SR redtop cranks, doesn't start.

[Aurimas]

ISSUE SOLVED - SOLUTION POSTED

Hello.


Searched this issue, could not find a valid answer. You may take your flamethrowers out.

What happened: yesterday, my car was working all fine and had it's usual issues, but was running and starting. I installed new OCC and new air filter so it was running really nice. I went to my friends house, shut the car off, started it again to show how it was running. After a good minute, the car just shut itself off. Fuel pump won't prime, reset the fuse and battery, started up all good and nice. Then I and my friend decided to put on my new exhaust on the car, sounded nice, scraped, and had to take it off. Well, I was driving home and the car just shut right off when I let it idle at a red light :bash:. Pushed the car to the side, reset the fuse and the battery again, after few times off doing that it finally started up and I drove away... *drumroll*200 feet and it happened again (not sure if in gear or neutral, I just don't think about shifting). And at that right moment a cop pulls over behind me. My cojones went up into my body... After resetting the battery, and talking to the cop for few minutes, I decided to try starting the car again. I told the cop if it starts up, I am gonna drive away. So surprisingly, the cunt finally decided to start up and drive me all the way back home. I parked the car, and decided to try to start it up. NOPE. Wouldn't start and hasn't started since. It cranks until the battery craps out, but doesn't seem to be firing. In the video posted below, it tried to catch up once, but failed.

1991 240sx SE hatch.
SR20DET Redtop
Apexi head gasket.
Tomei Expreme exhaust crackafold (welding it soon).
Still has a cat.
Godspeed T25.
eBay BOV (venting to atmosphere, recirculating soon.)
GReddy OCC (hose going from crankcase to the T, from T to the OCC, and another hose from OCC recirculated to intake).
Vatozone "Spectre" air filter.
Battery relocated in the back.
All the fluids are perfect. Radiator topped off, oil is good. Never ran on empty gas tank.
There is fuel in the lines and I can hear fuel pump priming.
Wiring harness: f*cked beyond belief, would paste pics, but that's just too cruel to see. Getting a new harness as soon as I get the car running and take it to the shop.

Today, I installed a new Durablast fuel filter from '90-'96 300ZX TT. Cleaned up battery terminals, redid the wires, tightened everything how it's supposed to be.
My friend said my timing might be off by a bit, but it has been this way and the car was still going, didn't have time to adjust it.
Spark plugs are only 2 months old, but I already have another set. Will put the new spark plugs in Tuesday while redoing timing.
I will borrow my friends ignitor chip and his coilpacks to rule these out, but it won't be until Tuesday ;( .
What could cause this? Could the cylinders be flooded? I tried pumping the gas, holding the pedal down, nothing. Bad alternator? Never got a battery light on the dash. Tried starting the car without MAF, nothing. I will later on try starting it with fuel injectors unplugged in case it's flooded.

Here are the videos:


SR20DET Fuel pump primed. Won't start. - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuO4DMBDhyk)

Jumpstart:

Attempt to jumpstart SR20DET - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmrVW7_YhOk)

Thank you.

[Aurimas]

Come on, anyone? This car is killing me faster than smoking...

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Have you looked at the coil pack ground and all other grounds at all? Check your under dash harness, It's behind the glove box.

pull out 1 coil pack at a time and put an old spark plug inside the coil pack and have someone crank it while you put the tip of the plug on something metal and see if it sparks.

[ultimateirving]

Being that ur harness is hacked up.. could be a wiring issue intermittingly shorting out. Also if ur car is lower than stock check the wire bundle in the fender well. Also i tell everyone having stall/starting issues to do a vacuum leak/boost leak test. It makes a difference

[Aurimas]

Being that ur harness is hacked up.. could be a wiring issue intermittingly shorting out. Also if ur car is lower than stock check the wire bundle in the fender well. Also i tell everyone having stall/starting issues to do a vacuum leak/boost leak test. It makes a difference

Can't be a vacuum or boost leak. The car would just die randomly. If it was a leak it would sputter at least, but I will double check everything today. Is it worth pulling the sparks out and putting a syringe in to see if the cylinders are flooded?

My best bet is on the wiring, just don't know where to start.

[SlideOrDie831]

vacuum leak or not it will still fire. you got fuel but did you check for spark?

it's most likely the wiring. rule out the small things and check for blown popped fuses and bad grounds.

[Aurimas]

vacuum leak or not it will still fire. you got fuel but did you check for spark?

it's most likely the wiring. rule out the small things and check for blown popped fuses and bad grounds.

Finally got the car started today, and it died again. Installed new spark plugs, old ones seemed to be in good shape too.

I am uploading the videos now. You will see how everything is. It seems to me that fuel pump primes, but it cuts off later.

[Aurimas]

New videos! New sparks plugs, new fuel filter. Old spark plugs were still good (IMO).

