Help me get my KA running well + fix convertible top. Videos! no reading for the lazy

[1320VR4]

So I took some videos to describe both problems I'm having, some of the wiring issue may be a reason for rough running conditions too? Watch both videos, it's about 10 minutes of your life if your interested in helping.

My hopes are to have this car 100% ship shape by the end of June. It's already fun as hell to drive with the top down, haha. I've got to fix power steering and put in some new lugs/nuts. Really pumped about the project. it's going to be a budget build however it should be pretty nice when done.

Also don't mind me for repeating myself or having brain farts, I got a concussion two days ago so my thought process isn't 100% yet. Also the big connector I forgot what was spliced for is the park/neutral safety switch.

Thanks!

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UPDATE:
Still having this problem although it feels like it has improved slightly, or that could be optimistic thinking.
Thus far:

MAF -- tested in another car, works fine
TPS -- Checked for resistances and voltage and it's all in spec
IACV -- Was pretty gunky, cleaned it out good
Plugs/Wires -- although I havn't swapped them, they look brand ass new and each check out the same
Fuel Filter -- Replaced
EGR Temp Sensor -- Was the culprit for my EGR code, jumped with the resistor
Knock Sensor -- Was definatly bad and caused the Knock code, replaced and good.
Cap and Rotor -- Bolted a new set on today

I don't have ANY codes now and still the same issue. What next? FPR?





http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g265/R34SkylineGTRbhp/?action=view&current=MOV02606.mp4

http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g265/R34SkylineGTRbhp/?action=view&current=MOV02607.mp4

[aznfab213]

replace the knock sensor and check your vacuum lines. Especially the unit next to your exhaust manifold. The black box that is referred to as the aiv unit and the unit attached to the box. There should be a little vac line that will attach to the metal unit that may have come loose. If not, then check other vac lines

[biggie]

Vaccum is my guess on the engine. Make sure all the hoses under TB are blocked well and all holes not being used on intake tube.

For the top, it is normal for the back windows to go down with either top up or down switch. The rear window switches normally go beside the cigarette lighter (assume someone put power mirror switch in its place?).

The top does need to be wired after a 5 speed swap, this thread should have that info:
How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (and other S13s) : 240SX Convertible Forum (http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-5-speed-swap-in-convertibles-and-other-s13s-t77784.html)

From that thread: "looping of the green/blue and brown/yellow. That's just to make the top function"

[1320VR4]

From research I presume knock sensors go quite frequently on these cars?

I'll check the black box, isn't that the one that sits right behind the valve cover?

As I had shown in the video the green/blue and brown/yellow wire should be exactly as it's described in the write up.

[biggie]

Top Motor may be toast. Or check fuses for it. Assuming that you don't hear the pump working when you hit the Top Up/Down buttons.

[1320VR4]

Yeah I don't hear the top motor trying at all, is there a method to jumping it or testing it? Perhaps If I were to manually wire it?

[biggie]

Seems like it should already be wired to work all the time. I would try to find the fuses/relays and inspect them.

You could try finding a direct power source to the motor though.

[1320VR4]

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