new clutch install - now, a problem

[CHRI$]

I just bought a S13 that had a new clutch put into it a couple of days ago. The car probably only has 10 miles or so on the new clutch. I drove it this AM with no problem; but after 5-10 minutes and when I was sitting in stop and go traffic - it started grinding when I would try to put it into gear. I forced it into gear a few times (bad i know, but i was in the middle of heavy traffic) and at first it went into 3rd and 4th easily (not 1st or 2nd) but after a few more minutes it wouldn't go in at all.

If I turned off the car, put it in gear, then turned the car on it would drive away perfectly. Any thoughts? Is it just because it's a brand new clutch?

All help is appreciated - and I tried searching already

[andrave]

did you bleed the hydraulic lines? if not do so now.
did you change the slave cylinder? if not there is a good chance its worn out ass finally blew with the strain of the new pressure plate. They are like 9 bucks at autozone, go get one and bolt it on, then bleed the whole system with the help of a friend.

[mykem]

sounds like clutch isn't disengaging properly, start checking the components, check the master cylinder for leaks, check the slave cylinder, hard line, if your clutch fluid is low, one of these may have broken and thats why your clutch isn't disengaging, how is the pedal pressure? notice any difference? if all those check out okay, bleed the system, air can cause it not to disengage fully, also check your adjustment on the back of the clutch pedal where is attaches to the master cyl

if all those things are fine, then you will have to pull the tranny and inspect the clutch install, your clutch fork could have gotten dispositioned, or the throwout bearing may be bad

[CHRI$]

thanks for the responses - i'll double check with the guy who did the install if he bled and i'll inspect it all when i get home from work.

[CHRI$]

i spoke with the guy who installed the clutch and he said they didn't bleed the lines ( why? I have no idea... ). i definitely need to bleed the lines ASAP

some questions - and i appreciate the help - i've read about 30 threads on clutches but want to clarify stuff in my own words

1) how much damage will this possibly do to my clutch - i need to drive 50 miles of all freeway driving before i can work on my car - without shifting should i be ok?

2) where are the bleeding screws (i haven't done much with transmissions so I don't know)? I usually have a FSM for all my cars but i got this car yesterday so i haven't bought one yet

3) i read about the dampener box re-route - and this sounds pretty easy - where can i find the damepener box and is it pretty obvious what I need to do when i get under there? I checked out several descriptions and sites with pictures but since i have no FSM...

4) i can just get clutch fluid (for bleeding) from kragen's or wherever? i read that brake fluid is the same? yes/no?

thanks!

[dct223]

You should change the slave cylinder if your having problems shifting.
Changing the slave cylinder is a breeze to do and u can get one pretty cheap at courtesy parts. All you do is un bolt the slave cylinder off the tranny, unskrew the clutch line... then skrew on the new slave cylinder and bolt it back on. The slave cylinder is passenger side of car, right on the transmission. The bleeder skrew is on the slave cylinder.

To bleed the clutch master cylinder its pretty easy. first suck out all the old fluid from the clutch master cylinder, then fill it with new clutch fluid or some brake fluid (u can get it at any auto parts store, i bought the clutch fluid from pep boys, only needed one small bottle). Next you want to get a friend to help you, have him press down the clutch pedal VERY slowly. While the pedal is still pressed down unskrew the bleader skrew that is on the slave cylinder and some fluid should shoot out. Tighten the bleeder skrew and the clutch pedal should stay down, now you just gotta slowly pull up the pedal and you just repeat until new clear fluid comes out of the bleeder skrew. Make sure your clutch master cylinder is constantly filled! Its better to connect a tube to the little bleeder skrew nipple to check on color of the fluid. There are various ways to bleed the clutch master cylinder, this is the process i used and it worked fine.

As for driving without shifting... i really wouldnt recommend it because when u install a new clutch there is a 500 mile break in period where you have to have smooth engagment, so driving 50 miles for a period of time in only first might put a lot of strain on the clutch and wont be broken in as well... This is my personal opinion.


http://www.courtesyparts.com/S14_clutch.html

thats the site where i bought the slave cylinder


Well thats my 2 cents, i hope it helps


Davis

[CHRI$]

thanks for the information - i wouldn't drive the 50 miles in 1st gear though... i'd get it into 5th and just leave it there for the whole way

[slideways240]

when you remove the clutch damper ,you will remove one of the bleeders.the other is located on the slave cylinder.if you have a handheld vacuum pump you can hook that to the bleeder on the slave and suck all the old junk out.much easier than pedal lifting.and you can do it alone.

[hellion240sx]

searching is the shiet!!!

so you bleed it thru the master and not the slave right?

[cdlong]

no, you bleed it through the slave. the master cylinder should automatically allow air to escape.

you can change the clutch without needing to bleed the system by removing the slave cylinder from the transmission rather than disconnecting the clutch line from the slave cylinder.

[ecuastyle84]

i had the same problem wit my s13...its def got to be ur slave cylinder, i replaced mine and my problem was solved....

p.s. it does suck when ur in traffic....i know, ive done it too lol