ShadowMan
08-14-2012, 01:08 AM
Correction; I don't know why I typed Innovative in the title when it's Innovate. Facepalm. Sorry.
So I got the wideband installed and took pics. Went rather smoothly since there was already a bung on the exhaust and I already had a spot for the gauge. Obviously, this was the way I did it but there are many different paths to take as far as gauge placemant, steel O2 bung palcemt, wire routing, etc. Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. But I'll just get right into it.
Tools and items I used:
Wire strippers/cutters
Voltage meter
Crescent wrench
10mm socket
Ratchet with 6 inch extension
Heat shrink tubing
Mini butane torch
Cordless drill
1.5" hole saw bit
1.5" rubber grommet
Grey RTV gasket maker
Black spray paint
Here's how the MTX-L arrived from Innovate and everything it came with
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/8764/p8110166.jpg
First, I removed my glove box to get to the wiring where I would be mounting the gauge itself.
Then I found a switched 12v source which was supplying my boost and oil pressure guages. Use the volt meter to find your 12v switched power, with the key off, there should be 0 reading, switch key to "on" positon and it should read 12v or close. I'm using 1hand to keep the ground lead in place, hold the positve lead to my 12v switched power and take a pic so that's why it's not reading a full 12v, but you get the idea.
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/7779/p8130169.jpg
2nd, I found a headlight power wire, again supplying the gauges already there so this is where I'll tie into the wire supplying them.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8435/p8130174.jpg
Once I located the neccesary wires, I disconnected the battery
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/3796/p8130167.jpg
This is the oil temp gauge I no longer need, so the Innovate gauge will take its place.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3832/p8130168.jpg
MTX-L in place
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/5936/p8130197.jpg
Red wire on MTX-L goes to switched 12v, which is this green wire supplying 12v for my other 2 gauges.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6889/p8130172e.jpg
Again, white wire on MTX-L goes to headlight wire, which is this thicker white wire supplying switched power for the other gauges lights. This wire works differently for the MTX-L . It dims the display when lights are turned on so it's not too bright/distracting at night. If you don't want the display on the gauge to dim when it's dark and you turn your lights on, then ground this wire to the chassis.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8435/p8130174.jpg
Black wire on MTX-L is the ground wire. Keep it away from radio grounds or anything similar that has a lot of "electrical noise". As per the instructions, it could interfere with MTX-L unit, similar to the reason MAF wiring is shielded.
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/1245/p8130173.jpg
The yellow and brown wire are analog outputs for either your ecu or datalogging, I will be using these later but for now, not neccesary. So I individually heat shrinked them, then heat shrinked them together.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2986/p8130171.jpg
So here's the wires behind the glove box area. I'm not worried about how the wires look now as I have a few more things to do under here, so it will get cleaned up in later this week.
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6654/p8130175.jpg
Before you hook up the actual sensor to the MTX-L, the unit needs to calibrate itself. Plug either the 4ft or 8 ft cable, which has the wideband contained in it, into the gauge. Do not plug the actual O2 sensor in yet. So now that everything is wired up, hook the battery up and switch the car to accessory or on position. The gauge will cycle on lighting up the entire digital readout and sweep the light bar across the enitre spectrum. Then, it will show E2, which is the error code for no sensor, which is great because the O2 sensor not plugged in yet.
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/2744/p8130178.jpg
Then the car gets turned to the "off" postion or just remove the keys. Now is when the O2 sensor gets plugged in and is allowed to sit in the open for a "free air" calibration. So I plugged it in and set it on the box to keep it off the ground.
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/9851/p8130179.jpg
Turn key to the "on" position, no need to start the car. The gauge will show "Htr". This is telling you the sensor is heating up so it can get accurate readings sooner. I took these 2 pics because the method the gauge uses to display the reading, the readout flickers so fast that it appears it is always illuminated, but the camera is fast enough that it catches it in between it pulsing the readout, weird. It only looks like this in a pic. It shows a constant display to the human eye.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6759/p8130181d.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/5170/p8130182s.jpg
After 30-60 seconds it will display the reading which will be 22.4 because that's the gauges upper reading limit of lean and since the gauge is sitting in open air, it's completely lean and that's correct. Now power the car off again and it's time to mount the sensor. You can unplug the sensor and you won't have to recalibrate it as long as you do not power the car on while it is unplugged. If you do turn the ignition to the "acc" or "on", that's ok, just turn car off, plug sensor in again and recalibrate it to the open atmosphere again.
