Sr20 won't run right after swap need help

[smithrcing17]

Like the title says I'm having issues with my car running right, the idle is constantly up and down and I cannot set ign timing.

Started car with maf and tps plugged in and if barely ran.
Unplugged maf and tps and ran perfect, but stayed at constant 2000rpm
Plugged in tps with maf unplugged and the car died.
Checked consult gauges on nistune with maf plugged in and tps in and the car was sputtering barely able to get to 2500 rpm and maf read 2.4
at 1000 rpm idle it read like 1.6

Plugged timing light gun into black loop on back of coilpack harness, put white mark on tdc on balancer, set gun to 15 btdc and turned CAS and still could not get mark with pin cause idle was never right and mark was all over the place side to side from pin on block. Nistune read that ign timing was jumping from 5-33 btdc
Changed maf to z32 tt(500hp) on nistune and downloaded factory s13 blacktop map and made sure inj size was 370, hit burn button so it saved to ecu
Complete wiring specialties engine Trans harness with z32 maf plug
Tps reads .52 - .54v at idle, tps will only read 4.04v at wot(that was with car turned off and foot to the floor)
Fuel pressure 35-36psi. Isis fpr
Most vac pressure I've seen the car have at idle is 10psi. All vac lines have been triple checked.
Motor was rebuilt before swap everytime gone over
Motor was set to tdc on second notch and CAS slid in. Brand new oem CAS, dots were offset and as slid in they lined up like it tells you to do on frsport
Tried taping on maf to see if it was bad didn't affect sputtering or idle.
I have battery in trunk with circuit breaker and gets disconnected every time car being worked on. Idk if ecu reset is making idle bad?

It is a used nistune ecu, and used n62 maf. Both were bought from reputable zilvia members. I also did some welding in my tubs in engine bay so idk if this could have messed with any sensors? Battery was disconnected whole time

Thanks in advance for any help guys this has been keeping my car in the garage almost 3 extra weeks really getting pissed.

[smithrcing17]

Anyone have any ideas??

[cotbu]

I have a couple of questions 1st. Do you have stock mafs, and stock injectors? not the re manufactured stuff or redrilled crap.

Set the tps to .45v then look at nistune, for the closed tps idle signal.
After that Start the car, regardless of how it's running disconnect the FPR vacuum line and cap it off, set the FPR to 43.5 or 3bar. replace vacuum line.

Is the Nistune ECU is funtioning correctly as well? The ecu light is off while engine is running and you can connect to nistune, apply changes and they have an effect?

I'm gonna assume, you checked for leak, vacuum/boost and all the sensors are working?
Also you don't have a filter on the T, and the AICV has coolant lines.
Get me a video it's mandatory so post it, if from a cellphone turn the camera horizontally! Please!

[smithrcing17]

I don't have stock maf, my swap didn't come with it. They are oem Nissan sr injectors, just put brand new orings on and new Pintle caps.

Ecu works correctly as far as I know, if your talking about the lights on the consult cable then yes that all works correctly and I can make changes and read/write/burn to ecu

I've checker for leaks and found nothing, I put all new vac lines on everything so there is no hole and have clamps on everything. I welded a nipple into hot pipe for boost source for my hallman mbc and then it connect right into waste gate, capped off boost source on tb. I have my synapse bov recirculated back into intake and the vac lines go from vac source on tb then half way I have a t fitting where it goes to boost gauge in cabin and then connects to bov. I have the second vac source on tb connecting to fpr. Nothing is teed off fpr. Rear vac line connecting to brake booster.

I will upload a video today after I get down to the shop. I'll make those changes first then try again

[smithrcing17]

Sr20 vid 1 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgZI64djTow)

originally i set tps to .46 with the car turned off, cranked down tps, started car and it was reading .38, but timing was somewhat close from what nistune was telling me besides the fact it was jumping up and down. then i turned tps while car was running to .44 i couldnt seem to get .45, i stood there 5 minutes trying to tap it barely and couldnt get it so i said screw it, it was either .44 or .46 but you can see how timing went up to around 20-24 at about 1000rpm. rpm didnt seem to move up and down when tps was at lower .38 volt but as i moved to .44 it seemed to very between 800-1000. but as you can see in the second video the cas is completely turned to the side. i placed the cas in their twice now with the second notch on balancer below the block pin and two dots on cas off to the side and they aligned as slid in. i double tripple checked last time i put cas in that i was tdc i cant imagine im off a tooth on smaller cam gear

Sr20 vid 2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxvDgA1CRxc)

[cotbu]

Set the ecu to timing mode, get your timing light and sync the timing 15*, use the IACV screw to lower/raise idle to 850rpm

You'll need to get the engine up to operating temp 80*c, you'll enter closed loop
Idle should be stable at 15* & and 850ish rpm and 02 feedback should be going crazy.
If at you current Tps voltage, nistune say's your at idle it's ok, if NOT you need to find the spot where nistune registers TPS closed. Very important!

Also what's your kvalue and latency?

[smithrcing17]

Bare with me I'm new at all this haha.

I have a mishimoto thermostat, should mine be lower then 80 or is it 80 on all sr? Highest I've seen is like 71.

And also how do you know when your in closed loop, I know there's a bunch of those side menu tables you can open and one says closed loop, not sure what all the numbers mean

Not sure where to find kconstant and latency either lol

[cotbu]

Ok, I know that most people don't know how things on their cars work or is supposed to work. So that being said this is your free one.

Your thermostat by itself, does not lower engine temps! What it does is allow the coolant to flow from the radiator earlier. That's all.

So if you have electrical fans that run all the time, or a clutch fan, put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. You can monitor the temps in nistune. You can safely run the engine to 90*c then unblock the radiator. Otherwise it could take forever, to reach operating temp at Idle, You can even rev the engine a few times after you verify proper oil pressure. (Your working temp would be 80c to 90c Save settings and changes then let the engine cool down.)

Closed loop is when the ecu uses the oxygen sensor,etc to maintain a stoichiometric afr.

So at operating temp and idle the oxygen sensor voltage should be fluctuating, AFR should be 14.2-15.2 est and timing should be 15* with an rpm 850 or so.

You can find Kvalue and latency under the injection control on the left side of Nistune
Version 0.10.13R Kvalue is labeled Injection multiplier