Starting Problem

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Having a little starting problem on my S14. It's almost like the infamous s14 ignition switch problem where you have to almost break your key to turn the car on but a bit different.

When i turn the key to the START position i just get 1 click at the starter motor. I sometimes have to turn my key 15 times before it turns over the starter motor and the engine turns on. I'm almost positive it's NOT the ignition switch as i have remote start on my car and trying to start the car this way also results in a click from the starter motor. If it was the ignition switch the remote start would work flawlessly each time.


Diagnosis:

- I've supplied the starter solenoid with a direct 12v source and it starts up right away (so i know starter and solenoid are good)

- I've connected a MM to the spade connector that attaches to the starter solenoid to see what the voltages were when turning the key to START and it first goes to .33v then jumps to 12v.

- I've connected a jumper wire from the B/W wire at the ignition switch directly to the starter solenoid and it starts 1st try.


I'm not sure if the culprit is a relay, or a wire or what's going on. What should i check next? I have NOT tried the B/Y wire at the ingition switch tho.

***NOTE***: the wire that connects to the starter solenoid on my car is B/W, but the diagram shows B/Y.

Thank you!



http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/startingdiagram_zpsa7c15bd6.jpg

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Nobody huh? :(

[army240]

How much time does it take to go from .33V to 12V on the spade connector?

It looks like a bad connection or a corrosion problem to me... Could be the clutch interlock relay that is going out... like the contact wouldn't close inside of it. It could close with no load on it (prong connector disconnected on the starter solenoid) but when you put connector on it could be not strong enough to actually close the contact.

Before it all happened, did you need to push the clutch pedal to start your car?

Let me know,

Frank

[2.5T_/<ouki]

How much time does it take to go from .33V to 12V on the spade connector?

It looks like a bad connection or a corrosion problem to me... Could be the clutch interlock relay that is going out... like the contact wouldn't close inside of it. It could close with no load on it (prong connector disconnected on the starter solenoid) but when you put connector on it could be not strong enough to actually close the contact.

Before it all happened, did you need to push the clutch pedal to start your car?

Let me know,

Frank

Hi Frank,
Thank you for your response. I did not need to press my clutch pedal as it has been bypassed.

It goes from .33 to 12v within less than a second. I have cleaned all grounds as well as the battery terminals.

I have not tried changing my clutch interlock relay yet.

[army240]

You can do a quick test and bypass your interlock relay by putting a jumper cable between terminal 3 and 5 in the relay box. Then try to start the car. If it start, two options are possible. Either you put the jumper cable permanantly in the fuse box (as your relay is already bypassed) or you can do some more tests. The other test consist of checking for 12V at terminal 1 of the interlock relay with the key in the start position. If you do have 12V, then check for proper ground at terminal 2 of the relay.

If you have 12V and a good ground at terminal 1 and 2 respectively, pretty sure it's a bad relay!

Have a good day,

Frank

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Frank I appreciate your help.

I went out to the car today and popped out to look at the relay terminals as well as the female terminals inside the relay fuse box and there isn't a female terminal for relay terminal 5 so I'm not sure how to do the jumper wire you advised.

I ended up going to the local junkyard and got the same type of relay as well as an ignition switch from a J30 (exact same as ours) and the problem is still happening.

I will jave to test for 12v at terminal one when I get home today. I will report back.

Thanks again.

NOTE: one thing I forgot to mention, is if I unplug my turbo timer harness and connect ignition switch directly to the harness connector it starts up fine every turn of the key. Here is where it gets weird tho; if I try and remote start my car like this, I still am only getting the click at the starter.


http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/B8863F09-21C1-4CF8-86E2-0DE7096CE9FD-4327-00000184A03AB136_zpsbf01f40d.jpg

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/E6B23F79-2179-45D6-A0B6-B217CC6E76FD-4327-00000184A882B437_zps3d2dd35f.jpg




UPDATE: So I removed the clutch interlock relay so i can do a volt test while someone cranked the car, and to my surprise the car still starts without the relay connect! I'm curious to know if this is because the car use to be an automatic. This is getting weird D:

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Still having problems with my car starting.

Since i was a A/T prior to the swap, should i go off of the A/T starter wiring diagram in the FSM? IF so, is it safe to say that the B/Y wire from the ignition switch is just a straight shot to my starter solenoid? Looking at the diagram, it shows that the B/Y wire goes to the "inhibitor switch" A/T shifter but since i no longer have this, I'm guessing it's just a straight shot.

