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View Full Version : SR Rich idle/breaks up under boost


240nessx
01-20-2013, 05:35 PM
So i recently just did a s13 Redtop sr swap. At idle it runs between 10.0-10.5:1 a/f ratio, and cruising the car is perfect at 14.5-15.2:1 a/f ratio. Under boost it runs around 10.5:1 a/f, but once the car gets to 4lbs of boost it just breaks up bad and goes nowhere. Also when i start the car or let off the throttle it bogs down to around 200rpm then goes to 800rpm and idles beautifully. I'm running no bov, stock ecu and a ISIS t25/28 replacement turbo. Any help or insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sliderintrainin
01-20-2013, 05:48 PM
similar issue i was having.check every coupler for boost leaks.

jamg
01-20-2013, 06:37 PM
maybe it's a vac leak?

codyace
01-20-2013, 06:58 PM
Major vacuum leak or timing way off (or a combination).

240nessx
01-21-2013, 12:26 AM
Alright, ill have to check tomorrow, the only vacuum lines are the fpr, wastegate, and charcoal canister? That all go to the throttle body?

S14_BOSS
01-21-2013, 12:36 AM
Damn 10.1 AFR while idling? Super rich for idle.
Have you checked the spark plug gap?

240nessx
01-21-2013, 01:11 AM
No I'm goin to go over everything tomorrow. I assumed the plug gap was correct because there from Nissan, but I could be wrong.

TheZ31Guy
01-21-2013, 01:24 AM
I would say vacuum leak. My car would run like total ass until I got into boost, found out I blew a coupler thingy majigger.

cotbu
01-21-2013, 03:56 AM
Running in the knock map, with timing retarded! check ecu for codes, repair, reset, spend money on premium gas for a test, see if it clears up the idle richness then, boost it! report back.

240nessx
01-21-2013, 06:24 PM
So my spark plugs are gapped correctly, .028-.029, my fuel pressure is ~40psi, my timing is correct, and when I checked resistance on my coolant temp at around 122the when it should be about. 8ohms it was like 500ohms. So I'm goin to change that tomorrow and report back. Thanks for all the suggestions!

cotbu
01-22-2013, 03:15 AM
If you think it's the coolant temp sensor and if it is?, your ign timing cant be correct.
Another observation is your fuel pressure, is 40psi gonna assume with vacuum off and capped, cause that's how you check fuel pressure. your fuel pressure is low, noway you should be at 10.5afr unless injectors are leaking. You shouldn't hit 10.5 unless a whole pipe was disconnected. Also assuming good running engine.

240nessx
01-22-2013, 04:32 PM
my fuel pressure is low? I thought without vacuum it should be around 43-ish and with vacuum it should be around 37. With vacuum its at 40, so if anything i though it was good.

My injectors might be leaking then ill assume.

I checked the new sensor before i put it in, at room temperature and it was reading within spec. When i put it in the car, i checked it from the connector and its at around 300ohms. I guess that would mean there might be an open in the circuit or an air pocket in front of the sensor?

Croustibat
01-23-2013, 01:39 AM
You got a huge boost leak somewhere, surely on your intercooler piping, or your crappy chinese turbo is cracked on the compressor side ( = boost leak again)

Or your MAF is unplugged meaning it cuts down at 2500rpm, but you would have said it.

As far as the FPR goes, your pressure is supposed to be 45psi + intake mani pressure, but if you just want to test your FPR you need to unplug its vacuum line (and block it); then it will be set at 45 psi all the time.

But if your FPR was bad, you would not be rich on boost.

240nessx
01-24-2013, 04:53 PM
I had a boost leak going from the turbo side to the intercooler. All fixed now, she pulls hard. (: