Battery Distribution Blocks

[1320VR4]

Hey Zilvians,

I relocated my batt to the trunk of my S13 and I'm using a shanty ebay distribution block. Doing research I can't seem to find anyone suggesting anything better.

Does anyone have a reccomendation on a block to use that is easy to mount and robust enough that I don't have to fear for the wires slipping out of those stupid allen set screws.


thanks,
Matt

[Guilty1s]

Hey Zilvians,

I relocated my batt to the trunk of my S13 and I'm using a shanty ebay distribution block. Doing research I can't seem to find anyone suggesting anything better.

Does anyone have a reccomendation on a block to use that is easy to mount and robust enough that I don't have to fear for the wires slipping out of those stupid allen set screws.


thanks,
Matt

I was in the same boat as you, but also pushed on time. I couldn't find anything I was comfortable running so I used my alternator terminal as my distribution.

But the only thing I have is Starter, alternator, and a few relays I have setup for my VQ swap. I relocated my fuse box too.
Should still be doable and is actually probably the cheapest, easiest, best performing, and cleanest look you could get.

Another option may be one of the distribution blocks from a Lincoln towncar but my pullapart had them all butchered

[singlecamslam]

I used something like this and made a new post under the hood. You can get it from any place that sells boat supplies.
http://speednik.com/files/2012/11/Painless-05.jpg

[KoukiMonsta]

I used something like this and made a new post under the hood. You can get it from any place that sells boat supplies.
http://speednik.com/files/2012/11/Painless-05.jpg

Dang, I've been wanting something like this but haven't had any luck finding it. Cuz I'm not exactly sure what to call them..

[ShadowMan]

Try a Car Audio shop. I'm sure they'll have something you can use.

[derass]

on my car, the cable leading from the trunk, ends in the engine bay with an eyelet. there is a side to top post adatper that is bolted to that eyelet that allows the original positive lead to be attached

Side-to-top Post Battery Adaptor | Canadian Tire (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/Batteries/BatteryTerminal/PRDOVR~0113555P/Side-to-Top+Post+Battery+Adaptor.jsp?locale=en)

[1320VR4]

I was in the same boat as you, but also pushed on time. I couldn't find anything I was comfortable running so I used my alternator terminal as my distribution.

But the only thing I have is Starter, alternator, and a few relays I have setup for my VQ swap. I relocated my fuse box too.
Should still be doable and is actually probably the cheapest, easiest, best performing, and cleanest look you could get.

Another option may be one of the distribution blocks from a Lincoln towncar but my pullapart had them all butchered

For whatever reason my SR swap is pumping 15 volts too, can't figure it out. I still have the full fuse box for the KA/SR. Humm. I like the picture of the new "relocated posts" but I'm not sure it's quite what I was envisioning.

[Kingtal0n]

Why relocate the battery?! There is plenty of room for a battery and intercooler plumbing. Keep the stock configuration for best performance/reliability.

[1320VR4]

Why relocate the battery?! There is plenty of room for a battery and intercooler plumbing. Keep the stock configuration for best performance/reliability.

There is definitely not enough room for the battery with the IC setup I purchased.

[Kingtal0n]

There is definitely not enough room for the battery with the IC setup I purchased.

picture please. And it can be modified, to re-weld an intercooler pipe is much less work than to relocate the battery.

[1320VR4]

picture please. And it can be modified, to re-weld an intercooler pipe is much less work than to relocate the battery.

I'll take one specifically of that corner tomorrow, anything can be modified I know. I got the relocation kit for trade of some used tires.

[TurboSource]

I was in the same boat as you, but also pushed on time. I couldn't find anything I was comfortable running so I used my alternator terminal as my distribution.

But the only thing I have is Starter, alternator, and a few relays I have setup for my VQ swap. I relocated my fuse box too.
Should still be doable and is actually probably the cheapest, easiest, best performing, and cleanest look you could get.

Another option may be one of the distribution blocks from a Lincoln towncar but my pullapart had them all butchered

I agree this is the best design to use if you are on a budget without any auxiliary instrumentation or accessories.

Implementing a distribution box/block/panel is kinda pointless unless you are willing to do it correctly with individual fuses for used circuits. These can be done relatively cheap and are extremely nice/reliable if you want to add or subtract things.

A quick search found this:
Painless Performance: 12 Circuit ATO Fuse Center (http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30001)

There are bigger or smaller units out there too depending on what you are looking for.

[s14unimog]

Why relocate the battery?! There is plenty of room for a battery and intercooler plumbing. Keep the stock configuration for best performance/reliability.

^ I don't agree - A battery in the back will lend just the same performance and reliability if done correctly.


Implementing a distribution box/block/panel is kinda pointless unless you are willing to do it correctly with individual fuses for used circuits. These can be done relatively cheap and are extremely nice/reliable if you want to add or subtract things.
A quick search found this:
Painless Performance: 12 Circuit ATO Fuse Center (http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30001)


I agree with this guy - to do it correctly is a huge project. Outside simply relocating the battery and adding an inline, custom power distribution blocks are best done after dissecting the chassis harness. Not a quick project.

If you're looking for a way to run the main line, I'd recommend using the starter post as a junction point. It lends the strongest start and works well when jumping over to the alternator and factory fuse box. Just don't skimp on a main inline fuse.

I'd recommend BlueSea's parts. By far the best bang for the buck. Check out my setup.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/217c939f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/a2527dfe.jpg

[1320VR4]

^Really sweet setup! And thanks for an informative post. I wish I had an airbag so I could do the same thing. I'd have thrown four little magnets in each corner of the airbag cover and a small metal strip on the inside lip of the dash where it goes so one could pop it on and off to make the dash look complete.


Anyhow, come spring I'm going to probably do something similar to your setup. I want something clean and reliable.


Also my SR swap is pumping out 15-16 volts, any ideas?