Cant get car to op temp...dafuq.

[rwtf]

Alright, i got a s14 sr20det in a 89 hatch
I'm running no clutch fan, and only a efan but it never comes on.
Also got nismo t stat and isis 3'' rad.

I just got done testing the Tstat and its working like it should, I thought it might have been stuck open or not intstalled right, but no its fine.

The only way to get it to temp is to let it idle forever, but as soon i drive the temp drops down, I have a aftermarket gauge,wired to the lower rad hose , so im not just going off the stock one.

so wtf is going on, its making me have shitty gas mileage. :wtf:

thanks.

[Mikester]

Put an OEM thermo back in it... Otherwise, deal with the low temps. Things like Nismo T-stats & larger radiators are made for running the car hard... Daily driving on them in the winter is going to yield low temps. You should be happy- If you were running a clutch fan, OEM shroud and cooling panel, your temps would likely be even lower.

You can also raise your coolant to water ratio... Less water + more antifreeze = less cooling. However, you would prolly be sorry come the GA summer ;)

[rwtf]

yeah, I figured it was the Tstat. its been pretty cool down here to, maybe i'll keep the nismo for summer and a oem for winter.

But shouldnt it atleast warm up eventually? bc mine doesnt, my temp gauge doesnt even move from the 130*F starting point.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Where do you have the sensor at? Might have air behind the sensor so its sensing air and not coolant.

[desertKAdrifter]

Yeah like mentioned before, your setup is for racing or drifting. I dont know about sr20det, but on ka24de if the temp is below 170*f the ecu will run the engine on "open loop" mode, in other words it will run richer than normal.

[Croustibat]

Mask half of the radiator with some ABS panel. That is what people do on race car that dont warm enough in winter.

[cotbu]

Mask half of the radiator with some ABS panel. That is what people do on race car that dont warm enough in winter.

Cardboard works as well.

[Croustibat]

Cardboard works as well.

Yes, but cardboard does not react well when being soaked with rain :p

[rwtf]

the sensor is located on the bottom rad hose right by the rad, where stock A/c temp switch goes in a sohc car.

[Mikester]

Yes, but cardboard does not react well when being soaked with rain :p

:werd:---

but you can't breakdance on ABS between runs.

[fliprayzin240sx]

the sensor is located on the bottom rad hose right by the rad, where stock A/c temp switch goes in a sohc car.

Move it to the upper radiator hose...you need to see what's coming out of the engine, not coming in. You're measuring the colder coolant going into the engine after its been cooled by the rad.

[rwtf]

So I put in a brand new 170*f tstat and it still doesn't get to temp. It gets there quicker when sitting, but as soon as I start driving it just drops.

as for moving the sensor, on my guage it has a op temp marking and it corresponds to the gauge on the cluster so i dont think thats the problem.

[KiLLeR2001]

Move it to the upper radiator hose...you need to see what's coming out of the engine, not coming in. You're measuring the colder coolant going into the engine after its been cooled by the rad.

Not quite. You'll want to measure what is going into the engine. If the normal operating temperature is 180*F for example, you will want to maintain that 180*F entering into the engine. That lets you know that the thermostat is working and the radiator/fan setup is cooling properly.

edit: OP what radiator + efan setup are you using?

[S14DB]

Not quite. You'll want to measure what is going into the engine. If the normal operating temperature is 180*F for example, you will want to maintain that 180*F entering into the engine. That lets you know that the thermostat is working and the radiator/fan setup is cooling properly.

edit: OP what radiator + efan setup are you using?

But he want's to know why he's getting shitty MPG not how efficient his radiator is. Cluster sensor is right next to the ECU sensor.


S13 cluster with a S14 motor. Are you using a S13 sender(1 wire) for the cluster?
The 2 wire should match the ECU and the 1 wire should match the cluster(s13/s14).

I noticed a major improvement on warmup going from a 160 to the stock 180. A lot of the low temp thermos have a much different opening curve than an oem style.

[KiLLeR2001]

But he want's to know why he's getting shitty MPG not how efficient his radiator is. Cluster sensor is right next to the ECU sensor.


S13 cluster with a S14 motor. Are you using a S13 sender(1 wire) for the cluster?
The 2 wire should match the ECU and the 1 wire should match the cluster(s13/s14).

Yes I know, I was addressing Ray's post about putting the temperature sensor at the top radiator hose (hot side).

