Kinugawa Turbo Lines for BB T28 on s13 SR?

[cbh148]

I'm in a bit of a weird situation here -- I've got a ball bearing t28 on my CA18DET that I want to put on my s13 SR20DET because I'm selling the CA and going SR yet don't want to lose this nice turbo.

Being a ball bearing turbo, this t28 has an oil restrictor threaded directly into the top of the turbo. The restrictor is -3AN male on the other side, which is perfect for my DIF oil feed line on the CA18.

I was thinking about buying the Kinugawa line kit for only like $45 shipped (compared to ~$130 for DIF, Circuit Sports, ISIS, Taka, etc), but wasn't sure if Kinugawa lines were worth a damn. I haven't really found any reviews on them, other than one guy using them with his Kinugawa turbo, which is journal bearing.

-- and that's what I'm concerned about. It looks like the Kinugawa lines bolt to the turbo using banjo bolts, whereas other brands and OEM use direct fittings (like a brake line). If I understand correctly, the Kinugawa line kits for BB turbos have a more restricted banjo bolt included, and it lists it as being 0.065in, whereas FRSport is leading me to believe that ball bearing requires 0.032in.

Anybody have any insight? Thanks!

Here's some screenshots from eBay and Kinugawa's website.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/243/kinugawa1.png
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7366/kinugawa2.png
http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/3439/kinugawa3.png
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/1852/kinugawa4.png

[cbh148]

So after a lot of searching, I've deduced that the 11mm banjo bolt for the oil feed line on the turbo (the one that's also the restrictor) is the same thread as 7/16", which is what it's more commonly referred to as.

Also, I've found someone claiming that Garrett says that no oil restrictor is needed for their ballbearing turbos on an SR because the SR oil pump doesn't over-pressurize the center cartridge and push oil past the seals. Not sure if that's valid or not, and not sure exactly what restrictor comes with the Kinugawa kit because their website claims .065" and the eBay page claims 1mm (which equals .039").

I'm not wild about the Kinugawa kit's method of coolant return -- by threading a fitting into the end of the line that adapts it to a barb fitting to slip into the stock rubber hose (as opposed to DIF/CircuitSport/ISIS's method of doing away with the rubber hose altogether and just slipping over the nipple behind the head and clamping down)
-- but to save ~$85? That hose barb setup is fine, assuming there's no consequences to the Kinugawa lines.

Really hoping one of you guys can set this all straight for me.

[jamg]

i would run a restrictor if the turbo doesn't already have one.

i made my own lines. i bought fittings and lines from ebay, and just cut them to length.

much cheaper route. put on some RTV if you want it sealed tight.

[cbh148]

My T28 does already have a .032" restrictor, but it's for a 3AN line like the DIF/CS/ISIS lines (which all have the 90 degree end on them). Don't know if it would work with the Kinugawa line.

[jamg]

if that's the case, just buy fittings and lines. make your own and hook them all up.

[cbh148]

Well if this Kinugawa restrictor designed for ball bearing Garrett turbos is all gravy, then it would solve everything for a good price. Dunno if they're relatively new or what, but I might just be the guinea pig.

[DJPimpFlex]

First get a S14 waterneck to delete all that shit behind the head. You can't service that easily and they LOVE to leak.

Second, run a restictor. Everyone blows turbos when they run the wrong one or don't run one at all.

[cbh148]

So if I get an s14 water neck, do I just weld the nipple shut on the back? Or can most of that coolant hose mess be deleted altogether? This will be my first SR, so this is kinda new territory.

[DJPimpFlex]

You can loop it under the intake manifold and delete all that shit.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/images/P/u-shape-7-300-200-01.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/DJPimpFlex/20121026_215647.jpg

[cbh148]

I'm guessing you just don't have heat? I gotta keep mine. And I figure I want to keep IACV too since it's a nice luxury to have.

Still waiting on any opinions on the Kinugawa turbo lines. Very tempted to order it anyway.

