View Full Version : Potential S14 SR20DET with ebay parts problems
buckeyebushmen
02-26-2013, 10:59 AM
Hey guys, I'm looking into buying an S14 and I found one for a decent price but as I researched the mods, I became a little skeptical as to the reliability of a car with a decent amount of ebay parts. Here is a link to the car.
(hopefully i posted this in the right section)
Sr20det s14 240sx Nissan "Silvia" (http://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/3608015311.html)
And here are some parts that were sent to me through an email....
8.5 compression je pistons 86mm bore, no overbore
Eagle rods
New oem crank
Acl race bearings main and rod
New timing chain and guides
Every gasket replaced with oem gasket kit
New oem oil pump
Ngk plugs and oem oil filter
Fresh valve job, stem seals
Circuit sports rocker arm stoppers
Koyo rad
Flexalite fans
Autometer boost gauge
Greddy bov
Apexi super safc II
Isis 3871 turbo
Fever racing header (bottom mount)
Megan racing full exhaust no cats
Greddy turbo timer
Jdm blitz gt28 tuned ecu
Manual boost controller
Xtd 13lbs flywheel
F1 stage 3 clutch
Isis cold air intake
Hks shift knob
If anybody could provide any insight as to what mechanical problems may arise, or whether or not this is a good buy, I would greatly appreciate it. :bow:
Mikester
02-26-2013, 11:20 AM
The little filter at the tee-fitting is a fire hazard, it should be routed to the turbine inlet thru a catch can or direct.
There are vacuum lines & whatever running everywhere
Manual boost controller and 3871 do not belong in the same sentence, let alone on the same car
ISIS (Chinese knockoff) turbos are not proven
He's got the ISIS 3871 turbo installed w/"T28 tuned ECU" and no mention of injectors, not to mentioned an SAF-C (complete garbage) as a piggyback. This is a catastrophe waiting to happen- it is obviously not properly tuned.
ACL race bearings are more rigid than OEM Nissan bearings... The OEM SR crank is not under load. Metaphorically speaking, it is sort of a wet noodle at speed, so the bearings should not be that hard.
The pistons/rods were installed as a rebuild item at normal 86mm bore- a proper rebuild would warrant 86.5mm pistons/bore [cylinder hone]unless it was re-sleeved to 86mm, which I doubt. This also makes me wonder how much measuring was actually done before reassembly... although I'm sure an actual builder may have more experience-based comments on this one.
You have an S13 SR wired into an S14... Not uncommon at all, but however it was wired could be another huge rat's nest of issues.
At the end of it all, you probably don't know near enough about SR-swapped cars to get yourself in this deep. Which is why you posed the question in the first place.
And the price tag on this one is fucking ridiculous- I seriously LOL'd when I saw the ad ;)
BTW, my two oldest sons are 18 & 19.... So I understand you want to hop into a groovy, driftable car and to go fast... but I will tell you the same thing I tell them: Keep it simple, and don't get yourself into something you know nothing about, unless you have the time and financial resources to learn the hard way. I'm not saying to not get a 240. I'm just saying that you might be better off starting with a stock 240 for an affordable price and going from there.
Good luck to you~
--Mike
buckeyebushmen
02-26-2013, 01:14 PM
The little filter at the tee-fitting is a fire hazard, it should be routed to the turbine inlet thru a catch can or direct.
There are vacuum lines & whatever running everywhere
Manual boost controller and 3871 do not belong in the same sentence, let alone on the same car
ISIS (Chinese knockoff) turbos are not proven
He's got the ISIS 3871 turbo installed w/"T28 tuned ECU" and no mention of injectors, not to mentioned an SAF-C (complete garbage) as a piggyback. This is a catastrophe waiting to happen- it is obviously not properly tuned.
ACL race bearings are more rigid than OEM Nissan bearings... The OEM SR crank is not under load. Metaphorically speaking, it is sort of a wet noodle at speed, so the bearings should not be that hard.
The pistons/rods were installed as a rebuild item at normal 86mm bore- a proper rebuild would warrant 86.5mm pistons/bore [cylinder hone]unless it was re-sleeved to 86mm, which I doubt. This also makes me wonder how much measuring was actually done before reassembly... although I'm sure an actual builder may have more experience-based comments on this one.
You have an S13 SR wired into an S14... Not uncommon at all, but however it was wired could be another huge rat's nest of issues.
At the end of it all, you probably don't know near enough about SR-swapped cars to get yourself in this deep. Which is why you posed the question in the first place.
And the price tag on this one is fucking ridiculous- I seriously LOL'd when I saw the ad ;)
BTW, my two oldest sons are 18 & 19.... So I understand you want to hop into a groovy, driftable car and to go fast... but I will tell you the same thing I tell them: Keep it simple, and don't get yourself into something you know nothing about, unless you have the time and financial resources to learn the hard way. I'm not saying to not get a 240. I'm just saying that you might be better off starting with a stock 240 for an affordable price and going from there.
Good luck to you~
--Mike
So you definitely think this is a no-go?
I really appreciate your input and you're probably right. I should go with something stock haha. But I cant fathom the idea of putting money into a car when I can buy a used one with mods already installed. Especially ones with an SR20DET
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