SR20DET Finally started and died randomly again. - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zX6gPDKT1xE)
Started, let they key go and died. - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voDt9WWYChw)

[wangan_cruiser]

Did u try to pull codes from ecu?

[wangan_cruiser]

Check fuel pressure

[Aurimas]

Did u try to pull codes from ecu?
No, not yet. Today the car is gonna get towed and whole wiring will be redone. Fuel pump will be changed if it is bad.
Check fuel pressure
Don't have tools, but I can put in the key and pressure relieves from the tank.

[Aurimas]

ISSUE SOLVED:


Well, after getting screwed by a shop and not having the car for two months, I and my buddy have found the problem. Here is the solution. I took it from another thread to help another person out.

I had same exact problem.

Car was down for 2 months and shop was not able to figure out what was wrong with it.

30 mins and a buddy with multimeter - car is running.

Now, the injectors share one 12V wire. My injectors were getting 9V.
All ground perfect.
That wire might be broken for you (that's how it is on mine).

What we did was just run a hot wire from a battery to the injector to rule it out, and sure it started. Now if this is your case too, run a hot wire from the fuse box to one of the injectors and just splice it in. This is half assing, but it works until you get a new harness.

If you got any questions, just shoot me a PM.

[powermymotor]

damn 2 months is a long time.. my car right now doesnt start n its been 2 weeks..

[cotbu]

damn 2 months is a long time.. my car right now doesnt start n its been 2 weeks..
You fail to comprehend! Isolate, pinpoint problem and repair. Not everyone will have the same diagnosis , you expect him to fix his shit and yours just because you posted in his/her thread?
Isolate or try too locate the source of the problem.(electrical, fuel, air, spark,etc) pinpoint(fowled sparkplugs) repair(adjust afr/change plugs):squintd:

[203692]

i jst finished my swap and my car won't start. it sounds a lot like ur problem i'll try what u did and see if it helps. Here is whats up with mine if anyone else has any input.

so i jst finished my sr20det redtop swap into my s13 and it will turn over but will not start.

I'm a little puzzled on this because my timing is correct, i have spark, and i have fuel. My fuel setup is a walbro 255 besides that and an aftermarket intake and exhaust its pretty stock.

I noticed when i pull the fuel pump fuse after trying to start it as the remaining fuel gets used up from the lines it starts to combust a small amount and u can hear a few puffs coming out of the exhaust. The same thing happens when u first put the fuse back in untill the lines r full of fuel again.
This makes me think that the motor is getting flooded.

I replaced the fpr and that didn't help at all.

My ecu also stuck with a red light on. It then came out of that mode and started acting normal. i ran diagnostic codes and it ran code 55. Now it is back into the mode with the red light on and won't even go into diagnostic mode.

So idk if its my ECU or what it is i jst need to get my car running ASAP and any help will be greatly apreciated thanks.

[Aurimas]

i jst finished my swap and my car won't start. it sounds a lot like ur problem i'll try what u did and see if it helps. Here is whats up with mine if anyone else has any input.

so i jst finished my sr20det redtop swap into my s13 and it will turn over but will not start.

I'm a little puzzled on this because my timing is correct, i have spark, and i have fuel. My fuel setup is a walbro 255 besides that and an aftermarket intake and exhaust its pretty stock.

I noticed when i pull the fuel pump fuse after trying to start it as the remaining fuel gets used up from the lines it starts to combust a small amount and u can hear a few puffs coming out of the exhaust. The same thing happens when u first put the fuse back in untill the lines r full of fuel again.
This makes me think that the motor is getting flooded.

I replaced the fpr and that didn't help at all.

My ecu also stuck with a red light on. It then came out of that mode and started acting normal. i ran diagnostic codes and it ran code 55. Now it is back into the mode with the red light on and won't even go into diagnostic mode.

So idk if its my ECU or what it is i jst need to get my car running ASAP and any help will be greatly apreciated thanks.

Confirm that you are getting fuel. See how many volts the injectors are getting. See the spray pattern. Make sure the engine is timed properly. Check your compression. Plug the MAF in. Plug TPS in. Make sure everything is hooked up, every vacuum line.

[203692]

i tried all of that already

[Howard Smith]

Are you sure you don't have the fuel lines reversed? the line coming from the tank ( with filter on it) goes to the rail, the one returning to the tank goes on the output of the FPR

[Slows14kouki]

I am going through the same shit with my 98 auto to manual swap sr20
Previous owners were pretty much idiots, Wiring harness is all jacked up n has been sitting around for 2 weeks at my bros place.

same issues with my fuel pump not priming, no power to ecu

The number one answer should be to check for volts from your ignition switch, one of their weaknesses.

That solved my fuel pump problem n power to ecu but now its spark or either i have my fuel lines reversed from when i checked my fuel pump to see if it was operating .

and really all this leads electrical

Check volts, grounds, continuity and please have a decent multimeter
sensors, relays, fuses.. GL for new harness..hope i get mines up and running will do the same