View Full Version : removing turbo from sr20det
sil40sx
03-29-2004, 11:17 PM
does anyone have a link to some step by step instructions on how to remove the stock t25 from the sr20det, i know its not very hard, but i just want to make sure i do it right.
mrmephistopheles
03-30-2004, 12:08 AM
here you go:
1. find bolts
2. find appropriately sized tool to loosen bolts
3. loosen bolts
4. ???
5. PROFIT!!
it's not rocket science.
theicecreamdan
03-30-2004, 12:16 AM
here you go:
1. find bolts
2. find appropriately sized tool to loosen bolts
3. loosen bolts
4. ???
5. PROFIT!!
it's not rocket science.
You also might wanna check the variable transister actuating kineticisor(sp?) VTAK unit, most people don't have that shit, but while you're in there you might as well make sure it's not messing with ur turbo.
oh and step 4. maybe you should pull the bolts out after you loosen them, sometimes its hard to pull the turbo off over the heads of the bolts, even if they are loose but I dunno...
PSI240SX
03-30-2004, 05:56 AM
Sarchastic a$$holes lol. This is the short version, as I remember it. Remove heat shield 10mm bolts, remove downpipe 14mm bolts, while your down there remove the 8mm hoseclamp from the oil return line, remove oil and water lines from block with a 17mm and a 19mm socket, fluid will leak, start removing 14mm bolts that hold the manifold onto the head, and finally have lots of fun removing the hose clamp with long needlenose pliers that holds the metal water feed line into the rubber hose line, behind the head. Lift the entire assembly out. When out, bend tabs down that are on the 4 nuts holding the T25 to the manifold, remove nuts and voila! Make sure you save those tabs! They are needed when re-installing.
Thank You and Good Night. I'll be here all week.
Steeles
03-30-2004, 06:39 AM
^what he said :) cept you might wanna take of the IC piping first... oh sometimes the intake inlet and outlet elbows can be removed for more room to work. the carbon canister needs to come off too.
http://img37.photobucket.com/albums/v114/Steeles/Turbo/DSC03014.jpg
http://img37.photobucket.com/albums/v114/Steeles/Turbo/DSC03015.jpg
http://img37.photobucket.com/albums/v114/Steeles/Turbo/DSC03028.jpg
I know its dirty as chit... had exhaust leaks. gotta clean..
http://img37.photobucket.com/albums/v114/Steeles/Turbo/DSC03031.jpg
http://img37.photobucket.com/albums/v114/Steeles/Turbo/DSC03027.jpg
edited order of pics
Yoshi
03-30-2004, 09:55 AM
we should put this in FAQs! :D
sil40sx
03-30-2004, 11:58 AM
here you go:
1. find bolts
2. find appropriately sized tool to loosen bolts
3. loosen bolts
4. ???
5. PROFIT!!
it's not rocket science.
man! i didnt know i was posting on fresh alloy!
Mr. Badlose
03-30-2004, 12:26 PM
Yeah, it's a real pain in the ass. My turbo mounting gasket blew out a while back (apparantly this a problem many SR owners go through). Make sure you secure those bolts from the turbo to the manifold very well. Even with the locking plates that are suppose to hold the nuts tight, they still rattle loose somehow. Might consider a tiny spot weld on the nuts that could be broken off if you have to remove the turbo again.
Steeles
03-30-2004, 12:28 PM
no the freshalloy answer would be to click here: www.google.com
mrmephistopheles
03-30-2004, 03:12 PM
a$$
you're such a nice guy, Jay!
think trial and error is the best learning method.. that's why I'm to lazy to write out instructions on stuff like this.. wait.. did I say lazy? I meant... busy...
-Kevin
Dutchmalmiss
03-30-2004, 03:22 PM
nicely done steeles
sil40sx
03-30-2004, 03:54 PM
no the freshalloy answer would be to click here: www.google.com
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