He's running rich because hes not reaching normal op, hence lower MPG.

But yeah, if using an S13 cluster make sure the one wire sensor is for an S13 not an S14. I believe the ECU sensor is the same but a different plug is used.

[rwtf]

my temp guage on the cluster works fine, using an after market gauge to verify.

if you read my posts, i got a 3'' isis rad, and a e fan thats not even hooked up.

[KiLLeR2001]

It's been colder recently. Try a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. When summer rolls around switch to majority distilled water mix.

edit: Did you buy an OEM thermostat or the AutoZone special? I would highly recommend OEM Nissan.

[desertKAdrifter]

hook up the aftermarket sensor on the upper radiator hose, that tells you what temp your engine is running. If you hook it up after the radiator(lower hose) you will of course get a colder reading.

[KiLLeR2001]

Ideally you'd want it after the thermostat and before it enters the engine, aka where the OEM location is for the ECU sensor and temperature switch.

[desertKAdrifter]

Ideally you'd want it after the thermostat and before it enters the engine, aka where the OEM location is for the ECU sensor and temperature switch.

The oem sensors are located on the upper hose fitting where it exits the engine. The thermostat is located where it goes into the engine, right next to the water pump.

[desertKAdrifter]

i'm an idiot, i just reread the op and you are talking about an sr20det. I've never dealt with these engines as my name tag states so dont believe everything i posted, i could be wrong. Should of bought a KA, lol

[desertKAdrifter]

On an sr20det the oem sensors are located by the throttle body so i would have the aftermarket one on that same hose.....

[KiLLeR2001]

I would tap anywhere within the heater hoses on the intake side. I'd steer away from placing temperature sensors near the exhaust manifold, as the heat will influence the readings.

[S14DB]

Blitz puts it on the upper.

http://www.speedzonemotorsports.com/images/P/Blitz%20SR20DET%20Upper%20Radiator%20Hose.jpg

[Taylor008]

I have a nismo thermo and it doesn't get above 160* in the winter. Thats coming OUT of the top hose. I bet my coolant going into the motor would be 130 or less. Not worried about it.

[S14DB]

I have a nismo thermo and it doesn't get above 160* in the winter. Thats coming OUT of the top hose. I bet my coolant going into the motor would be 130 or less. Not worried about it.

Not worried about shitty mpg and engine wear?

[rwtf]

I talked to a friend of mine with a s13 black top and he says hes car will be at op tmep within 5 mins of driving.
I can drive mine all damn day and it wont go up,

Also I have a pbm hmic, also a pig nose with the vents cut so they actually do something.

[S14DB]

I talked to a friend of mine with a s13 black top and he says hes car will be at op tmep within 5 mins of driving.
I can drive mine all damn day and it wont go up,

Also I have a pbm hmic, also a pig nose with the vents cut so they actually do something.
The 170 you got was a single or dual stage?

I would get a OEM themo(180*) and swap. 3 bolts, 5~15mins.

I get up to temp in 5~10mins then stay there like a needle. Only time my efans turn on is in traffic(stop n go).

[rwtf]

shit idk, it was a stant? slant? whatever advance had.

but still would warm up.... also not running a heater core, just looped in the back.

[rwtf]

Bump still facing this problem, let the car idle for almost 20 mins in GA heat for it to warm up, took it for a drive and made a video to show you guys whats happening.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6a0fv847eY0

[cotbu]

You have wiring issues, you can't make the engine run that cold even with a continuous blast of c02 after warm up.

ask yourself a few questions, why is my door dummy light on? and Why is my e brake light still on? Then fix them cause they have nothing to do with the engine swap, but may shed some light on why your oem temp gauge is geeking out.

Assuming you have the proper thermistor to cluster, temp sensor! HTMS!!!

[rwtf]

You have wiring issues, you can't make the engine run that cold even with a continuous blast of c02 after warm up.

ask yourself a few questions, why is my door dummy light on? and Why is my e brake light still on? Then fix them cause they have nothing to do with the engine swap, but may shed some light on why your oem temp gauge is geeking out.

Assuming you have the proper thermistor to cluster, temp sensor! HTMS!!!

:picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp: :picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp: :picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp:

no.....just no.... I have a aftermarket gauge also and it goes down as well with the guage on the cluster, so no, its not wiring...door light is on b/c I need to fix the switch, all it does it turn on the dome light when door opens.... derp.

as for the eBrake its b/c my res doesn't have the sensor so it stays on.

