Yes i read (2jzge not 2jzgte)

[Touge180]

I read and couldn't find my answer i was just wondering would the sticky thread for the 2jzgte apply for the 2jzge i assuming it would minus all the turbo parts etc?

[TweakTech]

A 2JZ-GE into an S-chassis is essentially the same as a GTE into an S-chassis as far as physically bolting the engine into the car. The electronics are also very comparable in terms of getting them to function properly.

[2muchboost]

Yup...same motor and trans mount setup, same transmission options......its essentially the exact same as mentioned. I am currently looking to finalize this swap in the next month or so.

[florante rea]

@2muchboost- what is ur current setup right now? I'm debating of i just go ahead and get the 2jzge from an sc300 nom vvti or go jdm aristo gte. I found a great deal on 2jzge longblock. That's why i can't decide since i got a turbo kit for the aristo already:( Good luck with ur build bro.

[TweakTech]

@2muchboost- what is ur current setup right now? I'm debating of i just go ahead and get the 2jzge from an sc300 nom vvti or go jdm aristo gte. I found a great deal on 2jzge longblock. That's why i can't decide since i got a turbo kit for the aristo already:( Good luck with ur build bro.

The SC300 is a rear sump oil pan, you need a front sump for an S-chassis. You can run a 2JZ out of an SC, but you'll need to find a front sump setup from a GS300

[florante rea]

Thanks tweaktech, already know that:) btw u work for dr.tweak right? What's ut contact info?

[TweakTech]

Thanks tweaktech, already know that:) btw u work for dr.tweak right? What's ut contact info?

Haha, ok, just giving a heads up! :) yes, I work for Dr Tweak. I'll PM you our contact info.

[jzslow]

i just finished this swap

the manifold is ugly. but out flows the gte

what tranny? w55/58 shifter will line up perfectly

r154 requires shifter extension cause its short.

i know how to wire the 2jz ge ecu to the chassie what computer are you using and harness is obd1 or 2?

i bought the ebay mounts for 200 shipped and the motor sits as far back possible yet the oil pan clears the subframe and swaybar. and yes you will need the ka or sr rubber pucks as this make is a drop and bolt on.

2jz ge is a torque monster. pulls 5th gear up a hill with speed.

runs a 2 row radiator with pusher fans. the main pully is dam close enough

i have the wiring for the reverse lights and youll need dekota boxes or msd tech converters to run the oem tach with the 2jz ecu. the speedo and temp will not work.

if your running a w series tranny you'll need a 44" drive shaft made measuring from the diff plate to center of the u joint. buy after market chevy u joints and yolk. cant re use the oem. plus oem is weaker.

i have the alternator wiring. which series 2jz are you running?

lmk with pm's or text me if you need a hand 305 890 8013

i choose the ge over the gte. why? flow, port size, torque = hp ratio is well squared off and easier power gains with less cost.

i have a waste spark coil set up on a obd1 series to delete the distributor. there are many write ups.

and one last thing, keep the fuel lines and filter as far away from the headers or manifolds as possible. the 2jz runs 200 - 210 temps by water.

and as tweak stated make sure your running a front sump :)

[florante rea]

Thanks for the info jzslow. If i go ge i seriously wanted to go distributorless or just go with gte head. I searched and its really intimidating doing the coilpaks conversion onto the ge,lol.

[florante rea]

Some block the distributor hole or used the 7m cps. Others drill and plugged the tt cam sensor on the intake side.

[TweakTech]

Just a clarification, Speedometer, Temp, Tach, CEL and oil psi light WILL WORK if the harness is CORRECTLY done. We do this all the time with great success. Also, tach signal comes from the igniter, not the ECU. :)

[jzslow]

Just a clarification, Speedometer, Temp, Tach, CEL and oil psi light WILL WORK if the harness is CORRECTLY done. We do this all the time with great success. Also, tach signal comes from the igniter, not the ECU. :)

tried it. could you clarify this

[TweakTech]

You will need a Dakota Digital SGI-5 adapter to get your speedometer to work. Temp should work just fine as long as you have the signal wire from the single pin temp sensor on the engine running to the corresponding pin on your S-chassis body plugs. oil psi is wired the same way. CEL is a little trickier. You'll want the signal from the ECU to go to the body plug so that it sends the signal to the CEL itself, it does not go anywhere else but from the ECU to the dash harness.

[jzslow]

i tried the temp and it doesnt work, what wires on the chassie are the tach and temp. im still not familiar. plus which ecu are you running, auto gs300 ?

[TweakTech]

i tried the temp and it doesnt work, what wires on the chassie are the tach and temp. im still not familiar. plus which ecu are you running, auto gs300 ?

Do you have an S13 or 14?

[2muchboost]

For now I have the SC300 Non-VVTI Ge motor because I got the motor, trans, ecu, and harness for $250 with 67k miles :)

Tweak is correct about the oil pan....sorry I forgot that part.

Jz is correct, these motors turn the SC 300 sideways when you punch it because of the torque so moving a 240sx is a joke. I too am running the Ebay $200 mount kit with Drift Freaq motor mounts and stock R154 Toyota Trans mount. I had the ebay mounts reinforced a bit just to make sure nothing move/changes once the motor is in. Freed Engineering and Xcessive both make mounts that look very sturdy. Freed's have proven to be very very well designed kits. The Ge motor does run between 180-210 depending on variables. I am currently installing a Mishimoto Thermostat and running Koyo Rad and FAL Twin fans to make sure that the temps are controlled.

I am currently using an R154 trans and its sitting in an S14. I am using a Marlin Crawler VSS for the speedo/tach adaptor. I am not sure on the wiring because I suck at wiring an leave it up to the pro's but from what I understand there is no need to run a Dakota if your using the VSS.

If your planning to make 600whp hp or less there is no need to go distributorless. As a motor of fact I think I read somewhere that the max hp pulled out of a Dizzy driven car was over 800whp. Other than being ugly the Dizzy is plenty capable. Originally I had everything setup for Dizzy Delete (CPS, CPS Bung, COG wheel, Crank Pos Sensor, LS1 coils) but have changed plans and decide to stay stock GE for this year and work on the rest of the car.

As for my plans for the future....I have access to a GTE head so over the winter I will work on the head doing very minimal upgrades and planning on beefing up my R154 with all of the MC parts that I bought. My biggest concern for when I drop the turbo in is to find an adequate location where I can draw oil from to feed the turbo. I have seen some people run it from the from the Oil Filter location either via sandwhich plate or modification of the bango bolt. There is also the option of tapping the Driver Side of the block but thats something I would leave up to the pro's for the most part.

I will make a build thread once I have time away from work to get things going. I have everything I need just no time to do any work.

[jzslow]

Do you have an S13 or 14?

90 se coupe with hud. plus my cluster flickers when driving, any insight ppl?

For now I have the SC300 Ge motor because I got the motor, trans, ecu, and harness for $250 with 67k miles :)

Tweak is correct about the oil pan....sorry I forgot that part.

Jz is correct, these motors turn the SC 300 sideways when you punch it because of the torque so moving a 240sx is a joke. I too am running the Ebay $200 mount kit with Drift Freaq motor mounts and stock R154 Toyota Trans mount. I had the ebay mounts reinforced a bit just to make sure nothing move/changes once the motor is in. Freed Engineering and Xcessive both make mounts that look very sturdy. Freed's have proven to be very very well designed kits. The Ge motor does run between 180-210 depending on variables. I am currently installing a Mishimoto Thermostat and running Koyo Rad and FAL Twin fans to make sure that the temps are controlled.

I am currently using an R154 trans and its sitting in an S14. I am using a Marlin Crawler VSS for the speedo/tach adaptor. I am not sure on the wiring because I suck at wiring an leave it up to the pro's but from what I understand there is no need to run a Dakota if your using the VSS.

If your planning to make 600whp hp or less there is no need to go distributorless. As a motor of fact I think I read somewhere that the max hp pulled out of a Dizzy driven car was over 800whp. Other than being ugly the Dizzy is plenty capable. Originally I had everything setup for Dizzy Delete (CPS, CPS Bung, COG wheel, Crank Pos Sensor, LS1 coils) but have changed plans and decide to stay stock GE for this year and work on the rest of the car.