Time to make a hole
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5042/p8130186.jpg
After about 5 minutes it finally punches through. Here you can see the bung that was already in the exhaust for me as well. Score! For those of you who have to make a hole and weld in the bung yourself or take it to a muffler shop, pay attention. The bung must be postioned to either the 3 o'clock or 9o'clock postion. It's okay to be at the 12 o'clock, but it should "NEVER" be positioned at 6 o'clock. The reason for this is 2 fold. One being that when you park your car, condensation will build up in the exhaust and, with the sensor at the bottom of the pipe it will build up on the sensor and corrode it, leading it to send inaccurate reading or foul prematurely, and two, with our cars generally being lowered, you don't want your brand new O2 sensor getting broken off by a speed bump or your driveway. Again for me a score for the bung already being in the right spot.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4614/p8130188.jpg
Painted the hole and applied some gasket maker to keep the rust away.
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/6164/p8130189.jpg
Then a rubber gromet and more rtv.
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/7720/p8130191.jpg
Found this old broken scope cap that I filed a slot in, then used another grommet to help keep the water and debree out.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2938/p8130192.jpg
Slit the small grommet, slipped the wiring into that, generously applied more rtv and placed the whole ensemble in place with some more RTV.
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5471/p8130195.jpg
Then sprayed it all black.
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/1763/p8130196.jpg
Now that everything is mounted, start your car and ensure the gauge cycles properly ensuring you did everything correct. When I was reading up on this wideband, there was debate on wether you should wait to start your car for the gauge to cycle from displaying "Htr" to an actual afr reading or just start it up right away. As per the instructions they advise you just start your car up right away. If your smart and let your car warm up, by that time the O2 will already be displaying an afr reading anyway.
Everything went relatively smoothly especially having the bung already in the exhaust. Had an old broken O2 to keep it plugged. Old on the left, New on the right.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1880/p8130185.jpg
If anyone has any questions on it feel free to ask. I'd also like to point out that I got the MTX-L with the 8ft sensor cable option. Needless to say i have about 4 ft coiled up under the dash but when I use it for dyno tuning it will come in handy having the extra cable. They offer it in a 4 ft cable which would be fine, should be able to mount he gauge any where on the dash with the 4 ft option. Thanks for reading.
So I got the wideband installed and took pics. Went rather smoothly since there was already a bung on the exhaust and I already had a spot for the gauge. Obviously, this was the way I did it but there are many different paths to take as far as gauge placemant, steel O2 bung palcemt, wire routing, etc. Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. But I'll just get right into it.
Tools and items I used:
Wire strippers/cutters
Voltage meter
Crescent wrench
10mm socket
Ratchet with 6 inch extension
Heat shrink tubing
Mini butane torch
Cordless drill
1.5" hole saw bit
1.5" rubber grommet
Grey RTV gasket maker
Black spray paint
Here's how the MTX-L arrived from Innovate and everything it came with
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/8764/p8110166.jpg
First, I removed my glove box to get to the wiring where I would be mounting the gauge itself.
Then I found a switched 12v source which was supplying my boost and oil pressure guages. Use the volt meter to find your 12v switched power, with the key off, there should be 0 reading, switch key to "on" positon and it should read 12v or close. I'm using 1hand to keep the ground lead in place, hold the positve lead to my 12v switched power and take a pic so that's why it's not reading a full 12v, but you get the idea.
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/7779/p8130169.jpg
2nd, I found a headlight power wire, again supplying the gauges already there so this is where I'll tie into the wire supplying them.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8435/p8130174.jpg
Once I located the neccesary wires, I disconnected the battery
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/3796/p8130167.jpg
This is the oil temp gauge I no longer need, so the Innovate gauge will take its place.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3832/p8130168.jpg
MTX-L in place
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/5936/p8130197.jpg
Red wire on MTX-L goes to switched 12v, which is this green wire supplying 12v for my other 2 gauges.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6889/p8130172e.jpg
Again, white wire on MTX-L goes to headlight wire, which is this thicker white wire supplying switched power for the other gauges lights. This wire works differently for the MTX-L . It dims the display when lights are turned on so it's not too bright/distracting at night. If you don't want the display on the gauge to dim when it's dark and you turn your lights on, then ground this wire to the chassis.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8435/p8130174.jpg
Black wire on MTX-L is the ground wire. Keep it away from radio grounds or anything similar that has a lot of "electrical noise". As per the instructions, it could interfere with MTX-L unit, similar to the reason MAF wiring is shielded.
