AaronMC
03-07-2013, 05:44 PM
I posted this on NICOClub, but I thought I would share this on here for those who don't forum jump.
I searched all over the interwebs when planning my VLSD swap, and not once did I find anything that warned about what was to come. Here is the story (and some pictures later on).
After welding my open differential, and finding out that a new pair of tires is down to the nylon in 30 days of daily driving, I decided it was time to move to an LSD.
Doing all of my research, I was a little wary of the 3/4" length difference between the J30 pumpkin and S13 pumpkin (not realizing the driveshaft has that much play in the tranny anyway....) So I thought I would just put the VLSD inside my S13 pumpkin. I searched and searched for every post I could find on the subject, and from what I read, everyone said it should work, it would work, blah blah, you just need the input shafts and all that good stuff.
I went to my local Pick 'N' Pull where J30s are abundant, and pulled myself a VLSD. I went and ordered some new thrust washers from Nissan, since I heard the left shim was usually thicker than the right, and that the wearing of the thrust washers is how the VLSD loses its potency. I was also a little excited about the lower gear ratio, as I deliver pizza for Amici's, and increased gas mileage means more $$ for me :snoop:
I apologize for the lack of pictures for the first half of this explanation.. in all of my frustration, making a post about this never came to mind.
So I attempted to install the VLSD, making sure I kept the carrier spacers from my differential in order of how they were when I took it apart, and it would not go in, I tried turning it, I tried turning the pinion gear, it just wouldn't go in. Taking a second look, I realized the 47 tooth J30 ring gear is about 1/2" thicker than the 49 tooth S13 gear. So I swapped the carrier spacers to the other side to shift the ring gear over a little bit. It went in! It had a little bit of play, about a millimeter or so of movement, but I thought that was okay, so I installed it and took it for a drive. I immediately knew something was wrong. When changing from stop or coast to moving force, and vice versa, there was a knock, and while coasting, it sang like no other, filling the entire car with it's painful harmony.
I decided to swap the 49 tooth S13 ring gear onto the VLSD. It worked, but not so cherry. I will explain down below, but first, I must let you know, the first thrust washers I installed were the 1.49mm ones. Just a fair warning to you guys, Idk what everyone else is talking about, saying doubling up on thrust washers makes it "stiffer, like a 2-way diff." I put two 1.49mm washers in there and it was literally as stiff as the welded I had in there beforehand. :facepalm:
I'm not going to mention any names.... *cough cough* http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/200226-shimming-r200-j30-vlsd.html *cough*
So I installed two 1.01mm washers and it drives oh so smooth.
I decided to start taking pictures for you guys when I took the diff out yet again to swap in the thinner 1.01mm shims.
So it fits with the spacers in the OEM positions. That little black ring is the rubber ring that protrudes from the opening for the input shaft to protect the inside of the differential from debris and other goodies.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-10_09-51-42_929_zpsaa732aa1.jpg
I will explain why the ring was torn off as the pictures continue
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-10_09-51-58_705_zps12b4f25f.jpg
4.08 gear ratio VLSD :dblthumb:
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-10_09-52-39_408_zps28c65f08.jpg
...Does this look a little off to you? The VLSD was built to center the input shafts with different shaft lengths. That center was obviously designed to be in the center of the J30 VLSD, which has a thicker ring gear. The consequence of shifting the VLSD over to compensate for the thinner ring gear is shown below.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-10_09-56-01_565_zps86e8c634.jpg
Thus the cause of the torn off rubber dust ring. Thankfully, there won't be any dust making it's way in there.....
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-09_14-50-49_426_zps9592dc16.jpg
And the other side protrudes, as you can see
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-09_14-51-01_228_zps63429f22.jpg
To install the differential with this setup, you need two people. I used to be able to do this by myself, but unless you can bench press multiple reps of 250, I suggest you don't attempt to do this on your own. First, you have to disconnect the exhaust hanger by the gas tank, and disconnect the sway bar brackets. Have you partner lay on the driver side, and you on the passenger side, and as you lift the differential, you put the nose in above the sway bar first, next, lift the back end of the diff above where it sits when aligned, then tilt the differential, lowering the passenger side input shaft , holding with one hand while your partner attempts to hold the tilt, take your other hand and shove the axle end into the input shaft. After that you can install it as you normally would. The passenger side axle, however, cannot be installed any other way.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-09_14-51-21_732_zps65c35a49.jpg
The only downside to doing all of this is a little whir from the driver side CV axle while coasting (due to the excess play I would assume.)
If you decide to try some 1.49mm thrust washers against my advice, be warned, for this will happen to your driver side CV joint..
(Yes, that's an imprint of an axle bearing on the cap.)
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-09_15-18-24_247_zpsfbe8aba9.jpg
So there you have it. Since none of this information came up in all of my pre-project research, I assume nobody has ever tried this before, or if they have, they never cared enough to share with everyone else the trouble they will go through getting this done.
