Red RB25 S13

[Ka24Power]

Hey everyone. Here is my build.

Had this s13.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7006/6386257521_bfe4e02ee7_z.jpg

A Farm tractor turned in front of me on a back road, ending its life.

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After many half assed builds I finally decided to give it one last shot and build the s13 I've been trying to build since I was 16.

Picked up this clean, automatic, old-man owned s13 in March 2012

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Extremely clean by Canadian S-chassis standards

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Bought it and caught up on all the neglected maintenance, cleaned it thoroughly inside and out.

Shortly after I 5 speed swapped it and kept the single slammer running for a while longer. Collected a bunch of quality parts.

SPL multi link, HSD coils, some cheap wheels, some cheap seats.
5 lug and R32 GTR brake setup, complete rear 5 lug and Z brake setup, etc. Everything has been carefully chosen and only the best parts have been used/installed.

Swapped my coils, 5 lug and front brake setup on to get it rolling on the new wheels. Drove it like this for a few weeks while I sorted out my engine plans.

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Went to the strip with my buddy and his low-11 second LS swapped s13

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Bought a house part way through the summer and put spending on hold. Few months after getting settled I sourced an engine.

S1 RB25 with basic bolt on mods. Installed that over a weekend.

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Drove it like this until the end of the season. Pulled it off the road and left it for a few months.

Spent some more money, collected some more parts, and started to get the car ready for spring.

I'm not going to list all of what I did, but here are some pictures of the pretty things

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That brings us to where I am now. Waiting for my wheels to come back from powder coating, changing up the colour for the new season.

Cheers

[BossHogg]

god damn that 240 got man handled. Sucks to see, glad you came out ok. Car looks good man. Looks like you are going down the right path.

[Big Zee]

Gold always works for a brake caliper :)

nice build so far, keep the updates going

[OrangeVirus1]

omfg that was so funny.

Here is my build :
clean car
picture 2:
and that's it! dead car. thanks for looking.

[LJBS13]

very nice. perfect platform for a build and looks like your taking it in a good direction. looking forward to seeing whats next.

[Ka24Power]

Small update for today

Went to Buffalo to grab a new exhaust. No markings on it, but I'm 99% sure its a Buddy Club Spec 2

Have to modify my downpipe for it to line up correctly, so its just mocked in this shot.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8625246739_2ab45695a7_z.jpg

[WristWork]

The paint looks very good!

[christpatillo]

The paint looks very good!http://htcf.info/17.jpg
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[Ka24Power]

Thanks, its amazing what a proper claybar, polish, and wax will do for 23 year old paint.

I can't wait to give it a fresh polish and wax for this year. Needs it badly.

[tricky_ab]

It's nice to see more Canadian content on here...

[Ka24Power]

Over the last few weeks I've been working away at the car

I dropped the 18x10.5+15's out back to a square 17x9.5+12 setup, and while I was doing that I had the colour changed up

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I started fitting some of my aero. Unfortunately I only have replica rear valences at this point, but OEM are coming later.

I also installed my Bride Reps with some MO super low rails I picked up

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Installed my new Mishimoto rad, and had to pick up some ISIS slim fans to cool everything down.

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And this is how it sits currently. Swapped in my Z32 MAF and chipped Z32 ecu but unfortunately the ECU has a dead injector driver. Waiting to get that issue sorted out so I can tackle e-test and finally align it properly.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8414/8707827493_562e18aaf6_c.jpg

Oh, I almost forgot. Here's my dog hard posing with the car

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[Dolph_KYAS13]

Car looks good. ... yea buying a house sure gets in the way of things :/

[1jzjoey]

damn that thing looks clean!

[Ka24Power]

Car is almost ready for the road, but I'm having issues with my chipped z32 ecu and found some issues with my harness. I decided to pull it out and re-wire everything, pics in a few days when my harness sleeving shows up.

Since it doesn't drive at the moment I decided to clean it up in anticipation of the first drive.

Mostly original paint cleaned up really well after a wash, clay bar, high speed buffing, high speed polish, and a hand wax to finish it off. Front lip will be re-sprayed soon.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3745/8749798809_6361084764_c.jpg

[nield13]

update this thread man....

[1990 240sx Rb25]

enjoy the buddy club spec 2 i love mine with the sound of my rb25

[CharCharXD]

Tight fitment on the rad haha.

[psi999]

Love the stance

[GU40sx]

whats the sizing on your tires? i'm gonna run 17x9.5 also.

[Ka24Power]

Late summer update

I did stuff. The car is faster, and running great.

I'll write more later, but for now here are some pics!

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[Pinggg]

simple yet so clean, keep it up!

[WristWork]

God damn give me your camera lol,
was about to tell you to paint that lip!
Looks amazing so far, get some skirts

[mr.nismo.]

Wheels? Msg length

[Ka24Power]

17x9.5+12 all around. 215/40/17 up front and 225/40/17 in the rear

[mr.nismo.]

