View Full Version : help please! clutch slipping badly after new clutch install
yaldizzle
11-22-2012, 01:06 AM
i have an s14 that was swapped to manual and they used an s13 tranny so i needed to pull it out to drill the crank sensor hole and since the tranny was getting pulled out, then might as well change the clutch too. so i got a duralast clutch kit from autozone and replace everything and now my clutch slips super badly. and my pedal feels kind of tight like the clutch is too tight in there and doesnt let it engage all the way. i dont know what it could be. any advice would be great! thanks guys
Croustibat
11-22-2012, 01:51 AM
Adjust pedal play ...
SuperSlydewayZ14
11-22-2012, 02:21 AM
re-surface flywheel?
DennisC
11-22-2012, 03:53 AM
Adjust the clutch pedal. There's a rod above it that is connected to the master cylinder.
fliprayzin240sx
11-22-2012, 09:42 AM
Like said, adjust the pedal and break the clutch in a few hundred miles before you start wanging on it.
yaldizzle
11-22-2012, 08:56 PM
re-surface flywheel?
ya i got the flywheel resurfaced
yaldizzle
11-22-2012, 08:58 PM
i will adjust the pedal and probably flush out the system too and re bleed it.
yaldizzle
11-22-2012, 09:01 PM
Like said, adjust the pedal and break the clutch in a few hundred miles before you start wanging on it.
Adjust the clutch pedal. There's a rod above it that is connected to the master cylinder.
Adjust pedal play ...
i havent adjusted the pedal yet, i'll give that a try tomorrow.
the pedal feels super stiff when i let go of it though like it doesnt want to come up.
but i will adjust the pedal and probably flush out the system too and re bleed it.
thanks guys
yaldizzle
11-23-2012, 07:40 PM
ok, well i bled my system again and i adjusted the rod/pedal a few times and tried it out repeatedly but my clutch still slips badly. the pedal adjustment seems to only move my pedal up higher or down lower, it didnt make any difference on when my clutch engages.
i dont know what else is wrong guys :(
fliprayzin240sx
11-23-2012, 07:44 PM
Crawl under the car, pop the dust boot off the clutch fork and see the carrier moves some in there when you move the fork by hand. If it doesnt move, you got the wrong carrier/TOB and its preloading the clutch.
yaldizzle
11-23-2012, 07:47 PM
Crawl under the car, pop the dust boot off the clutch fork and see the carrier moves some in there when you move the fork by hand. If it doesnt move, you got the wrong carrier/TOB and its preloading the clutch.
thanks, i will give that a try next. so if the bearing doesnt move at all? then that could be why my clutch feels like its not engaging all the way? how much play is it suppose to have?
i'll keep you guys updated, thanks for all the helpful responses.
fliprayzin240sx
11-23-2012, 07:51 PM
If you dont see the carrier move, then it could be too tall and the transmission is pushing it against the clutch.
When you changed the clutch, did the tranny slid all the way in or did you have to pull it in all the way by bolting it in?
yaldizzle
11-23-2012, 08:12 PM
i had to force the tranny back in by bolting the screws in the bell housing. but i thought it was because the pilot bushing because it was really really hard to get the alignment tool all the way in, and when i did, it was really hard to pull back out. but ya, i bolted it in to get the tranny to slide all the way in completely flush.
yaldizzle
11-23-2012, 08:14 PM
If you dont see the carrier move, then it could be too tall and the transmission is pushing it against the clutch.
When you changed the clutch, did the tranny slid all the way in or did you have to pull it in all the way by bolting it in?
i had to force the tranny back in by bolting the screws in the bell housing. but i thought it was because the pilot bushing because it was really really hard to get the alignment tool all the way in, and when i did, it was really hard to pull back out. but ya, i bolted it in to get the tranny to slide all the way in completely flush.
jr_ss
11-25-2012, 10:16 AM
Were you certain that you had the input shaft splined with the clutch disk? How much of a gap was there when you decided to "pull" them together?
yaldizzle
11-25-2012, 08:52 PM
If you dont see the carrier move, then it could be too tall and the transmission is pushing it against the clutch.
When you changed the clutch, did the tranny slid all the way in or did you have to pull it in all the way by bolting it in?
ok well i went under my car and i tried moving the clutch fork and there was absolutely no play in it. it just stiff.
yaldizzle
11-25-2012, 08:55 PM
Were you certain that you had the input shaft splined with the clutch disk? How much of a gap was there when you decided to "pull" them together?
there was prolly like half of an inch gap, the splines went in correctly, the bell housing just didnt sit completely flush so i started screwing it in. but i think it was because of the pilot bushing because the clutch tool was hard to get in because when i put the pilot bushing in, i tapped it in with a socket that was the same size and i think that flattened the lip a bit, but i eventually got the tool in and aligned everything and torqued it down right.
yaldizzle
11-25-2012, 08:56 PM
i dont know what it could be :(
so the clutch fork is suppose to have some play back and forth?
codyace
11-26-2012, 10:17 PM
i dont know what it could be :(
so the clutch fork is suppose to have some play back and forth?
Marginal, if the Hydro system is strong and in place.
Does the car actually drive, or does it continusously slip? Or does it not go into gear (grind). It almost sounds like you're describing a grind more than a slip.
I'd have a friend watch slave cylinder movement myself (or setup your camera to record it to see it move while you push the pedeal). If it's not moving, then rebleed the system (you did remove the damper block correct?). If it is moving, and shifts gears fine, yet slips under power, I'd suspect a crappy clutch,or a uncleane pressure plate/flywheel.
240SilviaX
11-27-2012, 12:42 AM
Hey man I need a day where we can just rip her apart and go thru her 1 step at a time cuz my clutch works perfectly after the first install ,, hope u kept all of the parts ,, btw this is Eric add me fool
yaldizzle
11-27-2012, 01:06 AM
Marginal, if the Hydro system is strong and in place.
Does the car actually drive, or does it continusously slip? Or does it not go into gear (grind). It almost sounds like you're describing a grind more than a slip.
I'd have a friend watch slave cylinder movement myself (or setup your camera to record it to see it move while you push the pedeal). If it's not moving, then rebleed the system (you did remove the damper block correct?). If it is moving, and shifts gears fine, yet slips under power, I'd suspect a crappy clutch,or a uncleane pressure plate/flywheel.
Ya the car drives, it goes into gear and doesn't grind. I can barely drive it though because it just keeps slipping, like there is no way I can drive this thing on the freeway because the more gas I give it, the more it just revs up. I can only drive it if I barely feather the gas pedal. And also,I only have to push the clutch in about an inch and im able to change gears
yaldizzle
11-27-2012, 01:07 AM
Hey man I need a day where we can just rip her apart and go thru her 1 step at a time cuz my clutch works perfectly after the first install ,, hope u kept all of the parts ,, btw this is Eric add me fool
For sure man. Which clutch kit did u buy?
240SilviaX
11-27-2012, 01:19 AM
I got the Exedy OEM replacement Exedy 06054 OEM Clutch Kit 91-98 Nissan 240sx KA24DE (http://www.frsport.com/Exedy-06054-OEM-Clutch-Kit-91-98-Nissan-240sx-KA24DE_p_12738.html) .. It works like a charm
yaldizzle
11-27-2012, 12:44 PM
nice, it's pretty cheap too.
but i still dont think my clutch kit should be that shitty that i can't even drive my car =/
something has to be wrong. im gona order a new kit cause i can swap them out for free cause i already had a warranty on it from 5 years ago and just do the job again i guess.
fml :(
codyace
11-27-2012, 09:09 PM
nice, it's pretty cheap too.
but i still dont think my clutch kit should be that shitty that i can't even drive my car =/
something has to be wrong. im gona order a new kit cause i can swap them out for free cause i already had a warranty on it from 5 years ago and just do the job again i guess.
fml :(
You did clean off the pressure plate before install and make sure the flywheel was clean/good too right? Technically you're supposed to resurface them, but I can tell you from first hand experience that that doesn't always happen, and cars drive just fine for years on the same flywheel surface (again, so long as it looks good)
If you got a really cheap kit, it could just be a weak pressure plate too. It does happen. Heck even with good kits you get a bad egg once in a while.
yaldizzle
11-28-2012, 01:50 PM
You did clean off the pressure plate before install and make sure the flywheel was clean/good too right? Technically you're supposed to resurface them, but I can tell you from first hand experience that that doesn't always happen, and cars drive just fine for years on the same flywheel surface (again, so long as it looks good)
If you got a really cheap kit, it could just be a weak pressure plate too. It does happen. Heck even with good kits you get a bad egg once in a while.
ya i got a cheap autozone duralast clutch kit but that's because it was free and i dont have any mods on my s14. just daily driving it.
i got the flywheel resurfaced before install too.
i guess im just going to do the job again and see what happens.
fliprayzin240sx
11-29-2012, 05:27 PM
If there is no play in the carrier/TOB, I think you got the wrong setup in there. Just out of curiousity, what clutch was in there and what clutch are you running now?
yaldizzle
11-29-2012, 10:13 PM
If there is no play in the carrier/TOB, I think you got the wrong setup in there. Just out of curiousity, what clutch was in there and what clutch are you running now?
ya, everything is installed and i climb under my car and try to wiggle the fork and its just super stiff. so that makes me believe that the clutch is being partly engaged or something, that's why it's slipping.
i dont know what clutch was in there cause i bought it that way.
but now im just using a duralast clutch kit from autozone.
Mikester
11-30-2012, 07:15 AM
So is the problem still there?
240SilviaX
11-30-2012, 10:34 AM
just get the exedy kit and call it a day.. lmk so I can make it out there to help you
yaldizzle
11-30-2012, 07:53 PM
So is the problem still there?
ya the problem is still there =/
i havent had time to work on it. i was gona do the job all over again today, but it started raining lol. my only day off and it rains.
yaldizzle
11-30-2012, 07:55 PM
just get the exedy kit and call it a day.. lmk so I can make it out there to help you
im too broke right now, i need to wait on a couple more checks lol.
the duralast kit should work though so there might just be something wrong with the way i put it all together. but it's pretty straight forward, that's why it's hard to believe that i made a mistake lol.
eventually, i will order the exedy kit with a new flywheel too, but for now, i just want my car to drive! haha.
i'll let you know though, thanks bud
Mikester
11-30-2012, 08:42 PM
Wondering if your clutch sleeve is too long for the duralast kit. Did you replace the sleeve & bearing when you put the new clutch in?
fliprayzin240sx
11-30-2012, 09:12 PM
^^^Thats what I'm thinking. Shit happened to me before on an ACT clutch. They sent me the wrong TOB and when I put it on the the stock carrier, the setup was too tall. Clutch is basically permanently preloaded so it wouldnt disengage and would slip. I had to drop the tranny, tossed in a shorter Z32 TOB and fixed my issue.
Dboyizmlg
12-03-2012, 12:59 AM
If you had not gotten you're problem solved yet, here's some thing to know!
Auto zone products SUCK! They are Nooo good!
Every thing you mentioned sounds good to me, that's if you installed it correctly.
I believe it's the clutch, I know it's New but thats your problem!
yaldizzle
12-08-2012, 08:24 PM
Wondering if your clutch sleeve is too long for the duralast kit. Did you replace the sleeve & bearing when you put the new clutch in?
^^^Thats what I'm thinking. Shit happened to me before on an ACT clutch. They sent me the wrong TOB and when I put it on the the stock carrier, the setup was too tall. Clutch is basically permanently preloaded so it wouldnt disengage and would slip. I had to drop the tranny, tossed in a shorter Z32 TOB and fixed my issue.
If you had not gotten you're problem solved yet, here's some thing to know!
Auto zone products SUCK! They are Nooo good!
Every thing you mentioned sounds good to me, that's if you installed it correctly.
I believe it's the clutch, I know it's New but thats your problem!
that's exactly what it felt like, it felt like the clutch was permanently preloaded so it wouldnt disengage and it would slip, that explains my problem accurately.
well i swapped the clutch kit again with another autozone one cause it comes with a lifetime warranty and the new set looks different. i put that in the other day and my car is finally driveable, however, it still slips when i step on the pedal more. not flooring it or anything, but it still slips a bit. i compared the new tob to the oem one in my car and it does look longer, i didnt know that the z32 had a slimmer one, i woulda gone with that lol.
but ya, i agree, the duralast clutch sucks! i never want to buy anything from autozone anymore. im just gona start saving up for an exedy stage 1 kit at least.
does anyone know how to make the clutch pedal stiffer? it is super soft! lol.
Mikester
12-08-2012, 10:00 PM
Dude, don't worry about your pedal, fix your clutch problem. But YES, it's easy- get rid of that dampening loop between your master & slave. Pedal feel will be excellent & the system will be far easier to bleed.
yaldizzle
12-09-2012, 07:56 PM
Dude, don't worry about your pedal, fix your clutch problem. But YES, it's easy- get rid of that dampening loop between your master & slave. Pedal feel will be excellent & the system will be far easier to bleed.
i fixed my clutch, kinda, it's drivable now, but i still cant put any power down to the floor cause the clutch slips at higher rpms. my engine is stock too lol. so the clutch is just weak af.
NEVER BUY DURALAST CLUTCHES!!!
but yeah, im saving up for a real kit right now, but in the mean time, i gotta dive what i got =/
bussitcustoms
12-09-2012, 08:21 PM
... Are you putting the clutch disc in backwards?
codyace
12-09-2012, 08:59 PM
i fixed my clutch, kinda, it's drivable now, but i still cant put any power down to the floor cause the clutch slips at higher rpms. my engine is stock too lol. so the clutch is just weak af.
NEVER BUY DURALAST CLUTCHES!!!
but yeah, im saving up for a real kit right now, but in the mean time, i gotta dive what i got =/
Why not get the clutch refunded/replaced?
yaldizzle
12-10-2012, 05:15 PM
... Are you putting the clutch disc in backwards?
Why not get the clutch refunded/replaced?
bussitcustoms, no it's put in the correct way.
codyace, it was free. lol. that's why i did the swap.
fliprayzin240sx
12-10-2012, 08:54 PM
Did you break in the clutch first before you start beating on it? You're supposed to take it easy the first couple hundred miles on it. Also, did you turn the flywheel when you swapped clutch?
If you need a cheap clutch, I've had good luck with Valeo clutch for about $110-120.
yaldizzle
12-11-2012, 11:56 AM
Did you break in the clutch first before you start beating on it? You're supposed to take it easy the first couple hundred miles on it. Also, did you turn the flywheel when you swapped clutch?
If you need a cheap clutch, I've had good luck with Valeo clutch for about $110-120.
ya i shift at around 3k rpms. im breaking it for 500 miles, but i can still feel it slipping a little in 3rd. but i know that its not gona be a good clutch for breaking the tires loose.
and the second set i got is a valeo clutch lol. i guess autozone just rebuilds the clutches. but this one is a lot better than the first set i got. im gona stick with this for a while til i save up for an exedy stage 1 and a lighter flywheel.
and yeah i did take my flywheel in to get it resurfaced.
but im glad i can drive my s14 again. i just wish the clutch could handle a little more power, oh well.
240SilviaX
12-11-2012, 04:09 PM
Just save up for that exedy if it still slips after break in.. Ill help with the install
240SilviaX
12-12-2012, 10:17 AM
Also you got a longer gear ratio when you installed the J30 vlsd which is putting a lil xtra load on the clutch.. the only way to get a stronger pedal is with a stronger pressure plate, or put a spring on the pedal assembly
Silvia716
12-13-2012, 05:06 PM
did you replce the prusser plate, and how did you swap the trans in because you might have bent the plate when you swapped the trans witch could cause your slipping i would take it all apart and inspect the clutch and plate
scels240
12-15-2012, 12:22 PM
no clutch, no matter how cheap, will slip on a stock setup
did u do the 5speed swap?
there supposed to be like around 1inch spacing from the
clutch pedal to the master cylinder through the firewall
if its not spaced enough its not gonna be putting all the pressure it needs
and be slightly depressed all the time
http://240sxone.com/tech/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/s13_s14_clutch_pedal_1.jpg
yaldizzle
12-16-2012, 12:06 PM
Also you got a longer gear ratio when you installed the J30 vlsd which is putting a lil xtra load on the clutch.. the only way to get a stronger pedal is with a stronger pressure plate, or put a spring on the pedal assembly
it could be cause of the j30 diff. it actually drives a lot better now. i just cant pop the clutch. lol.
did you replce the prusser plate, and how did you swap the trans in because you might have bent the plate when you swapped the trans witch could cause your slipping i would take it all apart and inspect the clutch and plate
ya i swapped the pressure plate. the second time i swapped the clutch i got help from my mechanic friend. there's nothing we did wrong lol.
no clutch, no matter how cheap, will slip on a stock setup
did u do the 5speed swap?
there supposed to be like around 1inch spacing from the
clutch pedal to the master cylinder through the firewall
if its not spaced enough its not gonna be putting all the pressure it needs
and be slightly depressed all the time
http://240sxone.com/tech/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/s13_s14_clutch_pedal_1.jpg
i didnt do the 5spd swap. i bought it with the swap done but it was done horribly. i have an s14 and they used an s13 tranny, none of the wiring was done so i still have to finish that. i dont know if i have an s13 pedal or not too, does that matter?. i'll check the measurements later this week. it does drive a lot better than the first time. the first time. the tob got caught on the spline lip so it made the tob stick out a lot farther and that's what was engaging the clutch. and i also have a j30 diff in there now that has a longer gear ratio so that could probably make a difference. im able to drive my car now but i just can't pop the clutch to get sideways
scels240
12-16-2012, 01:08 PM
Trannies are almost identical
And pedals do matter look at the pic I just sent
J30 diff, turbo, whatever it may be
Shouldn't slip like that
fliprayzin240sx
12-16-2012, 04:33 PM
Why would the pedal matter if you can change the clutch engagement point by turning the mastercylinder shaft?
scels240
12-16-2012, 05:02 PM
Because the master doesn't have enough adjustments To compensate for the
Spacing needed on the s14 pedal
fliprayzin240sx
12-16-2012, 06:27 PM
Because the master doesn't have enough adjustments To compensate for the
Spacing needed on the s14 pedal
But if he managed to adjust his pedal engagement to the middle, that means he has the right setup correct? I imagine, if he has the wrong pedal and then he wont be able to adjust the mastercylinder shaft and itll be engaging all the way to the top.
scels240
12-16-2012, 09:29 PM
I did this when I did my 5speed
I had alot of adjustments but
It wasn't enough
To compensate
I cut the slave nipple like a inch
N it was good but clutch would
engage way at the top
Most likely this could be his problem too
yaldizzle
12-17-2012, 04:55 PM
But if he managed to adjust his pedal engagement to the middle, that means he has the right setup correct? I imagine, if he has the wrong pedal and then he wont be able to adjust the mastercylinder shaft and itll be engaging all the way to the top.
I did this when I did my 5speed
I had alot of adjustments but
It wasn't enough
To compensate
I cut the slave nipple like a inch
N it was good but clutch would
engage way at the top
Most likely this could be his problem too
k well i just looked at my pedal and it's an s13 pedal.
i still dont understand how the pedal would make my car slip though.
but i guess i'll try to find an s14 pedal and sell the s13 one lol.
scels240
12-17-2012, 04:57 PM
Na dude just add the spacers needed
Look at the pic
The 2 studs on the s14 pedal have spacers
Just get a bunch of washers or whatever
U need the spacing
240SilviaX
12-17-2012, 05:02 PM
just go to home depot or ace hardware and get washers
yaldizzle
12-17-2012, 05:07 PM
alright sweet, thanks guys
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