New flca to hit the market soon

[Bink Industries]

so im finally willing to leak these photos of a product i have been doin R&D on for many months.

i will be testing these at the track this weekend (with a swaybar that will clear MAJOR angle and bolt up in the stock location......soon to come with pics on that)

just want some feed back on what you guys think

not going to give away to many details but I will say this.....

This is the most advanced FLCA to hit the market for 240sx

It will clear more angle than ANY of the competition currently on the market

MUCH stronger than stock

Lighter than stock

MADE IN THE USA- AND USING ALL USA MADE ROD ENDS
(unlike most of the popular brands that are going to china)

price will be around $900
.................................................. .................................................. .........

please let me know what you guys think and feel free to ask me any questions about this item.

[KiLLeR2001]

brb copying design and sending to China now...

[slydin240sx]

Looks great, but $900? Um fuck.

[Chris28]

So I guess all caster adjustment will be done through aftermarket top hats?

[FaLKoN240]

Looks good.

[Bink Industries]

the caster is still adjusted from the control arm.

[towlie]

Those look cool. But idk about $900 cool

[Croustibat]

This is by far NOT the most advanced FLCA on the market, and if i was willing to spend that kind of money, i would add 300$ to get a pair of adjustable knuckes from gktech /tdp, along with various other parts.

That and advertising without a trading account may get you in trouble.

edit:
this is from TDP and the full set is 1200$ if memory serves.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/429454_446187182108675_1349558569_n.jpg

[lewisfk]

^^ Thanks for the heads up, never heard of this company!

[CleanAndLegit]

FYI these two cannot be used in fd

[marks14]

Why can't OP's LCAs be used in fd? The pickup points are still in the same spot.

[Chris28]

the caster is still adjusted from the control arm.

Not with your design.

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6988/lcav.jpg

As you extend the "tension rod" heim to adjust caster, you change the distance between the subframe and tension rod bracket. Since this distance is fixed, all you're doing is putting pressure on the subrame and tension rod bracket. In my MSPaint picture, the green line is the "correct" distance between the two points. As you extend the rod end along the orange arrow, you change the physical distance between the two points. The purple line is the new distance, and when you rotate the LCA around the subframe rod end to "adjust" caster, the distance is incorrect and you're stressing the subframe and tension rod bracket.

The tension rod needs to pivot on the LCA or the angle at which it mounts to the tension rod bracket needs to be adjustable, like the TDP kit.

[Bink Industries]

note the shims on the tension rod side!

i have already bolted this to the car adjusted from stock to 15 degrees of caster.
i wouldnt build something unless i could beat out the competion.

and FYI just because the gktech /tdp stuff looks like robocop doesnt mean anything. I dont have time to explain to you guys 6 months of research and a group of some of the nations best fabricators looking into every aspect of this part.

oh and its FD compliant :)

[new2sr20]

300 shipped u say??

[Bink Industries]

the $900 is set as i would rather overprice then underprice this early. but it will more then likley not be even close to that much if i can get my manufaturing cost down (in the USA).

[Croustibat]

and FYI just because the gktech /tdp stuff looks like robocop doesnt mean anything. I dont have time to explain to you guys 6 months of research and a group of some of the nations best fabricators looking into every aspect of this part.



Yes, of course. They do, however. Your product is still way overpriced for what it is, and is still not better than the competition in any way you could explain.

And you still have not paid an advertisement membership either.

BTW i cant remember if gktech or tdp announced to be working on a FD legal kit (the whole one again, not just 900$ LCAs)

[oni jake]

I dont have time to explain to you guys 6 months of research and a group of some of the nations best fabricators looking into every aspect of this part.

Yo man, why would I want to buy anything from you with statements like that. I'm curious to know the justification for $900, I'm sure others are as well. What makes your product superior to GKtech?

Not hating, I legitimately want to be schooled.

[new2sr20]

The justification for the cost is more then likely that the amount it costs him to have them made is high. If the cost is 300 to have them made, then hes gonna ask 900 for them to make some decent money back.

[Croustibat]

Yo man, why would I want to buy anything from you with statements like that. I'm curious to know the justification for $900, I'm sure others are as well. What makes your product superior to GKtech?

Not hating, I legitimately want to be schooled.

Because the best fabricators in the world (they dont have names though) spent 6 months designing them, of course :keke:

Seriously though, material price is high, and the design looks good. But the OP cant compete with tdp/gktech pricewise for that very reason.

That and they already have their products out. They also have released their testing results and are nice to the community, which means they also win on the communication domain.

I do believe the OPs LCAs would have a chance... if they did hit the market a year and a half sooner. Now, it is going to be quite tough, there already are high quality alternatives.

[kewilso3]

Where did you find a tapered shank to fit s13 and s14 taper (or custom?)? Will you offer both s13 and s14 versions? Will you offer different length shanks to adjust roll center? How much does caster change with each shim? What is the adjustment range for the length of the arm? Will you be making a swaybar to take advantage of the extra wheel clearance provided by this design? thanks.

[Bink Industries]

Where did you find a tapered shank to fit s13 and s14 taper (or custom?)? Will you offer both s13 and s14 versions? Will you offer different length shanks to adjust roll center? How much does caster change with each shim? What is the adjustment range for the length of the arm? Will you be making a swaybar to take advantage of the extra wheel clearance provided by this design? thanks.
as for the tapered shank i bought something close and machined it in house to fit but i have worked with a US based company that will make them for me and yes I will have s13 and s14 avalible.

the shank length that is on there is pretty long already. longer then most of the competion. so i wasnt really planing on it but my ears are always open to what you guys want to see in a product. how much roll center adjustment would you want? Keep in mind this was designed with a drop spindle knuckle in mind. i will be working on that in the next few months :)

you are able to rotate the rod end one half turn with out moving the shims around. turn it another half turn in the same direction and you will have to swap 1 shim over other wise it will bind. the amount of caster change one half turn on the rod end will get you depends on your ride height. rally car?....less movement VIP car? more movement per turn on the rod end.

i did not design it with a whole lot of track width change as you are messing with susension geometry angles in the strut. that being said it will go 2 1/4 wider than stock S13 overall.

As far as the sway bar, yes. i just finished testing this weekend. works great. it will clear the latest PBM angle kit at full lock with room to spare. and it has the ability to swap center swaybar rates for MUCH cheaper then buying a whole new sway bar. clears sr ka with nismo power brace. and the best part......It bolts up in the stock location :) soon to come one that clears LS1

[Bink Industries]

Yes, of course. They do, however. Your product is still way overpriced for what it is, and is still not better than the competition in any way you could explain.


i would like to ask you to tell me were the TDP FLCA is superior to mine

not the whole kit

just the FLCA

[Bink Industries]

i am not trying to advertise at ALL

if you guys feel i am please remove this post. i mean no disrespect and am trying to follow the rules. not much of a forums guy

I just want to see what you guys think so i can make sure im on the right track. i will be starting on a RLCA prototype and sway bar in the next few weeks. if you guys like the design elements in this arm i would like to continue the trend on the back and trough out the other products i build.

[godrifttoday]

You should have priced them at 899 and people would have said this guy is crazy he wants 800 bucks.... It's an advertising gimmick ...

[Beejis60]

OP, how do you justify the employment of single jam nut with locking the rod end? Or is it your intention to have it wobble around with the movement of the bearing and using the misalignment shim to keep it from fully rotating?

[kewilso3]

Nice, thanks for the answers. I guess I missed the swaybar mentioned in the original post. So the shank will work like SPL's tie rod ends, using spacers above or below to adjust roll center. The only thing I would still worry about is the amount of articulation in that outer spherical, especially with an extended shank there, they bind much sooner than a ball joint. Like you said though, using a knuckle that raises roll center is the better way. I guess testing will prove one way or another on the binding, good luck, and I'm interested in the knuckles

[Bink Industries]

OP, how do you justify the employment of single jam nut with locking the rod end? Or is it your intention to have it wobble around with the movement of the bearing and using the misalignment shim to keep it from fully rotating?


i could raise the cost of the arm $70 more and put pinch bungs in. but i thought i should keep costs down as little as possible. plus a single jam nut with a drop of red lock tight will do just fine. works for me on our class 5 car and we finished 2 place in class in the baja 1000 this past november jam nuts still tight.

will it work. yes
is it what i want. no

pinch bungs eliminate the use of jam nuts completly and are probably the most secure way of clamping down on rod ends but...... they are EXPENSIVE :(

oh and i refuse to go overseas for stuff because i believe in this country and the people that live in it and dont want to send any money overseas if i can help it. plus i can have much better control on my quality :)

[Bink Industries]

The only thing I would still worry about is the amount of articulation in that outer spherical, especially with an extended shank there, they bind much sooner than a ball joint.

these are things that i have paid very close attention too that alot of the competition has failed to acount for. the outside cup angle is very important. i have angled it so that at ride height it is perfectly in the center (with proper or close to proper roll center) this allows for the same travel on bump and droop.

the factory has there ball joint angled the same way.maybe they were on to something ;) it is tilted down to match the angle of knuckle and pointed BACKWARD slightly to acount for the caster angle.

some of the competitions FLCA are almost completly maxed out of its articulation range just sitting still and to fix the problem they offer TWO DIFFERANT CONTROL ARMS??? with differant cup angles??? I decieded to just make ONE the right way.

I tested these lower control arms at the track this weekend no binding of any kind.

[Bink Industries]

here is a top shot of the arm installed with the clearance. this is full lock (COMPLETLY STOCK KUCKLE) 225 on 18x8 30mm offset

3.75 camber and 10 degrees caster if that makes any differance to you guys.

dont mind the tube sticking out that was part of my mock up swaybar.

[kewilso3]

Yeah I know about the inward/backward tilt, just making sure you did as well :). Important to get that angle right. Probably good that you didn't design in too much length adjustment for people to get into trouble with too much camber.

Any info on the drop knuckle? modding stock knuckles or starting from scratch?

[Bink Industries]

Yeah I know about the inward/backward tilt, just making sure you did as well :). Important to get that angle right. Probably good that you didn't design in too much length adjustment for people to get into trouble with too much camber.

Any info on the drop knuckle? modding stock knuckles or starting from scratch?

yes to much track change and you cant stand you coilovers up anymore. im at full track width with 3.75-4 degrees of camber

as far as the knuckle from scratch. it will be a full sheet metal fabricated part (not to be confused with plate style like the drift works ones)

i find that in the drifting world steering angle is much like suspension travel in the offroad world. its mostly a big pissing contest.

they mess up all the geometry trying to get more travel. give me half the travel and let me set the car geometry up and you get a faster car through the desert.

give me 45 degrees and set it up right through out the turning radius you have a much better drift car then the guy with 1000 degrees of angle.

that being said i plan on trying to match some to the competions angle in the High 50 degrees and improve on driveablity on the inbetween stuff.

if i cant i will remove a bit of angle to get better drivability.

I hope you can see my logic here. thats basicly how im going to go about it.

the ideas are still just on paper i havent started anything in CAD yet.

[Bink Industries]

FYI these two cannot be used in fd

i just finished reading the rule book again just to be sure my part is full legal

the other TDP/ WISEFAB style ones are not because the relocate the the strut.


8.3.2.2. Original suspension design type must remain: Double wishbone, MacPherson
strut etc. Suspension relocation brackets that move suspension points or pivots regardless if they are bolt in to the chassis will not be allowed.

[cbcm2435]

i would like to ask you to tell me were the TDP FLCA is superior to mine

not the whole kit

just the FLCA

billet aluminum= lighter and stronger than a bunch of steel pieces welded together
CNC machined= precise

pretty much sounds superior

[S14DB]

i am not trying to advertise at ALL

if you guys feel i am please remove this post. i mean no disrespect and am trying to follow the rules. not much of a forums guy

I just want to see what you guys think so i can make sure im on the right track. i will be starting on a RLCA prototype and sway bar in the next few weeks. if you guys like the design elements in this arm i would like to continue the trend on the back and trough out the other products i build.
When you do go into production and/or offer them for sale we will require you to have an advertiser account.

Any more photos of it installed? Can't see much from that top down shot.

[Beejis60]

i could raise the cost of the arm $70 more and put pinch bungs in. but i thought i should keep costs down as little as possible. plus a single jam nut with a drop of red lock tight will do just fine. works for me on our class 5 car and we finished 2 place in class in the baja 1000 this past november jam nuts still tight.

will it work. yes
is it what i want. no

pinch bungs eliminate the use of jam nuts completly and are probably the most secure way of clamping down on rod ends but...... they are EXPENSIVE :(

oh and i refuse to go overseas for stuff because i believe in this country and the people that live in it and dont want to send any money overseas if i can help it. plus i can have much better control on my quality :)

Understood

I just want to see what you guys think so i can make sure im on the right track. i will be starting on a RLCA prototype and sway bar in the next few weeks. if you guys like the design elements in this arm i would like to continue the trend on the back and trough out the other products i build.