[cotbu]

So i mistakenly to your shitty video for a stock gauge?
with the sensor unplugged the light doesn't turn on or does it can't remember, but you light is on period! Wiring problem! If your door switch is malfunctioning wiring problem or better yet electrical problem. And you fail to understand that wiring issues will cause the electrical system to do crazy things! yeah DERP DERP!!

Unless you think your problem is normal!
It's a wiring, electrical, or grounding issue! Damn even if the alternator was back feeding...... never mind good sir/ma'am good luck!

I'm sorry just in case any other noobs, have an issue like this, thought i might help them out with a solution, or a way to narrow the issue down.
If you can power and ground your aftermarket gauge with an external source or use a external temp probe or thermometer take the temperature with that. I used a portable starter to power and test my wring before I add the new circuit to the cars wiring. "Redundant, but that's why we get the big bucks!"

[rwtf]

omfg. stop being a dumbass. FIRST off it was the stock gauge, second its kinda hard to hold a phone, turn and and shift at the same time. third. ITS NOT A FUCKING WIRING ISSUE.

When I swapped BMC the res didnt have the low fluid sensor so i left it unplugged and the light stayed. big fuckin whoop.

and alternator was back feeding? wtf are you talking about?

and my aftermarket guage uses a thermo probe in the hose, DOES THE SAME THING AS MY STOCK TEMP GAUGE.

and please learn to read. Ive stated all this before. I'm sorry but you do not know what you're talking about.

[cotbu]

Your shit has been broken for at least 3 months and I'm the "dumbass"!
have fun!

And you didn't even mention this but again for the stupid persons
I'm sorry just in case any other noobs, have an issue like this, thought i might help them out with a solution, or a way to narrow the issue down.
If you can power and ground your aftermarket gauge with an external source or use a external temp probe or thermometer take the temperature with that. I used a portable starter to power and test my wring before I add the new circuit to the cars wiring. "Redundant, but that's why we get the big bucks!"
21 yr olds

[rwtf]

Your shit has been broken for at least 3 months and I'm the "dumbass"!
have fun!

And you didn't even mention this but again for the stupid persons

21 yr olds

nothing its "broken" DUMBASS.

and why did you quote yourself? Nothing of use, its nothing electrical.

go fuck yourself dude. No REAL useful info.

[cotbu]

hey dude, did you fix your problem yet?
Hahahahhaaaaaaaaahahahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhahah!
6a0fv847eY0
So Lame!

[rwtf]

umm...okay...? Looks like someone is a little immature...

and actually yes. so go fuck yourself, it was nothing electrical.

[cotbu]

You won't even admit your shit is still fucked up X D ! ! !
Or you used my help to fix it, either way I had fun playing with you, and not myself!

[rwtf]

You won't even admit your shit is still fucked up X D ! ! !
Or you used my help to fix it, either way I had fun playing with you, and not myself!

:picardfp::picardfp:Sounds like you got your own head stuck up your ass.

and no, its not, and no nothing you said was the problem, and what are you like 12? stop acting like it.

You're just a idiot. Thanks for nothing.

[cotbu]

Your welcome!

[Mikester]

Can you please tell us all what the fix was? Kinda the whole point of a tech thread.

[Mikester]

C'mon dude- spill it. If it wasn't what cotbu thought it was, no worries- Please enlighten those who may need the info later on.

[KiLLeR2001]

A) It was electrical like cotbu said.

B) Still not fixed.

[rwtf]

A) It was electrical like cotbu said.

B) Still not fixed.


OMFG please read, IT. WAS. NOT. ELETRICAL, IF I HAVE A FUCKING AFTER MARKET GAUGE THATS NOT TIED IN WITH THE ELETRICAL AT ALL, THEN HOW DOES IT READ THE SAME. DERP FUCKING DERP. :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm: :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:


and yes, IT WAS fixed, happened to be a bad hose under my intake letting air in my system, so fuck you. :mrmeph: BUT, it still drops because I re installed my nismo Tstat, but once I stop for a min or 2 it comes back to where its supposed to.

fucking learn to read.

[future]

So basically it was a electrical problem?

Sorry I had to hahahaha

[rwtf]

electrical fairies, and unicorns in my coolant.