No like what wheels are they?

[Ka24Power]

Varrstoen ES2.2.whatever fake TE's. I want new wheels but these will do for now

[mr.nismo.]

Love the way they look

[Ka24Power]

3 ½ years later…

It’s time to revive this thing. When it came off the road in 2013 I was having trouble getting it to pass Emissions, struggling to keep engine temps down, and had no power steering. It looked ok but it wasn’t what I wanted when it came to driving it. Lots of city construction and the car's small but annoying issues had started to get to me. I had started to regret my decisions to buy replica parts and had no doubt in my mind I wanted to replace them all with tasteful quality pieces.

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It went into storage and when spring came around I had all the same issues and no desire to deal with them. I was done with it, I decided to take some time off and park it in the garage. I started to disassemble slowly from time to time. I wanted to get rid of parts I knew I was replacing to free up extra cash and space. During this time the car almost got parted out a couple times – and I’m glad it didn’t.

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While the car was in the garage being neglected I was spending some time on local classifieds, YAJ, and forums collecting new parts for the build. This part was fun – hunting down the deals and stockpiling for a later date. I started putting some of the new parts on the car in the garage to keep the space as tidy as I could. Most of these pictures are old ones pulled from my phone, sorry for quality!

As mentioned earlier in my thread I had some Kouki 180sx aero and intended to complete the kit.

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I ditched the Bride replicas and waited to find a deal on a cool fixed bucket drivers seat. I found this on YAJ and decided it suited my needs. I haven’t 100% Identified it, but I believe it’s an Artis II – can anyone confirm?

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Shortly after this excellent condition Bride recliner popped up. It matched the driver’s seat well so I had to have it. I believe this one is a Brix 1.5 but again, unsure.

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Found some aero marker mirrors

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A 330mm Nardi classic, BLITZ horn button and some silver face Greddy gauges. Some other electronic goodies will be joining them, more on those later.

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I sold the Varrstoen’s to my buddy for his Type-X hatch and started looking for new wheels

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It took a while to decide what I wanted. There are so many classic wheels that look amazing on Kouki S13. I thought about Blitz 03, Panasport, LMGT4, Te37 and more. Eventually I found these Regamasters in need of light refinishing on YAJ. I had a local wheel guy Blain @ Rightous Garage take care of the rash and one crack (surprised?) and had his powder coater match the original colour.
F: 17x9j et18 215/40r17 Dunlop Z2
R 17x10j et20 245/40r17 Michelin pilot

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Throughout the build hiatus I was occasionally working on the car. I bought this car as an automatic and it was equipped with cruise control as well. As a result there was a lot of extra wiring in the chassis. I had notched my upper rad support to tip the rad forward and make room for the power steering pump and belt again. This meant the bulky harness running below it would no longer fit – time to remove all the extra wiring!

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I’ll suggest that if anyone else is only picking away at a long term is thinking about tearing their harness apart to thin it out – DON’T stop half way through and wait over a year to get back to it. I can tell you first hand, that is a bad idea.

It basically stopped me from doing any further work on the car. It was such a defeating sight when opening the hood that I really lost motivation to go out and look at it.

The car sat a long time before I got back to it. My friends harassed me about the car that will never be finished. As mentioned it almost got parted out. I told myself I wouldn’t give up on it…

That brings us to current day. This winter I found a shop for rent close by for a good price. It’s heated, has running water, enough room for 2 projects and room to do side work. I split the shop with the owner of the black type-x. He’s a welder by day so we have been talking about a few projects in the engine bay.

I moved the car to the shop after we set up and moved all our tools there. It was a great feeling seeing it out of the garage and into a new space, along with that came some much-needed motivation.

I decided the best way to go at it is diving right into the wiring. In addition to thinning the harness I’m fixing the wiring for my reverse lights, which never worked after the engine swap - nor did the speedo, or the tach. I started to make my new transmission sub harness and once that is done I have a battery boost/charging point to mount and wire. The engine harness is going to get a clean up and re-loom as well.

Here are a couple pictures from the shop today. I didn’t take many, most of the time was dedicated to studying wiring diagrams and planning mine out on the white board to make sure I have everything done correctly.

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Thats all for tonight. More updates and work coming soon

-Andrew

[Just Alex]

Man this car had a nice starting point, most aren't that clean nowadays..

Every build has its ups and downs, just keep keeping on and you'll see it through. I too have learned not to stop a build half way through haha. I actually ended parting with a project Miata a couple years ago because of that exactly. Glad you are sticking too it though!

[tricky_ab]

Pleasantly surprised that you have this car still... Keep at my man! I can't wait to see this thing buttoned up and on the road!

[tschmidt55]

ahhh this car. local. cant wait to finally see this thing ripping around KW ;)

[Malik]

this is interesting, keep it up and let us know how it goes.

[Dolph_KYAS13]

Love the turn that this build took. That seat is rad.