You make them like this and you will have a down payment from me right now.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/ka-power/splittermisc017.jpg

[Bink Industries]

billet aluminum= lighter and stronger than a bunch of steel pieces welded together
CNC machined= precise

pretty much sounds superior


that billet aluminum part is more then likley heavier then my part :)
i dont want to say for sure (anyone have a weight on that one?)
and mine is chomolly so im running really thin material.

again im lighter than stock!!!! thats pretty damn light. AND i have plans for even lighter :) i actually over built the thing

I have no feedback on theres being stronger than mine but i would be willing to put mine up to stress test in CAD if they will
and i dont think I would be suprised by the results :)

you could slide right into the side of a wall and I would very confident in saying that would be the last thing I would think would break.

there is a reason you dont see trophy trucks with billet lowers.... they cant make them as strong as sheet metal fabricated parts.

i thought about goin billet but new i could make a lighter stronger part with sheet metal.

cnc is VERY accurate but mine is welded in a jig so theres no movement when welded. and I dont think i would be able to tell the differance. CNC deffinatly looks bad ass.

I hope this helps. I dont really want to give away exactlly how I designed the part as there are some secrets to its light weightness and strength.

[Bink Industries]

Understood



You make them like this and you will have a down payment from me right now.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/ka-power/splittermisc017.jpg

I here ya on that one it works but i want to do a stronger part then that and somthing that looks cooler :)

that is really light though. gunna be hard to beat thats for sure.

looks like they got the cup angle right :) and they look like some great tig welds

[Bink Industries]

When you do go into production and/or offer them for sale we will require you to have an advertiser account.

Any more photos of it installed? Can't see much from that top down shot.

I understand, didnt even know that they existed when i posted this in the very first place.

and here is two more pictures for you guys.

[Bink Industries]

finally found the picture :)

[cbcm2435]

that billet aluminum part is more then likley heavier then my part :)
i dont want to say for sure (anyone have a weight on that one?)
and mine is chomolly so im running really thin material.

again im lighter than stock!!!! thats pretty damn light. AND i have plans for even lighter :) i actually over built the thing

I have no feedback on theres being stronger than mine but i would be willing to put mine up to stress test in CAD if they will
and i dont think I would be suprised by the results :)

you could slide right into the side of a wall and I would very confident in saying that would be the last thing I would think would break.

there is a reason you dont see trophy trucks with billet lowers.... they cant make them as strong as sheet metal fabricated parts.

i thought about goin billet but new i could make a lighter stronger part with sheet metal.

cnc is VERY accurate but mine is welded in a jig so theres no movement when welded. and I dont think i would be able to tell the differance. CNC deffinatly looks bad ass.

I hope this helps. I dont really want to give away exactlly how I designed the part as there are some secrets to its light weightness and strength.

did you heat treat the chrome molly to get rid of the heat stress from welding?

[Bink Industries]

did you heat treat the chrome molly to get rid of the heat stress from welding?

no need on the thickness material and filler rod I chose. If I go thinner then yes absolutely i would.

[cbcm2435]

ok, got ya

[cbcm2435]

the only thing i could see wrong would be the possibility of it being too strong. if i were to crash my car i would rather bend a control arm than damage a subframe or tweak the chassis, i think that is why most companies stick with the tubular design

[Bink Industries]

the only thing i could see wrong would be the possibility of it being too strong. if i were to crash my car i would rather bend a control arm than damage a subframe or tweak the chassis, i think that is why most companies stick with the tubular design

glad you mentioned that......................

and that is exactly why I used aluminum rod ends :)

when you crash the arm will be fine.......your car will be fine.... you just replace some rod ends that you broke and your back in business (and what ever else broke of coarse)

dont confuss these rod ends as weak they are bigger than any other arm but the are the intentional weak point so you dont trash your car.

these are the little things that you have to pay attention to that alot of others seem to skip.

[Nismocoupe13]

This is a really interesting design you have. I also feel as if you are onto something here. By chance would you happen to have any videos with the control arm on?

[Chris28]

note the shims on the tension rod side!

i have already bolted this to the car adjusted from stock to 15 degrees of caster.
i wouldnt build something unless i could beat out the competion.


My bad, didn't see the shims there. Looks good!

[Bink Industries]

This is a really interesting design you have. I also feel as if you are onto something here. By chance would you happen to have any videos with the control arm on?

I wish i did. I couldnt get ahold of any go pros before i left for the track. I might be able to get a short clip just runnin up and down the street at the shop a do a few donuts. we have some pot holes that can eat people alive.

This will be being tested on a seasoned drivers Formula drift car along with my front and rear sway bar (hopefully sooner then later) and possibly being debuted in april on the formula drift circuit.

we have found alot of short comings with competitions products and mine have been found superior to them.

[Nismocoupe13]

Thanks for the response. Would you happen to have a website or anything to keep tabs on this?

[indytrucks]

And what class did you run in the baja 1000?

[Duker]

Id like to see these produced for the Z32 chassis.

[Bink Industries]

Thanks for the response. Would you happen to have a website or anything to keep tabs on this?

im still building my company so not yet.

i have purchased everything just not launched it. taking product pics as of current and finishing up the logo

i will post as soon as i have something up online untill then this is the spot to look.

[Bink Industries]

And what class did you run in the baja 1000?
Kellogg Motorsports Class 5 buggy theres tons of video online. great car, great team

[Bink Industries]

Id like to see these produced for the Z32 chassis.

My focus is 240 right now but i will be moving to gen coupe and Z chassis soon after so keep your eyes pealed

[DallasTXjdm]

My focus is 240 right now but i will be moving to gen coupe and Z chassis soon after so keep your eyes pealed

Sounds like you have a plan going on here, just keep the momentum going!

What would assist in positive commentary and interest, are the parts installed on a car, in action, tons of pics and video and demonstrating the benefits of the upgrade. I wish you luck with this endeavor, keep it up! :snoop:

[redsx13]

Lets see, 900$ accomplishes nothing, I'll pass. That thing looks just beefy enough that I'll have fun bending my front sub frame rather than an easily replaced arm. My modified stock arms will clear just about as much angle as one would ever need.

[redsx13]

Not with your design.

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6988/lcav.jpg

As you extend the "tension rod" heim to adjust caster, you change the distance between the subframe and tension rod bracket. Since this distance is fixed, all you're doing is putting pressure on the subrame and tension rod bracket. In my MSPaint picture, the green line is the "correct" distance between the two points. As you extend the rod end along the orange arrow, you change the physical distance between the two points. The purple line is the new distance, and when you rotate the LCA around the subframe rod end to "adjust" caster, the distance is incorrect and you're stressing the subframe and tension rod bracket.

The tension rod needs to pivot on the LCA or the angle at which it mounts to the tension rod bracket needs to be adjustable, like the TDP kit.


You were having so much fun in ms paint you probably forgot to notice that the adjustable caster arms on your 240 pose the same problem.

Hahahaha see I'm on no ones side.

Congrats on the new product, it looks sick, just a little expensive. May want to outsource those ball joints to china lol

[Beejis60]

s sick, just a little expensive. May want to outsource those ball joints to china lol

If the OP has a few extra shanks lying around, I'll gladly buy two :yum:

[kewilso3]

You were having so much fun in ms paint you probably forgot to notice that the adjustable caster arms on your 240 pose the same problem.


stock style tension rods pivot at the LCA

[redsx13]

stock style tension rods pivot at the LCA

Ahhh..no. They don't


Unless your calling the bolted section a pivot point. In which case you should probably tighten those bolts, because that sounds dangerous

[Bink Industries]

Lets see, 900$ accomplishes nothing, I'll pass. That thing looks just beefy enough that I'll have fun bending my front sub frame rather than an easily replaced arm. My modified stock arms will clear just about as much angle as one would ever need.

I had mentioned earlier in this post that i designed in an intentional weak point by using aluminum rod ends so that you dont wreck the car AND you dont wreck the arm.

I will also be offering a discount on a replacment arm if you find a way to break one as long as you send in the broken one for inspection so i can hope to improve on the design.

If your happy with the amount of angle from your modded stock FLCA then great :) and you can get alot of angle with that setup and go have some great fun BUT..... This arm is for people relentlessly want to clear the most angle possible and are trying to have that extra edge over there competition, or just get that bit more sideways at the track or were ever else ;)

[Bink Industries]

If the OP has a few extra shanks lying around, I'll gladly buy two :yum:


if you are looking for some tapered monoball stubs for s chassis I should be getting some soon and I will sell them separate for anyone that wants to buy some. they are for a 3/4 inch monoball (spherical bearing)

[kewilso3]

Ahhh..no. They don't


Unless your calling the bolted section a pivot point. In which case you should probably tighten those bolts, because that sounds dangerous


Ahh..yes. They do. During caster adjustment. You tighten the bolts after adjustment to lock it in of course, I didn't think I'd need to explain all that.

