Bogging under quick acceleration

[zenkiWALLYowner]

Now I know what everyone is thinking how come I just didnt search well I have been for 30min. Here is what my car is experiencing. The car is a 1996 240sx SE no mods at all whatsoever. When I start the car everything is fine and dandy. However if I quickly step on the gas pedal the the car will bog then the RPMS rise as they should no problem. If I lightly step on the gas pedal and continue to press the gas pedal the bogging is not there. Only does it if I tap the gas pedal really fast. All this happened after my friend decided to pull a "prank" he pulled the #1 sparkplug wire. When I first started my car it was a cold a start and my car always had a funky idle cause of my EGR so I figured it was normal. However when on the freeway I called my friend to tell him that my car is still misfiring THATS when he told me what he did so I pulled over. The car was misfiring so I popped the hood and there it was the #1 sparkplug wire chillen on the heatshield. I put the wire back on and everything was going fine. I start feeling the slight misfire when I was parking the 240. Thats when I decided to tap the gas pedal really quick and its been doing it ever since. I drove the car maybe less then 1/2 a mile when I pulled over to put the sparkplug cable back in. I figured maybe the cylinder is flooded? Pulled the spark plug and its completely dry inside the #1 cylinder.

Here are some things ive tried and know are working.
Distributor cap and rotor replaced a few months ago
Sparkplug and wires replaced a few months ago
Fuel filter replaced a few months ago

Tonight my friend came over and we swapped his #1 sparkplug wire with mine and still same problem. We swapped MAFs and still same problem. We swapped sparkplug #1 and still same problem. We checked voltage and we got 13.64v. Also we Ohm the injectors and everything is working fine. Im thinking im getting a weak spark since when we pulled the sparkplug wires they werent sparking when I touched them to the valve cover. When we pulled his wires they were sparking on the valve cover. When I pulled my sparkplug wires one by one each one is making a difference the engine starts to misfire so theyre working. We seriously dont know what else to check for. I checked for codes and got P0110 IAT sensor...... P0335 crank sensor.....and P1336 cam and crank out of sync. Im at a lost here dont know what else to check for. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks guys.

[Kingtal0n]

if you are in neutral and you stab the gas pedal, it is normal for an older ka24 with worn out plugs/cap/rotor/injectors/etc... to bog a little bit. By normal I mean acceptable.
its not a racing engine with incredible throttle response.


i would change the plugs b/c running without spark on that one cylinder probably messed with the one especially, since fuel is being injected but not burned.
where will that fuel go? It will collect in the cylinder, gradually more and more will collect until it starts to remove the protective film of oil from the cylinder walls and may contribute to cylinder wall wear/scoring. It may also form carbon deposits, especially once combustion is renewed.


this might improve the throttle response/combustion characteristics: in addition to the plugs/wires/dist/cap, remove all of the accessible intake plumbing and wash it out with degreaser, including the air filter if applicable (washable element).
Your tps may also be out of adjustment, but that is very rarerly a cause for poor throttle response on the ka24 engine. You can try unplugging it, and notice that there may be very little difference.

[ghoti]

Well since you're friend pulled that spark plug I would start by replacing spark plugs. Or pulling the old ones to let the #1 spark plug dry.
Also this might just be a thought but maybe the fuel pump is going out?

[zenkiWALLYowner]

Thanks for the info guys. I mean even after we swapped everything with his car the bogging under quick acceleration was still there. Ill be buying new sparkplug wires NGK and new sparkplug wires. Ghoti yhea I was thinking fuel pump might be on its way out but all this happened after he pulled the that sparkplug wire. I know it isnt no racing engine haha. Maybe my crank sensor has something to do with it.

[[email protected]]

sounds like a bad maf to me... but you said you swapped that out... so try an o2 sensor... had a similar problem with my sr, took maf AND o2 to fix it

[steve shadows]

First thing you should always do is grab a timing light and check the timing...then move on to other diagnostics.

[waterinfish]

yeah, i think so, sounds like a bad maf to me... but you said you swapped that out... so try an o2 sensor... had a similar problem with my sr, took maf AND o2 to fix it ,thanks for your sharing, http://www.smecenter.net/aijie/images/3.gif

[zenkiWALLYowner]

This is really pissing me of. Cant figure out the problem no matter what we do. My timing is spot on but like I mentioned all this started when my friend pulled the sparkplug wire. Everything else before that was working perfectly. Im gonna check fuel pressure and replace the distributor cap and rotor. Im also being told it could be the Idle air control valve. My idle is fine every now and then I get a random misfire and when I accelerste quick it bogs out like too much fuel and a weak spark. Im all out of ideas I will seriously try anything you guys think could be the problem. I already have my S14 SE for sale for 2500$ if i can fix the problem i can maybe sel it for a bit more. Having 2 cars is such a headache when they both go down.

[Nizzan4u2nv]

its probably misfiring from a faulty crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor in the distributor was damaged from your friends little prank, based on the codes youre throwing.

[steve shadows]

its probably misfiring from a faulty crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor in the distributor was damaged from your friends little prank, based on the codes youre throwing.

Thank you. Always check timing and your CAS first. IMHO

[zenkiWALLYowner]

I understand what you guys are saying. I have been having these codes before my friend pulled that prank and it never did it. Ill replace the crank sensor and go from there. My timing is where its suppose to be at we checked with a timing light. Im going to try swapping distributors with my friend since theyre the same year. Now actually that you brought that up when I do take off it does feel weak compared to before. My cam sensor might have gotten messed up. I looked into replacing the distributor and seems labor intensive removing the timing chain cover aligning the marks etc.

[Nizzan4u2nv]

you dont need to remove any of that, only the distributor. When you set it to TDC remove the oil cap to make sure the first cam lobes are pointed outward, if not turn the crank pulley one more revolution.

[matahernan]

I know this post is old but did you ever figure out what was wrong with the car

[WERDdabuilder]

^just PM the guy. Doubt this guy even remembers this thread since it's been a year plus.