[Martino]

Hi :)

msglength

[hotrodjoseph]

Man your car is super clean! Get it done so we can all cruise together this summer.

[Ka24Power]

Love the turn that this build took. That seat is rad.

Thanks Jordie, the Recaro you picked up looks great!


Hi :)

msglength

Hi QT

Man your car is super clean! Get it done so we can all cruise together this summer.

Thanks Joe, pretty ready to not miss another summer. I've said that more than once now but I mean it this time, haha.


I can't wait to see this thing buttoned up and on the road!

Me too... you have no idea.


I should have a substantial wiring update by the end of this weekend. I've been at my shop every night after work grinding away at the mess I left myself. So far it's all going well... can't wait to get through it and back to the fun stuff.

[RB25GUY]

Man what a sweet car, Awesome choice in wheels as well!!! As for the Bride seats that is a Kevlar artis 1 gorgeous seat, Also that is a ergo not brix easiest way to tell is the lower leg bolsters... keep up the great work looking forward to more updates..

[Ka24Power]

Here we go with the wiring!

As mentioned this has been the major hurdle to overcome in the build. A massive part of me wanted to ignore it, put it off longer and start installing the cool parts I’ve collected. I considered the idea of getting a new chassis harness, but really that was going to be a lot more work than just finishing my clean up. In order to get the wiring sorted out without feeling defeated I started setting small goals for myself, taking it piece at a time. Personally I feel a large undertaking seems so much more manageable when it's compartmentalized.

When I 5-speed swapped the chassis years ago I made some rookie mistakes with my wiring. Instead of using the AT lower harness and splicing into the MT reverse and speed sensor wires I bought an MT harness and wired everything as if the car started life as a manual – seemed like the easy way to do it, all the connectors plugged in so it should work, right? Wrong. I quickly realized I was missing my speedo signal, had non-functioning reverse lights, and had a disaster of a harness. I kept all the extra lower wiring at that time knowing I would have to revisit it later.

I started off by running all the wires from SS, Rev sensor, starter signal and alternator up to the correct plugs. I had done an extremely poor job soldering some of the wires initially. Luckily, I had un-touched sections of the original harness so I put those to use. De-pinning the old Nissan connectors wasn’t so bad once I made a small pick-like tool out of MIG wire to release the catches. Patience is the name of the game here – if you get frustrated and rammy the locks will break fairly easily and then the pins could push out of the connector.

I should mention that de-pinning connectors isn’t necessary if split loom or tape is used to wrap the harness. I wanted to use braided harness loom and most of the connectors are too big to push through the loom, hence the de-pinning.

After mocking up the harness on the car I had the layout sorted.

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De-pinned the reverse sensor

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Reverse sensor and speed sensor wrapped and heat-shrinked on the ends. You can see the signal wire for the starter in the same run just behind the 2 sensors.

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re-fit the pins in their respective housings. Taking lots of pictures of the pins in the connectors before disassembly is a must. You can take notes all day but a picture says a thousand words.

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Same process for the alternator connections. I ran into some fun here – the ground cable bolt on the alternator had corroded and the bolt was firmly seized. Unfortunately it broke part way down the threads. I tried to drill the M5x0.8 bolt out but because it broke off below the flush point I couldn’t grind it to a flat surface to center punch it. Ended up drilling slightly off center, had to size up to an M6x1 and heli-coil it. One benefit to this is now it’s a steel bolt in steel heli-coil threads as opposed to a steel bolt into aluminum threads on the alternator case - less opportunity to corrode.

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Here I wanted show the process for one of the major power connectors by the passenger side fuse box.

Start off with a picture to reference which wire to which pin

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de-pin, cut the harness wrap to appropriate length

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slide the wrap over, cut heat-shrink and slide it past the pins.

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re-pin the connector, heat the shrink tube to hold the mesh loom in place, voila.

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Finished product. I couldn’t find any heat shrink locally for the thickest par of the harness so I used the harness tape we often use at work - it’s basically hockey tape but looks alright and holds well.

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With the transmission harness complete I had to turn my attention to the chassis side of it. This is the disaster I left myself

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Fun, right?

The roll of wire by the brake master cylinder is made up of the wires for the A/T computer, Cruise control computer and hardware connections. I went as far as removing the relay holders and de-pinned the fuse terminals in the fuse boxes to further thin the harness. Fewer wires left cut and taped in the harness would make any future trouble shooting easier I figure.

Passenger side fuse box before cleaning up

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After cleaning up

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Drivers side relay box before cleaning up. I had initially planned to use the 2 of the existing relays to run fan 1 and fan 2 off a 2-temp thermal switch. This didn’t end up being a worthwhile plan. The gauge of the wire was too small and I was having trouble getting an adapter for the BMW temp switch I planned to use. Instead I bought a Flex-A-Lite fan controller, I’ll save details on that for another post.

