Sick of my PBMs. What to upgrade to?

[LS240]

So I've had my S13 hatch for a bit over a year now and it came with PBMs, just the standard comp spec with 10k/8k springs. I've been dealing with them but I'm just tired of them. Don't get me wrong the car handles amazing so long as the road is glass smooth, but if there are any surface irregularities the handling becomes unpredictable as my tires lose contact with the road very easily. The ride on the street is kidney-bruising at times on the shitty pavement in my town. On top of all that, the spring bind makes horrendous sounds and is bad enough to cause my car to pull one direction or the other depending on which way it's bound up. Time for an upgrade.

I don't mind stiff so much but I really hate the bouncing with these coilovers so would prefer something less bouncy. The main priority though is handling so a coilover that actually provides real grip would sure be nice. I've been thinking about Fortune Auto 500s or 510s with Swift springs due to the digressive damping. I really can't find any info comparing the differences between these coils in the real world though. I would love to go for KW V3s but the lack of independent ride height adjustment is a killer. HKS Hipermax IIIs are a possibility as well. Really I'm open to any suggestions in the 2k range or less with proper damping for traction on mountain roads mostly.

The other option I suppose would be keeping the PBMs and just changing springs and dampers along with installing bearings to prevent spring bind. I see PBM has their own new springs they call SLL, which I could just buy in 8k/6k, and that along with switching to their newer pro spec dampers(if that's even a direct swap?) might be enough to provide more grip and a better ride. Anyone have experience with the newer pro spec or SLL products from PBM? Are the springs worth a damn or are Swift still a much better choice? I only mention this option as obviously it would be cheaper than a new coilover setup, but I'm not sure it would be enough of an upgrade to be worth it.

So many questions I know, I'm sorry. But I've spent a good deal of time researching and couldn't find any answers to a few specific questions like the issue of FA 500 vs 510 or whether the new PBM parts are actually a big upgrade or not. I'd appreciate any input.

Thanks for reading!

[e1_griego]

Build koni 8610 or 8611 setup.

/thread.

[deolio]

i have 500's on my miata. got them revalved and put swifts on. best coils i've ever had (previously had jic, cusco, stance, bc, zankoku). go for the 510's with the swifts and you won't regret it.

[Wake]

That says a lot coming from Deolio

[LS240]

Build koni 8610 or 8611 setup.

/thread.

I'm not opposed to the idea. Do you have a link to any decent writeups on these setups?

i have 500's on my miata. got them revalved and put swifts on. best coils i've ever had (previously had jic, cusco, stance, bc, zankoku). go for the 510's with the swifts and you won't regret it.

Have you ever felt the 510s to compare them to your 500s?

[e1_griego]

Check the archive/faq.

The thread is visible from the forum index.

[dorkidori_s13]

trade you my Circuit Sports ;) theyre almost 2 years old and I havent had a single problem with them. theyre on my daily and havent seen a single bit of track use PERIOD!

[PrimeDirective]

You could look into getting new springs and revalve. I know feal suspension will do it.

[jeremyuhh]

I had stance gr+ pro. 8/6 with helper springs in the rear. Amazing ride as a daily. The freeways I drive on to get home are horrible and the coilovers held up. They did well drifting too.

I have the PBM comps now just like you with a 10/8, it's stiff and bouncy on shitty roads. I'm used to it, I don't mind it anymore, but keep in mind these PBM comp coils were made for the track, they're designed for drifting.

If I were you, and this was my personal plan as well, is to buy the new SLL springs and try that out. I doubt PBM products will disappoint. And you would feel a difference running 8/6 after driving on 10/8

[deolio]

Have you ever felt the 510s to compare them to your 500s?

nope, but i'd only expect that they'd feel even better.

[Beemer]

apexi exv are pretty decent. There are the same as meagans. But i have no complaints.

[DJDANGER24]

SuiVax Vertex coils.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

[slideslidegnarslide]

I have super drifts and they are great. But for driving on the roads I'm telling you...

Fortune auto 510s with swift springs

Done

[Mikester]

I run HKS Hipermax Performers... Forgiving on the road, great on the track... LOVE them!

[MrSanchez925]

I'm running powertrix r/t coils.
Big company for z32s but also make s chassis products.

I've had d2s and Tein coils. And these have the best feel so far.