As for my plans for the future....I have access to a GTE head so over the winter I will work on the head doing very minimal upgrades and planning on beefing up my R154 with all of the MC parts that I bought. My biggest concern for when I drop the turbo in is to find an adequate location where I can draw oil from to feed the turbo. I have seen some people run it from the from the Oil Filter location either via sandwhich plate or modification of the bango bolt. There is also the option of tapping the Driver Side of the block but thats something I would leave up to the pro's for the most part.

I will make a build thread once I have time away from work to get things going. I have everything I need just no time to do any work.

for oil feed get a multi port fitting into the oil pressure sending unit location; there ull the sensor back on one port and fitting/ line one the other.

as far as your info about the dizzy. pro stock and outlaw dragsters run dizzys, iv seen them run 800hp but with msd cap, wires n system. if your turbo intake pipe interfere but need to move, get a 94-96 v6 dizzy cap. it sets the wires sideways and it low profile leaves room. the firing order is simple and online.

last night speaking to a member i mentioned to him the the brake line must be adjusted and moved on the master cylinder. that said be EXTREMELY careful not the crack them/

i think we should all make a list on this forum and a write up. my swap is completed since last month, even drove 13 hour back to fl

[2muchboost]

Correct about the upgrading the caps and wires running at high high HP. ClubNA-T had a few guys running serious power with completely stock GE motors and necessary bolt ons. For the average Joe you will not need to ditch the dizzy. You could also "clock" the turbo manifold as others have done to give them the little bit of space they need. Running the smaller dizzy cap is still a great idea as is running a custom setup like Sam (forget username) was running.....I believe it was a Mitsubishi setup customized to work.

I agree that we should make a list on of necessary items. I will def make a build thread with as much detail as I can to help others. I will not be able to help with any of the wiring as I will allow the pros to do all of that stuff. The rest I will be handling on my own for the most part.

BTW the same setup that I am installing for temp control is the same setup that one of the guys running 700+whp is using down in the south with absolutely no issues and the temps stay between 190-200.

[florante rea]

I just picked up an sc300 2jz. I myself will mate the gte head. The dizzy delete is just to much work involved. First state motorsports are experts on the dizzy delete if all the ge head guys go this route. Dan is legit. Check them out:)

[Touge180]

Wow thanks guys I got a pm and forgot all about the thread lol.

[2muchboost]

Not too many of us going this route so sharing information and troubleshooting together surely makes things more feasible.
BTW by keeping the GE block with stock internals, using a GTE HG, and a GTE head......someone calculated for me that the Compression Ratio should be about 9:2:1....compared to the 8:5.1 for the GTE. Hope that information is correct lol

[Touge180]

Would you use a factory GTE HG or another brand?

[florante rea]

Factory gte hg are mhg- no need for fancy brands.

[Touge180]

Thanks alot causing I was thinking aftermarket for sure.

[2muchboost]

Factory has proven effective even at high HP....as noted before no need for fancy brands. Just a simple OEM TT HG.

[jzslow]

for a good reliable 400 hp DD na-t id say new tt hg or cometic 2mm (proven to hold) and arp head studs (150$) torqued at 90 lbs, were all bullet proof.

[Touge180]

I will deft be picking up the factory tt hg and arp studs. Not until later though im going to get the motor and a get it in the car and running first lol.

[florante rea]

Get some factory tt hg, arp rod bolts, arp headbolts, acl/ clevite main- rod bearings, and if u have a budget on forged pistons go for it. stock rods are strong already. as for the head, get new valvespring/ retainers/keepers/ valve seals and good decent cams. Depends on your budget and goals for the car.

[jzslow]

hey guys, some of you been calling me and reminded me, I have pictures now uploading, ecm and ecm harness chassis plug (lk1-2) pin pinouts for:

tachometer
watertemp
fuel pump relay
grounds
Overdrive
ECT POWER MODE
constant 12v
ignition 12v
switched 12v for ecm harness via lk1 plug

the pinouts ARE the same for the AUTOMATIC Sc300 obd1 and Gs300 obd1 BUT NOTE, the wire colors may differentiate between both

now ill need someone to email me a pic the ecm plugs and chassis plug for you guys running the sc300 harness

[JZ78]

Very informative, ( yes I know its old)