SR20 Air/Fuel readings. What do you think.

[kota2240]

Specs:
sr20det redtop
enthalpy ECU 550cc/z32/base
top mount 52lb injectors
fuel pressure idle 38
Vacuum 20hg
I had knock sensor code....Reset it...Ill take codes tonight to see if it cleared.
Motor runs smooth.



Uego readings:

Idle: first start up 14.7.....5min later 10-11
Cruise: 14-15 avg
WOT 3rd usually 13-13.5
WOT 4th usually 12.5-13.0

Im having lean readings WOT and very rich at idle..maybe due to tune (probably not) or O2

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Specs:
sr20det redtop
enthalpy ECU 550cc/z32/base
top mount 52lb injectors
fuel pressure idle 38
Vacuum 20hg
I had knock sensor code....Reset it...Ill take codes tonight to see if it cleared.
Motor runs smooth.



Uego readings:

Idle: first start up 14.7.....5min later 10-11
Cruise: 14-15 avg
WOT 3rd usually 13-13.5
WOT 4th usually 12.5-13.0

Im having lean readings WOT and very rich at idle..maybe due to tune (probably not) or O2

Have you checked for boost leaks? Is your BoV vented to atmosphere? The ECU is not reading o2 once you're in open loop (WOT) so the o2 shouldn't affect the WOT readings. Does the car stutter at all while driving; Could be due to a MAF problem not being set correctly, or it could very well be the tune.

[ultimateirving]

I have a canned tune also man and my idle is pretty rich... 11s most of the time.. But wot is too lean. Most mail order tunes are super rich so it is odd to see you in the high 12's

[kota2240]

Have you checked for boost leaks? Is your BoV vented to atmosphere? The ECU is not reading o2 once you're in open loop (WOT) so the o2 shouldn't affect the WOT readings. Does the car stutter at all while driving; Could be due to a MAF problem not being set correctly, or it could very well be the tune.

Have not checked for boost leaks. Im running 7psi

Yes by BOV is vented for now....will be changing it soon cause i think it leaks and i would rather have it recirc

O2 culprit for a rich idle?

No stutter.

Knock sensor code 32 came back after i reset the ECU.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Try bumping your fuel pressure to 42 with the vacuum line disconnected off it.

[EsChassisLove]

Where's OrangVirus he's the master at this.

/sarcasm.

[Ka-t in progress]

I been real lean as well. Nearly stock set up on 7lbs. I'm in the high 17's cruising to the point where I get (----) on my aem,yet 13.0-13.5 wot. You will be fine,even tho it is lean I know,on 7 lbs. I'm used to my srt4 being 11.7 wot and I was freaking out seeing these 13's on my sr lol. Been a dd for over a year and no issues(still kinda iffy about it tho)

[shift_down]

You shouldn't drive the car when it is that lean at WOY, I can bet you anything you are detonating like a mofo.
Do a boost leak teas first. I had similar problems with a boost leak, and because of a bad bov. Also check to make sure your for is good, just in case.

[kota2240]

i was reading my FPR gauge incorrectly. It was 36. I bumped it to 38.

3rd WOT is 12-12.5
4th WOT is about the same

I still need to check for leaks

[aga]

has the car worked in a different manner in the past? for example, WOT was at 11.5 or its always been running lean and you recently put a wideband on? 38 sounds like a lot of fuel pressure on idle to me... have you cleaned your injectors, changed fuel filter recently? how old is your fuel pump?

[2.5T_/<ouki]

has the car worked in a different manner in the past? for example, WOT was at 11.5 or its always been running lean and you recently put a wideband on? 38 sounds like a lot of fuel pressure on idle to me... have you cleaned your injectors, changed fuel filter recently? how old is your fuel pump?

38 is standard psi for idle.
To me 12.5 is too lean to be getting into WOT. I would try and stay out of WOT until you get some type of tuning / retuning done to it. I would say aim for 11.5 @ WOT.

[kota2240]

i recently installed a wideband and changed the fuel filter two weeks ago. im not sure how old the fuel pump is since i got the car with it.

[aga]

as the guys before said, check for boost leaks (though in my mind, that would make the car run rich, not lean, since the air measured, escapes.) and have your injectors tested and cleaned.

[[email protected]]

Could be coolant temp sensor

[Kingtal0n]

its a rom tune. you are lucky its even that close. Use tools at your disposal to modify the final A/F ratio for wide open throttle (somebody already suggested increasing your fuel pressure). Once you get WOT adjusted to the 11.8's or lower (above 10's below 12's) then try to fix the idle A/F ratio with OTHER tools at your disposal. I hate to say this but you might just want to buy a SAFC-2 and use it specifically to pull fuel at idle.

