S14 Sr20det runs like shit, ecu talk readings please help

[QuickSpoolSR]

I picked up an s14 sr20det from some kid, and i dont exactly know what he had going on lol. Its an s14 sr20det with a stock ecu/injectors, it runs kinda shitty, low power, stumbles and sometimes stalls out. I Got the consult port hooked up and ecutalk working, below are the readings of my car warmed up at idle. I wouldnt say im a noob but I could use advice on where to start. I see the timing is at 37btdc doesnt that mean its super advanced?

Like i said... sorry for being such a noob.

http://i654.photobucket.com/albums/uu268/johnw14151/image_zps30cdca4b.jpg

[QuickSpoolSR]

also to add, it smells like fuel sometimes (maybe running rich) the kid said he had the head rebuilt, maybe the cams are put in wrong...

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Were you not there to look over the car before you bought it lol? Did you not inspect it thoroughly? Seems like you weren't LOL!

Have you done a compression test? Have you checked to see if any fuel is leaking from the fuel lines? Have you checked to see if Injectors are leaking? Have you checked for a boost leak?

Whoa?! Looking at the water temp, it seems as tho the car is warmed up to operating temperatures. If it's not, try retaking a screen shot of when it is warmed up.

Anyways, your TPS voltage looks extremely wrong (if it's in fact idling), should read .45v not .84 (It should read .45v @ idle and 4.5v @ WOT). Your RPM's are extremely high, i would look over at your IACV and make sure it's adjust properly. Also, your timing should be 15* at idle not 37* (It could be 37* because your base idle and tps are not set properly.) I would look at the FSM for sr20 and set the base idle, tps, and timing accordingly.

[ultimateirving]

also to add, it smells like fuel sometimes (maybe running rich) the kid said he had the head rebuilt, maybe the cams are put in wrong...

If thats really your timing, it is very off.
start by checking timing.

[ultimateirving]

Were you not there to look over the car before you bought it lol? Did you not inspect it thoroughly? Seems like you weren't LOL!

Have you done a compression test? Have you checked to see if any fuel is leaking from the fuel lines? Have you checked to see if Injectors are leaking? Have you checked for a boost leak?

Whoa?! Looking at the water temp, it seems as tho the car is warmed up to operating temperatures. If it's not, try retaking a screen shot of when it is warmed up.

Anyways, your TPS voltage looks extremely wrong (if it's in fact idling), should read .45v not .84 (It should read .45v @ idle and 4.5v @ WOT). Your RPM's are extremely high, i would look over at your IACV and make sure it's adjust properly. Also, your timing should be 15* at idle not 37* (It could be 37* because your base idle and tps are not set properly.) I would look at the FSM for sr20 and set the base idle, tps, and timing accordingly.

He replied faster.. haha those are the things i was looking at too

[QuickSpoolSR]

Lol no boost leaks I checked that haha

[QuickSpoolSR]

So first check the iacv and lower it back the set the tps?

[2.5T_/<ouki]

So first check the iacv and lower it back the set the tps?

I would set the TPS first. Read the FSM on setting the timing. You'll need a timing light also to do this. When you set the timing it has a step to also set the IACV.

[QuickSpoolSR]

Thx for the input guys... I still have faith in zilvia haha

[steve shadows]

At 1500 RPMs on a stock Nissan ECU?

The factory JDM ECUs have some pretty aggressive advance as you move up out of the idle range....remember this...this is why when I remap PFC's for people their cars run so much smoother because everyone is running 91 octane at best over here.

Grab a timing light while you're at it and while you're doing the TPS just to make sure the CAS base timing is at BDTC with TPS unplugged in timing mode also.

Good luck!!

[2.5T_/<ouki]

At 1500 RPMs on a stock Nissan ECU?

The factory JDM ECUs have some pretty aggressive advance as you move up out of the idle range....remember this...this is why when I remap PFC's for people their cars run so much smoother because everyone is running 91 octane at best over here.

Grab a timing light while you're at it and while you're doing the TPS just to make sure the CAS base timing is at BDTC with TPS unplugged in timing mode also.

Good luck!!

Or you can just use conzults (free software also) and put the car into timing mode, no need to remove the TPS plug.

[QuickSpoolSR]

I will be diving into this on Saturday, I will post my results/ be asking questions around 2pm ish on Saturday I would guess lol. I will also download that other program when doing my timing. Thx again everyone

[QuickSpoolSR]

Ok, I couldnt wait till saturday so i started tinkering today.

I set the tps, reads .45 closed and 4.5 wot on ecu talk.

Next i grabbed a screw driver and started turning the idle screw, i had to screw it nearly all the way in to get around 950 rpm and couldnt go much lower without it bogging out and dying.

The timing was still showing around 34, i loosed the cas bolts and tried moving the cas around and was unable to get it below 28 btdc according to ecu talk.

what am i doing wrong?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Ok, I couldnt wait till saturday so i started tinkering today.

I set the tps, reads .45 closed and 4.5 wot on ecu talk.

Next i grabbed a screw driver and started turning the idle screw, i had to screw it nearly all the way in to get around 950 rpm and couldnt go much lower without it bogging out and dying.

The timing was still showing around 34, i loosed the cas bolts and tried moving the cas around and was unable to get it below 28 btdc according to ecu talk.

what am i doing wrong?

Double check the base line/mechanical timing by restabbing the CAS. Set the engine in TDC, pop the valve cover off, line up the dots on the CAS, botton everything back up and re-shoot it to make sure the timing light is shooting on the 2nd mark from the right.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Ok, I couldnt wait till saturday so i started tinkering today.

I set the tps, reads .45 closed and 4.5 wot on ecu talk.

Next i grabbed a screw driver and started turning the idle screw, i had to screw it nearly all the way in to get around 950 rpm and couldnt go much lower without it bogging out and dying.

The timing was still showing around 34, i loosed the cas bolts and tried moving the cas around and was unable to get it below 28 btdc according to ecu talk.

what am i doing wrong?

Usually it wont have any effect, this is why I was suggesting to do the base timing along with the IACV screw. It has it in the FSM step-by-step. Also, what flip is mentioning should be done.

[QuickSpoolSR]

I am going to have to wait till Saturday before I crack open the vc and reset the cas... I'm crossing my fingers it's put in wrong haha

[QuickSpoolSR]

I cracked the valve cover, set the motor to tdc (second mark from the left on the crank pin) put the Cas in properly, and it is doing the exact same thing as before.

One thing i did notice is when i had it at tdc the cam keys were not exactly 10 and 12, they were like 10 and 12:30 or 1... i will post a pic of that once my phone powers back up...

[QuickSpoolSR]

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/johnw1415/IMG_2068.jpeg

[QuickSpoolSR]

the thing in the center is a big breaker bar i had on the crank to turn the motor to tdc.

any ideas guys?

[QuickSpoolSR]

also checked im not throwing any codes

[codyace]

You shouldn't ever need a breaker bar, yeesh.


Reset your TPS too, that will help

[QuickSpoolSR]

it turned easy... thats just what i grabbed to turn it, could have used a regular socket wrench

[QuickSpoolSR]

the tps is set perfect

[Kingtal0n]

you said idle but look at rpm. idle rpm is about 800rpm. Your engine was not at idle in that screen shot, therefore the ignition timing is not unreasonable.

#2 if the idle is really set that high you need to fix that first. Probably a leak somewhere, a vacuum leak is usually the culprit. Could also be a very bad IACV.

[QuickSpoolSR]

I can't get the idle low enough, i can screw the idle screw in almost all the way and it barely gets below 1000, should I replace my iacv? I would assume its hella easy on an s14 because of its location

[ultimateirving]

I can't get the idle low enough, i can screw the idle screw in almost all the way and it barely gets below 1000, should I replace my iacv? I would assume its hella easy on an s14 because of its location

That might be one idea, i know ive gone thru 2 iacvs that didnt work right and caused idle issues.

[QuickSpoolSR]

I'm gunna clean it, and clean the tb and see if it does anything first since I found out iacvs are kinda pricey

[ultimateirving]

Well thats a good start, clean it thorough. With ECU talk can you see what the iacv readings are? I just want to make sure its functioning/recieving voltage.

I would recommend downloading Conzult. and using the "Adjust base idle Feature"
It locks the ecu into timing mode and allows you to mess with the idle as the ECU is expecting it to be.. This way you know when its set right.

[Kingtal0n]

I think the computer software is helping to confuse you.

Maybe pretend like it does not exist. What would you do if the idle was too high? possible causes:
a. bent throttle body
b. misadjusted throttle body
c. vacuum leak
d. leak in the intake manifold gasket (vacuum leak)
e. IACV is bad (stuck open)
f. bad emmisions equipment (i.e. bad charcoal canister valve)

Air is coming from somewhere to raise the idle. the computer is not going to help much with respect to this problem. Yes maybe it will help to pinpoint it but it may also confuse the issue. Find your air leak first then move on from there. Do a "boost leak test" that is, fill the intake and plumbing with boost pressure from an air compressor and find your leaky spots.