Comfy on the road. Rebuildable, and you can customize them to your liking. Valving, spring rate.
Plus the customer service is top notch.
They are actually holding a group by right now.

[koukimonsters13]

Stance. You just can't go wrong with them.

[moco]

Feal coilovers, best coilovers I ever had. My previous set up was PBM also and wow these are WAY better for street use and are great for the track! And the come with swift springs standard.

[fliprayzin240sx]

As far as Fortune goes, ff you drift, 500s. If you auto-x and want grip, 510s. The advantage of FAs over JDM brand is that they are valved for shittty US roads, so they are more forgiving. I loved my Topline Aragostas in Japan, felt smooth as heck. Took them thru I64 to get to VB, hit a pothole hard enough, I thought I broke my rim or ripped my strut tower off.

[slow_sr20]

I had fortunes with standard springs on my s14. I have fortunes with SWIFT on my s13. Noticeable difference with the swift. Get something with a nicer spring. It's totally worth the money. Fortunes aren't the baddest king ding-a-ling suspension out there, but they have very good customer support, and test their products in house to give you the best bang for the buck.

[xoxide]

I love my Fortune 500's. Have them on both S14. Mine are on just standard FA springs, I am going to pick up some swifts soon though.

[Renelovesnike]

Been hearing ALLOT of good news about FEAL lately, havent truly looked up any reviews or online stats on em.

but ill start my research ater class. mayB give them a look at*

[!Zar!]

OP: Just buy Swift or Hypercoil springs in 2k lbs less than what you currently have?

[drift freaq]

I'm not opposed to the idea. Do you have a link to any decent writeups on these setups?



ok look at this

Check the archive/faq.

The thread is visible from the forum index.


CHeck this and now Ground Control is now selling Koni coilover setups specifically for the 240sx its on their website. So you no longer have to go through the hassle of trying to assemble them yourself. It looks to be an 8610 setup up front not sure what the rears are.

I'm running powertrix r/t coils.
Big company for z32s but also make s chassis products.

I've had d2s and Tein coils. And these have the best feel so far.

Comfy on the road. Rebuildable, and you can customize them to your liking. Valving, spring rate.
Plus the customer service is top notch.
They are actually holding a group by right now.


Nothing against Charles or his company but I would not recommend them over Fortunes. Oh and D2's and Teins are nothing to write home about. LOL

Fortunes are not bad and pretty much close to top of the heap for lower cost affordable coilovers and quite a few of the JDM ones as well.
I would still take Koni's over all of them, though that is me. YMMV( your mileage may vary)

[va240dude]

PBM Comps are extremely stiff, so it sounds like you need a good 8/6k for daily driving. Remember that even if you change the springs on your comp coils, they are still valved for 10/8, so you're not getting the best combination. If you're looking for decent quality affordable coils, PBM pros, Fortune Auto, Stance would be the main ones I would look at.

Also, you write "if there are any surface irregularities the handling becomes unpredictable as my tires lose contact with the road very easily". Maybe you already gave your car a good check on the suspension bushings and components, but lots of 240 guys throw coils on their cars and call it a a day, and overlook many of the 20+ old worn-out factory bushings. If you haven't already, check them all, replace as needed, and get an alignment. It will make a world of difference.

[KiLLeR2001]

I've got HKS Hipermax II's with Swift springs. I need to get some track time in to really test them out. Currently on a 7/6kg setup, think I might go 8/7kg however.

[SlideOrDie831]

PBM is valved for the track. the new version coils don't seem all that bad on the street.

best bet would be FA's or Feal.

[Trinidrift3]

Pbm pro's
Fortune Auto 510's
Dmax

[fliprayzin240sx]

I wish I can find a set of brand spanking new Silkroads RM8...I fucking loved those coilovers...

[zooopreme]

Where are some of you non-510 owners coming from with your suggestions? Fortune Auto 510's are suggested to be for track use only. In terms of application and intention, they are the equivalent to Comp's which OP has.

So if the complaint was the excessive bouncing in the first place because of shitty roads, steering him towards 510's is a terrible idea.

500's on the other hand are a different story. If you've got money for Hipermax's go for it. May I also suggest Zeal Function XS since they are around the same price range. I believe that Zeal's are rebuildable in the US too.