[shift_down]

its a rom tune. you are lucky its even that close. Use tools at your disposal to modify the final A/F ratio for wide open throttle (somebody already suggested increasing your fuel pressure). Once you get WOT adjusted to the 11.8's or lower (above 10's below 12's) then try to fix the idle A/F ratio with OTHER tools at your disposal. I hate to say this but you might just want to buy a SAFC-2 and use it specifically to pull fuel at idle.


False buddy.
Rom tunes are great, there is another underlying problems.

[Croustibat]

38 is standard psi for idle.
To me 12.5 is too lean to be getting into WOT. I would try and stay out of WOT until you get some type of tuning / retuning done to it. I would say aim for 11.5 @ WOT.

12.5 is 0.85 lambda,that is rich enough for most engines, really. Going richer is not going to help anything. Why people aim for richer than that is beyond my comprehension ... What was necessary 25 years ago is not neccessary now, fuel and oil quality have skyrocketed since.

To people trying to make tunes or those who just want to know how an engine works, i can recommend this book. It has a theoretical approach and at the same times complements it with a real engine analysis.

http://www.amazon.com/Internal-Combustion-Engine-Theory-Practice/dp/0262700166

[aga]

it is true that engines run fine at WOT with 12.5, but there is a significant increase in torque when running a bit richer. i ve seen it on the dyno, and i ve felt it on the street.

[NHTKID]

I was having the same issue when I first got my enthalpy tune.. After several emails it ended up being my base fuel pressure.. Not sure if yours is different but my tune was for 3.5 bars of base fuel pressure (vac line not connected) with vac line it sits around 43.. Problem solved and my car runs like a champ.. It's worth taking a look into man

[NHTKID]

3.5 bars should be 50 psi

[NHTKID]

And my wot went from 12.5-12.8wot to 11.5 steady..

[kota2240]

so you are at 43 connected and 50 disconnected?

I changed mine closer to 40 last night.

My timing was near 12. Made a small adjustment and now its at 15.

Found a leak after the MAF in my intake tube.

WOT now is around 11.8-12.4
Idle is in the 10's (O2?)

Still need to check for more leaks

[mattysr20]

my autometer wideband is giving me crazy readings like this... the car was off and I just turned the key to on and it was still jumping around so I dunno if its reading right or not..


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[NHTKID]

again, not all tunes are the same.. So im unsure to what your enthalpy tune is actually for per say. However i can tell you how i set mine up after having similar problems that you are describing.

After exchanging several emails with martin from enthalpy, i found out 2 very important things, which ended up making my tune and car run perfectly.

1. base fuel pressure (vac disconnected) was now suppose to be set at 50psi on my Fuel pressure regulator.. (vac connected you should read around 43)

2. depending on what turbo you are running your base timing may have changed, or it may not have (IDK, dont hold me responsible for blowing your motor) but according to my tune, i was suppose to set my base timing to 20* instead of the normal 13-15*

This is what fixed my tune, made significantly more power after redoing my base timing and even knocked my afr's down from high 12's to low 11's WOT.

Hope this helps, i know 12.0 is considered safe by most but i always try and shoot for mid 11's WOT so id bump up my fuel pressure another 3psi on the regulator and see if it is the deciding factor.. and yes if your having super rich idle chances are its your 02 sensor..

goodluck man, hope you get it figured out.

[kota2240]

I sent Martin an email

[Croustibat]

again, not all tunes are the same.. So im unsure to what your enthalpy tune is actually for per say. However i can tell you how i set mine up after having similar problems that you are describing.

After exchanging several emails with martin from enthalpy, i found out 2 very important things, which ended up making my tune and car run perfectly.

1. base fuel pressure (vac disconnected) was now suppose to be set at 50psi on my Fuel pressure regulator.. (vac connected you should read around 43)

2. depending on what turbo you are running your base timing may have changed, or it may not have (IDK, dont hold me responsible for blowing your motor) but according to my tune, i was suppose to set my base timing to 20* instead of the normal 13-15*

This is what fixed my tune, made significantly more power after redoing my base timing and even knocked my afr's down from high 12's to low 11's WOT.

Hope this helps, i know 12.0 is considered safe by most but i always try and shoot for mid 11's WOT so id bump up my fuel pressure another 3psi on the regulator and see if it is the deciding factor.. and yes if your having super rich idle chances are its your 02 sensor..

goodluck man, hope you get it figured out.

