AJZax
05-15-2013, 08:00 PM
Car ran yesterday on E85 tune. Purred nicely, revved all that jazz. Started up every time.
Got up the next day, crank crank crank crank no start. Gas on all spark plugs.
Weird Note: fuel pump had very short prime today, but primed completely normal the day it ran. It got shorter and shorter (today), till it only made a small jerk sound. Then most recently after trying a bunch makes no sound at all. (it is a BRAND new aeromotive 340lph e85 compatible fuel pump, only ran for like 1 mile, and 20 minutes total of idling)
#2 injector would make a single "tick" when priming? (wtf) Unplugged pigtail, no more tick, plug it into #3 then #3 would tick.
-Now we checked battery is at 12.7 volts and starts up other peoples' cars great.
-wirebrushed primary positive and ground for motor/battery
-re-checked coil pack ground with wire brush
-(during trouble shoot even made an extra ground to be sure)
-ECU is receiving voltage
-fuel pump is receiving voltage
-cas has voltage
-maf has voltage
-car has no spark when cranked
-fuel pump doesn't prime, but has constant voltage just no ecu signal I think?
-ecu light is on, so it's getting power... will ecu light work still if it's fried?
-all the main fuses are ok
-couldn't find any wires of ECU that were crossed, and double checked injector pigtails nothing crossed anyhwere that I could find.
We traced it to I THINK the ECU is fried. However, I'm curious WHY it's fried? As it worked the night before just fine.
only things done since it was ran last:
-sat over-night with battery plugged in
-wired a real maf pigtail for z32 maf (used to be soldered to maf for emergency to make it run without a real pigtail)
-uninstalled ignitor and coilpacks, then re-installed
-added another couple gallons of e85 to tank
So voltage to everything, no spark, no priming, means no ecu signal?
(cannot use friends' ecus, as it's 270 cams&oversized valves, 9:1 comp, E85, 1200cc injectors)
WHAT do you guys think!? I just want to see if you guys can come up with anything else it could be before I have another ECU shipped to me. Thanks!
UPDATE:
Okay I got home at liek 10 pm after 11 hour shift, tinkered for a couple hours with advice from couple buddies. Checking with my primitive test light power sources with a pinout sheet from nico club I think it was? Anyway nothing seemed to help.
Finally, after futile attempts at a bunch of other stuff, I disconnected ecu and took it apart to see if it smelled burnt and visually inspect for burns etc. Everything seemed fine. I re-installed ecu and all of a sudden it primes normal and cranks. It didn't start though :/ (only tried once, as my z32 transmission adapter the starter sometimes gets caught where I have to hammer it or some shit idk lol) but made some head room so maybe I can sleep lol.
Next I have to see if I'm getting spark, and if not, why?
(I'm guessing my problem was somehow something grounded shitty? Surmising from that, perhaps my spark is absent for the same reason?)
UPDATE:
Okay so this is weird. I got it to start. Once it warms up it starts misfiring. I tried isolating it to a single cylinder, but when I pull each coil pack individually it changes the misfire. lol I found O2 sensor wire was frayed/disconnected, I just linked it up, and plugged battery back in, and then I'm back at the problem I had when I originally posted this?
I managed to start the car like 10 times, no problem. All I did was attatch passenger sway bar link (careful not to disturb wire harness stuff) and attatch that O2, and disconnect/reconnect the battery.
Would it be okay if I took the 2 ground pins for ecu (the second to the end) and grounded them to chassis by "tapping" those wires from harness to make sure the ECU is grounded? Or is this a no no? I tried unplugging and replugging in the ECU and all that jazz, as that was the thing that finally got the ecu to start.
If diagram for pinout you're looking at ecu then Pin #s 2-4-5-6 had an aqua colored corrosion look on them that rubbed off VERY easily. You could blow on it and iit mostly cleaned it up. What could this mean? I forgot to count how many pins were on each side so it could be that it's 15 through 18 or something which would be sensors. I'll have to double check when I get home.
I'm just super confused because it was running AGAIN yesterday, and then same problem re-occurring when all I did was unplug battery, and connect little O2 wire. I'm so confused lol.
UPDATE:
Yeah I tried cleaning them. The car is in a garage and there's no moisture build up on anything in the garage or in the car. It's thoroughly ventilated. We plugged my ecu into my buddy's car and it did the same short pump prime and double relay click in the kick panel. Plugged his back in and everything works. Maybe something happened to the ecu during shipping?
I already shipped it back for inspection and repair. As I've been checking, adding, wirebrushing grounds, checking connectors and voltages, relays etc for like 4 days. ECU same problem to my buddy's car so I figure problem is on ECU. I'll let the experts figure it out haha.
#6 (ignition signal ground) was blackened, on the top side that you can't really see. I tried cleaning it off thinking that its signal was weakened. I'm not sure exactly. What would cause #6 to get blackened? Maybe a wire crossed somewhere? Which wires would I check for this?
http://imageshack.us/a/img837/7775/photogra.jpg
Injectors or OEM replacement fit. FiveO injectors.
I went through I pretty much all the wiring to check for any crossed wires or anything, everything seems to get 12V and nothing seems to be crossed or at risk of being crossed. :/ Idk. Any ideas on what to check?