I own a set of PBM Pro's and I used to own 500's with Swifts. Pro's are fine but my 500's were good. I made the switch solely for height adjustability. Looking back, I wish I hadn't.

[deolio]

^you have a good point. i suggested 510's because i thought they came with swifts, but now i see that you can get 500's with the swifts too. for street, 500 w/swift is the way to go.

[ManoNegra]

May I also suggest Zeal Function XS since they are around the same price range. I believe that Zeal's are rebuildable in the US too.


Had these for a while and they're ok.
For the money I'd would rather piece together a Koni or Bilstein set up.

Also, imo it's useless to say flavor X is better than flavor Y without properly analyzing and setting up the suspension of a car.

My advice - buy suspension from companies that design and make suspension components. Stay away from Chinese/Taiwanese re-branders.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Where are some of you non-510 owners coming from with your suggestions? Fortune Auto 510's are suggested to be for track use only. In terms of application and intention, they are the equivalent to Comp's which OP has.

So if the complaint was the excessive bouncing in the first place because of shitty roads, steering him towards 510's is a terrible idea.

500's on the other hand are a different story. If you've got money for Hipermax's go for it. May I also suggest Zeal Function XS since they are around the same price range. I believe that Zeal's are rebuildable in the US too.

I own a set of PBM Pro's and I used to own 500's with Swifts. Pro's are fine but my 500's were good. I made the switch solely for height adjustability. Looking back, I wish I hadn't.

The way it explained to me is that 510s are designed and valved to keep the tires to the ground. Not bouncy but the ultra digressive valving keeps it planted around corners and hitting dips.

[Corbic]

^you have a good point. i suggested 510's because i thought they came with swifts, but now i see that you can get 500's with the swifts too. for street, 500 w/swift is the way to go.

What is so great about swifts? i hear people in the import world rave about them, but outside of Hondas and 240s nobody ever seems to care.

[Nismo-kouki]

Where are some of you non-510 owners coming from with your suggestions? Fortune Auto 510's are suggested to be for track use only. In terms of application and intention, they are the equivalent to Comp's which OP has.

So if the complaint was the excessive bouncing in the first place because of shitty roads, steering him towards 510's is a terrible idea.

500's on the other hand are a different story. If you've got money for Hipermax's go for it. May I also suggest Zeal Function XS since they are around the same price range. I believe that Zeal's are rebuildable in the US too.

I own a set of PBM Pro's and I used to own 500's with Swifts. Pro's are fine but my 500's were good. I made the switch solely for height adjustability. Looking back, I wish I hadn't.

I have first gen 510's with swift springs and they are amazing def worth the money. Everyone loves the way my car rides. I don't think my car is near as bouncy/harsh as my buddies who has pbm pros.

[deolio]

What is so great about swifts? i hear people in the import world rave about them, but outside of Hondas and 240s nobody ever seems to care.

probably because outside of the honda/240 world coilovers actually come with good springs lol.

they're linear and make the car very predictable. i think everyone always rave about them because they're always amazed by just how much of a difference such a seemingly small component can make to your handling. i know my coils had a night and day difference. i absolutely hated the fortunes with stock valving/springs and thought they were the worst shit ever, but when i put the swifts on they instantly became my favorite.

[dorkidori_s13]

when you start getting into the higher priced coilovers from HKS, Greddy, JIC, BuddyClub, etc etc...the springs the companies use on the coilovers are much higher quality than entry level coilovers like Fortune, Megan etc etc. Swift springs are an affordable upgrade to basic coilovers that help give you the feel and spring reaction of higher priced units.

my JIC FL-A2s, FLT-ARs and BuddyClub RacingSpec coilovers had AWESOME springs on them. all 3 sets were very predictable, very streetable and actually worked for various types of motorsports outside of drifting. but keep in mind that all 3 coilover setups were $1800-$2100 and you get what you pay for in the car parts world

[Guitar Nut]

to the op. You can put the ssl springs on your comp's but you need the hardware to convert it, which PBM sells as well. Feal is good, talk to Odi. His coils come with swift springs. You can try Megan street's with swift springs also if you don't want to spend as much. Also I think Odi can re-valve and trow on different springs to your current coils if you dont want to buy another set of coils. PBM should be able to do the same. Either way, everyone has their own likes/dislikes about everything so try some different set ups out before making your decision.

