SR20DET '72 Datsun 510
08-22-2012, 11:30 PM
I purchased this 240Z back in April 2011 as a project that turned into my daily driver. It was inspected at Mike's Z Shop in Whittier before I purchased it to make sure there were not serious problems with the car other then the obvious problems I knew about when I inspected it. The vehicle had many small issues when I bought it and the majority of them have been fixed, or repaired. There is very minimal rust on the passenger side floor board as shown in the picture. At the end of the description i will list all the known flaws of areas to improve. Please remember this is a 39 year old vehicle and it has never been restored. It is a driver not a garage queen.
The actual mileage of the vehicle is unknown. The odometer reads 77,900 which could be 177,900 or even 277,900 on the chassis. The engine was rebuilt by shop from the previous owner 3,000 miles before I bought it. I talked to the shop that did the work and they knew what they were talking about. The block was rebuilt with standard internals and was not bored as the block was still in good condition. The buyer of the vehicle will get the previous owners phone number, the shop that rebuild the engines phone number and the speed shop that did the front mount intercooler installation as well as other upgrades. Most of the upgrades from the speed shop have been redone by me because I was not happy with their work and was not up to my standards.
New parts installed and upgrades done by me after purchase.
RC 650cc Injectors
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Redid the fuel lines ( would still reroute the fuel feel off the tank for better position )
Hi Flow Fuel Rail w/ Gauge
Subaru STi Fuel Pressure Regulator
Tial MVS Wagegate
New Downpipe with Recirculation for the Wastegate
AEM Custom Stand Alone ECU set up
AEM Map Sensor
AEM UEGO
Motorsport BBK including the large 4-piston calipers, 300zx vented rotors and adapters.
New Brake Pads
New Brake Booster
New Master Cylinder
Motorsports Carpet Kit
Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses & Pipes
Lowered the Radiator ( was hitting the hood from the bad install )
Motorsports Hi Flow Oil Pump
Parts and Modifications installed before purchase
L28 Turbo Block
P90A Head - Adjustable Valve Type
5 Speed 280ZX Transmission
R200 Differential ( Have a good spare that will come with the sale )
T3 Turbo
Custom Intercooler & Piping
Custom Radiator ( I have redone all the hoses and pipes )
Urethane Front Spoiler ( unpainted )
Large Front Swaybar
4 Way Adjustable struts ( Look like Tokico but previous owner was not sure )
Unknown brand of Lowering Springs - Have not been cut
Sump installed in factory fuel tank
The AEM ECU was installed and custom harness made by Mitch from MP Tuning. The buyer will also get his phone and contact for future tuning. It was tuned by Mitch after the long but sucessful installation and put down 260whp on Outfront Motorsports Dyno. This is with a 10psi conservative tune knowing the stock internals would not be reliable at much more than that. The ECU controls the electric fan and keeps it cool. There are no mechanical problems with the vehicle as it is daily driven and would consider and feel comfortable driving it cross country.
Here is a list of the problems, issues or things I would fix if I were to keep it.
Paint - The previous owner had it painted white and they did a BAD job. It was not prepped well as you can see some sand marks under the paint in some areas. There is a lot of over sprayas they did not mask it well. It looks great from 10 feet but upon closer inspection you can see the flaws. I still get daily compliments on how good it looks even with the flaws.
The rear hatch needs to be aligned and or adjusted. One of the hinges broke free from the hatch and the hatch chipped some of the paint around the hatch. The hinge was reattached and reinforced with additional spot welds. Would wait for the repaint to fix this if it were me.
Both from fenders have small dents in the lower portion and some of the paint has chipped off.
Passenger side floor board out towards the fender has a small rust whole. That is the only hole on the vehicle that I can find. Was not there when I purchased it so it must have been recent. I have garaged the vehicle since I purchased it and do not drive it in the rain. I drive my truck when it rains.
With the larger diff the exhaust rattles when you shut the engine off because it is too close. I would redo the exhaust from the down pipe back f I were to keep it and do a full 3" mandrel bend to the muffler.
The hood has a small dent from where the radiator cap used to hit the hood. The radiator was lowered and the hood does not hit anymore. The paintless dent removers might be able to get it out too.
Some of the suspension and differential bushings are worn and make clunking noises when shifting hard or decelerating hard. I am including a complete master bushing kit from Energy Suspension. This should have every bushing to fix any of the worn ones.
I would reroute the feed fuel line from the tank to the pump. Not happy with how low it sits. It functions fine and is not too low to hit anything. Just not happy how it looks and turned out.
Headliner is sagging and the tan color shows at the front.
Glove box hinges are broken. The door stays shut but when you open it the door falls off.
There is no heat or A/C. I was told the vehicle had A/C but I have no proof. The heater core and blower motor are included and from what I can see all of the plumbing is still intact if you chose to reinstall.
I have some of the interior trim parts but they are not in good shape. I was planning on buying replacements form Motorsport in Orange just never got around to it. Most of them are included as shown in the extras pictures but they are in POOR shape and would not instal them without repairing them if possible.
The picture where the interior is out was from when I installed the complete carpet kit. It fits OK for being aftermarket but way better then what the old carpet looked like.
No Stereo or speakers. I liked listening to the sound of the engine more. I took out the old crappy CD unit that was in the vehicle when purchased.
The temp gauge does not work as well as the clock.
The fuel gauge works but not sure how accurate with the sump that was installed into the factory tank.
Would redo the splitter for the radiator as it is aluminum and they tried to paint it white with the vehicle and the paint did not stick.
That is all I can think of. This 240Z is a driver and a blast to drive. The only reason I am selling it is to repair my 510 that i recently crashed at Big Willow. Feel free to contact me with any questions or if you would like to swing by and check her out before bidding. Please be aware that she is advertised locally for sale as well and can end the auction at anytime if she sells.
All of the lights, turn signals, brake lights even reverse lights work. The interior dome light does not and may just need a bulb.
I replaced the turn lamp and headlamp switch with a reconditioned set as the previous set in the vehicle did not work all the time.
The ignition switch is new. The doors and trunk use the same key. I pulled a set of locks from pick a part and had keys made for those cylinders.
The passenger side door will not lock with the key. Just needs an adjustment. You can lock it from inside by pushing the knob down.
The dash has cracks under the 1/2 cover that was installed by the previous owner.
The front bumper was repaired and need to be re-chromed to be perfect again. The rear bumper has a small dent it which is very hard to notice.
There are small paint chips from other vehicle doors or objects bumping in the the car. No door dings just some pant chips.
I had Mitch leave the OEM harness as long as original so I reroute the harness and mount the ECU up under the dash behind the glove box. I never got around to building the mounting for it so it is velcroed to the kick panel wall. It is firm and does not move just wanted it more secure in the future.
I removed all of the spacers from the bottom of the seats so they could sit as low as possible.
None of the glass has any cracks or chips. The widows roll up nice and tight and do not vibrate. The rubber on the door where the window goes up and down on is work and will need to be replaced if you want it to look perfect. Good time to do it after a new paint job.
That is all for now. I will add more later as I recall things that need to be addressed. I will also be adding some videos soon as I get time to do them.
I forgot i has a credit at Motorsport in Orange so I used it to purchase new ball joints, tire rod ends, steering rack boots and installed them When I was in there I also changed the steering rack bushings and steering coupler bushing from the Energy Suspension kit.
Asking $8000.00 FIRM
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The actual mileage of the vehicle is unknown. The odometer reads 77,900 which could be 177,900 or even 277,900 on the chassis. The engine was rebuilt by shop from the previous owner 3,000 miles before I bought it. I talked to the shop that did the work and they knew what they were talking about. The block was rebuilt with standard internals and was not bored as the block was still in good condition. The buyer of the vehicle will get the previous owners phone number, the shop that rebuild the engines phone number and the speed shop that did the front mount intercooler installation as well as other upgrades. Most of the upgrades from the speed shop have been redone by me because I was not happy with their work and was not up to my standards.
New parts installed and upgrades done by me after purchase.
RC 650cc Injectors
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Redid the fuel lines ( would still reroute the fuel feel off the tank for better position )
Hi Flow Fuel Rail w/ Gauge
Subaru STi Fuel Pressure Regulator
Tial MVS Wagegate
New Downpipe with Recirculation for the Wastegate
AEM Custom Stand Alone ECU set up
AEM Map Sensor
AEM UEGO
Motorsport BBK including the large 4-piston calipers, 300zx vented rotors and adapters.
New Brake Pads
New Brake Booster
New Master Cylinder
Motorsports Carpet Kit
Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses & Pipes
Lowered the Radiator ( was hitting the hood from the bad install )
Motorsports Hi Flow Oil Pump
Parts and Modifications installed before purchase
L28 Turbo Block
P90A Head - Adjustable Valve Type
5 Speed 280ZX Transmission
R200 Differential ( Have a good spare that will come with the sale )
T3 Turbo
Custom Intercooler & Piping
Custom Radiator ( I have redone all the hoses and pipes )
Urethane Front Spoiler ( unpainted )
Large Front Swaybar
4 Way Adjustable struts ( Look like Tokico but previous owner was not sure )
Unknown brand of Lowering Springs - Have not been cut
Sump installed in factory fuel tank
The AEM ECU was installed and custom harness made by Mitch from MP Tuning. The buyer will also get his phone and contact for future tuning. It was tuned by Mitch after the long but sucessful installation and put down 260whp on Outfront Motorsports Dyno. This is with a 10psi conservative tune knowing the stock internals would not be reliable at much more than that. The ECU controls the electric fan and keeps it cool. There are no mechanical problems with the vehicle as it is daily driven and would consider and feel comfortable driving it cross country.