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Here is the relay box cleaned up. I’m trying to fit it under the fender brace but the cover adds a lot of height to the box.
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In the process of tidying all this wiring up I pulled the dash with the intentions of completely removing the wires for AT, cruise and unused foglights right back to the connectors behind the dash. I changed my mind on this; it’s just not worth the hassle to remove what might add up to 2lbs of wires when I don’t need the space behind the dash. I was happy I pulled the dash when I was tracing what wires I could and couldn’t remove from the harness and when I was confirming the chassis side of the speed sensor and reverse sensor.

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This evening I finished the majority of the chassis harness work. I still have to solder 5 wires but I ran out of suitable size heat shrink. I tucked the harness back under the rad support to finalize the length of the last wires so I should be able to smash them out tomorrow after work.

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Seeing the engine bay this tidy (as far as wiring goes) was a HUGE achievement.

I threw my ARC intake box in to see if I could get away with the fuse box in the location seen above. It looks like I'm going to be forced to leave it in the stock location. Wires are a little too tight and extending them a whole 4" isn't worth the hassle.

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Once I ran out of heat shrink I pulled the headlight assemblies out of storage and reinstalled them. I need to find a cover for the drivers side that doesn't have a dent in it.

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I was really hoping to reconnect the battery today and make sure all my wiring is correct. The wiring diagrams and my DVOM say it's all good but seeing everything function is a must before the harness is loomed and permanently installed.

That's all for this week, stay tuned...

-Andrew

[sommmatt]

Nice to see you back at it.

[Ka24Power]

Well I let the build thread get way behind but I have been working away at the car.

I've finished 99% of the interior work, sadly I don't have any pictures of the in-progress and it's currently partially disassembled again. I'll save the post on the interior until it's complete.

The recent effort has been going into the engine bay. I hate how messy and cluttered the bay looks, it really gives the unfinished impression. I contemplated tubs but decided it isn't a necessity. A fresh coat of paint and some refreshing of the motor should make a big difference.

I borrowed an engine crane from a friend of mine and we pulled the RB25

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Unfortunately I had to remove all the parts I had recently re-installed after fixing my wiring. This looks like unnecessary work but I wanted to be sure all lights/accessories functioned before stripping down for paint.

Started cleaning with some foaming degreaser

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Here I have the wiring, brackets, headlights, PS, brake booster/lines and clutch master all pulled and the bay cleaned. I still need to get a proper grease/wax remover before sanding

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I had to pull the motor to take care of this rust. It's worse on the driver's side but both will need patches.

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And as usual the top of the strut towers need a clean up.

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With the engine and trans out I had a look at the clutch. It's super low mileage so as I expected nothing to worry about.

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I got this strengthened clutch pivot from GK Tech. Most people say the RB25 pivot is plenty strong but now I know there's nothing to worry about.

Next to the original

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Installed

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In the effort to get rid of my horrible feeling shifter I had done a number of things.
Firstly, I got rid of the C's short shifter that was installed... as it was meant for SR20. Got a Nismo short shift linkage, some GK Tech return springs and a new Vertex knob.

With the transmission out already it was easy to install them. The new GK tech springs are a double spring with a couple options for stiffness

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The kit comes with new caps to fit the larger diameter springs. You can see the slight difference here

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The return force is much stiffer and the shifter has no more slop with the proper linkage installed. It feels really nice on the bench, hope it isn't overly stiff when driving longer trips

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I'm going to be sanding the bay this week, hopefully building a make-shift booth and spraying paint this weekend. I'm going to spray it silver or something that will go well with red valve covers. Im still undecided what colour the body will be done so the silver is neutral in that regard. I'll try to stay on top of the updates. Lots to be done and nice weather is around the corner

[hotrodjoseph]

Looks good dude! Yes silver bay club

[subtlecuddle]

great thread, keep up the good work!

[supersayianjim]

what are you going to do about that rust?

[Ka24Power]

The strut tower top plates are pretty easy to take care of. I drilled all the spot welds out, used the plates as a template to make a new one out of 16g sheet. Those are getting spot welded on in the same way and some small beads around the edges. The rail to fender patches will be done with 16g as well. I'll probably overlap it in 2 layers, one from from the wheel side and the other from the bay side.

I have pictures of the progress so far but my memory card is at the shop, I'll grab it when I'm there this weekend

[Ka24Power]

Ok time for a little update here.

I definitely didn't make as much progress as I needed to earlier in the off season so I'm trying to get this engine bay done as quickly as possible so the car can go for paint sooner. I underestimated how much time it would take to make the patches and do the rust repair properly. Sucks to realize, but at this point all I can do is push through.

I started with the strut top repair. Drilled all the spot welds from the old plates to remove them. At first it looked worse than I thought underneath, but most of the rust was from the plate that came off.

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Some wire wheeling, rust converter and it's looking a lot better.

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Other side done

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Plate cut out, holes cut for plug welding

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Plate clamped down, starting the plug welds.

