Gino
11-11-2012, 02:26 PM
Due to current life events, I am debating selling the Z. I do not want to do this, BUT...my fiancee and I are building a house right now and at the same time I am also going through the police academy- so this means I have almost ZERO time to mess with the car anymore (and won't have time for the next six months). It really sucks just seeing the car sitting in my driveway not being touched, so I would much rather have it go to a good home and someone that will have the time to finish it up and drive the shit out of it like it should be driven.
That being said, Everything in the car is solid EXCEPT the wiring harness.The story behind this is: when I first finished the car, we went ahead and tuned it and it ran great....for 10 miles. Before we tuned it I had to pull the plenum off to re-do the cam seals (one was not seated fully)...when I did this I forgot to hook back up two grounds to the plenum. We then tuned the car and the car drove for 10 miles then started breaking up badly. I ended up frying the PTU because the grounds were not connected. I put in a new PTU and it started running with one bank about 2 points leaner than the other bank. At this point I started thinking that something in the wiring harness was messing up (I cut the un-used connectors off the harness before putting it in the car), so I decided to completely pull the harness and re-do the whole thing. After that, it was able to start and idle fine, but under any load it would break up horribly. So I pulled the wiring harness again and wired it straight into the haltech connectors, but now the eccs relay is getting constant power instead of coming on with the ignition. Honestly, I believe that to get this car back to a driveable state all you will need is a new EFI harness and a new haltech jumper harness, or to just re-wire this harness up with it's own set of relays etc like haltech suggests...it's just at this time I don't have the time (or the expendable money) to do this myself.
In motor parts ALONE, on this car, there is about $25,000 invested... To reproduce this car would cost about $45,000 +/- (depending on the shell you use). I would be "content" to get $25,000 OBO for it.
The mods are as follows:
Engine/Heads:
-Eagle H-beam rods
-Wesico 88mm pistons (.040 over)
-Tig welded crank counter weight
-Ported oil pump
-Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper
-ATI race damper
-ARP head and main studs
-BDE low profile motor mounts
-Z1 58mm throttle bodies
-Gasket/port matched upper/lower manifolds
-.5mm OS inconel exhaust valves
-.5mm OS black nitride coated intake valves
-Dual valve springs
-Ti valve retainers
-Ti valve seats
-Ti valve collets
-Bronze exhaust valve guides
-major port work
-bowl/chamber work with flush ground spark plug bosses
-5 angle intake valve job
-radius exhaust valve job
-JWT R5 cams (272dur / .385" lift)
-JUN adjustable intake cam gears
-Power Enterprise kevlar timing belt
Fuel:
-Dual stock TT pumps (each pump capable of supporting ~650-700hp) running a parallel fuel set up
-8an nylon braided line from the bulkhead to the rails and as return line
-two summit inline fuel filters 40 micron
-Magnafuel FPR (-8 2 in, 1 out)
-BDE top feed fuel rails
-RC 1000cc injectors
-ASH spec dual fuel pump controller
Turbo/exhaust:
-Twin Garrett GT3071R-WG turbo's .64A/R with 2.75" inlet housing
-ATP 16lb wastegate actuators
-Z1 SS oil feed lines with restrictors
-Z1 GT series oil return lines
-Bell Intercoolers custom made FMIC, Vertical core 4.5"thick x 6" tall x 24.2" long. (The end tanks bring the total height to 12"- rated at over 1200hp)
-AMS exhaust manifolds
-AMS 3" expansion downpipes
-AMS 3" to 2.5" resonated test pipes
-Custom removable secondary resonator section (dumps right in front of the rear subframe)
Drivetrain:
-HKS triple disc clutch kit
-Z1 one piece driveshaft
Cooling:
-Mishimotor radiator
-CX racing 19 row oil cooler
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
-SPL race coil overs
-Adjustable front and rear camber arms (upper control arms)
-Adjustable front tension rods
-Hicas elimination bar
-Solid subframe bushings
-Solid trans mount
-Custom manual steering rack
-Wilwood 13" 6 piston BBK w/2pc rotors
-ADR Msports 18x8.5 +35/ 18x9.5 +35 with 245/35/18 and 275/35/18
Electronics:
-Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 EMS
-Dual AEM UEGO widebands fed into the haltech as primary O2's
-Greddy 60mm boost gauge
-two Glowshift EGT gauges/sensors
-Glowshift oil pressure gauge/sender
Exterior/Interior:
-VIS Border style hood
-Stillen GTZ-R front bumper
-Stillen type 3 side skirts + door fillers
-KurumaZ flushmount wing (stock 90-93 style)
-1999 Jspec tail lights
-Corbeau A4 black microsuede seats + sliders
-Sparco Mugello steering wheel
-Momo steering wheel hub
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/done1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/PSfront.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/int1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/brakes1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/clutch/fullside.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/haltech/haltech1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/heads/chamber.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/heads/intportrunner1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/heads/exhaustport2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/newfmic/1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/IMAG0788.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/New%20z%20pics/side.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/New%20z%20pics/rearps.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/New%20z%20pics/dstall.jpg
The car will be sold AS-IS with the understanding that it is 99% finished and just needs some VERY MINOR work to run completely. I will also throw in all the random other Z parts I have laying around as well as new parts that I have been waiting for the car to actually get running before installing(new head unit, new floor mats, etc).
I do not NEED to get rid of it, just at this stage in my life I would much rather see someone finish it and actually enjoy it, instead of just sit in my driveway for the next few months waiting to be touched....feel free to shoot me a PM or an email if you are interested, and thanks for looking.
David
[email protected]
That being said, Everything in the car is solid EXCEPT the wiring harness.The story behind this is: when I first finished the car, we went ahead and tuned it and it ran great....for 10 miles. Before we tuned it I had to pull the plenum off to re-do the cam seals (one was not seated fully)...when I did this I forgot to hook back up two grounds to the plenum. We then tuned the car and the car drove for 10 miles then started breaking up badly. I ended up frying the PTU because the grounds were not connected. I put in a new PTU and it started running with one bank about 2 points leaner than the other bank. At this point I started thinking that something in the wiring harness was messing up (I cut the un-used connectors off the harness before putting it in the car), so I decided to completely pull the harness and re-do the whole thing. After that, it was able to start and idle fine, but under any load it would break up horribly. So I pulled the wiring harness again and wired it straight into the haltech connectors, but now the eccs relay is getting constant power instead of coming on with the ignition. Honestly, I believe that to get this car back to a driveable state all you will need is a new EFI harness and a new haltech jumper harness, or to just re-wire this harness up with it's own set of relays etc like haltech suggests...it's just at this time I don't have the time (or the expendable money) to do this myself.
In motor parts ALONE, on this car, there is about $25,000 invested... To reproduce this car would cost about $45,000 +/- (depending on the shell you use). I would be "content" to get $25,000 OBO for it.
The mods are as follows:
Engine/Heads:
-Eagle H-beam rods
-Wesico 88mm pistons (.040 over)
-Tig welded crank counter weight
-Ported oil pump
-Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper
-ATI race damper
-ARP head and main studs
-BDE low profile motor mounts
-Z1 58mm throttle bodies
-Gasket/port matched upper/lower manifolds
-.5mm OS inconel exhaust valves
-.5mm OS black nitride coated intake valves
-Dual valve springs
-Ti valve retainers
-Ti valve seats
-Ti valve collets
-Bronze exhaust valve guides
-major port work
-bowl/chamber work with flush ground spark plug bosses
-5 angle intake valve job
-radius exhaust valve job
-JWT R5 cams (272dur / .385" lift)
-JUN adjustable intake cam gears
-Power Enterprise kevlar timing belt
Fuel:
-Dual stock TT pumps (each pump capable of supporting ~650-700hp) running a parallel fuel set up
-8an nylon braided line from the bulkhead to the rails and as return line
-two summit inline fuel filters 40 micron
-Magnafuel FPR (-8 2 in, 1 out)
-BDE top feed fuel rails
-RC 1000cc injectors
-ASH spec dual fuel pump controller
Turbo/exhaust:
-Twin Garrett GT3071R-WG turbo's .64A/R with 2.75" inlet housing
-ATP 16lb wastegate actuators
-Z1 SS oil feed lines with restrictors
-Z1 GT series oil return lines
-Bell Intercoolers custom made FMIC, Vertical core 4.5"thick x 6" tall x 24.2" long. (The end tanks bring the total height to 12"- rated at over 1200hp)
-AMS exhaust manifolds
-AMS 3" expansion downpipes
-AMS 3" to 2.5" resonated test pipes
-Custom removable secondary resonator section (dumps right in front of the rear subframe)
Drivetrain:
-HKS triple disc clutch kit
-Z1 one piece driveshaft
Cooling:
-Mishimotor radiator
-CX racing 19 row oil cooler
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
-SPL race coil overs
-Adjustable front and rear camber arms (upper control arms)
-Adjustable front tension rods
-Hicas elimination bar
-Solid subframe bushings
-Solid trans mount
-Custom manual steering rack
-Wilwood 13" 6 piston BBK w/2pc rotors
-ADR Msports 18x8.5 +35/ 18x9.5 +35 with 245/35/18 and 275/35/18
Electronics:
-Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 EMS
-Dual AEM UEGO widebands fed into the haltech as primary O2's
-Greddy 60mm boost gauge
-two Glowshift EGT gauges/sensors
-Glowshift oil pressure gauge/sender
Exterior/Interior:
-VIS Border style hood
-Stillen GTZ-R front bumper
-Stillen type 3 side skirts + door fillers
-KurumaZ flushmount wing (stock 90-93 style)
-1999 Jspec tail lights
-Corbeau A4 black microsuede seats + sliders
-Sparco Mugello steering wheel
-Momo steering wheel hub
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/done1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/PSfront.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/int1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/brakes1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/clutch/fullside.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/haltech/haltech1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/heads/chamber.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/heads/intportrunner1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/heads/exhaustport2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/build/newfmic/1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/IMAG0788.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/New%20z%20pics/side.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/New%20z%20pics/rearps.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/GinoZ32/New%20z%20pics/dstall.jpg
The car will be sold AS-IS with the understanding that it is 99% finished and just needs some VERY MINOR work to run completely. I will also throw in all the random other Z parts I have laying around as well as new parts that I have been waiting for the car to actually get running before installing(new head unit, new floor mats, etc).
I do not NEED to get rid of it, just at this stage in my life I would much rather see someone finish it and actually enjoy it, instead of just sit in my driveway for the next few months waiting to be touched....feel free to shoot me a PM or an email if you are interested, and thanks for looking.
David
[email protected]