OK to tee boost gauge to BOV?

[rrobe99999]

I have just put in a FMIC and relocated the autometer boost gauge line to tee into the BOV line. It used to be tapped into the cold pipe. I still get 4PSI, but now I see 20in/mercury on the vacuum side (good). I've read that I should tee this into the FPR, but wanted to know if tapping into the BOV line instead would cause any probems or inaccurate. I have an S14 SR20DET. I think my low boost level is because the factory boost solenoid has been bypassed, but I'm not sure if my boost reading is accureate. I'm playing with a MBC. I boosted to 12PSI and it was awesome. It spooled to 4 PSI immediately and then crept up slowly to 12. I'm thinking about getting an EBC in order to boost faster. I want to get my stock setup sorted out first so that overboost and hurt my engine.

[the head]

i run mine off of the FPR hose
I have heard (althought never expierenced) that running it off of the BOV line will cause a slower reaction in the BOV
As for EBC if you are having trouble using a manual unit than be sure someone knows how to set it up and wire it
what MBC are you running and have you tried just runnign the vac line directly to the wastegate and bypassing hte MBC that is the way my car is setup for initial tuning and working out the bugs in the system it is one less thing that is a variable in your system

[tchenku]

if your gauge is reading vacuum, then it's already hooked up to the FPR/manifold (along with your BOV)

[NISMO_drift]

it should be teed into the FPR. what kind of vacuum hose are you using? prob need to get a nylon or reinforced tube b/c the line might be expanding... ...throwing off your boost guage.
...or you MBC could be the culprit. like THE HEAD said, plug your wastegate strait into the hotpipe and see what kind of boost you get.

[rrobe99999]

i run mine off of the FPR hose
I have heard (althought never expierenced) that running it off of the BOV line will cause a slower reaction in the BOV

As for EBC if you are having trouble using a manual unit than be sure someone knows how to set it up and wire it
what MBC are you running and have you tried just runnign the vac line directly to the wastegate and bypassing hte MBC that is the way my car is setup for initial tuning and working out the bugs in the system it is one less thing that is a variable in your system

Good advice. Thats a good reason not to tee into the BOV. I'm going to Tee into the FPR. It just was easier to tee into BOV 'cus I didn't have the parts I needed and the nearest parts store is 30 min away. I live in a tourist beach town. We have 100 T-shirt shops, but don't have any parts stores, electronics stores, or fried chicken. The boost gauge has 1/8" nylon tubing that transitioned to 1/4" vacuum hose. It'll now be transitioned to 1/8" vacuum hose to tee into the FPR. Maybe that will make a difference.

The MBC that came with the car is a regulator valve that is used to control shop air (like 100PSI). It works, but isn't the best thing for this application. With the low level of boost that I'm running, it passes all the pressure throughout most of its adjustment, and then only takes a little bit to make a big difference. I've bypassed it and am comfortable with how it operates. Its just difficult to tune, so I'm looking for something better. My car is a DD, so I want to run low boost most of the time, but would love to get 12PSI at the touch of a buttton. The EBCs that I'm looking at will tee into the FPR for boost presseure. Now I'm wondering If I can have the EBC and the autometer boost gauge tapped off of the FPR and then maybe teed inside the cockpit?

[JagdStealth]

Yes, you can have them both tee'd off of the same place and get a reading just fine. Vacuum is uniform across everything tapped into the manifold, adding a couple extra lines won't make any noticeable difference.

You should always use hard nylon for the boost gauge or very stiff rubber line. Normal vacuum line (or washer nozzle line) can expand if you're running high boost, although 8-9PSI (normal SR20 boost) shouldn't be enough to expand the line.

As far as EBC's go. I recommend the Blitz DSBC. I've used the HKS EVC, Greddy profec A / B, and Apex'i AVC-R. The Blitz is the best working unit by far. It builds boost the best, is easiest to use, and has 4 settings for boost. If the Blitz is too expensive, the Greddy profec-B is a great no-frills boost controller with a high and low setting, sounds perfect for you and you can pick them up for $200 used easily.