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Zapping away

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Both plates are done and mostly cleaned up around the edges and plug welds. Moved on to the repairs where the frame rails meet the fender tubs. The rust didn't look as bad from the engine bay side but the wheel side was a different story. once I ground the undercoat off the patch size grew considerably.
I'm repairing this in 2 layers like the OEM rail/fender is welded up. First section cut to size and then zapped in, some sealer rust paint overtop.

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I drilled holes to plug weld the patch to the frame rail and strengthen the whole plate instead of just welding around the edges. I forgot to take pics while welding it, only have the after shots. Using similar gauge steel to the original stuff makes welding it in a little more challenging. Lots of small spot size welds, moving around the heat and waiting for the patch to cool to avoid warping it and breaking other welds.

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The other side is in better shape so it should be a little faster to get done, then I can put a fresh layer of undercoating in both front wheel houses and finish sanding the bay down.

[tricky_ab]

Glad to see that you're still plugging away on this! I hope to honestly see it rolling around this summer.

[Jefro240]

Nice to see you are still alive & playing with a 240 :2f2f:

[Martino]

ahemmmm, patiently waiting for you to drive with us

[Ka24Power]

Well I've made some good progress in the last few weeks. I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel - helping me pick up momentum!

Since I last updated the drivers side rail/inner tub and passenger side inner tub are patched, as well as a couple small spots on the drivers strut tower.

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With the big patches complete I took care of a small one on the drivers strut tower and filled in a few of the unused holes in the engine bay. Also zapped in the corners of the modified rad support for rigidity - forgot to take pics but it's nothing exciting.

At this point I'm 99% satisfied with the state of the engine bay before paint. I had previously planned to build a DIY booth in my shop and paint it myself. With the way the project dragged out longer than I planned I've decided to have the body shop paint the engine bay. I'm going to do the rest of the work on the engine while the car is away so I can save time.

Time for a final test fit of all panels - gotta make sure it all looks proper before fighting painted panels into place!

did the cool boy hood mod

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bay all ready to spray

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Brought the Rega's to the shop, dropped the coils

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I still have to make some fender braces in front of the wheels and I need to make a couple brackets that are missing from the rear valances. I have a hood vent on order that I need to fit and then I can send the car out! I'll be building a plywood splitter/guard to try and protect my front lip. I know it won't last long if I don't do something to protect it.

Hopefully the next pictures of the car will be all the same colour...

[Ka24Power]

This isn't related to the 240 but I've been having a lot of fun with my current DD as well. I picked this thing up last year with a 'bad rear axle' which turned out to be a bad u-joint and wheel bearing. I had the rear bumper fabbed by a local guy and threw my summer wheels/tires on a couple weeks ago. Once I rebuild the E-locker 3rd sitting in my garage that will be going in, followed by a mild lift and tube front bumper.

by far one of the best DD's I've owned - despite the awful fuel mileage.

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[Dolph_KYAS13]

You should hold off on the 4 runner bumpers. I am currently finishing the design and CAD work and they should be ready for CNC in a couple weeks.


Love the progress on both vehicles.

-Jordie

[tricky_ab]

I know you're hyped, but I can't wait to see it as well. I know you wanted to paint the bay yourself, but sometimes it's worth it to sub it out (for your sanity).

And going by my FB and Instagram feed, there's quite a few people purchasing Hilux's now...

[Ka24Power]

Oh shit Jordie are you designing the Outrun Fab front bumper? I'd like to see how it will look!

Thanks Matt, part of it is for my sanity but mostly to speed the process up

[supersayianjim]

awesome progress!!!

[Ka24Power]

Long time no talk, Zilvia

A lot has happened since the last update but I didn't take pictures of nearly enough of it.

After the engine bay metal work was done I built a spray booth in my shop and laid some single stage silver down. First time using a gun, didn't turn out half bad. I'd definitely go with a base/clear next time around

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The engine went back in with a few changes..


To start I pulled the intake manifold off for a refresh. I found a ton of old dry crystalized coolant in the passages, fun surprise. Sandblasted away the old spray paint and had it sonic cleaned to get the old coolant out. Went together with fresh gaskets and some Nismo 740's. Also did a coolant hard line delete for the oil filter warming circuit.

Got rid of the stock valve covers in favour of RB26 ones. Had them painted the same colour as my second S13 - always loved this colour. Added some press in -AN fittings for the vents and drilled the front cover for the VCT gear.

I had been searching for cams with no luck. I almost gave up on the idea but literally 2 or 3 days after I installed the new covers and timing belt a set of Tomei 256 Poncams popped up on YAJ. [email protected] came through as always!

Tossed some Yellow Jacket coil packs in to finish the top end build.

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When the car came off the road I was dying for more power. The stock turbo was at its limit so I did some digging and decided to order a Hypergear ATR43G3SAT bolt on unit. This thing is LARGE compared to the stocker.
Followed it up with a RawBrokerage S13 swap elbow. The combo didn't work with a stock downpipe.. later I had a local shop Unit2 Fab modify it to maximize ground clearance.

