Bad S15 Dual BB Turbo?!?!?!

[1slowsilvia]

I have a S14 SR20 running a S15 spec r dual bb turbo. I have been having white smoke come out the exhaust and plumes of smoke come out my exhuast that smell like burned oil.

I pulled the IC piping off and examined the turbo the turbine has a very very small wiggle to it ( litterally 1/6 cm wiggle) seems like thats ok I would guess since its very very small. the intercooler piping has zero sign of oil in looks as fresh as when I put the piping on.

I was running the my greddy type s bov closed for about 3 weeks since it leaks bad. I was having compressor surge but I figured it would be ok for a little bit until I got a new bov. now it dumps smoke out exhaust.

Is this tale tell sign of a blown turbo? also when driving from the get go I noticed I never could hit full boost until 4k RPM. I could brake boost at 3500 rpm and would only hit 4 psi then at 4k rpm on the button it would go to 8 psi. idk why it did this and makes car feels sluggish as fucking shit. my T25 on my S13 SR would be full boost @ 12 psi at 2700 RPM brake boosting no problem.

any ideas on wtf is going on? is it the turbo? turbo lines? or am I fucked and need a new turbo? also could running compressor surge for 3 weeks have blown it? I didn't beat the fuck out of it either this car has NEVER seen a boost controller. Swap done by me and using a WSP engine harness.

please post some thoughts

Thank you,

Jake

[OgSilviaSkywalker]

white smoke is a sign of a bad turbo. sounds like a bad turbo but i cant be sure. does it puff smoke at start up?

[1slowsilvia]

white smoke is a sign of a bad turbo. sounds like a bad turbo but i cant be sure. does it puff smoke at start up?

it doesn't puff but I can see faint white smoke if i stare hard at exhaust at idle... also my idle likes to dig down to 400 rpm then back up to 800 idle for a sec fine the motor misses and rpms drop stutterers and goes back up to 800 rpm....

if i rev motor at like 2k - 3k rpm blipping i can see white smoke coming out exhaust in puffs.

[Sileighty_85]

White Smoke- Coolant
Blue Smoke- Oil
Black Smoke- Fuel

[ch1873857]

If you are not experiencing devastating amounts of shaftplay (i blew one that sounded like rocks were tumbling inside.) you would be looking at oil seals. Ive had turbos come in with zero abnormal shaft play, but would dump oil into the intercooler.

So if you pull off your hotpipe and theres oil side its a blown turbo. if you pull off your intake and theres oil in the inlet too, then its blow by.

Its virtually impossible to leak coolant through your turbo.

Those BB turbos need an oil restrictor. Some info can be found on atpturbo i believe. I didnt run one once. lasted 2 weeks.

Ive run compressor surge on stock rb25 turbos for months with no issue with shaftplay. As a matter of fact I run a gt30 on my race car and no blow off valve at 10psi. Compressor surge for an entire drift season (7 events) yeilded zero damage. starting to think its a myth. (under x psi).

hope it helps. good luck

[Kingtal0n]

its not a myth. "often you cannot see the "damage" because it tends to bend/weaken/fatigue the edges of the compressor wheel. Eventually they get brittle and break off in microscopic increments that cannot be seen with the human naked eye (at first)". Once you do this for a while, it gets bad enough to see of course. Also a strong surge can "slam the compressor wheel into the housing and bend the shaft" I am told.

For more information why dont we call in a turbocharger expert? I am not expert, only parroting / passing on the info.

To the op: White smoke, as somebody said, is coolant related. It could be leaking into the exhaust and burning- possibly from the head gasket. why dont you do a compression test, and a leak down test.

Furthermore, an S15 turbo should be spooling around 2500rpm right? So something is certainly wrong there. It could be bad, or you have a major exhaust leak (should be obvious and noisy), or the wastegate is stuck open.

[younghatchowner]

Ok so I ran a compression test (***This is 1slowsilvia on friends laptop***) cyl # 1 = 130psi, cyl #2 = 127 psi, cyl #3 = 128 psi, cyl # 4 = 130 psi. pretty fucking low if you ask me. friend of mine said I burnt the rings up from detonation and the oil blow by isnt the turbo but the rings being bad.

Anyone agree to this? the smoking is REALLY annoying and it only smokes when I go hard under boost.

I should not have smoke coming out of my sexy ass car.... makes me wanna puke.

[OrangeVirus1]

Check for boost leaks!?

Also White smoke can also be FUEL. if you are running really really rich btw. ( I mean retarded rich like AFR 1:1 ) I accidently set my tune on a different car and the injectors were 100% DC at idle.. white smoke like crazy.

I dunno man.. All 4 rings going out at the same time? the compression is a little low but it's consistent. did you do it correctly? hot engine + WOT


Ok if it smokes under hard boost.. I mean that is an easy sign of dead turbo. because if it was your engine you'd be smoking all the time.. on every shift.. everything.

[mershonn]

That's depends what you like.
http://fblm.info/17.jpghttp://fblm.info/18.jpghttp://fblm.info/19.jpghttp://fblm.info/20.jpg

[younghatchowner]

Car was warm temp not hot... it was done an hour after the car had been sitting. I pulled all four plugs and did WOT and constant cranking for a good 5 - 6 seconds on each cyl. I am pretty sure thats the way to do it. unless It should have been at running temp when testing. just didn't want to get burnt by shit lol.

[OrangeVirus1]

nah That should be a good enough test.

I'd say that since the Compression results are consistent and are not that low.. you probly don't have blown rings. Blown rings are usually like less than 90 psi in a clyinder.. sometimes all the way down to 30..

but since you have relatively 130 across.. The engine doesn't sound that bad. your rings are probably just worn and the Cylinder wall cross hatching is probably gone but I wouldn't say blown rings.

[The Dude]

Car was warm temp not hot... it was done an hour after the car had been sitting. I pulled all four plugs and did WOT and constant cranking for a good 5 - 6 seconds on each cyl. I am pretty sure thats the way to do it. unless It should have been at running temp when testing. just didn't want to get burnt by shit lol.

Perform the compression test at operating temp or you won't get accurate results. Probably why you got low numbers...