View Full Version : rb25det build help!
jordan240sx
04-18-2013, 12:20 AM
hey guys so i have my s14 with a rb25 series 1 swap and i have about 5grand to play with and my goal is 450 reliable WHP if you guys can give me the best and cheapest way for going about this i would really appreciate it
zerodameaon
04-18-2013, 12:59 AM
Go read some, and choose for yourself what you want to do. There is a wealth of info if you search, because when it all boils down to it this is your car and we are all just going to argue over it.
cbcm2435
04-18-2013, 06:16 AM
save more, 5k isnt enought for forged internals, machining, cams, injectors, engine managment, turbo, larger MAF, tuning, clutch. you could do it cheaper, but it wont be reliable
bova17
04-18-2013, 06:25 AM
^ just what I was going to say, that will get you swapped to a stock rb, but save if you want more power. Have you ever been/driven that fast of a car?
RB25GUY
04-18-2013, 07:36 AM
truthfully i gotta stock s2 with arp head studs cometic HG GT3076r externally gated with atp exhaust housing im sure its .82 ar, jg s 44 mm wastegate, 3 inch down pipe to a BC spec 2, spitfire coils, Z32 maf 550 injectors, koyo dual core radiator, n1 water pump, n1 oil pump,tuned on a APEXI PFC i made 430 whp on 19 psi i got no problems and i daily drive it.....on a pretty conservative tune if u ask me its been running the same tune and setup since 09 with no problems i do change my oil every 1000 miles (just to check any signs of engine wear) and swap out the coolant every 4 months(i like to keep my rb as rustless as possible) or soo hopefully this helps but i do suggest u doing like multiple coolant flushes just to get all the rust outta the passage ways could harm your water pump and in turn eff your day up also if you woul liek to runn a lil cooler i also suggest you take the heater core out re route the coolant lines so it just looping to the rb i had a minor problem with it over heating at times did that and night and day it runs at 75c and when im on it 84c is the magic number it doesn't cross enjoy your rb
EnemyS15
04-18-2013, 09:31 AM
There's a key word that you said that will ultimately make your rb25 a failure.....
CHEAPEST!
You gotta understand that going the cheap route on an engine build is going to make owning that RB25 your biggest regret. Do it right the first time and take your time.
If you just wanna throw in your rb25 without any mods, and just use the 5k to do maintenance stuff, I can see your 5k going far and you can push the rb25 a bit for some extra hp.
Replace gaskets, oil pump, water pump, timing tensioner components and belt, all the other belts, thermostat, fluids, driveshaft, wiring harness, turbo timer (optional), intercooler and piping, mckinney motor mount set so you don't have to source a r33 crossmember, and spark plugs at the least.
If you want to go a *RELIABLE!* 450 hp on 5k lol: All prices are close guestimates and not using godshit or cx knock off crap. (If I am off on a price, don't jump down my throat, it's to make a point.)
Engine management = 1900 for aem or haltech, or a piggy back power fc -1200-1400,
Injectors 550's-750's - 550 minimum
N1 Oil pump - 250
N1 Water pump - 200
Let's not forget about the crank snout issue..... 100 for the crank collar and let's say another 100 to get it put on right. so 200 ish
Master gasket kit - 240
Nismo thermo - 120
timing belt and other belts - 200 ish
timing tensioner components - 150
replace the shitty coil packs with either upgraded ones - around 400 or ls coil pack mod
Motor mount kit - 450 ish
Drive shaft - 3-400
Upgrade the probably worn and old oem clutch - 3-400
Slave cylinder - 130
FPR - 130 and up
Let's say you don't know dick about wiring... so we will go with wiringspecialties - 500
Intercooler kit - 400 + or if you go the route I did and got piping fab'd, you could easily spend 700+ on it.
Need a downpipe as well - 200
Turbo - this can vary, but let's go with precision since it's a popular brand.
entry level 450hp turbo - around 650
boost controller - 400
Turbo timer - 150
Let's not forget about our wide band (optional) - 150+
Radiator - 300+
replace all the fluids -100
Waste gate** you could get one with internal gate, but if you don't... - 250 and you'll need to get the springs for your psi range
and don't forget your taxes...
I am pretty sure I am forgetting other stuff, but you are pretty much @ the min 7k (too lazy to add this all up). That is also leaving out pistons, cams, head components. This is also assuming you do it all and no need for shop hours. Save up and do it right the first time. If anything use that 5k to get your motor in, do all the maintenance stuff, and as you save more money, slowly replace and add.
cbcm2435
04-18-2013, 10:09 AM
^$8120 for all that added up
BossHogg
04-18-2013, 03:58 PM
honestly, I would say buy some sort of engine management and then just push what you got left over and shoot for 300-350. Basic maintenance/replacements. Find a better bolt on turbo that wont require new mani or much modification to make work/fit. It's hard to say what exactly to get. Have you already done some basic maintenance/replace wear items? Did you buy it swapped and the previous owner replace stuff? Do you even know if previous owner replaced anything? In what condition is the motor in currently? Have you done a compression test? We need more info. The best bet would be to research more.
The reason I say buy engine management is because that will knock off the most important(and one of the most expensive) parts of the build. That way in the future, lets say you get more money to play with. You will already have the capability to tune for whatever engine mod you decide to buy. injectors, fmic, intake mani (or whatever). All of those items are relatively cheap and don't require thousands of dollars to get. It's easy to get an extra grand to spend freely as opposed to 2,500 or whatever. Which means you get to actually push the new item to its full potential rather than just seeing the "bolt-on and go" gain you get.
Just my 2 cents.
supersayianjim
04-18-2013, 06:00 PM
you can get a nistune setup for less than $700.00
fliprayzin240sx
04-18-2013, 09:28 PM
550cc injectors, Z32 MAF, Power FC, T3 flanged GT3076, get the stock manifold extruned honed, mated with an external wastegate flange up top then get a new turbo elbow done. This would be the cheapest setup that can get you CLOSE to 450. Stock manifold simply cant give you enough room to clear a GT3582R. Or you can go Hypergear turbo but it'll take a while to get it since its gonna come from Australia.
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