[Bink Industries]

Ahhh..no. They don't


Unless your calling the bolted section a pivot point. In which case you should probably tighten those bolts, because that sounds dangerous


I will have to agree. the factory had no intentions of people putting adjustable tension rods there and as you adjust your caster in this way with the stock FLCA it WILL begin to bind.

there is a small amount of room in the holes to acount for some misalignment but that will only take you so far. i beilve that is what your talking about.

hope that helps explain some stuff.

[kewilso3]

I will have to agree. the factory had no intentions of people putting adjustable tension rods there and as you adjust your caster in this way with the stock FLCA it WILL begin to bind.

there is a small amount of room in the holes to acount for some misalignment but that will only take you so far. i beilve that is what your talking about.

hope that helps explain some stuff.

whether or not Nissan intended it, there is a range of adjustment there, and that is what allows adjustable tension rods to work. All LCAs I've seen that use oem style tension rods have this play built in. Yes you will bind eventually, but you can bind any setup eventually. There is plenty of adjustment for most people, and if you want more/less caster than you can get at the LCA, you should probably be adjusting it at the top hat anyway.

I'm not saying oem style is end all solution, or any better than other styles, I'm just saying that there is room there for adjustment without binding, which is true.

[Bink Industries]

whether or not Nissan intended it, there is a range of adjustment there, and that is what allows adjustable tension rods to work. All LCAs I've seen that use oem style tension rods have this play built in.
I'm not saying oem style is end all solution, or any better than other styles, I'm just saying that there is room there for adjustment without binding, which is true.

the stock tension rods have a pretty good fit into the holes leaving almost no room for "adjustment" to that every car has the same caster (ie location of the tensioni to the FLCA, and again there was no intention for it and it was never built into it to adjust it.

what makes aftermarket adjustble tension rods work is that instead of using the the right size bolt in the two holes on the FLCA they use undersized bolts to give you more "wiggle room" :nono: that is the built in "play" that your talking about in the aftermarket units. that is not a good design from an engineering stand point

that being said. i had some on my car for YEARS and they worked fine and they do have some adjustment you are absolutely right.

[Bink Industries]

240sx flca Prototype - YouTube (http://youtu.be/WZ6SR6N1HHU)

here is the video you guys asked for. its not much but its something to look at.

[Beejis60]

Are you running a NASCAR style sway bar?

[Bink Industries]

Are you running a NASCAR style sway bar?

No. it is a prototype that i made myself from scratch. this was designed specificly for 240sx. there is nothing like this on the market. It is totally my design (based on offroad/nascar style swaybars) made for drift cars and road racing cars alike. it bolts up in the stock location and will clear a least 65 DEGREES OF ANGLE. it will be avalible to the market soon.

there willl be two options one for sr ka with nismo power brace and one that will clear LS1.

it will be sold in the sub $300 range with additional center rates available for a fraction of the cost.

[Beejis60]

No. it is a prototype that i made myself from scratch. this was designed specificly for 240sx. there is nothing like this on the market. It is totally my design (based on offroad/nascar style swaybars) made for drift cars and road racing cars alike. it bolts up in the stock location and will clear a least 65 DEGREES OF ANGLE. it will be avalible to the market soon.

there willl be two options one for sr ka with nismo power brace and one that will clear LS1.

it will be sold in the sub $300 range with additional center rates available for a fraction of the cost.

I don't care about angle.
But it looks like a nascar style 3pc but it's mounted a lot lower, obviously in stock location, from that camera angle. Spline bar/ends?

[Bink Industries]

I don't care about angle.
But it looks like a nascar style 3pc but it's mounted a lot lower, obviously in stock location, from that camera angle. Spline bar/ends?


it is a nascar style, it is in the the stock location, but no it is not splined.

[Beejis60]

it is a nascar style, it is in the the stock location, but no it is not splined.

How the hell are the side pieces mounted to the bar then?

[Bink Industries]

How the hell are the side pieces mounted to the bar then?


welding and bolts.