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With the new bigger turbo, injectors, cams the old intercooler setup was going to be a problem. Found and older Blitz kit that needed a little cleaning up. It was an SR kit so I made new engine bay piping.

Keeping the engine cool was a bit of an issue in the past, I modified the rad support to fit a new Koyo rad and put some slim aluminum fans behind it with a Flex-a-lite PWM auto fan controller. I might need to mount my oil cooler somewhere else in the future but I like how protected it is here. Theres also a small PS cooler between the intercooler and rad.

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Grabbed a Sikky big swap swaybar. I absoultely hate the bright green but I couldn't justify powder coating a brand new part. My shop mate was installing a new bar in the back of his ST at the same time

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Had most of the body parts back on after paint and mounted all the small stuff in the engine bay. I went a little OCD and bought a ton of new zinc plated hardware and a nut-sert tool. Well worth it for assembly.

I felt like I had so much done at this point but I had so much ahead of me... I'll add more tomorrow.

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[Dolph_KYAS13]

Great write up and pictures. Glad to see progress is being made.

[Ka24Power]

Thanks Jordie!

[Ka24Power]

So it was looking like a complete engine bay but like an idiot I left all the fab work until the end.

I was pretty dead-set on running the ARC box especially after I got my hands on a NOS stock air filter. My turbo location made a Z32 MAF impossible to run, had to make some tight corners to meet the turbo at all.

Hypergear recommends a 3.5" intake pipe for this turbo, to make things more fun.
A handful of pie cuts later I had this mocked up

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I read good things about R35 MAF sensors and they're really small - tucked it away to keep the bay looking clean. Also put the catch can return line on the intake pipe. Had Mitch @ Unit2 weld it all up for me. Turned out awesome.

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I decided to build an overkill catch can setup, because why not? It's 3 layers baffled with some fuel cell foam in one layer to separate oil from air. It was really fun designing this and putting it together. I had a friend weld the tub for me and then had Mitch finish weld it.

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Here it is all plumbed. The -AN fittings on the cylinder head mean trimming the hood bracing, the fittings on the catch can were the same story. Glad I never painted the underside of the hood..

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The car ran like crap with no tune and all the changes but it finally moved under its own power!! I had it towed to Unit 2 and they did a great job tucking the downpipe/exhaust up for maximum ground clearance.

Brought it to my work and did a full nut and bolt check, aligned it and then cranked the coilovers all the way up for the trailer. Time to tune!

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When I first got to the tuner everything seemed to be going well. He didn't find any issues with the car and seemed pretty happy with what I'd brought him.

I threw in some fresh plugs, we set the ignition timing and he calibrated the MAF and injectors. All seemed to be off to a great start... but then we had a problem with the MAF signal.

Completely unexpected and overlooked on my part was the placement of the MAF. I was so stuck on running the ARC intake box I put it too close to the turbo and the bend in the intake pipe. The air is so turbulent at idle its almost impossible to tune. Voltage was seen fluctuating from 600mv to 1200mv at times! Disappointed, I asked the tuner to do as much as he could so that I didn't completely waste a trip. He put a rough base tune in but I have to figure out a solution to this sensor so we can get it running really well. It idles like crap and doesn't cruise well, but under load the signal and tune smooths out. We only tuned to 6k at low boost levels.

The silver lining of the day was having no other issue appear on the dyno. No fluid leaks, no overheating issues, motor was healthy when the air was moving fast enough to provide a stable MAF reading.
Oh, and with the full straight pipe it sounded AMAZING. I was so happy but also so frustrated.


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As soon as I got in the truck to drive home I was racking my brain for solutions. I've started with something really easy that might make all the difference - a honeycomb cell in the intake right before the MAF. Should really help straighten the air out before it hits the sensor.


Part should be here this week, in the mean time I've been putting a few KM on the car to shake it down. Anyone who's had their project car off the road for more than a few years at a time knows how good it feels to be behind the wheel again. I wish it didn't take me so long, but I'm glad I did everything (*ahem*intake*ahem*) the way I did without rushing or compromising.

The interior needs a really good detail, I'll get on that - stay tuned for another update soon

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[mr.nismo.]

You could always invert your arc box up, and run an oem scoop. That way you can run the z maf. That's what I did to solve my clearance issue

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Ka24Power]

Well the honeycomb cell showed up today, just epoxied it in the intake pipe. Waiting for the epoxy to cure means no driving tonight, at least tomorrow morning I'll know if it solved my problem.

@Mr.Nismo. Thats a good idea, I never thought of inverting the ARC box. I sold my Z32 maf when I got the car to start on this setup anyway so swapping back isn't a cost effective move anymore.

I think at this point if the cell doesn't smooth the reading from maf I'm going to switch to a MAP based ECU. I'd rather spend the money on a newer more capable standalone than fab materials and labour to re-make the intake pipe.