Seriously ? You bumped your FPR up 0.5bar and added 5° of timing to ... get your tune working ? I would have asked for a refund.

Of course you are doing more power with 5° more timing ... That is the reason E85 folks run more timing, they can get MBT without det. But you really cannot on regular or even high octane fuel . Meaning you are likely to make holes in your pistons and/or destroy ringlands.

As far as the AFR go, the reason you got richer is not because you added fuel, but because you have a slower burn induced by the timing change. And that is just idiotic. As is aiming for 11 AFR without even thinking about why you should or should not do it ... 12 is rich enough, going lower may create knock ...

[NHTKID]

I sent Martin an email

thats the best thing you could've done

[NHTKID]

Seriously ? You bumped your FPR up 0.5bar and added 5° of timing to ... get your tune working ? I would have asked for a refund.

Of course you are doing more power with 5° more timing ... That is the reason E85 folks run more timing, they can get MBT without det. But you really cannot on regular or even high octane fuel . Meaning you are likely to make holes in your pistons and/or destroy ringlands.

As far as the AFR go, the reason you got richer is not because you added fuel, but because you have a slower burn induced by the timing change. And that is just idiotic. As is aiming for 11 AFR without even thinking about why you should or should not do it ... 12 is rich enough, going lower may create knock ...

Woah there big interwebz guy. I was only being helpful no need to come off calling people idiotic. I stated above, "after having exchanged emails with martin from enthalpy". Are you calling him idiotic? I would hope not.
MY tune was based off of 3.5 bars of fuel pressure, and 20* base timing.. ORIGINALLY when i plugged my tuned ecu in, i was still at 13-15* of factory base timing AND only 3 bars of fuel pressure.. hence why mine was running a little lean and lagging power. The timing had little to nothing to do with my afrs getting richer but deff smoothed my tune out and gave the power it should've had from the get go. Keep in mind it is not me you are arguing with but a very reputable tuner, and myself, a person who keeps emails like that documented. Not to mention telling me im wrong when you have no idea what my setup is like is just outrageous and pretty arrogant. That being said, what happened to courtesy and respect? I didnt see you give any "good" advice other than, this is the information i know, and here is a book to read.. Where is the help in that? The best thing you could've done would've been, "hey you need to contact the tuner" but you did not do that, you continued in your arrogant know all ways. No matter how much information you know about a motor, if you dont know what the "tune" is for and who "tuned" it you cant figure it out by guessing, or did you not know that?

OP let us know what Enthalpy emails you back. I hope you get your car running smoothly.

[aga]

excuse me i was wrong talking about fuel pressure a few posts back, i am used to using bar , not psi, so i did a wrong conversion in my head. anyway, doing what the tuner said to make the tune work is perfectly logical, these things are a reference based on what the ecu is tuned for. if you change fuel pressure and ignition, of course its gonna run wrong. anyway, tuning for 11's EFR is the best for 90s jap cars , i've tuned a lot of cars and the power is right there. ignition timing does not alter the burn rate. however, richer or leaner AFR's, do. 11.7 AFR has the faster flame front (burn rate as you say it) and produces the best acceleration power. going richer from 12 will only reduce knock, not increase it.

[Croustibat]

anyway, tuning for 11's EFR is the best for 90s jap cars , i've tuned a lot of cars and the power is right there.

ignition timing does not alter the burn rate. however, richer or leaner AFR's, do. 11.7 AFR has the faster flame front (burn rate as you say it) and produces the best acceleration power. going richer from 12 will only reduce knock, not increase it.


I tune for around 12. Power is supposed to be maximum around 12/12.5, not 11, nor 10.

The main problem here is tuners misunderstand what is the effect of running rich. Most believe adding fuel cools the charge, thus preventing knock. And that is wrong, simple maths shows it... it does cool a bit, yes, but not much, we are talking about a couple of degrees.
The reason is that mixtures richer than 12 burn slower, resulting in the same effect as retarding the timing. That is the only reason knock goes down when running richer than 12. Rich knock starts to happen around 11. It gets way worse around 10.

Basically, running 12, you would have the same power, or even maybe more, with less timing and using less fuel than running 11.

Many tuners only swear by timing (the same way customers swear by peak HP), so they dont really investigate that. Some just go with the "common knowledge" which is somewhat deprecated.

But really, you get the same results with a 12 AFR. And that also brings less bore wash and less fuel consumption.