[Corbic]

when you start getting into the higher priced coilovers from HKS, Greddy, JIC, BuddyClub, etc etc...the springs the companies use on the coilovers are much higher quality than entry level coilovers like Fortune, Megan etc etc. Swift springs are an affordable upgrade to basic coilovers that help give you the feel and spring reaction of higher priced units.

my JIC FL-A2s, FLT-ARs and BuddyClub RacingSpec coilovers had AWESOME springs on them. all 3 sets were very predictable, very streetable and actually worked for various types of motorsports outside of drifting. but keep in mind that all 3 coilover setups were $1800-$2100 and you get what you pay for in the car parts world


Honestly, I generally consider all the JDM coil-overs to be inferior to the more traditional units like Steada, Eibach, Bilstein, H&R, and Koni. The only benefit they seem to offer is they come as a "complete package" and you can slam your car on them.

[Matej]

OP: Just buy Swift or Hypercoil springs in 2k lbs less than what you currently have?
This would be the most cost-effective solution.

[dorkidori_s13]

Honestly, I generally consider all the JDM coil-overs to be inferior to the more traditional units like Steada, Eibach, Bilstein, H&R, and Koni. The only benefit they seem to offer is they come as a "complete package" and you can slam your car on them.

JIC and BuddyClub are 2 traditional units. The Japanese have been producing coilovers for a long time. Maybe not as long as Bilstein or Koni, but a lot of major JDM brands have been in the suspension game for over 20 years now (some peaking over 30 years).

And seriously, what does ANY of this have to do with spring rates/types that we were talking about above. lol Corbic, I <3 you, I really do, but man you come outta left field sometimes hahahah

[e1_griego]

ok look at this




CHeck this and now Ground Control is now selling Koni coilover setups specifically for the 240sx its on their website. So you no longer have to go through the hassle of trying to assemble them yourself. It looks to be an 8610 setup up front not sure what the rears are.






The price is for yellows all around but you can upgrade to 8610s in the front for like $100 more.

You can spec your springrate, but they won't want to go too far out of bounds of what a yellow can handle in the back.

I still think you can build it better by piecing it together but to each their own.

[Tempo]

That sounds horrible OP, but too stiff could also be caused by something else. Did you set any preload on the springs ?

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G

[LS240]

Thank you all for the wealth of replies and info. Sorry for taking so long to respond. I've had a full day.

Check the archive/faq.

The thread is visible from the forum index.

Thank you. I read through it and learned a ton about the setup and it is very attractive

I had stance gr+ pro. 8/6 with helper springs in the rear. Amazing ride as a daily. The freeways I drive on to get home are horrible and the coilovers held up. They did well drifting too.

I have the PBM comps now just like you with a 10/8, it's stiff and bouncy on shitty roads. I'm used to it, I don't mind it anymore, but keep in mind these PBM comp coils were made for the track, they're designed for drifting.

If I were you, and this was my personal plan as well, is to buy the new SLL springs and try that out. I doubt PBM products will disappoint. And you would feel a difference running 8/6 after driving on 10/8

I may try the SLLs as a sort of stopgap measure. It's a pretty cheap upgrade so if it isn't to my taste I'm not out a ton.

ok look at this

CHeck this and now Ground Control is now selling Koni coilover setups specifically for the 240sx its on their website. So you no longer have to go through the hassle of trying to assemble them yourself. It looks to be an 8610 setup up front not sure what the rears are.

Nothing against Charles or his company but I would not recommend them over Fortunes. Oh and D2's and Teins are nothing to write home about. LOL

Fortunes are not bad and pretty much close to top of the heap for lower cost affordable coilovers and quite a few of the JDM ones as well.
I would still take Koni's over all of them, though that is me. YMMV( your mileage may vary)

I just checked GC's website and will do further research on their setup.

PBM Comps are extremely stiff, so it sounds like you need a good 8/6k for daily driving. Remember that even if you change the springs on your comp coils, they are still valved for 10/8, so you're not getting the best combination. If you're looking for decent quality affordable coils, PBM pros, Fortune Auto, Stance would be the main ones I would look at.

Also, you write "if there are any surface irregularities the handling becomes unpredictable as my tires lose contact with the road very easily". Maybe you already gave your car a good check on the suspension bushings and components, but lots of 240 guys throw coils on their cars and call it a a day, and overlook many of the 20+ old worn-out factory bushings. If you haven't already, check them all, replace as needed, and get an alignment. It will make a world of difference.