Also I have no A/C in the car. Heck my heater system isn't even really hooked up right anymore haha.
Got up the next day, crank crank crank crank no start. Gas on all spark plugs.
Weird Note: fuel pump had very short prime today, but primed completely normal the day it ran. It got shorter and shorter (today), till it only made a small jerk sound. Then most recently after trying a bunch makes no sound at all. (it is a BRAND new aeromotive 340lph e85 compatible fuel pump, only ran for like 1 mile, and 20 minutes total of idling)
#2 injector would make a single "tick" when priming? (wtf) Unplugged pigtail, no more tick, plug it into #3 then #3 would tick.
-Now we checked battery is at 12.7 volts and starts up other peoples' cars great.
-wirebrushed primary positive and ground for motor/battery
-re-checked coil pack ground with wire brush
-(during trouble shoot even made an extra ground to be sure)
-ECU is receiving voltage
-fuel pump is receiving voltage
-cas has voltage
-maf has voltage
-car has no spark when cranked
-fuel pump doesn't prime, but has constant voltage just no ecu signal I think?
-ecu light is on, so it's getting power... will ecu light work still if it's fried?
-all the main fuses are ok
-couldn't find any wires of ECU that were crossed, and double checked injector pigtails nothing crossed anyhwere that I could find.
We traced it to I THINK the ECU is fried. However, I'm curious WHY it's fried? As it worked the night before just fine.
only things done since it was ran last:
-sat over-night with battery plugged in
-wired a real maf pigtail for z32 maf (used to be soldered to maf for emergency to make it run without a real pigtail)
-uninstalled ignitor and coilpacks, then re-installed
-added another couple gallons of e85 to tank
So voltage to everything, no spark, no priming, means no ecu signal?
(cannot use friends' ecus, as it's 270 cams&oversized valves, 9:1 comp, E85, 1200cc injectors)
WHAT do you guys think!? I just want to see if you guys can come up with anything else it could be before I have another ECU shipped to me. Thanks!
UPDATE:
Okay I got home at liek 10 pm after 11 hour shift, tinkered for a couple hours with advice from couple buddies. Checking with my primitive test light power sources with a pinout sheet from nico club I think it was? Anyway nothing seemed to help.
Finally, after futile attempts at a bunch of other stuff, I disconnected ecu and took it apart to see if it smelled burnt and visually inspect for burns etc. Everything seemed fine. I re-installed ecu and all of a sudden it primes normal and cranks. It didn't start though :/ (only tried once, as my z32 transmission adapter the starter sometimes gets caught where I have to hammer it or some shit idk lol) but made some head room so maybe I can sleep lol.
Next I have to see if I'm getting spark, and if not, why?
(I'm guessing my problem was somehow something grounded shitty? Surmising from that, perhaps my spark is absent for the same reason?)
UPDATE:
Okay so this is weird. I got it to start. Once it warms up it starts misfiring. I tried isolating it to a single cylinder, but when I pull each coil pack individually it changes the misfire. lol I found O2 sensor wire was frayed/disconnected, I just linked it up, and plugged battery back in, and then I'm back at the problem I had when I originally posted this?
I managed to start the car like 10 times, no problem. All I did was attatch passenger sway bar link (careful not to disturb wire harness stuff) and attatch that O2, and disconnect/reconnect the battery.
Would it be okay if I took the 2 ground pins for ecu (the second to the end) and grounded them to chassis by "tapping" those wires from harness to make sure the ECU is grounded? Or is this a no no? I tried unplugging and replugging in the ECU and all that jazz, as that was the thing that finally got the ecu to start.
If diagram for pinout you're looking at ecu then Pin #s 2-4-5-6 had an aqua colored corrosion look on them that rubbed off VERY easily. You could blow on it and iit mostly cleaned it up. What could this mean? I forgot to count how many pins were on each side so it could be that it's 15 through 18 or something which would be sensors. I'll have to double check when I get home.
I'm just super confused because it was running AGAIN yesterday, and then same problem re-occurring when all I did was unplug battery, and connect little O2 wire. I'm so confused lol.
UPDATE:
Yeah I tried cleaning them. The car is in a garage and there's no moisture build up on anything in the garage or in the car. It's thoroughly ventilated. We plugged my ecu into my buddy's car and it did the same short pump prime and double relay click in the kick panel. Plugged his back in and everything works. Maybe something happened to the ecu during shipping?
I already shipped it back for inspection and repair. As I've been checking, adding, wirebrushing grounds, checking connectors and voltages, relays etc for like 4 days. ECU same problem to my buddy's car so I figure problem is on ECU. I'll let the experts figure it out haha.
#6 (ignition signal ground) was blackened, on the top side that you can't really see. I tried cleaning it off thinking that its signal was weakened. I'm not sure exactly. What would cause #6 to get blackened? Maybe a wire crossed somewhere? Which wires would I check for this?
http://imageshack.us/a/img837/7775/photogra.jpg
Injectors or OEM replacement fit. FiveO injectors.
I went through I pretty much all the wiring to check for any crossed wires or anything, everything seems to get 12V and nothing seems to be crossed or at risk of being crossed. :/ Idk. Any ideas on what to check?
Also I have no A/C in the car. Heck my heater system isn't even really hooked up right anymore haha.