[DJPimpFlex]

race car. sorry I didn't realize you weren't building a track car.

[cbh148]

Really hoping one of you guys can set this all straight for me.
http://www.pbwm.info/hu4i.jpg
^^^wut? pic no workie for me.

And while we're on the subject of those coolant lines behind the head -- I can just cut the metal pipes on the intake manifold side near the back of the head and run my heater hoses from right there can't I? Assuming that I go with the s14 water neck and turbo lines for an s14.

[greenwood]

i would run a restrictor if the turbo doesn't already have one.

i made my own lines. i bought fittings and lines from ebay, and just cut them to length.

much cheaper route. put on some RTV if you want it sealed tight.

yep this just sounds ghetto.

[cbh148]

yeahhhh, i was under the impression that all these AN fittings pretty much sealed themselves. if anything, maybe some liquid teflon or plumber's tape on some of the fitting threads if they just don't seal like they should.

[cbh148]

Ordered the Kinugawa lines for s14 SR20 since I ended up ordering a used s14 SR water neck (to make the turbo coolant return line no longer have to go behind the head).

I'll let you guys know how the lines turn out!

[cbh148]

Welp, the Kinugawa lines came in weeks ago, and I couldn't be happier with them. Install was straightforward, quality seemed very high, and the fitment was on-point.

No leaks, no problems, nothin' -- even after 200 miles on my SR (some of which was heavy drift action). Well worth my $45. Would buy again.

http://imageshack.us/a/img15/3108/kinugawa1.jpg

Here's some shots of the banjo bolt that is a restrictor for the ball bearing oil feed.

http://imageshack.us/a/img841/4344/kinugawa2.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img542/962/kinugawa3.jpg

[OrangeVirus1]

I've used kinugawa stuff before and IMO it's good stuff. works well

[cbh148]

I expected the worst but so far there have been no issues. I even like the banjo fittings better than what the typical Earl's fittings that DIF/Isis/CircuitSports uses. Not to mention paying about 65% less money!

[OrangeVirus1]

I expected the worst but so far there have been no issues. I even like the banjo fittings better than what the typical Earl's fittings that DIF/Isis/CircuitSports uses. Not to mention paying about 65% less money!

they are a legit company and their products are not chinese either. A lot of what they make is either in USA or Taiwan

Even Kinugawa turbo's are really good. Not your typical glued together garbage. ( they are pretty expensive too like 7-1000$ )

[cbh148]

which is what it's more commonly referred to as.
http://www.glpp.info/hu5a.jpg

. . .

. . . wut?

[cbh148]

I recently got a PM from a member asking how my Kinugawa lines were holding up, so I figured I'd update the thread.

They're still perfect. No issues whatsoever. I've had to remove my turbo a couple of times (including swapping from 2871R back to T25) and these lines have been great to work with. I outright prefer Kinugawa and their use of banjo fittings everywhere over DIF/Isis/every other brand which uses typical union fittings that thread directly into the block and turbo.

Reason being, when you remove the Kinugawa line from the block or turbo, you just unfasten the hose from the banjo fittings. So the banjo bolts and fittings stay on the block and turbo, still tightened in place with the nipple pointing where you left it.

-- Not only does this mean less threading/unthreading into the soft aluminum block (so less chances of fucking up and cross-threading or overtorquing), but also it means that when you go to reassemble the lines, most of the hard work is done for you -- no more fumbling around trying to figure out what line went where, because the banjo fittings are already aimed exactly where they need to be, which throws the lines where they need to go.

10/10 would buy again

[lucas240sx]

Are the lines exact length?
Did you have to shorten any of them?

[cbh148]

Are the lines exact length?
Did you have to shorten any of them?

They're the perfect length -- not so tight that it's a bitch to deal with them, and not so loose that there's any real excess line looping around. Both coolant lines are the exact same length on mine (s14 SR setup) so no chance of confusing them. It's a very efficient design and not confusing at all once you actually start installing it.

So no, I didn't have to modify anything in the kit.

Hope this helps