So far the car also has PBM RUCAs, tension rods, and traction rods. Still on stock LCAs front and rear but the bushings appear to be in good shape. I would definitely like to at least replace them with poly bushings along with solid subframe bushings at some point though. I did have the car aligned professionally as I was pretty much forced to. The previous owner installed the coils and suspension pieces but didn't do even a good eyeball job aligning it all. Ride height was off by nearly an inch from side to side, positive camber on one wheel with massive negative on the other side, etc. It was an evil handling mess when I bought it, but the alignment worked wonders on the handling. There aren't any shops near me that can corner weight though which is a bummer.

The handling problems now I really feel are mostly caused by lack of tire contact with the road. This suspension is just too damn stiff. I will also admit some fault of my own as the car sits pretty low, and I don't have anything to correct roll center yet. And I know it doesn't do wonders to the camber curve either. I'm thinking of buying a set of drop knuckles once I learn a bit more about the various brands available, along with the aforementioned solid subframe spacers to improve the geometry.

Where are some of you non-510 owners coming from with your suggestions? Fortune Auto 510's are suggested to be for track use only. In terms of application and intention, they are the equivalent to Comp's which OP has.

So if the complaint was the excessive bouncing in the first place because of shitty roads, steering him towards 510's is a terrible idea.

500's on the other hand are a different story. If you've got money for Hipermax's go for it. May I also suggest Zeal Function XS since they are around the same price range. I believe that Zeal's are rebuildable in the US too.

I own a set of PBM Pro's and I used to own 500's with Swifts. Pro's are fine but my 500's were good. I made the switch solely for height adjustability. Looking back, I wish I hadn't.

The way it explained to me is that 510s are designed and valved to keep the tires to the ground. Not bouncy but the ultra digressive valving keeps it planted around corners and hitting dips.

I still can't find a consensus on 500 vs 510 lol. I wish I could find someone who's used both to compare them directly.

The price is for yellows all around but you can upgrade to 8610s in the front for like $100 more.

You can spec your springrate, but they won't want to go too far out of bounds of what a yellow can handle in the back.

I still think you can build it better by piecing it together but to each their own.

I couldn't find it on a quick search of their product page, but can I upgrade to 8610s in the rear as well with the GC kit?

That sounds horrible OP, but too stiff could also be caused by something else. Did you set any preload on the springs ?

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G

No preload on the springs. I let the suspension go to full droop then just tightened the collars till there was no slack but no tension on the springs. I believe that's the correct way to do it? In addition to the alignment issues I wrote about previously, the former owner also had a ton of preload dialed in.

Thanks again everyone. I feel I'm closer to a decision now. I'm leaning towards a Koni setup but still may go with one of the Fortune 5xx series. I may cheap out for now and try Swifts or SLLs on the current setup but I don't think I'll ever be truly happy with the PBMs. I'm no suspension guru or even a terribly experienced driver, but I can tell shitty damping when I feel it.

[MrChow]

No preload on the springs. I let the suspension go to full droop then just tightened the collars till there was no slack but no tension on the springs. I believe that's the correct way to do it? In addition to the alignment issues I wrote about previously, the former owner also had a ton of preload dialed in.

I just got to this thread read the main points but here is my quick thoughts about all of this.

Ugh.. Here do this please with your preload. Add about 5mm of load drive it get a feel of it. Then play take it out again see what the different is. I'm not gonna sit and type it all up but go add 5mm and you will feel a different. That's probably your other problem of "tires lose contact."
This is one of my biggest point when help people setting up there coils. Is play with it. Don't ask for "what's the best setting" everyone has there own way of driving and style to everything. So best way is to learn first hand. Don't worry about coils just yet IMO. PDM are decent where you can go learn about how to set your car up. There's more I could type but just go do that for now. Also drive it at full soft at 1st then slowly add in the stiffness by 2 clicks.

Also if you can get simple eye on your alignment so it's straight get that done.

[PoorMans180SX]

I may try the SLLs as a sort of stopgap measure. It's a pretty cheap upgrade so if it isn't to my taste I'm not out a ton.