I searched all over the interwebs when planning my VLSD swap, and not once did I find anything that warned about what was to come. Here is the story (and some pictures later on).
After welding my open differential, and finding out that a new pair of tires is down to the nylon in 30 days of daily driving, I decided it was time to move to an LSD.
Doing all of my research, I was a little wary of the 3/4" length difference between the J30 pumpkin and S13 pumpkin (not realizing the driveshaft has that much play in the tranny anyway....) So I thought I would just put the VLSD inside my S13 pumpkin. I searched and searched for every post I could find on the subject, and from what I read, everyone said it should work, it would work, blah blah, you just need the input shafts and all that good stuff.
I went to my local Pick 'N' Pull where J30s are abundant, and pulled myself a VLSD. I went and ordered some new thrust washers from Nissan, since I heard the left shim was usually thicker than the right, and that the wearing of the thrust washers is how the VLSD loses its potency. I was also a little excited about the lower gear ratio, as I deliver pizza for Amici's, and increased gas mileage means more $$ for me :snoop:
I apologize for the lack of pictures for the first half of this explanation.. in all of my frustration, making a post about this never came to mind.
So I attempted to install the VLSD, making sure I kept the carrier spacers from my differential in order of how they were when I took it apart, and it would not go in, I tried turning it, I tried turning the pinion gear, it just wouldn't go in. Taking a second look, I realized the 47 tooth J30 ring gear is about 1/2" thicker than the 49 tooth S13 gear. So I swapped the carrier spacers to the other side to shift the ring gear over a little bit. It went in! It had a little bit of play, about a millimeter or so of movement, but I thought that was okay, so I installed it and took it for a drive. I immediately knew something was wrong. When changing from stop or coast to moving force, and vice versa, there was a knock, and while coasting, it sang like no other, filling the entire car with it's painful harmony.
I decided to swap the 49 tooth S13 ring gear onto the VLSD. It worked, but not so cherry. I will explain down below, but first, I must let you know, the first thrust washers I installed were the 1.49mm ones. Just a fair warning to you guys, Idk what everyone else is talking about, saying doubling up on thrust washers makes it "stiffer, like a 2-way diff." I put two 1.49mm washers in there and it was literally as stiff as the welded I had in there beforehand. :facepalm:
I'm not going to mention any names.... *cough cough* http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/200226-shimming-r200-j30-vlsd.html *cough*
So I installed two 1.01mm washers and it drives oh so smooth.
I decided to start taking pictures for you guys when I took the diff out yet again to swap in the thinner 1.01mm shims.
So it fits with the spacers in the OEM positions. That little black ring is the rubber ring that protrudes from the opening for the input shaft to protect the inside of the differential from debris and other goodies.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-10_09-51-42_929_zpsaa732aa1.jpg
I will explain why the ring was torn off as the pictures continue
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-10_09-51-58_705_zps12b4f25f.jpg
4.08 gear ratio VLSD :dblthumb:
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-10_09-52-39_408_zps28c65f08.jpg
...Does this look a little off to you? The VLSD was built to center the input shafts with different shaft lengths. That center was obviously designed to be in the center of the J30 VLSD, which has a thicker ring gear. The consequence of shifting the VLSD over to compensate for the thinner ring gear is shown below.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-10_09-56-01_565_zps86e8c634.jpg
Thus the cause of the torn off rubber dust ring. Thankfully, there won't be any dust making it's way in there.....
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-09_14-50-49_426_zps9592dc16.jpg
And the other side protrudes, as you can see
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-09_14-51-01_228_zps63429f22.jpg
To install the differential with this setup, you need two people. I used to be able to do this by myself, but unless you can bench press multiple reps of 250, I suggest you don't attempt to do this on your own. First, you have to disconnect the exhaust hanger by the gas tank, and disconnect the sway bar brackets. Have you partner lay on the driver side, and you on the passenger side, and as you lift the differential, you put the nose in above the sway bar first, next, lift the back end of the diff above where it sits when aligned, then tilt the differential, lowering the passenger side input shaft , holding with one hand while your partner attempts to hold the tilt, take your other hand and shove the axle end into the input shaft. After that you can install it as you normally would. The passenger side axle, however, cannot be installed any other way.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-09_14-51-21_732_zps65c35a49.jpg
The only downside to doing all of this is a little whir from the driver side CV axle while coasting (due to the excess play I would assume.)
If you decide to try some 1.49mm thrust washers against my advice, be warned, for this will happen to your driver side CV joint..
(Yes, that's an imprint of an axle bearing on the cap.)
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s383/AaronMC_/S13/2012-12-09_15-18-24_247_zpsfbe8aba9.jpg
So there you have it. Since none of this information came up in all of my pre-project research, I assume nobody has ever tried this before, or if they have, they never cared enough to share with everyone else the trouble they will go through getting this done.