S13 370CC Z32 .bin file needed!!!

[sentradude]

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[zurud]

what kind of engine mgmt do you have? Go to sr-20 the dash forum. In the tuning section ask them.

[sentradude]

Hey there, I've got the Calum RT. I've been all over the net without luck, Im finding all other tunes but this one :( If anyone has this please reply. I'm not going anywhere without it! Thanks!!!!

[Croustibat]

I fail to understand why you would use a Z32 MAF on a stock engine. It just is a sensor...

If you just need it to move the car not too far, just unplug the MAF enjoy the 2500rpm limited limp mode.


I dont know about that board though, but changing the MAF is a matter of uploading a new MAF VE map (sometimes called VQ map) and multiplying the K value by the supposed max HP value from the new MAF divided by the supposed max HP value from the previous MAF. Use 500 for Z32 and 290 for the standard SR20DET MAF. The Z32 VE/VQ map is pretty easy to find on the internet.

If you dont want to be bothered by all that, i suggest you pay for a tuner to do the work.

[sentradude]

^^ Thank you sir for the information. I will unplug it and get it home - only 2 miles away.

Reason I got the Z32 MAF on there is I had the MAF and intake parts left over from my B13 setup which I ran bigger injectors on and bigger turbo. So when I did the swap and wiring on my S13 I just used those parts - MAF, Intake, POP charger and filter - on my setup.

I appreciate the info, at least ill be able to get her home!

Also thank you for the additional information about the MAPS etc.. Im a total newb to tuning world but I will give it a shot! Thanks again.

PS. if anyone has this, it would still be nice if they could email it to me!

[cotbu]

I fail to understand why you would use a Z32 MAF on a stock engine. It just is a sensor...

If you just need it to move the car not too far, just unplug the MAF enjoy the 2500rpm limited limp mode.


I dont know about that board though, but changing the MAF is a matter of uploading a new MAF VE map (sometimes called VQ map) and multiplying the K value by the supposed max HP value from the new MAF divided by the supposed max HP value from the previous MAF. Use 500 for Z32 and 290 for the standard SR20DET MAF. The Z32 VE/VQ map is pretty easy to find on the internet.

If you dont want to be bothered by all that, i suggest you pay for a tuner to do the work.

I agree.
If you so happen to choose a canned tune, use it as a base and make sure the knock sensor is tuned on, the timing map is stock and use premium octane, just for insurance. Then get it tuned for your setup.

[Def]

Just unplug it? hah Sounds like a good way to wash the rings down with fuel even if it technically will "run."


If you don't know how to change the k-value and VQ map in a rom, then you REALLY need to just get a mail order tune that's plug and play.

[sentradude]

Im using TunerPro RT to make the changes. I've never done it before.. I guess ill tow the car home and try to figure out how to change the values.

[Croustibat]

Just unplug it? hah Sounds like a good way to wash the rings down with fuel even if it technically will "run."


In 6 miles ? please ... limp mode is not richer than oem WOT anyway...


sentradude > you have reached the point where you have the tool, but dont know how to use it.

Considering the kind of tool and the potential damage it can do, you are better off not touching it imho.

[Def]

In 6 miles ? please ... limp mode is not richer than oem WOT anyway...


sentradude > you have reached the point where you have the tool, but dont know how to use it.

Considering the kind of tool and the potential damage it can do, you are better off not touching it imho.

The stock no MAF "limp mode" is insanely rich. It's not even a fully fledged alpha N setup like Bosch ECUs of the era have. It's extremely basic, and insanely rich. Do you even know how impossible it is to do alpha N on a turbo setup?

I remember on my car it would barley idle on stock cams at well below 10:1 AFR (I was double checking something - never drove it like that). So yes, a few miles at low speed with washing down your bores with fuel is more than enough to cause damage.


And since we're on the subject of all the "expert advice" you seem to have - wtf does "OEM WOT" have to do with partial throttle conditions anyway?

[Croustibat]

Oh ? Still angry i asked you to stop being an ass ? You want to bash me that much ? That is not helping your case.

So lets do the basics:

1/ limp mode does exactly what it says : it allows you to move a short distance safely. Which is exactly what i suggest the OP does, and surely he has already done it.

2/ OEM WOT AFR is between 9:1 and 10:1 . so if you worry about bore wash, dont ever boot a standard SR20. Avoid subaru WRX STI too, these even go richer. In fact dont ever go WOT on a standard turbo engine if you fear about washing bores with a 10:1 AFR.

3/ nah, nothing else to say. alphaN is a problem on charged engine yes ... when they charge. You dont charge on limp mode.

The truth is you are just angry and pissed off, which is kind of childish considering how long you already had to cool. So take another chill pill. And stop trying to bash me or anything.

I am not your enemy, i always recognized your knowledge, and trying to slander me about mine is once again childish, at best. So lose that attitude already and dont try to piss me off. Because you wont like it if you succeed.