I think some of these in 8/6 and a revalve from FEAL will have you loving the coils again, at half the cost of buying new. :2c:

[Perfect Balance]

Whats with all the people saying that "PBM's are valved for the track". They're not. They're just valved bad, its just on the track you don't feel it because they're smooth. Any coilover rides good on a surface without bumps, thats the whole point of a better damper, so when they're on bumps, the car still sticks.

This is the main problem with these kinds of threads, theyre just full of people saying "My D2's ride goood". No they don't. They're the bottom of the barrel, cheap pos coilovers, one step above $600 ISIS coilovers.


Back on topic, Fortune Auto is pretty much the best thing you're going to get for the money. A Koni setup would probably be the next best thing, but I don't know how concerned you are with ride height, but I know you're not going to be able to go even kind of low (I'm talking like 2 inches of wheel gap still) without a full custom setup with shorter shocks.

[towlie]

If you're building konis/gc ride height should be the last thing on your mind...

[SlideOrDie831]

most on this forum only care about ride height. not all but most. no point in getting good dampers if your slammed to the ground.

anyone run on the new valved stances?

[DialedLife]

I was considering PBMs for my first coilover choice. My budget is between 900-1100.

Why is it bad to just run the 8k/6k springs on pbms?

[zooopreme]

I was considering PBMs for my first coilover choice. My budget is between 900-1100.

Why is it bad to just run the 8k/6k springs on pbms?

Because when you switch up spring rates, you're supposed to revalve the dampers. Especially with an excess of 1.5 kg. But irregardless, we still have people saying they're absolute crap.

I think they're okay and I didn't get mine revalved when I tried out 8/6 springs on mine. Keyword is okay. I wish I hadn't sold my Fortunes with Swifts for these.

Mind you, I've tried out a large variety of coilovers (eBay to HKS) on my car with same height/alignment settings with new bushings (except for sway bars) all around.

[DialedLife]

Because when you switch up spring rates, you're supposed to revalve the dampers. Especially with an excess of 1.5 kg. But irregardless, we still have people saying they're absolute crap.

I think they're okay and I didn't get mine revalved when I tried out 8/6 springs on mine. Keyword is okay. I wish I hadn't sold my Fortunes with Swifts for these.

Mind you, I've tried out a large variety of coilovers (eBay to HKS) on my car with same height/alignment settings with new bushings (except for sway bars) all around.

Thank you for answering! So, i understand under dampening causes bouncyness. What about over dampening?

[zooopreme]

I'm sorry, but what? Are you referring to what setting you turn the dampening knob to?

Full soft/full hard is going to give you "bounce" on street roads. A common misunderstanding for the reason why there's the option for dampening adjustment is so that full soft is going to make the ride "comfortable" and full stiff will make your car ride handle like a race car on street roads. The facts are that you need to adjust the dampening settings to suit the springs that are for the car. They are a handling adjustment, not a comfort adjustment.

But to close, I will say a 8/6 kg combo is a bit much for street roads and daily driving. So unless you want a change in ride quality, you need to look more into spring rates and how a damper needs to be in tune with those softer spring rates.

[PoorMans180SX]

It's "damping" guys, not "dampening" haha.

[DialedLife]

I'm sorry, but what? Are you referring to what setting you turn the dampening knob to?
.

I understand what you're saying. What I was asking was basically how would a strut valved for like 500lb springs handle 100lb springs? Hypothetical question!

It's "damping" guys, not "dampening" haha.

Lol whoops :x

[Corbic]

It's "damping" guys, not "dampening" haha.

We don't take kindly to you'll folk around here with all that fancy talk...

[zooopreme]

It's "damping" guys, not "dampening" haha.

Right. My badness.

[dorkidori_s13]

We don't take kindly to you'll folk around here with all that fancy talk...

LMFAO! :kiss:

[Dori90]

how did you set your preload? the spring should be really loose... and yes the pros are much better.. if you ask me i think they are even better than stance nation.. check your preload and if you want change the spring rate to 8 and 6k

[blo0d]

the spring should be really loose? thats the opposite of what the 5mm of preload guy was saying... as usual, zilvia just overwhelms with information with no consensus on a solution!

its like the govt in hur! lol

[SlideOrDie831]

you need to put 5mm of load on your spring by raising the spring perch 5mm. it's a simple job that seems hard but isn't.

[zooopreme]

how did you set your preload? the spring should be really loose... and yes the pros are much better.. if you ask me i think they are even better than stance nation.. check your preload and if you want change the spring rate to 8 and 6k

To poor kid at home reading this, please don't listen to this guy's post. At all.

Preload should be set at 0 (spring sits snug and could be hand rotated with resistance) unless the manufacturer says to add a bit of preload like Fortunes. If I recall correctly, the springs were to be preloaded 1/8 of an inch (from original spring length) to alleviate the spring "thump/pop" that they usually have. That is if you don't have those thrust bearings. Don't quote me. If you have Fortunes, refer to the instruction packet. It has the exact amount that is required.

And for those suggesting 5mm, I've never heard of that. That's such a small amount of preload that you may as well not touch it at all.

EDIT: 1/8 is ~4mm lol. My 5mm statement could be incorrect if the suggested preload is to be at 1/8.

[Perfect Balance]

To poor kid at home reading this, please don't listen to this guy's post. At all.

Preload should be set at 0 (spring sits snug and could be hand rotated with resistance) unless the manufacturer says to add a bit of preload like Fortunes. If I recall correctly, the springs were to be preloaded 1/8 of an inch (from original spring length) to alleviate the spring "thump/pop" that they usually have. That is if you don't have those thrust bearings. Don't quote me. If you have Fortunes, refer to the instruction packet. It has the exact amount that is required.

And for those suggesting 5mm, I've never heard of that. That's such a small amount of preload that you may as well not touch it at all.

Wait, so 5mm is "such a small amount of preload", but 1/8 inch (4mm) isn't a small amount?

[zooopreme]

Wait, so 5mm is "such a small amount of preload", but 1/8 inch (4mm) isn't a small amount?

Yeah, sorry, that came out all kinds of wrong, haha. A couple of mins after I replied, I realized 1/8 is less than 5mm and didn't bother to correct my statements. But hopefully, to the person reading this thread, they would read every posts and catch that.

I didn't have the instruction sheet/packet in front of me so I threw out 1/8, which could be wrong or right. I'm not positive of how much preload I added when I had Fortunes but I remember that the rears and fronts were supposed to be preloaded at different settings. And if it is in fact 1/8, then I will gladly correct myself and say you need no more than ~4mm or 1/8 of preload. And 5mm would be a wee bit much.

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The way it explained to me is that 510s are designed and valved to keep the tires to the ground. Not bouncy but the ultra digressive valving keeps it planted around corners and hitting dips.

Exactly correct. The 510's basically handle larger bumps better. They also have lots of low speed force. This basically offers better control of driver inputs. 510's are specifically designed for track cars that are hitting curbing at very high speeds and subsequently absorbing that large impact event, keeping the car planted and settled.

If its comfort that you are after 500's with Swift 7k/6k springs are the way to go.

Yeah, sorry, that came out all kinds of wrong, haha. A couple of mins after I replied, I realized 1/8 is less than 5mm and didn't bother to correct my statements. But hopefully, to the person reading this thread, they would read every posts and catch that.

I didn't have the instruction sheet/packet in front of me so I threw out 1/8, which could be wrong or right. I'm not positive of how much preload I added when I had Fortunes but I remember that the rears and fronts were supposed to be preloaded at different settings. And if it is in fact 1/8, then I will gladly correct myself and say you need no more than ~4mm or 1/8 of preload. And 5mm would be a wee bit much.

To clarify pre-load on our shocks. We recommend 1/4 up front and 1/8 in the rear. However if you are running thrust bearings then 1/8 of pre-load is just fine!

[unwtdhero]

Its all in the preload,most of my friends run pbm and have them set to sag so when under pressure they get grip. Any coilover set up can be bouncy, just adjust one corner to your liking then measure and match the rest

[e5s4y]

my pbm pros felt like SHIT until i added some preload to them. overly bouncy and stiff no matter what i did. added some preload, and its like a complete 180

[om3ga]

Put 6/6 springs on them or do 8/6 or something, add helper springs in the rear and you will be creaming.

[MrChow]

my pbm pros felt like SHIT until i added some preload to them. overly bouncy and stiff no matter what i did. added some preload, and its like a complete 180

Hmmm.. How much did you add? You understand how to measures out preload?
Did you do the things with the rebound that I said?