[HOWTO]: Fix your hatch that won't open using the lever on your own

[SD_Kouki]

Problem: Hatch lever won't open the trunk unless you have a friend with you to open the trunk while you pull the lever. Trunk will lock if you shut the door after you pull the lever up.
Cost to Fix: 20 cents
Time: 30 seconds

So I'm not sure if anyone's done a write up on this yet, so I figured I'd go ahead and do one to help anyone else that has this problem. If it's been done, I'm sorry...if not, hope this helps a few. After reading other threads, I've tried WD-40'ing the crap out of the lock assembly, did not work. I've tried positioning the lock assembly to sit lower by unbolting the two bolts and sliding it as far down as the chassis allows, did not work. In one of the threads, someone mentioned putting two screws in the "black plastic things" to solve the problem. Seeing as how I've tried everything else, I figured I'd give this method a shot. Located the black plastic things on the undersides of the hatch, put two screws, one in each and low and behold....it worked! Now I don't have to use my phone or my seatbelt to hold the lever up while I open the trunk, it pops up on its own.

I'd like to say that this was not my idea, some other genius thought of this in another thread I'm just spreading the word in hopes it will help others that have this issue. If whoevers idea this is reads this, feel free to chime in and take credit, and I'll update the thread with your name in it!! I'd recommend NOT SLAMMING your car door shut after you pull the hatch lever as this is what causes the lever to go back down. Just keep the door cracked, open your hatch and then feel free to close your door.

Here's some pics:
Lock assembly...you can see that I've slid it down to the lowest point -
http://i.imgur.com/6yZI4Fo.jpg?1

Screw in the black plastic things. I used two of the screws that holds the plastic trim piece right behind my center garnish, inside my trunk -
http://i41.tinypic.com/c71xu.jpg

[jamg]

why not just get some fresh hatch struts that will open the trunk when you unlock it?

[SD_Kouki]

why not just get some fresh hatch struts that will open the trunk when you unlock it?
I don't think it's an issue of bad struts, my hatch stays up when it opens. The problem lies in getting the hatch to open initially. I was under the impression that it's a problem with the lock assembly but maybe you're right...maybe it is the struts that need replacing? Whatever the case may be, this fix is cheap and it works. Not sure how much new struts are but I'm sure it's more than 20 cents.

[foreverdeath]

you just need to replace and adjust the rubber hatch bumpers, they also aline your hatch with the body verticaly, while providing tension to pop the latch out of the lock when you turn the key or pull the lever. a good relubing of the lock would be good while your at it jsut lubed my hood latch with fresh grease when i replaced the cable.

[SD_Kouki]

So they're called rubber hatch bumpers...good to know. Well when the screws no longer work, then yes I'll replace those if I can find them. But for now it's fixed and I'm content. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

[jD21]

Putting in a new hatch seal also fixes this problem.

[blackrms13]

a less ghetto method would be buying the new hatch bumper/stopper from Nissan

It's a couple bucks each, and you'll need two

[KoukiMonsta]

Glad I read this, mine does this garbage

[SD_Kouki]

Glad I read this, mine does this garbage
Finally someone that actually appreciates the idea! lol.. Sure, we can just get new bumpers, new seals, or new struts. But for those of us that are on a tight budget and don't mind a quick fix, this works just fine. glad this helped you kouki!

[MamangSorbetero]

Finally someone that actually appreciates the idea! lol.. Sure, we can just get new bumpers, new seals, or new struts. But for those of us that are on a tight budget and don't mind a quick fix, this works just fine. glad this helped you kouki!

Bahaha.

Dude, its not with the lock. The reason the hatch door re-locks itself when you slam the door is because of the rubber stoppers. After all these years, they have degraded and shriveled-up, so the travel and space between the surfaces has increased. So when you slap the driver door the hatch bounces, causing it to fall unto the lock.

The fix would be to buy a longer bump stop or a new one so it prevents the striker from reaching the lock mechanism. They're not even that expensive either, you can just buy some stoppers from your local TrueValue store or hardware store like HomeDepot. They cost $1 each.

Putting a screw there is pointless because you're just scratching up your paint by the way and would sound awful when you close the hatch you're also going to end up a with dents eventually