black180sx i gotta question about your body work.

[momo_902]

my car has some rust above the wheel wells, just little rust bubbles. how would i go about fixing that. is there any way to do that besides welding? and i also have this big rust hole in my hatch. how could i fix that without welding?

[mbmbmb23]

Above wheel wells, have it cut out and install fender flares. Hatch....goto a junkyard and get a nice one. Thats what I would do anyways.


-m

[black180sx]

grind it off and spray some paint over bare metal for protection. For the rusted hatch, I would juss look for a used wing-less hatch and replace it.

[240trainee]

I couldn't stand the holes in my hatch anymore, so I used the infamous bondo. It'll wok until I find a rust-free hatch, haven't had any luck.

[black180sx]

I couldn't stand the holes in my hatch anymore, so I used the infamous bondo. It'll wok until I find a rust-free hatch, haven't had any luck.

Filling in those holes was a pain in the ass....I placed metal sheets underneath holes and welded them, slapped on some fiber glass and bondo.

[zero.counter]

my car has some rust above the wheel wells, just little rust bubbles. how would i go about fixing that. is there any way to do that besides welding? and i also have this big rust hole in my hatch. how could i fix that without welding?
Tools: Plastic spreaders, sanding block, sanding block assorted sheets of wetsand paper numbers 320-800 and the 1000-2000, a bucket of water or a water hose, fiberglass resin and either the cloth or mat depending on experience, respirator or heavy duty dust masks, Goggles, latex gloves and 1 pair of heavy duty chemical gloves, a ruler, a quarter, 1-2 cans of primer with sealer, wax and silicone remover, a small bin for the resin, some scissors, (2) tack cloths, some shop rags, a cheap paint brush. I got all of this stuff for under $50 (thank god for the dollar store and wal-mart for some items). You can do it any other way, but this worked for me. For the rust removal, a dremel came in very handy for the heavily crusted spots. Pep Boys has a $12 one with the sanding attachments among others for sale. This is optional...PM ME if you have further questions.

I would recommend some 400 grit wetsand paper to remove the paint with less of a chance of leaving cat claw marks or major scratches. Use a water hose on a low level to continuously water the sanding area. Once you are down to the bare metal and have essentially dispersed of the rust, proceed with a some wax and silicone remover to remove all the crap that may remain and dry, then wipe with a tack cloth.

Depending on the size of the hole or holes, will determine whether you would need to fiberglass the hole or putty it. There is a quarter trick I use, where you take a straight edge ruler and a quarter and line the ruler (thin side) up against the hole and see how far the quarter will sink into the hole. If it sinks past the president's nose, then you will need to fiberglass the affected area. Don't fret, it is not that hard at all. It just requires time and layering of strips of fiberglass cloth, resin, cloth, resin, MAT, resin over a period of about 4 hours or so, depending on weather. Make the fiberglassed area as small as possible as it is alot harder to sand once it has cured.

If bondo is the method used, it is relatively simple and would require either layering of the spot with glazing putty or the actual mix of putty and hardener, again depending on the size of the hole and depth. After building the layers of putty needed up to the level of the surrounding area, you cand wetsand with 400 grit down to the normal area until it is glassy smooth to the touch.

Your next step is to us a primer that has a sealant additive. Spray a light even coat that just barely spots the affected area (after masking off unnecessary area) and wait about 15 minutes, all the while cleaning with a tack cloth. Then proceed with the next coat , wait, then about 2 more coats. Be sure to make the coats light and don't rush the job trying a heavy thick coat as it will take longer to dry and prolly sag, looking terrible. Once they have dried completely and your fingernail cannot nick the paint, proceed with some more wetsanding, this time using a 600 grit (sanding block) until the area is smooth once again. Take some time and look for any claw marks or scratches, bumps, holes, depressions (the primer will give you a greater perspective of the situation). If you see some, use a plastic spreader and spot and glazing putty to smear a light coat over the ugly areas. Allow the curing time, then sand once more with 400 grit until glassy smooth. Take a look at the area and if it looks good, move on to the primer step once more.

Once the primer is perfected and looks good, take some 1000 grit wetsand and sand down to an ultra fine smoothness and you are prepped for paint.

[infinitexsound]

u guys are pretty much all wrong on this autobody question.... 400 grit is too high for cutting bondo or even fiberglass.. it would take u days to do it...and 1000 grit to sand down primer thats insane....u know they already sell premixed fiberglass.. with a little bit of bondo mixed in it... its called dynaglass and its waterproof...=)

[zero.counter]

u guys are pretty much all wrong on this autobody question.... 400 grit is too high for cutting bondo or even fiberglass.. it would take u days to do it...and 1000 grit to sand down primer thats insane....u know they already sell premixed fiberglass.. with a little bit of bondo mixed in it... its called dynaglass and its waterproof...=)
HaHa sure....
I have used 400 grit wetsand for creating a bondable surface for good adhesion. I never promoted the "utmost professional quality showmanship" song. If you want me to school you on that, then let me know. The 400 will removes the top layers of paint, giving a very good surface for the paint to stick to. It also saves you from using a normal 320-800 grit with big particles, leaving big rips in the sheet metal and scarring your work area, creating more work for you to fill in with bondo.

As far a sprimer, I don't know what kind you are using, but again this post (my posted info) is regarding a very cheap and efficient way to repair using store bought can primer. I suggested the 1000-2000 be used in the final stages of priming prep which will work down the primer down to a glassy, smooth finish.

As long as constant pressure has been used with either grits, it will not take all day. That sounds like inexperience talking there.

If you are going to suggest dynaglass, you might want to mention the steps involved like prepping, the right sanding tools, ventilation, and what have you.

My suggestion looks like a lot, but it can be done in less than 3 hours with excellent results. I have done it to 2 of my previous cars and my 2 current projects with no problem.

If there are any questions regarding my suggestion, then PM me...anyone.

[infinitexsound]

well lets just say i work at a body shop so... thats enough credibility i can assure u of...u make it sound like doin body work is some futuristic art.. when its not..

lets see rust in the wheel wells.. working on any car.. u might want to clean up the area ur gonna work on with some dish soap and water and a towel....

if u can use a die grinder with a roloc pad and try to get rid of all the rust as much as u can.... ...or if u dont have any able air tools... they do sell chemicals that converts rust into a solid or even primer.. i suggest using something similar to por-15... cause when it dries it, u can scuff it and paint on top of it... but if u take the suggestion of using the die grinder method.. this is what u would do afterwards... mix some dynaglass which is mixed the same way as bondo...same cream hardener..... mix just enough and apply it to the area where ur working on.. then sand with like 40-80 grit when it dries.. and yes its waterproof... after that.. your u dont need primer.. but u might need some etching primer cause u would have some metals thats are exposed from all the sanding that might need the treatment..=)
get a rattle can of rubberized undercoating and spray away.. make sure u tape off the body of ur car, or use something like a bed sheet to cover it.. cause having overspray is just pointless to clean up if it can be avoided. and then ur done when it dries.. as for the hatch dont even bother doing any work to it unless ur gonna keep it... but since ur gonna get a new one =) why waste the effort and materials on a part ur gonna throw away.. and zero... can i come by and see ur cars with a razor blade in hand.. i bet u i can skim the panels and take off sheets of paint...

[zero.counter]

well lets just say i work at a body shop so... thats enough credibility i can assure u of...u make it sound like doin body work is some futuristic art.. when its not..

lets see rust in the wheel wells.. working on any car.. u might want to clean up the area ur gonna work on with some dish soap and water and a towel....

if u can use a die grinder with a roloc pad and try to get rid of all the rust as much as u can.... ...or if u dont have any able air tools... they do sell chemicals that converts rust into a solid or even primer.. i suggest using something similar to por-15... cause when it dries it, u can scuff it and paint on top of it... but if u take the suggestion of using the die grinder method.. this is what u would do afterwards... mix some dynaglass which is mixed the same way as bondo...same cream hardener..... mix just enough and apply it to the area where ur working on.. then sand with like 40-80 grit when it dries.. and yes its waterproof... after that.. your u dont need primer.. but u might need some etching primer cause u would have some metals thats are exposed from all the sanding that might need the treatment..=)
get a rattle can of rubberized undercoating and spray away.. make sure u tape off the body of ur car, or use something like a bed sheet to cover it.. cause having overspray is just pointless to clean up if it can be avoided. and then ur done when it dries.. as for the hatch dont even bother doing any work to it unless ur gonna keep it... but since ur gonna get a new one =) why waste the effort and materials on a part ur gonna throw away.. and zero... can i come by and see ur cars with a razor blade in hand.. i bet u i can skim the panels and take off sheets of paint...

Seeing as how it took you...what, 3 days to come up with that pitiful response, I will fold since I have made my case and my suggestions are sound and unless you can prove them wrong, then...Thanks for playing! :)

[Gladman]

bondo sucks for fixing rust... it just gets pushed out by the rust after time...

hack out the rust and weld in some new sheet... much better IMO.

[infinitexsound]

blah blah blha zero must be some top notch bodyman with ballz of steel seriously.. its not my fault i dont go online much and its not my fault someone taught u the this weird way of doing bodywork... where does it imply to sand primer with 1000 grit sand paper... on a dupont label???? forreal.. dont get all butt hurt.. some people do work in a body shop for a living and others just read about it and learn through word of mouth.. and pitiful blah atleast i made sense...instead of starting some literature club.

[zero.counter]

blah blah blha zero must be some top notch bodyman with ballz of steel seriously.. its not my fault i dont go online much and its not my fault someone taught u the this weird way of doing bodywork... where does it imply to sand primer with 1000 grit sand paper... on a dupont label???? forreal.. dont get all butt hurt.. some people do work in a body shop for a living and others just read about it and learn through word of mouth.. and pitiful blah atleast i made sense...instead of starting some literature club.
It is not my fault you did not finish school and work in a body shop...don't get defensive, it shows fallicy in your character and relates to your insecurities and need to make yourself look like a professional...

[infinitexsound]

blah blah blah blah......need i say more????

[zero.counter]

BTW, I never touted the "self-proclaimed professional" approach, just the D.I.Y. repairs i learned while working 2 years in high school as a bodyman. These are trick for those who do not have the money to afford big jobs. My purpose is to keep the cost down, not visit a pro body shop and make them money to feed their kids and run a business.

I am only on the offensive here and can dance all night if that is what you want...

[zero.counter]

blah blah blah blah......need i say more????
Actually, no...go build a sub-box or something...

[cowbomb]

ducktape then spray it watever color ur car is cheap and affective =P

[infinitexsound]

blah blah blah what ever. if your so smart why do u keep on talkin?. do the right thing walk away.. just like what they taught in grammar school....just because ur in some graduate school, u dont have to always defend yourself when your outwitted.. and just to let u know i did go to college. so dont assume u know everything about a person before you make a statement about them. end of discussion

[justinhustle]

ladies ladies, get yer vagina infections cleared up asap

shesh

[zero.counter]

blah blah blah what ever. if your so smart why do u keep on talkin?.
Hmmm, I have to school you somehow right?

do the right thing walk away.. just like what they taught in grammar school....just because ur in some graduate school, u dont have to always defend yourself when your outwitted..

And how is it that this is so? I was not wrong, you disagreed with my approach. Can you seriously tell me that what I suggested to the thread started was flawed? If not, then I am very sorry...Just because it is unorthodox to YOUR everyday accustomed approach, does not mean that you have to rag on someone else's approach. Calculus and trigonometry are good examples of alternative methods to arriving at the same answer. That was just an example btw...

and just to let u know i did go to college. so dont assume u know everything about a person before you make a statement about them. end of discussion
YAY! Should I clap now or forever hold my piece? You also might want to take shot of your own medicine as far a assumptions. Yea I do...and your point is???

Great day everyone! This was just a skit, so don't get offended! :)

[HyperTek]

question, poor mans over the shelf rear side marker light and antenna shave, can I just fiberglass it to shave it instead of having someone weld it for me?

[240trainee]

question, poor mans over the shelf rear side marker light and antenna shave, can I just fiberglass it to shave it instead of having someone weld it for me?

Yes, you can, you can also use screen and bondo. I know the pro bodymen will dissagree, but, on a poorman's budjet, thats what I do.I wanna spend my money of more go-fast parts :rawk: