a bad name. In the end you are going to install whatever you want no matter what people say or advice they give you wether it be a 4age or an rb26 its your car but i would stick with what i already have and not dive into a new world of problems.

[1uzcoupe89]

the 1uz-fe is one of the best balanced V8's out there. even with solid mounts i don't get any more noise or vibration than an SR with nismo mounts. Really awesome setup i love mine. it cost me about $2,500 less than going ls1 and yes there is a little power sacrificed but for the money it can't be beat.

[MrChow]

Cost? A 4.6 final drive cost me like 250 bucks and took no effort to install. The 350z trans swap is about 1200 give or take and you use the same sr clutch. The money and effort to swap in any new engine is way more than that. I think a lot of people on this forum just like to swap engines because they want to be different or because a certain swap became popular not because it really benefits their driving. If you have trouble with an sr swapthen you really dont know what you are doing. A sohc ka n/a can do circles around a poorly built sr on a small track ive seen it. Sr20s are not overrated its the missmatched parts and lack of knowledge when installing them that gives them a bad name. In the end you are going to install whatever you want no matter what people say or advice they give you wether it be a 4age or an rb26 its your car but i would stick with what i already have and not dive into a new world of problems.
Your on a rampage I see. So I'll answer all your question. Even though this is going off topic a bit but now it's my opinion overall about this swap.

I have a SR with semi build head stock bottom 2871r tuned to 320whp @16 psi and all the other mods for it. Recently I had to pull motor and found something wrong with the piston and also my clutch went bad. I'd have to get piston and rods to rebuild it the way I would want it
I didn't like the power band which I know I can band with a different turbo about 700 to change out but then I would have to retune it again another 500. That's is on top of the pistons, rods and a clutch. Or I can do the gearing but I would only go to 4.3. The Z33/Z34 trans are really nice I know about it and I want to us it in the end anyway either way I go. Either way I'd spend like lil over 2k which isn't gonna come up soon or later and still not knowing if I'm gonna like it. VS selling this all then getting swap and having more left over to be able deal with any problems.

To your comment about benefits there driving. Well this would benefit me a few ways going a NA power. First off I'm a Racing instructor at Laguna Seca and I do private coaching on the side. When I'm a Laguna I want to be able to use for Hot or Demo laps without scaring the crap out of them about the boost and stuff. Basically with the other cars we use are all NA power so keep the feeling like everything we drive. Also when I'm coaching I liking using my cars has a good has to teach people different things in it so keeping it simple makes life a lot simpler for me.

Like I said I have a lot of friend that have a lot of experience out there. A few of them have done something 1uz. TBH once the 1uz is swap in correctly what problems are there? If I blow the motor I can get another for 500 bucks I'm planning on getting another anyways to do vvi and to build it up a bit. Trans like I said I want to go to z33/z34 trans anyways.
Like I said about this thread it's all about the Opinion about the 1uz.

Not the hardest of the V8 swaps. Vs having to mess with way different motor/trans mounts, modding the trans wall or something.
Good motor if you don't mess with it too much and get the right year, unless your planning to build it up in some way.
And once it in simple. Don't need to nothing to it drive and deal with like the KA.

Again I am not hating on the SR. I love the SR if I would making this a track car and TA car I would keep it SR. SR has way more power and support to build it the way you would want for Track use.