The tuner was suggesting installing a Link plug n play but I found a Haltech platinum pro plug in locally. I downloaded the Haltech software to fool around and it (obviously) makes the PFC look very dated. Now a small part of me hopes this cell is a bust so I can talk myself into the Haltech or similar.

I really wanted to keep the period correct J-style theme going in the interior but losing the FC controller isn't the worst. I'd use the new standalone for boost control and get rid of the BLITZ power meter/SBC. The Uras edition white doesn't match anything else inside the car anyway.

[DJTTon]

How did you mount up all the wiring in the bay? Did you use like push-type cable ties?

[Ka24Power]

I used a bunch of the original push clips that have wings on them and taped them into the harness like OEM. Also used zipties with push clips on them where I could for the smaller stuff

[Standard]

Awesome build, digging the engine bay! The comment about doing it the right way, but taking longer and the satisfaction afterwards is spot on. Very commendable, I can totally relate. If you change your mind about reverting back to n62 maf, pm me. I'll send you a nice one I have I'm not using for shipping cost to help out a member that appreciates this chassis and is doing things right! Keep it up man, can't wait to see more!!

[mr.nismo.]

Awesome build, digging the engine bay! The comment about doing it the right way, but taking longer and the satisfaction afterwards is spot on. Very commendable, I can totally relate. If you change your mind about reverting back to n62 maf, pm me. I'll send you a nice one I have I'm not using for shipping cost to help out a member that appreciates this chassis and is doing things right! Keep it up man, can't wait to see more!!This is rep points worthy if it was still around.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Ka24Power]

Awesome build, digging the engine bay! The comment about doing it the right way, but taking longer and the satisfaction afterwards is spot on. Very commendable, I can totally relate. If you change your mind about reverting back to n62 maf, pm me. I'll send you a nice one I have I'm not using for shipping cost to help out a member that appreciates this chassis and is doing things right! Keep it up man, can't wait to see more!!

Dude thank you so much for the offer! I don’t think it will be necessary though.

I started the car with the honeycomb cell in the intake and it made a massive change to the MAF reading. The correct amount of air being metered put the map 6 load cells higher. The tuner did his best to work around my setup on the dyno and had to make some out of the ordinary changes to the voltage curve as a result. I played around with the curve to get the car driving a little, bit I don’t trust that all my issues will be resolved and I’m hesitant to book a re tune.

So, I decided to stop trying to make the PFC work and I’m going to pick up a Haltech platinum pro plugin this afternoon. I’m going to miss the PFC hand controller on the dash but I’m excited to take advantage of the extra features Haltech offers.

If anyone needs a PFC and Datalogit for their RB25 send me a message and we can work something out!

[Ka24Power]

Anyone here into tuning? I'm gonna nerd out a bit in this post. I've wanted to learn for a long time now, I've read a decent amount and have a sliver of an idea of what I'm doing.

So,

This weekend I spent a bunch of time "tuning" the car and HOLY SHIT does it drive great.

Saturday afternoon I calibrated the MAF curve up to 4k free revving in the driveway (sorry neighbors, haha). I could see how much the tuner had to add in each voltage plot to get it reading on the fuel table, I should have taken a screenshot. The maf signal is also butter smooth now. Huge win!
Some HEAVY rain came out of nowhere and stopped me for a little. Vented hood and rain don't mix, FYI. I'm using a contractor garbage bag folded up to keep the coil packs dry and it feels so ..trashy

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Sunday morning my friend came over and we drove to another friend's to watch the British Grand Prix - what an unreal race, lots of action!
I had him drive there while I logged from the passenger seat and tuned. Had it roughly sorted in 20-30 mins of driving, did the same on the way back and it was running great. No knock, safe AFR's and no surging like before. If only I had known that a $24 honeycomb cell would have saved me so much headache... Lesson learned! If I ever build a MAF setup again

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I didn't end up with the Haltech I had lined up. The PFC was now doing EXACTLY what I wanted and expected when I booked a tune, so I decided to stick with it.

Instead I spent the afternoon driving, watching the map and tuning more! A long highway drive is basically perfect to adjust the light load and do some higher load pulls. We tuned as high as [email protected] and FUCK does this thing MOVE!

I had to stop there, any more boost and the AFR's get a little lean. I didn't touch the ignition table at all, need to learn more first.
When I had the car tuned initially it seemed like I was running out of fuel pump but we weren't sure if it was the shit signal from the maf throwing things off. I wish I had a fuel pressure gauge in the car but I think this is most likely, I kept adding to the fuel table in the load cells I'm hitting and injector duty goes up but AFR does not go down. On the injector duty topic - anyone have Datalogit experience? For some reason I can't log duty %. I can watch it on the hand controller but none of the watches or chart watches display correctly. 'basic injduty' always reads 0, there is no 'Advanced injduty' only 'Advanced duty' and that one always displays 95. Annoying to not be able to log it, memory is only so good and doesn't plot on a load map, lol.

