Enemy
06-01-2012, 09:42 PM
1991 BMW 850i 6-Speed 165,xxx
CLICK HERE FOR EVERYTHING YOU CAN KNOW ABOUT THE CAR (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1690093)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/Revoldo/c4bf9594.jpg
- No heater, bypassed.
- No AC.
- Paint needs really good polish.
- Needs rear brake pads soon.
- Needs new mufflers.
- Some fuel smell from engine bay. May need consumable fuel system parts replaced.
- Some rear suspension bushings/ball joints are squeaky.
Recently passed VA inspection, good until 4/13!
List of work completed since last 1,000 miles or 8/2011:
- Brake Pressure Accumulator (Brake Bomb)
- Brake Servo Unit Rebuild (Brake Booster)
- Power Steering Pump, ZF Factory Rebuilt
- Misc. Pipes and Hoses for Hydraulic Oil Circuit
- Pentosin Filters (both)
- Brake Stop Light Switch
- Pentosin CHF 7.1 Fill and Bleed
- Brake Fluid Bleed, ATE Super Blue Dot 4
- Fan Clutch, Beck-Arnley
- Fan Blades
- Fan Shroud
- Coolant Expansion Tank, Behr
- Coolant Expansion Tank Cap, Behr
- Coolant Expansion Tank Bleeder Screw, Brass
- Accessory V-Belts (both)
- Air Filters, Both
- All Rubber and Clamps on Air Intakes Replaced
- New MAF (driver's side), Aftermarket
- Oil Filler Cap
- Oil Filter Housing Cap
- Oil Filter Housing Bushings
- Lower Oil Pan Gasket
- Oil Level Sensor O-Ring
- Oil Change w/Oil Filter Kit
- Tie Rods
- Idler Arm
- Alignment
- Interstate MTP-93 Batteries (2)
- Phoenix Motorsport Rear Shock Tower Reinforcements (came with the car)
- Rebuilt MID Computer. All pixels work (came with the car)
I have transmission fluid and differential fluid on stand by, along with 3-spoke steering wheel.
Will also replace camshaft chain tensioner o-ring to solve one minor oil leak.
Exterior:
Pretty good condition. No major dents, few scratches, paint needs a really thorough polish. Missing lower front bumper spoiler. Sunroof cover a bit of rust, but nowhere else. Outer driver side tail light has a dime sized hole, replacement is in the mail.
Interior:
Needs headliner love and one rear speaker cover. Otherwise in very decent condition. Tint film on rear windows cracked/peeling. Driver's seat doesn't adjust properly and the fold-down lever is broken. This seat needs refurb, but the leather is in good condition throughout, no rips or tears or anything like that. Has aftermarket radio with CD Aux input and rearview camera. Older but works. Wiring was a bit of a hack job but it works. Factory CD changer and amp are still there but again, the wiring is all hacked up. Previous ownership is responsible.
Performance:
Car runs very good and with a little more work can be rival the more expensive examples. Shifting requires a little finesse, but once it warms up is pretty smooth. Maybe the transmission and diff fluid swaps I will do will solve that. Idle's fine, drives fine, passed state inspection. Rear suspension a bit noisy. Fuel lines need R&R. Engine oil drip from camshaft chain tensioner o-ring, which I am replacing.
$7,500 is my magic number.
Update 5/31: I am open to offers with at least $4k cash involved and a car worth about $4k in trade (total value $8k or so). I think some would find that to be a reasonable deal.
[email protected]
I really don't want to sell the car after all the work and heart ache, but my pockets are hurting. I can't afford to keep this upright now. I'm having a hard time posting this sale thread.
I bought this car on impulse last summer and took a loan out to buy it. I have a monthly payment which I need to get rid of in order to get my finances in order. This is the reason for the sale. With that said, I can only accept a certified form of payment such as a bank or wire transfer or cashiers check (no personal checks or money orders) or cash. Once Navy Federal Credit Union takes the payment and clears it, they will release the lien on the title and the DMV will let me pick up the paper title. This can happen in 24-48 hours after payment is made. Speaking of the DMV, the title says "not actual mileage" but the car DOES HAVE ACTUAL MILEAGE. When I registered the title, I wrote down more miles than the car actually had (like 164,845 is what I wrote but the car had 164,985 or something like that) and the lady didn't warn me that the mileage I wrote down was less than the title already had. So due to my own mistake, this has happened. I have a copy of the title I turned in which read REAL mileage, and then obviously we will have the actual current title. Otherwise, clean title and no accidents on report. I'm not sure what else I can add or disclose... so I'll just stop it here and answer all questions as they come to me.
Thanks for your time.
CLICK HERE FOR EVERYTHING YOU CAN KNOW ABOUT THE CAR (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1690093)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/Revoldo/c4bf9594.jpg
- No heater, bypassed.
- No AC.
- Paint needs really good polish.
- Needs rear brake pads soon.
- Needs new mufflers.
- Some fuel smell from engine bay. May need consumable fuel system parts replaced.
- Some rear suspension bushings/ball joints are squeaky.
Recently passed VA inspection, good until 4/13!
List of work completed since last 1,000 miles or 8/2011:
- Brake Pressure Accumulator (Brake Bomb)
- Brake Servo Unit Rebuild (Brake Booster)
- Power Steering Pump, ZF Factory Rebuilt
- Misc. Pipes and Hoses for Hydraulic Oil Circuit
- Pentosin Filters (both)
- Brake Stop Light Switch
- Pentosin CHF 7.1 Fill and Bleed
- Brake Fluid Bleed, ATE Super Blue Dot 4
- Fan Clutch, Beck-Arnley
- Fan Blades
- Fan Shroud
- Coolant Expansion Tank, Behr
- Coolant Expansion Tank Cap, Behr
- Coolant Expansion Tank Bleeder Screw, Brass
- Accessory V-Belts (both)
- Air Filters, Both
- All Rubber and Clamps on Air Intakes Replaced
- New MAF (driver's side), Aftermarket
- Oil Filler Cap
- Oil Filter Housing Cap
- Oil Filter Housing Bushings
- Lower Oil Pan Gasket
- Oil Level Sensor O-Ring
- Oil Change w/Oil Filter Kit
- Tie Rods
- Idler Arm
- Alignment
- Interstate MTP-93 Batteries (2)
- Phoenix Motorsport Rear Shock Tower Reinforcements (came with the car)
- Rebuilt MID Computer. All pixels work (came with the car)
I have transmission fluid and differential fluid on stand by, along with 3-spoke steering wheel.
Will also replace camshaft chain tensioner o-ring to solve one minor oil leak.
Exterior:
Pretty good condition. No major dents, few scratches, paint needs a really thorough polish. Missing lower front bumper spoiler. Sunroof cover a bit of rust, but nowhere else. Outer driver side tail light has a dime sized hole, replacement is in the mail.
Interior:
Needs headliner love and one rear speaker cover. Otherwise in very decent condition. Tint film on rear windows cracked/peeling. Driver's seat doesn't adjust properly and the fold-down lever is broken. This seat needs refurb, but the leather is in good condition throughout, no rips or tears or anything like that. Has aftermarket radio with CD Aux input and rearview camera. Older but works. Wiring was a bit of a hack job but it works. Factory CD changer and amp are still there but again, the wiring is all hacked up. Previous ownership is responsible.
Performance:
Car runs very good and with a little more work can be rival the more expensive examples. Shifting requires a little finesse, but once it warms up is pretty smooth. Maybe the transmission and diff fluid swaps I will do will solve that. Idle's fine, drives fine, passed state inspection. Rear suspension a bit noisy. Fuel lines need R&R. Engine oil drip from camshaft chain tensioner o-ring, which I am replacing.
$7,500 is my magic number.
Update 5/31: I am open to offers with at least $4k cash involved and a car worth about $4k in trade (total value $8k or so). I think some would find that to be a reasonable deal.
[email protected]
I really don't want to sell the car after all the work and heart ache, but my pockets are hurting. I can't afford to keep this upright now. I'm having a hard time posting this sale thread.
I bought this car on impulse last summer and took a loan out to buy it. I have a monthly payment which I need to get rid of in order to get my finances in order. This is the reason for the sale. With that said, I can only accept a certified form of payment such as a bank or wire transfer or cashiers check (no personal checks or money orders) or cash. Once Navy Federal Credit Union takes the payment and clears it, they will release the lien on the title and the DMV will let me pick up the paper title. This can happen in 24-48 hours after payment is made. Speaking of the DMV, the title says "not actual mileage" but the car DOES HAVE ACTUAL MILEAGE. When I registered the title, I wrote down more miles than the car actually had (like 164,845 is what I wrote but the car had 164,985 or something like that) and the lady didn't warn me that the mileage I wrote down was less than the title already had. So due to my own mistake, this has happened. I have a copy of the title I turned in which read REAL mileage, and then obviously we will have the actual current title. Otherwise, clean title and no accidents on report. I'm not sure what else I can add or disclose... so I'll just stop it here and answer all questions as they come to me.
Thanks for your time.