[aga]

as i said before, i tune for 11.7-11.8...not 11:1, so yeah we are close, to 12:1... not a big difference. even the gauges are off by 0.1 by the factory. but on the other side of the spectrum, i would prefer a customer car running 11.5:1 than 12.5:1 ... that's just my butt dyno talking (and dont you make any talking-out-of-your-ass jokes :P )

modern engines like the group VAG 20valve etc work better when leaner around 12.5 , they are better designed, they use high pressure injectors etc... a better all around burn. our old junks run better like this , i believe.

[Croustibat]

Sorry i misread, i thought you were around 11 AFR. Yes, 11.7/12 is pretty similar. Using modern injectors and fuels (EV14 and e85 are such wonders) on our old engines make miracles though :p

But i do understand why a pro would go a bit on the rich side . i do tune for 12, but i have ways to monitor and adjust. On a fire & forget tune, you never know ... injectors, pump or even FPR going on the weak side, clogged filter, and it ends up losing 1 or 2 AFR points @ WOT. With a rich tune it can still be ok, but if you are spot on, you are in for some nasty reputation (aka "the tune i got broke my engine, that tuner is shit", even when you explain it is not your fault... customer is always right )

[aga]

well thankfully i ve never busted an engine, neither mine nor customer's...only two guys broke, one was a builder's mistake, and the other was running at top speed on the highway in the summer for a large amount of time...and still, it didn't explode, it just started consuming a bit of oil and had it rebuilt, so i guess its more of a mechanical wear thing...

[kota2240]

Im waiting on an email back about my fuel pressure readings.

Im just running 7psi for now on my T25
air fuels avg 12.5. spiking to 13 near redline.
I found a crack in my exhaust manifold.

I purchased everything i need for the GT2871r. Before i do the install i wanna make sure everything is in great shape. I will be asking for another retune for 740cc.

[kota2240]

so i got the email from martin to bump up my fpr to 45. still havnt done it.

today i noticed my readings at idle are now at 17 instead of 10-11 i was getting last week.

wot is now at 14's....what the hell....My car decided to lean out all over the board

fuel pressure is holding at 40psi....

[aga]

maybe your fuel pump is dying and increasing the pressure is digging the knife deeper...

[kota2240]

wouldn't my fuel pressure drop if that occurred?

[aga]

if you keep increasing pressure through the fpr, and the pump is dying, then the flow will drop. how long have you had that pump? what brand is it?

[kota2240]

if you keep increasing pressure through the fpr, and the pump is dying, then the flow will drop. how long have you had that pump? what brand is it?

denso supra pump 3 years

[aga]

well, you never know... can you borrow a friend's ?

[kota2240]

dang false alarm on that. I had a code of 12 for the maf. I forget yesterday i ran the car forever without the maf cause i needed space to fit the refrigerant bottle and forgot to reset the ecu. Code free for now. Ill bump up the fuel pressure later tonight and take it for a spin.

[kota2240]

I will hardwire the fuel pump with its own relay and power source.

[kota2240]

No Codes
Vacuum 22hg
44fuel pressure at idle, hose connected
13-14 WOT. leaner at higher RPM's

[kota2240]

well, you never know... can you borrow a friend's ?

This is my next step. He wants me to check my pump and rewire it when i get a chance

[aga]

it could even be a fuel leak, beneath the car. that would explain getting worse with time too.

[drumer_boy456]

As far as you running leaner at higher RPM's check for exhaust leaks.. youre wideband might still be reading lean when youre really not.. or you are loosing air maybe at your exhaust manifold gasket or mani to turbo gasket. goodluck brotha..

[JN1AS4]

Set your fuel pressure to 50psi with the vacuum hose disconnected. Which should be around the mid 40's psi with vacuum hose connected. Set ignition timing back to STOCK. Recirculate BOV, Then run a boost leak test. Fix ALL boost leaks. Clean your maf(maf cleaner). Replace your o2 sensor. Then fix any/all exhaust leak that you may have. And your car should run 10x better all the way around after that.

[kota2240]

the only thing that I had a chance to do was replace the fuel pump with a brand new one.

Still running mid 13's WOT
I cleaned the MAF
I replaced the downpipe gaskets and catalytic convertor gaskets.
Running 15deg timing

Im going to have to get a new setup for the BOV since mine is near the bottom of the intercooler.

[aga]

how about going to a dealership and having them plug it in the diagnostic machine?

[kota2240]

how about going to a dealership and having them plug it in the diagnostic machine?

Is that the same as me reading my codes from my ECU?

