View Full Version : SR20 lots off probs
T0fuman
04-09-2013, 11:55 AM
So Ive bought a SR20 swapped car that has been done for 3 years. Drove it 5hrs home and now it sits in my driveway till I can get all my kinks worked out. Ive been a V8 guy for some time now but wanted something different, know my way around a engine but never had a turbo before so this is all new to me.
The motor idles high and runs like crap... but thats just probably because it needs a tune so thats no big deal yet.
The real problem is the damn thing wont start most of the time. New battery good grounds and contacts. Hook up a battery charger, fires up after some sputtering. Let it run for 15min then shut it off. Turn the key sputters then starts again. But if you let if sit for longer then 2min it wont turn over and drains the battery. The guy I bought it from put a new alternator but Idk if its the right one cause I would like to say its not charging the battery while running. Or the starter isnt working 100% of the time, but then why would it fire up if the battery is at full power only?
Thanks, Im gonna have alot more soon but one battle at a time.
cbcm2435
04-09-2013, 12:00 PM
the battery probably isnt holding amperage, load test it to see if it is good
T0fuman
04-09-2013, 12:22 PM
Like I said the batter is new off the shelf, 650. Update, charged the battery again and went to start it all it did was turn over and no sputtering or life. FML.
Felipe
04-09-2013, 12:47 PM
sounds like alt.
T0fuman
04-09-2013, 12:54 PM
motor is stock. Alt looks new and the dude said he replaced it.
then why would you think you need a tune...?
a tune up maybe.
also check plugs, check spark and check fuel .
cotbu
04-09-2013, 01:19 PM
The car should start with a bad alternator, if the battery is fully charged.
Now the new alternator install could be the problem and that's where i would start. BUT sometimes you need to be at a certain RPM, 2500 i think before the alternator starts it's charging with certain alternators.
my stock alternator does charge at idle, at least it jump the voltage to 14v the by operating temp settles to 13.8
Other than that check for a parasitic drain, next time you get it started let it idle and check the battery voltage. Number are important here.
Don't let some throw you into a tangent with no solution at hand, stay focused an fix your problem!
T0fuman
04-09-2013, 02:38 PM
best way to check for drain? hook a multimeter up to the battery terminals or what?
cotbu
04-09-2013, 04:01 PM
1
Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
2
Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. the meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.
3
Attach a multimeter(set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeters instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".
4
If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
5
Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.
6
Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
7
Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
8
Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.
9
You can also try unhooking the big wire from your alternator. The alternator can sometimes have a shorted diode that can cause amps to flow through the alternator's power cable and through the shorted diode and into the case and through the bolts and back to the negative battery terminal. This will drain a battery in a hurry.Make sure to read the ammeter before and after unplugging your Alternator.
tips
A parasitic drain is when an electrical device is using battery power when the car is closed, and the ignition key removed. Therefore, when doing this test make sure that the dome light, under hood light, trunk light, etc. are off.
high idle could be TPS and or IACV. and check your alt amperage etc
T0fuman
04-10-2013, 09:33 AM
Well got the battery tested under load its fine and has %100 charge. So my dumb charger just sent me in circles. Still lost as to why it starts sometimes and and why it just turns over others.
wangan_cruiser
04-10-2013, 10:22 AM
Check your ignition switch
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