[Mikester]

IT WAS fixed, happened to be a bad hose under my intake letting air in my system, BUT, it still drops because I re installed my nismo Tstat, but once I stop for a min or 2 it comes back to where its supposed to.



Doesn't letting air into the system involve letting coolant out? I would think that a leak would cause the temp to skyrockt, not read cold on both gauges. Which hose was leaking?

[rwtf]

Doesn't letting air into the system involve letting coolant out? I would think that a leak would cause the temp to skyrockt, not read cold on both gauges. Which hose was leaking?


Well I thought so to, that's why i didn't suspect it, it was one of the heater hoses under the intake, but i'm about to replace all of them with new silicone hoses.

[KiLLeR2001]

Haha typical newb doesn't even know he had a coolant leak, which means you didn't bleed it properly because if you continue to see air bubbles you don't just say "Ok thats good enough!" No wonder why no one could help you because you forgot to mention the puddle of coolant collecting underneath your car.

[rwtf]

actually, fuck you, I knew there was a leak, and it didnt leave "puddles" it was a few drops, and I always kept it topped off and checked all the time. And I'm looking into replacing all the hoses.

so you can go fuck yourself. nub.

[Mikester]

OK got it, there was a leak. I still don't understand why temps read abnormally low instead of abnormally high? Esepcially with two functional, independent indicating systems taking readings.

Anyone?

rwtf, I'm not passing judgement here, but if you were wrong- your very best course of action is to admit it, explain what you learned and take your lumps instead of dragging this thread out. These guys will be much less likely to fuck with you now and in the future. This advice will serve you well for the rest of your time on this forum (or any other). These dudes prey on weakness... and the absolute weakest thing you can do is argue for the sake of arguing... or argue to defend a ship that they know is already sunk ;) We all make rookie mistakes... Happens to the best of us- the difference between you & us old folk is that we laugh it off when we do.

Not telling to do anything other than think about this before you go back into keyboard-warrior mode. I only mean to help you when I say you are doing a better job of making an ass of yourself than explaining what the exact problem turned out to be.

[rwtf]

OK got it, there was a leak. I still don't understand why temps read abnormally low instead of abnormally high? Esepcially with two functional, independent indicating systems taking readings.

Anyone?

rwtf, I'm not passing judgement here, but if you were wrong- your very best course of action is to admit it, explain what you learned and take your lumps instead of dragging this thread out. These guys will be much less likely to fuck with you now and in the future. This advice will serve you well for the rest of your time on this forum (or any other). These dudes prey on weakness... and the absolute weakest thing you can do is argue for the sake of arguing... or argue to defend a ship that they know is already sunk ;) We all make rookie mistakes... Happens to the best of us- the difference between you & us old folk is that we laugh it off when we do.

Not telling to do anything other than think about this before you go back into keyboard-warrior mode. I only mean to help you when I say you are doing a better job of making an ass of yourself than explaining what the exact problem turned out to be.

Idk either, it baffles me too, I had a KA with air pockets and it read high until I bleed it, but with this it was the opposite , the KA didn't have a leak it just wasn't bled right, but maybe the location has something to do with it? :wtf:

But I'm looking for a hose kit to replace all the hoses with new ones.

[Mikester]

To replace your under intake hoses on S13 SR, you need 3/4" hose (main heater line feeds, heater line to heater core & AAC valve air line), a section of 1" hose (one small junction to the top heater feed), and some 5/16" hose (throttle body coolant lines, AAC valve coolant lines).

If you plan to replace all those lines, it would behoove you to go ahead and delete the turbine coolant line between the motor & firewall. There is already a thread here on that very subject. Also, if you don't feel like cutting & fabbing heater lines, FRSport has an SR20 heater line adapter kit that plugs/plays with your existing tubing.

[rwtf]

To replace your under intake hoses on S13 SR, you need 3/4" hose (main heater line feeds, heater line to heater core & AAC valve air line), a section of 1" hose (one small junction to the top heater feed), and some 5/16" hose (throttle body coolant lines, AAC valve coolant lines).

If you plan to replace all those lines, it would behoove you to go ahead and delete the turbine coolant line between the motor & firewall. There is already a thread here on that very subject. Also, if you don't feel like cutting & fabbing heater lines, FRSport has an SR20 heater line adapter kit that plugs/plays with your existing tubing.

Its a s14 notch top, I saw a silicone hose kit on ebay for like 60 bux but it said it for was GTiR not sure if the hoses are the same or not.