Question: Would putting a jumper wire from the B/Y ignition wire straight to the starter solenoid let me know if it's a wire problem?

Thanks.



http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/ATstart_zpsab3ebb19.jpg

[e5s4y]

my car is doing the exact same thing as yours, so hopefully you figure it out soon and report back, haha. some days it starts right up, some times it takes a few turns to get it. Mine was an auto also

[Kriskouki]

Sounds to me like a bad connection or something.....

First of all, be sure that the connection at the battery terminals is well tight......I had the problem that of a lose battery terminal, which I ended up spending hours finding the problems elsewhere.....So, be sure that all the battery terminal is well tight......

Another way to figure this out is you might just want to use small wire and jump the circuit between the igintion key switch (E103 pin 1)-->stater soleniod trigger ( B/Y terminal 2)........Let's see that the starter cranks or not......And, if it does crank, meaning that the culprit is located in between that path.........

Note: everytime you work on the starter circuit, you are talking about high-ampere....So, be sure to do it with cautious.......

[2.5T_/<ouki]

my car is doing the exact same thing as yours, so hopefully you figure it out soon and report back, haha. some days it starts right up, some times it takes a few turns to get it. Mine was an auto also

Yeah man will do. Hopefully we figure this out.


Sounds to me like a bad connection or something.....

First of all, be sure that the connection at the battery terminals is well tight......I had the problem that of a lose battery terminal, which I ended up spending hours finding the problems elsewhere.....So, be sure that all the battery terminal is well tight......

Another way to figure this out is you might just want to use small wire and jump the circuit between the igintion key switch (E103 pin 1)-->stater soleniod trigger ( B/Y terminal 2)........Let's see that the starter cranks or not......And, if it does crank, meaning that the culprit is located in between that path.........

Note: everytime you work on the starter circuit, you are talking about high-ampere....So, be sure to do it with cautious.......

So when you say E103 ping 1 is this the white wire? I put a jumper wire from the B/W to starter solenoid the other day and she fired right up every time

Would this be the same as just connecting the starter solenoid directly to 12v power? I did do this and again, fired up perfectly without any issues.

Thanks

[Kriskouki]

Yeah man will do. Hopefully we figure this out.




when you say E103 ping 1 is this the white wire? I put a jumper wire from the B/W to starter solenoid the other day and she fired right up every time

Would this be the same as just connecting the starter solenoid directly to 12v power? I did do this and again, fired up perfectly without any issues.

Thanks

So....Now you re-connect all the connectors back to its orginal position......Then, start the car......And, if the problem still exists, then it is 100% that problem is located in the path between E103 pin 1 and the soleniod trigger.......Now, it's your job to put a jumper in between points A and B...to locate the culprit.......

[2.5T_/<ouki]

So....Now you re-connect all the connectors back to its orginal position......Then, start the car......And, if the problem still exists, then it is 100% that problem is located in the path between E103 pin 1 and the soleniod trigger.......Now, it's your job to put a jumper in between points A and B...to locate the culprit.......

I was asking, what color is pin 1 on E103? W, B/W, B/Y, Blue, Red, B/G?

Thanks

[shift_down]

Why not wire your starter to a switched 12v source?

If you still can't find the problem, this could he an option.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Why not wire your starter to a switched 12v source?

If you still can't find the problem, this could he an option.

Like a push start type of deal? I'm not really fond of those as you still need to put the key in to use all the accessory features so Its just adding an additional step.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

I got a chance to rent out a badass camera and decided to turn the lens on my friend and fabricator Frank Fardellhttp://www.mgmx.info/ha1.jpg


Dude for reals bro? Can it help me fix my starting issue?

GTFO lol.

[shift_down]

Lmao.

If you put a push button switch in line with the starter and battery, you won't need the key to start the car.

Battery-switch-starter

I know itis just a bandaid, but it will help you if you can't figure out the underlying problem.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Does anyon know if the ignition switch starter wire is a direct shot to the starter solenoid or does it hit the engine bay fuse box first then starter solenoid? This is on a AT to 5Spd conversion.

[lude4life13]

Just maybe?

http://zilvia.net/f/south-western-states/426692-anyone-want-let-me-use-their-sr20-starter.html

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Just maybe?

http://zilvia.net/f/south-western-states/426692-anyone-want-let-me-use-their-sr20-starter.html

Thanks for your input, it's appreciated.

I don't believe that is my problem as I have testing the power at my solenoid and its getting 12.3v while cranking.