Anyway, fuel pump seems to make sense. I only have a walbro 255 in the tank, they max out around 400hp and I made ~350 at 1bar the first go at it.
A Bosch 044 should be the answer. The new question: Leave the 255 in tank as a lift pump and put the 044 inline, or, ditch the 255 and mount the 044 in tank?? I'm not building a swirl pot, that seems overkill for 400hp.

The internet says the Jay's racing 044 sock has issues collapsing on itself, want to make sure that isn't an issue with any other ones if I mount in tank.

Either way, an 044 is going in the car, somewhere.

Stay tuned to see where on the next episode of "Andrew tries to make 400hp"

[S14Serge]

Man your s13 is goals AF man!!!

[Ka24Power]

Well the car has been running around great at 1bar

I've put a lot of seat time in, logged some data and I'm happy running this tune until I can book another appointment.

Went to see a friend, I'm sure you'll all recognize this car.

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Driving with Liam made me realize how loud my car is, and also how not 500hp it is, haha. Feels good to drive with cool cars again.

Shop hangs

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Speaking of cool cars - my good friend Ryan just finished his RB26 swapped Datsun 240z. He's running mostly S-chassis suspension, 5 bolt, Z-brakes, a big single and made over 400ps without breaking a sweat. Car rips.

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Miata is stock engine but absolutely destroys in the corners

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Interior tune

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My new fuel pump came in! Still waiting on fittings and a fresh sock for the Walbro. Decided to leave the 255 in tank and the 044 is going inline with bigger wiring from a relay. I have a feeling the new pump is gonna be loud but that's the way she goes

[s13-180sx]

Dude, awesome build! This thing is so rad

[Malik]

this is very nice... you're doing great.

[Ka24Power]

Dude, awesome build! This thing is so rad

I'm flattered that this was your first post, thanks!

this is very nice... you're doing great.

Thanks dude!

[JrDarknes]

Damn that interior is clean, also nice work on the rust in the engine bay.

[BenRice]

Just checked in on this board for the first time in years and stoked to see this has progressed so far!

[da_crew10]

Dude that is the best execution of an aftermarket vent on a factory hood I have seen thus far. Cool car!

[Ka24Power]

Damn that interior is clean, also nice work on the rust in the engine bay.

Thanks man! I was tempted to go with red seats but I'm glad I kept it a little more low key.

Just checked in on this board for the first time in years and stoked to see this has progressed so far!

Thanks, I'm pretty happy with the progression too... beats sitting in the garage in pieces!

Dude that is the best execution of an aftermarket vent on a factory hood I have seen thus far. Cool car!

Glad you like it too! I wish it turned out a little better. I knew it would crack if I tried to smooth it into the factory metal so I skipped on that, what I didn't expect was clear coat cracking off. In search of KP hood without spending $2m HMU if you have one.. haha

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Two of my buddies cars. SW20 is new to Matt... should be getting some new go-fast goodies soon.

Dan's Foxbody just got a brand new Dart 363 and has a big supercharger... it's an absolute beast.

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New fuel pump is in, runs great. I need to book a full throttle tune so I know it's safe. I have it setup extra rich and conservative with timing. Really want to know what it puts down now.

I'm joining Jordie (Dolph_KYAS13) and a couple others for some open lapping next sunday. Should be fun to stretch it's legs. I'd love to catch a drift day before it goes into storage but the season is almost over

[Donedreamin]

Thank you for not only taking beautiful photos, but for uploading them on flickr!

Beautiful car and looking forward to more updates

[PoorMans180SX]

What a nice car! I see you're going through the factory chassis harness, what a tedious process eh?

[da_crew10]

I have owned 3 kp hoods dude. About 1000-1200 to your door. Level up!

[pjurisprudencia]

This thread was v good

[PoorMans180SX]

Updates on this thing? Footage?

[Ka24Power]

Yo thanks for the bump! No major updates to get excited about right now but there is a bunch of change coming this summer.

The car was essentially gas and go all 2020, felt amazing to have no major issues since I got it back on the road. I did some more dyno tuning (myself) and have a bunch of changes coming in 2021.. more on those later

On another note I somehow locked myself out of my Zilvia account and can’t get a password reset email. I’m sure I have some pics to upload but it’s too painful on my phone. Thank god Chrome has me logged in still so I can PM a mod.

Once I get that sorted I’ll make a real update!

[PoorMans180SX]

Yo thanks for the bump! No major updates to get excited about right now but there is a bunch of change coming this summer.

The car was essentially gas and go all 2020, felt amazing to have no major issues since I got it back on the road. I did some more dyno tuning (myself) and have a bunch of changes coming in 2021.. more on those later

On another note I somehow locked myself out of my Zilvia account and can?t get a password reset email. I?m sure I have some pics to upload but it?s too painful on my phone. Thank god Chrome has me logged in still so I can PM a mod.

Once I get that sorted I?ll make a real update!

Awesome, good to hear! Like I said, I'd love to see some action vids if you have any, I love the RB sounds and S13's with them are kinda hard to come by these days!