Why won't my ignition timing read correctly?!?

[Superluminal]

So my timing shown via the timing gun is about 35-40* advanced on the crank pulley (or about an 1.5" from the 20* timing mark). It's always shown this so I figured the timing was off and I'd reinstall the CAS thus knowing for certain the timing is set right. Pulled valve cover, set the crank pulley mark to TDC with the sprocket marks showing up top, reinstalled the CAS correctly. Car fires up. I go to check the timing and initially it reads about 10* advanced. I'm excited, thinking I'm close to setting it to 15*. I proceed to turn the CAS just a bit to finalize the timing setting. I look again, and it's back to 35-40* advanced shown via the timing light and stays there no matter where I turn the CAS. WTF is the deal with these engines? Why won't they read timing correctly? Now I have no clue what the timing is, I just know the CAS is installed correctly, so it's in the ballpark. I've heard of people using a spark wire from a distributor car to get a better reading, as I'm using the signal loop on the back. The problem is, I'm getting a reading... it's just inaccurate.

Have any of you experienced this, and if so do you have any tips or tricks to get the timing to read correctly with the gun?

[di-devol]

Are you using the timing loop at the rear of the head?

I hate that damn loop. I now use a spark plug wire to run from the #1 cyl plug to the coil pack and clip the timing light on that.

I've noticed depending what orientation the pickup is on the loop changes the visual of it. I've had 30*advanced one way and flip the pickup the other way and be right on.

[Superluminal]

Are you using the timing loop at the rear of the head?

I hate that damn loop. I now use a spark plug wire to run from the #1 cyl plug to the coil pack and clip the timing light on that.

I've noticed depending what orientation the pickup is on the loop changes the visual of it. I've had 30*advanced one way and flip the pickup the other way and be right on.

Can you be more specific. Are you saying you use something like a KA spark wire, insert that into the head, then insert the "distributor end" into the coilpack, then clip the plug on the wire?

[ultimateirving]

Are you using the timing loop at the rear of the head?

I hate that damn loop. I now use a spark plug wire to run from the #1 cyl plug to the coil pack and clip the timing light on that.

I've noticed depending what orientation the pickup is on the loop changes the visual of it. I've had 30*advanced one way and flip the pickup the other way and be right on.

This is what i was thinking, swap the pickup and see if ur readings differ.

I always used the plug wire method because the loop never worked for me.
Also cody ace explained in a post a while back how to set the idle with CAS without going into timing mode, just reving the engine and watching timing as the revs come down.. I used that method and works like a charm

[di-devol]

Can you be more specific. Are you saying you use something like a KA spark wire, insert that into the head, then insert the "distributor end" into the coilpack, then clip the plug on the wire?

Yup, that's how I do it.

[Superluminal]

This is what i was thinking, swap the pickup and see if ur readings differ.

I always used the plug wire method because the loop never worked for me.
Also cody ace explained in a post a while back how to set the idle with CAS without going into timing mode, just reving the engine and watching timing as the revs come down.. I used that method and works like a charm

Link to that please. Also, what specifically do you do with the spark wire? (see my above comment for details)

[Superluminal]

Yup, that's how I do it.

Do you have to use a specific wire or will any SR20/KA wire do?

[ultimateirving]

I cant find the link right now, but maybe he will chime in.

The plug wire is not important what you use, as long as it transfers the spark from the coilpack to the spark plug.
Honestly, i used a ghetto piece of heater hose rammed down over my spark plug to shield it, and then a fat piece of 2gauge wire that i plug into the bottom of the coilpack.
Then i connect the conductor to the wire portion.

[di-devol]

Do you have to use a specific wire or will any SR20/KA wire do?

As long as it can connect between the plug and the coil pack.

I cant find the link right now, but maybe he will chime in.

The plug wire is not important what you use, as long as it transfers the spark from the coilpack to the spark plug.
Honestly, i used a ghetto piece of heater hose rammed down over my spark plug to shield it, and then a fat piece of 2gauge wire that i plug into the bottom of the coilpack.
Then i connect the conductor to the wire portion.

Yup, I think Cody doesn't unplug the tps either.

[Kingtal0n]

I use the coilpack number one. Peel back the harness loom a little and get your pickup on all 3 coilpack wires from cylinder number one.

Let the engine idle and unplug the tps.

(AS A SIDE NOTE: LOOK at the CAS. You should see some light marks where the factory bolt setting used to be. There is usually a clear sign of where the lockdown bolts were. If your CAS is misadjusted it will often be set too far to the right or left of those original light marks. )



Set the timing light to zero and check the timing. You should know where the 0* mark is, the -5, 0, +5, +10, +15, +20 marks should already be familiar, right?

Well it should be bouncing right around the 15 mark. If its way off, then try reversing your pickup on the coilpack wires. Thats right, turn it completely around, some timing lights are sensitive to the orientation of the pickup on the coilpack.

One way, or the other, you will be in the ballpark. You want a steady stream of 15* solid timing flashing in your face. If its jumping all over the place, make sure the tps is unplugged and rev the engine a few times around 3k rpm. Then try it again. Make sure the idle is steady around 800rpm.

[Superluminal]

I use the coilpack number one. Peel back the harness loom a little and get your pickup on all 3 coilpack wires from cylinder number one.

Let the engine idle and unplug the tps.

(AS A SIDE NOTE: LOOK at the CAS. You should see some light marks where the factory bolt setting used to be. There is usually a clear sign of where the lockdown bolts were. If your CAS is misadjusted it will often be set too far to the right or left of those original light marks. )



Set the timing light to zero and check the timing. You should know where the 0* mark is, the -5, 0, +5, +10, +15, +20 marks should already be familiar, right?

Well it should be bouncing right around the 15 mark. If its way off, then try reversing your pickup on the coilpack wires. Thats right, turn it completely around, some timing lights are sensitive to the orientation of the pickup on the coilpack.

One way, or the other, you will be in the ballpark. You want a steady stream of 15* solid timing flashing in your face. If its jumping all over the place, make sure the tps is unplugged and rev the engine a few times around 3k rpm. Then try it again. Make sure the idle is steady around 800rpm.

Mine was never jumping at all, it was just reading wrong. I will try what you suggested.