Im going to be upgrading the turbo/manifold/elbow this weekend. Im keeping it at 7psi, however i noticed i might be missing a gasket at the turbo outlet/elbow. I can see my friends gasket but not mine. It could be a much thinner gasket but i doubt it. I don't hear an exhaust leak. I also have a 1.5" hairline crack in the manifold.

the motor is fine at cold/warm start ups. no bucking/hesitation. no idle issues. boost pulls fine at 7psi


Next update after upgrades.

[kota2240]

im running worse now.

idle afr is around 17's to "----"
WOT is in the 15's

I replaced every exhaust/turbo gasket. new manifold. no boost leaks......

Im going to play around the TPS some more and check my MAF readings

[aga]

did you talk to your tuner about this?

[kota2240]

I just sent Martin (Enthalpy) another email

[aga]

i would suggest not driving it around , especially boosting, until you get this sorted. idle AFR's are no worry, but under load, it can be damaged.

[kota2240]

No driving. I started looking into my grounds and found that they were poor and limited. I added a few more, cleaned up the connections. That took my readings at idle from 17's to 14's... I also noticed my fuel pump voltage is at 12.5. I haven't been able to rewire it yet..

[OrangeVirus1]

If you know how to tune, 12-12.5 is fine for WOT / full boost. 12.6 max, don't go above it.

if you want to be safe though because you don't want to dial your timing in all the way to 0.25 of a degree, just keep it below 11.8.

you're not going to damage anything driving lean. Driving in the high 16's in cruise won't do much other than elevate temps a bit I have driven With my AFR at 16.8-17 for an entire day before in my mazda, zero problems, still accelerated fine.

For some reason everyone thinks that a tiny bit of detonation and you're engine is toast. This is just not the case. 5-7 counts of Deto can be acceptable IMO as long as your tune pulls timing accordingly to until the knock is dismissed, Above 30 counts is when shit starts getting serious, Being able to hear it audibly is probably off the charts. The chances of one single knock count blowing your engine is like the chances of you winning the lottery..

[aga]

nice! keep working on it!

[ultimateirving]

Hey man, if ur chasing lean issues. My buddy was just battling this with his sr powered s14. He tried everything, replacing mafs, CAS, checking timing multiple times, Switching to a new fuel pump.
It ended up being the Line in the gas tank between the fuel pump and hard line had started to rot and was leaking internally. Check to see if that line is in perfect shape and holding pressure.

[kota2240]

never thought that my air filter could cause me so many headaches along with no fan shroud on my clutch fan. this was a temporary setup as i was installing my electric fans.

air filter on at idle : 17-18 air fuel ration WOT 12.5-14
Filter removed from maf : 10-11 at idle. WOT 10-11's

time to get another filter. I had a crappy filter from advance auto for like a year

THANKS TO MARTIN AT ENTHALPY

[aga]

Wow never expected that! Well, chasing the problem made u fix others too heh heh.

[OrangeVirus1]

never thought that my air filter could cause me so many headaches along with no fan shroud on my clutch fan. this was a temporary setup as i was installing my electric fans.

air filter on at idle : 17-18 air fuel ration WOT 12.5-14
Filter removed from maf : 10-11 at idle. WOT 10-11's

time to get another filter. I had a crappy filter from advance auto for like a year

THANKS TO MARTIN AT ENTHALPY

So your filter was choking airflow it seems, or giving false readings to the maf. Air filters don't last forever l o l

[AdamR]

I have a canned tune also man and my idle is pretty rich... 11s most of the time.. But wot is too lean. Most mail order tunes are super rich so it is odd to see you in the high 12's

I would send it back if it idled at 11 AFR. That is just silly.

[aga]

yeah ,time to go standalone. it justifies the money saved off gasoline alone :D

[kota2240]

I dont care how rich i am now hahah. So happy to see my readings below 12. I was getting scared seeing my plugs white as copier paper.

Now I can start making the correct fuel adjustments. First I need a good air filter. Second take the mechanical fan off to prevent air blowing towards my MAF since i dont have a shroud


I guess at idle my readings were dead on sometimes and other times it was at "----" I think air just found its way through the filter and other times struggled getting through.

Car runs perfect :)

[kota2240]

Yeah I celebrated too early. First thing I tried my friends K&N filter and noticed avg 14.5 idle. So I went out to pepboys and got a filter temporarily until the aPexi comes in.

With filter. Idle 14.5-15.5 / WOT 13.5 avg / driving 16's

Without filter. Idle 10 / WOT 10.5 / driving 13-14

[aga]

i didnt expect a filter to make such a difference. i have an apexi , too, cause it bolts on the maf...i guess you gotta choose a filter first and then tune on that.

[kota2240]

Well Martin told me that my MAF could be taking a crap. I looked at it closer and it has no labels on it. some off brand. I need to get a N62 for it

[kota2240]

swapped it out with a friends (he purchased it used and never tried it) it stuttered on start up but stabilized in a few seconds.

N62 MAF 16-17idle 13-14WOT WITHOUT FILTER
NON N62 MAF 10idle 10WOT WITHOUT FILTER / WITH FILTER 14-15idle 13-14 WOT

CODES 55

[aga]

hmm either way its shitty. i suggest you get a decent maf, a decent filter and either get a specific tune for your car, or get a standalone...and a specific tune.

[kota2240]

Looks like Enthalpy wants my ECU...Will update sometime in JUNE

[kota2240]

This is the email that i got back

Patrick

ECU, tune and MAF all tested good on the dyno on another car. I am going to adjust this tune for you to richen everything up to the proper levels. If after this you are still seeing lean creep into higher rpms / in boost you will probably need to replace your FPR as this will indicate that you have a fuel pressure loss issue somewhere.

I am going to leave the original tune on a pair of roms that I will send back to you. If the FPR needs changing after teting the new tune, you will most likely be in need of the leaner tune again. This way you will have it if you need it

[mattysr20]

ok my question is does ur wideband stay at these readings? cause when I'm driving in any gear my readings jump all over from 10-15 and all in between I seem to never have a steady readind unless its cool outside then my readings usually read 14-15 but when its hot it jumps all over but never goes over 15. is this what urs is doing ?


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[AJZax]

Oops finally read the rest of the thread,... my bad! lol
nonedited:
Boost leak would make you lean on idle and rich on boost....
Check anyway
Were the injectors brand new?

Knock sensor code? Look up FSM and check the ohms on the knock sensor and see if it's still good.
Should not be lean.
Enthalpy Rom-Tunes are generally SPOT on. 11.5s across board on boost.

Check your FPR vacuum source and system for boost leaks, also check your fuel pressure itself.

[mattysr20]

if ur talking to me I have a Jim wolf tune I checked my fuel pressure today it was 50 with vac line off and like 41 with it connected I don't know how to check for codes my ecu does not have a light or screw I have s15 Sr


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[kota2240]

another reply back from him after looking at my ecu.

Set timing to 20
Set fuel to 43 psi with vac line disconnected for setting

[kota2240]

they said tune works great...I have a fuel problem so i need to check my FPR/injectors/ and double check to see if the right resistors were installed. still running 13's wot

[kota2240]

I swapped everything over to OEM FPR and OEM fuel rail with STI injectors. Still running 13's WOT

I'm running out of options. Maybe im loosing fuel pressure somewhere in my gas tank?

The car drives and idles perfect. just can seem to get it right going WOT.

[nickauger]

Maybe your tune is for 550cc and your sti injector are actually 520cc and some are flow tested to be arround 500cc

[kota2240]

i had the same issue with my rx7 top mount which are 550cc. enthalpy made my tune richer to atleast be in the 10-11 range. i still have my other tune

[kota2240]

im going to try and take another stab at this...like i said before everything on the car runs great with no codes...just cant get my AFR to go below 13's at WOT

I installed a new bosch wideband sensor. same results 13's

I checked my Z32 MAF reading at idle is 1.2V, then it gest linear to 3V towards redline? Should it be closer to 5V?

[Kingtal0n]

im going to try and take another stab at this...like i said before everything on the car runs great with no codes...just cant get my AFR to go below 13's at WOT

I installed a new bosch wideband sensor. same results 13's

I checked my Z32 MAF reading at idle is 1.2V, then it gest linear to 3V towards redline? Should it be closer to 5V?

around 5V that maf is reading about 400-470 horsepower, depending if we are talking rwhp or bhp or what.

[kota2240]

this was at idle

[steve shadows]

Where is the sensor located? How far aft of the dump pipe to down pipe flange?

It should be 2-3 feet down from this point.

[kota2240]

the wideband is 6in before the highflow cat.

[kota2240]

more ideas needed :)

[nickauger]

Get a innovate wideband.. AEM are crapp

[kota2240]

i doubt both my sensors are bad especially since i just purchased a new one. I am running lean cause my spark plugs are white, sooooo a new sensor will not help

[kota2240]

tttttttttttttt