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View Full Version : S14 SR20det in S13 bogging/hiccuping issue HALP ME


TwelveAM
04-01-2013, 09:13 PM
Sorry if the read is a bit long, but I'm putting as much detail as I can since I'm breaking my head/pocket with this issue.

Sup guys, been breaking my head reading, researching, and heading out to different shops to find the issue with my car, and still have not gotten it resolved.

Got my swap done last weekend and have been driving around with a bogging/hiccuping situation where my car starts to get some kind of fuel cut once the boost kicks in. Specifically at 4k+ RPM the RPM starts to bog and causing the car to start hopping or hiccuping, same as for example I'm cruising on 4th gear at ~40mph at around 2k RPM the car starts bogging and hiccuping. In addition to these symptoms, the car idles pretty rough on a complete stop and will randomly stall on me at a complete stop on neutral. :wtf:

Prior to doing the swap, I had the whole swap on my other chassis in which it was running just fine. The only difference with this swap is that I no longer have a Power FC. I now have a JWT tuned ECU for this set up that they sold me.

My set up:
S14 Zenki SR20det
740cc injectors (according to the old owner of the motor)
Z32 MAF
GT2871R

At first once I picked up the car, I thought it was a fuel delivery issue (since I still had the stock fuel pump in it). I immediately went out and upgraded to a Walbro 255lph, and changed my old fuel filter to a new OEM Z32. The issue seemed to smooth out since I'm more than sure that had some restraining to due with it, but the bogging still remains. The spark plugs were changed with the swap so they're new, but they're still white meaning the car was running pretty lean.

I took it on over to RRR Dyno Tuning where they regulated my A/F ratio to 10:7 and regulated my fuel pressure to 45psi and fixed my engine's timing. Nelson at RRR Dyno assumes it's an ignition/electrical issue, but definitely not fuel related, because the car cuts off at boost - to his words.

The only possibilities left that I have in mind:
Bad ground somewhere?
Fuel pump not getting enough voltage?
Usage of the stock 2" exhaust with the set up?
Bad distributor? Cap/rotor? or Spark plug wires?

Someone enlighten me on this issue, I am completely confused and annoyed with wanting to get this thing running smooth since it's my daily driver, the least I'm wanting to happen is to fuck up my engine. Thanks guys.

codyace
04-01-2013, 10:22 PM
First at foremost, JWT ECU's are not tuneable, so take that with a grain of salt from your tuner. With that said 10.7 AFR is WAY too rich.

I'd be looking into a severe vacuum or boost leak in your situation, as well as to ensure your timing it set correctly. The JWT ECU will require the setup to be as spot on as possible, or it won't work properly.

TwelveAM
04-01-2013, 11:15 PM
First at foremost, JWT ECU's are not tuneable, so take that with a grain of salt from your tuner. With that said 10.7 AFR is WAY too rich.

I'd be looking into a severe vacuum or boost leak in your situation, as well as to ensure your timing it set correctly. The JWT ECU will require the setup to be as spot on as possible, or it won't work properly.

I will look into the vacuum/boost leaks as I have not looked into that yet. As for the JWT ECU, would I have to send it back in for them to set it up to my setup?

I'm still new at all this, so bear with me as I never dealt with issues with the motor until now. Thanks for the quick input cody, really appreciate the help man.

OrangeVirus1
04-01-2013, 11:17 PM
invest in a wideband man. so you can watch what happens when you "cut" in boost.. is it a too lean cut, a WAY TOO rich spot ( this will feel like a cut and you will get too rich backfire/studdering )

and 10.7 is way toooo rich even in full boost.

rwtf
04-01-2013, 11:31 PM
Bad distributor? Cap/rotor? or Spark plug wires?


You shouldn't own a sr20.... :picardfp:

ultimateirving
04-02-2013, 12:22 AM
Also! See if you can borrow a friends coil packs and swap then out. I had an issue where I could cruise and drive decent but In Boost would break up and bog really bad. Turned to be a dead coil pack.

steve shadows
04-02-2013, 07:05 PM
How about the coil pack harness ground? How about the coil packs themselves?

I know Nelson...

Did he use a IR gun to check the heat sink on each coil pack individually to see if they line up? You should also check resistance on each one to make sure one is not way off causing a slight ignition cut.

If you can post a quick video of the 'bogging' I might be able to give you a better opinion also.

PM me to remind me when you post it though since I am in and out.

Thanks

TwelveAM
04-02-2013, 07:48 PM
How about the coil pack harness ground? How about the coil packs themselves?

I know Nelson...

Did he use a IR gun to check the heat sink on each coil pack individually to see if they line up? You should also check resistance on each one to make sure one is not way off causing a slight ignition cut.

If you can post a quick video of the 'bogging' I might be able to give you a better opinion also.

PM me to remind me when you post it though since I am in and out.

Thanks

He didn't check the car as much, as he wasn't there until the end to check the car. He checked the timing, checked and regulated the A/F ratio, did a couple of pulls and tested the MAF with another one. I will try to get ahold of some coilpacks from a friend and test each out.

I will upload a video of the bogging and PM you about it also.

Next thing I'm gonna check will be the spark plugs and check what the Marco at the SR20Store gapped them at. He adviced me to gap them to .14 and see what happens.. He mentioned the heat range being 8.. But shouldn't 7 heat range be more than enough if the car is only pulling stock boost at the moment? (8psi)

This is what happens when you buy a modded car while not knowing jack shit about them lol. FML. Lesson learned.

codyace
04-02-2013, 09:57 PM
At least you're going about it deductivly. Many would have just started throwing parts at it, loosing hope in the proceses.

Plugs should be NGK BKR7E, gapped to .028.

The JWT ECU will be sorted to your injector/maf and engine combination, but being preset can not be changed (this side of someone who can edit and reburn it, which is few and far between)

Post up what you find!

TwelveAM
04-04-2013, 03:38 AM
Here are two videos I took right when I got off of work to demonstrate the issue.

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L6bUGK7ZOT0

codyace
04-04-2013, 08:56 AM
Have you swapped CAS with a known working one?

TwelveAM
04-04-2013, 11:08 AM
Have you swapped CAS with a known working one?
Nah, haven't touched it.

rwtf
04-05-2013, 11:03 AM
get some gas lol

steve shadows
04-08-2013, 01:36 AM
Yeah you need fuel in the tank...seriously. Low fuel level can/will cause bogging in these cars...

steve shadows
04-08-2013, 01:40 AM
get some gas lol

You're sure the grounds for the coil packs are solid?

TwelveAM
04-12-2013, 03:56 PM
Update:

Just got back from testing out the car after I bought a set of bkr7e copper spark plugs and gapped them at .28 and no more bogging at boost! :) car is running super nice. Thanks for the help guys it seems like the spark plugs were the issue. Really appreciate the quick input.

Aaronbradley1234
04-12-2013, 05:04 PM
There are are two things you need to have a running motor. Fuel and spark! Those are the first things I check. If you have both of those and it's still not running then you may have a timing issue. I was off one tooth on the intake side in my twin turbo Z32 and it hated me when I got in boost.