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/1245/p8130173.jpg
The yellow and brown wire are analog outputs for either your ecu or datalogging, I will be using these later but for now, not neccesary. So I individually heat shrinked them, then heat shrinked them together.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2986/p8130171.jpg
So here's the wires behind the glove box area. I'm not worried about how the wires look now as I have a few more things to do under here, so it will get cleaned up in later this week.
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6654/p8130175.jpg
Before you hook up the actual sensor to the MTX-L, the unit needs to calibrate itself. Plug either the 4ft or 8 ft cable, which has the wideband contained in it, into the gauge. Do not plug the actual O2 sensor in yet. So now that everything is wired up, hook the battery up and switch the car to accessory or on position. The gauge will cycle on lighting up the entire digital readout and sweep the light bar across the enitre spectrum. Then, it will show E2, which is the error code for no sensor, which is great because the O2 sensor not plugged in yet.
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/2744/p8130178.jpg
Then the car gets turned to the "off" postion or just remove the keys. Now is when the O2 sensor gets plugged in and is allowed to sit in the open for a "free air" calibration. So I plugged it in and set it on the box to keep it off the ground.
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/9851/p8130179.jpg
Turn key to the "on" position, no need to start the car. The gauge will show "Htr". This is telling you the sensor is heating up so it can get accurate readings sooner. I took these 2 pics because the method the gauge uses to display the reading, the readout flickers so fast that it appears it is always illuminated, but the camera is fast enough that it catches it in between it pulsing the readout, weird. It only looks like this in a pic. It shows a constant display to the human eye.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6759/p8130181d.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/5170/p8130182s.jpg
After 30-60 seconds it will display the reading which will be 22.4 because that's the gauges upper reading limit of lean and since the gauge is sitting in open air, it's completely lean and that's correct. Now power the car off again and it's time to mount the sensor. You can unplug the sensor and you won't have to recalibrate it as long as you do not power the car on while it is unplugged. If you do turn the ignition to the "acc" or "on", that's ok, just turn car off, plug sensor in again and recalibrate it to the open atmosphere again.
Time to make a hole
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5042/p8130186.jpg
After about 5 minutes it finally punches through. Here you can see the bung that was already in the exhaust for me as well. Score! For those of you who have to make a hole and weld in the bung yourself or take it to a muffler shop, pay attention. The bung must be postioned to either the 3 o'clock or 9o'clock postion. It's okay to be at the 12 o'clock, but it should "NEVER" be positioned at 6 o'clock. The reason for this is 2 fold. One being that when you park your car, condensation will build up in the exhaust and, with the sensor at the bottom of the pipe it will build up on the sensor and corrode it, leading it to send inaccurate reading or foul prematurely, and two, with our cars generally being lowered, you don't want your brand new O2 sensor getting broken off by a speed bump or your driveway. Again for me a score for the bung already being in the right spot.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4614/p8130188.jpg
Painted the hole and applied some gasket maker to keep the rust away.
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/6164/p8130189.jpg
Then a rubber gromet and more rtv.
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/7720/p8130191.jpg
Found this old broken scope cap that I filed a slot in, then used another grommet to help keep the water and debree out.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2938/p8130192.jpg
Slit the small grommet, slipped the wiring into that, generously applied more rtv and placed the whole ensemble in place with some more RTV.
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5471/p8130195.jpg
Then sprayed it all black.
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/1763/p8130196.jpg
Now that everything is mounted, start your car and ensure the gauge cycles properly ensuring you did everything correct. When I was reading up on this wideband, there was debate on wether you should wait to start your car for the gauge to cycle from displaying "Htr" to an actual afr reading or just start it up right away. As per the instructions they advise you just start your car up right away. If your smart and let your car warm up, by that time the O2 will already be displaying an afr reading anyway.
Everything went relatively smoothly especially having the bung already in the exhaust. Had an old broken O2 to keep it plugged. Old on the left, New on the right.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1880/p8130185.jpg
If anyone has any questions on it feel free to ask. I'd also like to point out that I got the MTX-L with the 8ft sensor cable option. Needless to say i have about 4 ft coiled up under the dash but when I use it for dyno tuning it will come in handy having the extra cable. They offer it in a 4 ft cable which would be fine, should be able to mount he gauge any where on the dash with the 4 ft option. Thanks for reading.