[QuickSpoolSR]

I have a boost leak tester, and i checked it, shouldnt be any from the turbo inlet on, i will take off the air intake tube and check that out, one of the holes is pluged with a bottle cap lol, i will at least make sure its rtv'd and look for any cracks, that would be the only possible vac leaks. From the turbo on i was holding 20psi with no leaks

[QuickSpoolSR]

honestly that could be my problem i will let you know. I remember my e36 bmw wouldnt idle becuase of a small crack in the intake tube post maf. I will post my findings once i find time to test this.

[QuickSpoolSR]

Ok i got the idle to around 850 by adjusting the throttle stop screw so the short mark lines up with the roller when it is fully warmed up (oem setting). I did a boost leak check with my boost leak tester and sprayed my soapy water everywhere after that, and i sprayed the aac valve itself and there is a slight bubble of boost leak coming from the aac screw itself... the screw looks fine (mine is metal). Do you think that is a bad leak and should be replaced? aac valves are like $200 thats why i am asking for input. I can actually read the timing now, it was at 15 but every once in a while it would jump down to 10 and then jump back to 15, i wonder if that little boost leak is causing the jumpy idle?

[ultimateirving]

Boost leak shudnt cause bouncy idle, vaccuum leak will however.
There should be an oRing on you IACV screw, See if you replace it with a similar(slightly thicker for good seal) size. That should not be leaking, and keep the metal screw they didnt come in all IACV (plastic ones strip super easy)

[QuickSpoolSR]

Thanks man, I remember i couldnt get it to back out all the way when i tried a while back, i didnt want to force it... should i try again with a little more force? i will def. replace the O-ring good call lol, i was thinking about screwing it all the way in and putting teflon tape, then backing it onto the taped threads.. glad i didnt go that route haha.

[Hoffman5982]

Loosen the nut on the little stud holding the throttle slight open and back it off a hair and see if you can lower the idle manually. Does your idle change as the car is warming up from a cold start? If not, change your coolant temp sensor.

Edit: Didn't even see this second page, so disregard the first part.

[QuickSpoolSR]

I think the cts is good, i mean i can see when the car is warmed up on the ecutalk, i would assume thats the ecu temp sensor reading, not the cluster gauge sensor reading? Im gunna fix the vac leak i found on the aac valve, then put the car back in timing mode, adjust the idle screw again, then check the timing with a gun.. It snowed a couple inches here last night... like wtf it was 85 on tuesday, but hopefully i can get to it this weekend weather permitting.

[SharkMan]

I think the cts is good, i mean i can see when the car is warmed up on the ecutalk, i would assume thats the ecu temp sensor reading, not the cluster gauge sensor reading? Im gunna fix the vac leak i found on the aac valve, then put the car back in timing mode, adjust the idle screw again, then check the timing with a gun.. It snowed a couple inches here last night... like wtf it was 85 on tuesday, but hopefully i can get to it this weekend weather permitting.

Yes first things first fix the the vacation leak, and make sure your timed. Go from there and give us an update after that. I have a PDF of the s14 fsm, if you need it get at me.

[240jake]

you clean the IACV yet?

[QuickSpoolSR]

Ok so I noticed that the o2 sensor voltage never fluctuates it stays at .32 no matter what, hot cold reving ect.. I replaced the o2 sensor but still nothing.. Could it be wiring, what should I check for?

[QuickSpoolSR]

I cut the ground wire and there was no change, then I grounded the sensor to the chassis still no change

[QuickSpoolSR]

Anybody?..

[QuickSpoolSR]

Ok I go the o2 sensor wired up properly and functioning, didnt help. I got the car all warmed up threw a timing gun on it, and cannot for the life of me get the timing to match what the engine us showing with the gun, I can get it to where the ecu is showing a solid 15 but the gun shows it like right at 20 btdc... Could the cams have been installed incorrectly, I punched the cas perfectly already, I can't adjust the cas far enough to get them to match no matter what I do

[wangan_cruiser]

Did u ever tried popping the vc to check if mechanical timing lines up right with cas? Try swapping another cas.

[jt1583]

Ever get anywhere with this quickspool? It really looks if you've checked timing (crank mark + cam marks + actual cam lobe orientation) to be perfect on a good timing gun, and the CAS orientation checks out, then the CAS is just bad.

Ps- take #1 coil out and use a regular ole spark plug wire from it to the plug. Induction clamp on the wire for the timing gun. The skinny loop wire gave me bad results.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk