S13 clutch pedal sticks to floor/car won't drive

[slidesquad240]

Ok so hears the deal yesterday I noticed my clutch pedal feel kinda soft I havea spec stage 4 unsprung I went about no more than 5 miles and it got worse pedal would stick to the floor if have to lift it up with my foot. Took off from a stop and got into third when the car wouldn't move motor just revved up. Pulled over clutch pedal was hard couldn't push it all the way without force. Took out tranny today throw out bearing was good clutch disk has plenty meat pressure plate has wear but not deep gouges the fingers on it look good. Only concern is the fork I didn't thoroughly inspect it but didn't notice any damage. So the slave cylinder was leaky I changed that along with the master got a pedal but not stiff as it normally is drove it off the lift and let it run for a few minutes only to have the pedal stick to the floor again. Bled it numerous times somehow the slave got stuck out at its furthest point and won't return. Could this be fork or a bad clutch? Any ideas please

[Def]

Would it be too much trouble to at least say what engine this is for?

KA24E's have small slave cylinders so the pressures are higher vs. the larger KA24DE slave. The SOHC slaves like to blow out from the high pressures with a stiffer pressure plate.

[shift_down]

What he said.
Also, when you bled the system, was there still air in the line? If you bled it a million times and air is still in the line, then change the master cylinder and check for leaks in the hard line.

[slidesquad240]

It's a dual cam I bled it a million times there's no air I replaced slave and master

[shift_down]

then I would say it is the clutch fork. There is a ball looking thing that attaches to the groove in the clutch fork, if that is worn out, it will produce similar symptoms.

But then you were saying that you had a leaky slave before you changed it, so that makes me wonder if it is fluid related. Have you adjusted the rod on the clutch master cylinder?

[d_nice]

i have teh same issue will try the clutch master cylinder

[slidesquad240]

I haven't adjusted the rod on the cmc but im gonna pull the tranny and check the fork and pivot ball just don't wanna do all the work for nothing

[shift_down]

adjust the Clutch MC before you pull the tranny. Its easy to do.

[slidesquad240]

What am I adjusting? The rod thr connects to the pedal ? And what does it do

[shift_down]

Yes. There is a pin going through it. Remove that pin. Then there is a nut that holds the end of the rod in place, loosen that nut. Then turn the end of the rod until it moves outwards, then tighten the nut and place it back on the peddle.

[slidesquad240]

Ok I will try that but why would the slave be fully extended?

[shift_down]

push the slave rod in by hand and see if it goes in.open the MC resovoir cap

[slidesquad240]

I'll try that today and post what happens

[didderson]

What slave cylinder do you use? I tend to use the 300zx z31 ones because parts stores are always out of KA ones. If you use the old Z ones they fit and may be a slightly larger bore than ka (but don't quote me on that), but the problem is their bleeder screw is located on the bottom, so you have to flip the assembly 180degrees in order to properly bleed the air. Then tighten down the bleeder screw and assemble it onto the trans.
Hope this helps.

[drifter1992]

do you still have the clutch dampner on the car?. just remove that and run the hardline going into the dampner straight to the slave cylinder.

[slidesquad240]

I got a ka slave cylinder and no I don't have that just straight line to the slave

[slidesquad240]

So I did some thinkin bare with me that piston is fully extended because the throw out bearing isn't sliding down the shaft properly and that's how air gets in the system from that boot popping off causing the soft pedal. And when I broke down and the pedal was hard to push it because the bearing wouldn't move or the fork wouldn't slide causing that pedal to be really stiff like it was jammed now that I think when I pushed the fork with the tranny out it didn't move easily or go out far FUCK

[Def]

Your pivot ball has likely broken.

[slidesquad240]

Pulled tranny yesterday and when I took the slave off I had to pull the fork as it seemed stuck. Looked inside the shaft had no grease it was seeming like it just had been sticking causing it not to slide nothing is broke or bent put it back together and couldn't get any pressure in the clutch pedal ordering a slave from Nissan today...

[shift_down]

ok cool cool. So everything is in tact. It's such a pain to pull the tranny. I hope the grease solves it.

[slidesquad240]

I got it down to about 15 min luckily I have access to a lift. Slave won't be in til Saturday so I will update this then

[aznfab213]

I had this same exact problem. You probably have a broken pivot ball. Order a nismo or circuit sports one. Problem solved.

[slidesquad240]

The pivot ball looked alright tho....now I'm just not building pressure

[slidesquad240]

Put new slave in and car drives only thing is my pedal isn't as stiff as it was before?

[slidesquad240]

Bump any ideas

[Ponda]

Couple of issues I have ran into...this may help.

Numero 1 - what throw out bearing are you using? Did your new clutch come with one? I made the unfortunate mistake of using a new OEM instead of the bearing that came with my clutch kit (doh!). By using the OEM - it was allowing the slave cylinder to extend too far and losing all pressure.

2 - Slave cylinders are pretty simple. Can you manually compress the slave pin? If you can, take the assembly apart and inspect. If you can't...well - you found your problem.

3 - Bleeding the clutch is a major PITA for some reason. I always end up having to blow on the cap of the master and force fluid to the slave to finally get a pedal (you better have a good blower ;)). After that, I usually have to bleed the stupid thing forever.

[slidesquad240]

Clutch isn't brand new bearing is what came with clutch car drives fine just has a softer pedal could that be from the new slave