Here is a list of the problems, issues or things I would fix if I were to keep it.
Paint - The previous owner had it painted white and they did a BAD job. It was not prepped well as you can see some sand marks under the paint in some areas. There is a lot of over sprayas they did not mask it well. It looks great from 10 feet but upon closer inspection you can see the flaws. I still get daily compliments on how good it looks even with the flaws.
The rear hatch needs to be aligned and or adjusted. One of the hinges broke free from the hatch and the hatch chipped some of the paint around the hatch. The hinge was reattached and reinforced with additional spot welds. Would wait for the repaint to fix this if it were me.
Both from fenders have small dents in the lower portion and some of the paint has chipped off.
Passenger side floor board out towards the fender has a small rust whole. That is the only hole on the vehicle that I can find. Was not there when I purchased it so it must have been recent. I have garaged the vehicle since I purchased it and do not drive it in the rain. I drive my truck when it rains.
With the larger diff the exhaust rattles when you shut the engine off because it is too close. I would redo the exhaust from the down pipe back f I were to keep it and do a full 3" mandrel bend to the muffler.
The hood has a small dent from where the radiator cap used to hit the hood. The radiator was lowered and the hood does not hit anymore. The paintless dent removers might be able to get it out too.
Some of the suspension and differential bushings are worn and make clunking noises when shifting hard or decelerating hard. I am including a complete master bushing kit from Energy Suspension. This should have every bushing to fix any of the worn ones.
I would reroute the feed fuel line from the tank to the pump. Not happy with how low it sits. It functions fine and is not too low to hit anything. Just not happy how it looks and turned out.
Headliner is sagging and the tan color shows at the front.
Glove box hinges are broken. The door stays shut but when you open it the door falls off.
There is no heat or A/C. I was told the vehicle had A/C but I have no proof. The heater core and blower motor are included and from what I can see all of the plumbing is still intact if you chose to reinstall.
I have some of the interior trim parts but they are not in good shape. I was planning on buying replacements form Motorsport in Orange just never got around to it. Most of them are included as shown in the extras pictures but they are in POOR shape and would not instal them without repairing them if possible.
The picture where the interior is out was from when I installed the complete carpet kit. It fits OK for being aftermarket but way better then what the old carpet looked like.
No Stereo or speakers. I liked listening to the sound of the engine more. I took out the old crappy CD unit that was in the vehicle when purchased.
The temp gauge does not work as well as the clock.
The fuel gauge works but not sure how accurate with the sump that was installed into the factory tank.
Would redo the splitter for the radiator as it is aluminum and they tried to paint it white with the vehicle and the paint did not stick.
That is all I can think of. This 240Z is a driver and a blast to drive. The only reason I am selling it is to repair my 510 that i recently crashed at Big Willow. Feel free to contact me with any questions or if you would like to swing by and check her out before bidding. Please be aware that she is advertised locally for sale as well and can end the auction at anytime if she sells.
All of the lights, turn signals, brake lights even reverse lights work. The interior dome light does not and may just need a bulb.
I replaced the turn lamp and headlamp switch with a reconditioned set as the previous set in the vehicle did not work all the time.
The ignition switch is new. The doors and trunk use the same key. I pulled a set of locks from pick a part and had keys made for those cylinders.
The passenger side door will not lock with the key. Just needs an adjustment. You can lock it from inside by pushing the knob down.
The dash has cracks under the 1/2 cover that was installed by the previous owner.
The front bumper was repaired and need to be re-chromed to be perfect again. The rear bumper has a small dent it which is very hard to notice.
There are small paint chips from other vehicle doors or objects bumping in the the car. No door dings just some pant chips.
I had Mitch leave the OEM harness as long as original so I reroute the harness and mount the ECU up under the dash behind the glove box. I never got around to building the mounting for it so it is velcroed to the kick panel wall. It is firm and does not move just wanted it more secure in the future.
I removed all of the spacers from the bottom of the seats so they could sit as low as possible.
None of the glass has any cracks or chips. The widows roll up nice and tight and do not vibrate. The rubber on the door where the window goes up and down on is work and will need to be replaced if you want it to look perfect. Good time to do it after a new paint job.
That is all for now. I will add more later as I recall things that need to be addressed. I will also be adding some videos soon as I get time to do them.
I forgot i has a credit at Motorsport in Orange so I used it to purchase new ball joints, tire rod ends, steering rack boots and installed them When I was in there I also changed the steering rack bushings and steering coupler bushing from the Energy Suspension kit.
Asking $8000.00 FIRM
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