Turbo Bog/ Timing Issues

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Alright, I KNOW the standard answers:
1. Check plug condition/ gap
2. Check for boost leaks (what's the cheapest way to do this, budget is slim right now?)
3. Check for good grounds
4. Check TPS and MAF

Anyway, I'm the 3rd owner of this 240sx since it was swapped. It's a '93 SE with HICAS and an s13 SR20DET swap. I BELIEVE that it's all stock SR20, but I can't swear as to whether the fuel pump is KA or SR. When I took ownership the transmission was blown (damn fragile 3rd gear), the turbo was barely hanging on the manifold (whomever did the swap neglected the anti backout plates), and there were vacuum leaks galore.
I have replaced yards of vacuum lines, swapped another JDM tranny (thanks to the eBay seller from miami, $300 shipped, what?!), and repaired the turbo gap. She has always bogged at <2500-3k rpms unless I kept to <50% throttle, so I decided to start looking into it. Idle was a little high and timing felt a little off. When I pulled the TPS, idle jumped to about 1600 RPM. Pulled that down, and then checked timing..... It was about 2.5-3" PAST the 20*BTDC mark. After pulling my jaw off the ground, I adjusted it to around 15-17*BTDC. Idle feels good, but ANY boost whatsoever now results in backfiring and bogging to the point that it almost stalls.
Sorry for the wall of text, I'll check the plugs in the morning (it's dark and the engine was a smidge warm), but the timing thing didn't seem to match the dozens of Google results for "SR20DET bogs under boost".

Thanks.,
Psych0

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Well, was hoping for a little direction by now. :(
Oh well, I've got a few things that are free to check.
Also, I know everyone probably has one of the FSM pdfs floating around. I got sick of the one I grabbed being just images and OCR'd it. If anyone needs one that's actually searchable, hit me up.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

OK, 1,3&4 were a little big on the gap (about .035), 2 I must have forgotten to gap entirely, it was around .045. #2 smelled a little of fuel (go figure). I've got pix, maybe you plug readers can give me some pointer from them. I'm running NGK BKR7EIX-11 plugs.
#1
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4LiC_ulYR-k/T60kZ9viDFI/AAAAAAAACN4/QuWr4Xd3S6Q/s804/2012-05-11+10.09.40.jpg

#2
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BpqiKlKXuHk/T60kZ6YjGfI/AAAAAAAACN8/UZDso5ApN_0/s804/2012-05-11+10.12.28.jpg

#3
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bvW_arfhvlE/T60ka9IBQdI/AAAAAAAACOE/ze55v70QlVQ/s804/2012-05-11+10.17.04.jpg

#4
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6C__U4Rk_Wg/T60kbqPw1II/AAAAAAAACOQ/PU4FDl52qEw/s804/2012-05-11+10.20.26.jpg

Also, I snapped a pic of the tops of the coilpacks because I read that coloration of those can be telling too.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HerRDNPRbaI/T60kcxaOqaI/AAAAAAAACOY/QquJ4b-Eve4/s1072/2012-05-11+10.27.02.jpg

Thanks goes to anyone who's looking at these to give some advice.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Hey, getting mixed messages on leak testing.
Can I just pull off the MAF and plug it there with a PVC cap that has a 1/4" schrader valve in it and pressureize the whole system; or do I need to do a bunch of disconnection and cap it at the inlet and right before the TB?

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Uh, could the bogging have to do with sucking in unmetered air?
I started pressurizing the system and the turbo side of the inlet neck started whistling like a balloon when you fill it up and stretch the neck.

Also, does anyone happen to have a spare for sale? Esp close to Chattanooga?

[di-devol]

Get a wideband stat. Your plugs look lean, the tips of them look horrible.

Get new plugs, gap to .028, pull the fuel pump and check that it's at least a Walbro, if not, get a walbro, install, new plugs, better gap, report back.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Get a wideband stat. Your plugs look lean, the tips of them look horrible.

Get new plugs, gap to .028, pull the fuel pump and check that it's at least a Walbro, if not, get a walbro, install, new plugs, better gap, report back.

Thx. I'd say I'm lean due to the leak at the compressor inlet. Sadly, this means that she's gonna be parked for a while, I simply lack the funds to even buy the new plugs currently. Short hours at work FTL

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Hey, I found the compressor inlet gasket I need several places online (I can only get it locally buy buying a complete turbo gasket kit for a 2nd get Eclipse GS-t). Where's the best place to pick up gaskets and parts, or is it just where ever happens to be cheapest?

thx

[gerardogomez0809]

OK, 1,3&4 were a little big on the gap (about .035), 2 I must have forgotten to gap entirely, it was around .045. #2 smelled a little of fuel (go figure). I've got pix, maybe you plug readers can give me some pointer from them. I'm running NGK BKR7EIX-11 plugs.
#1
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4LiC_ulYR-k/T60kZ9viDFI/AAAAAAAACN4/QuWr4Xd3S6Q/s804/2012-05-11+10.09.40.jpg

#2
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BpqiKlKXuHk/T60kZ6YjGfI/AAAAAAAACN8/UZDso5ApN_0/s804/2012-05-11+10.12.28.jpg

#3
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bvW_arfhvlE/T60ka9IBQdI/AAAAAAAACOE/ze55v70QlVQ/s804/2012-05-11+10.17.04.jpg

#4
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6C__U4Rk_Wg/T60kbqPw1II/AAAAAAAACOQ/PU4FDl52qEw/s804/2012-05-11+10.20.26.jpg

Also, I snapped a pic of the tops of the coilpacks because I read that coloration of those can be telling too.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HerRDNPRbaI/T60kcxaOqaI/AAAAAAAACOY/QquJ4b-Eve4/s1072/2012-05-11+10.27.02.jpg

Thanks goes to anyone who's looking at these to give some advice.

Bro I'm having the same issue on my CA18DET. I'm running
NGK BKR6EIX-11 with the yapping they came w/which is .41. I guess I have to get the ngk's with level 7 heat and gap them @ .28 and upgrade my fuel pump. Hopefully this goes away


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[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

I had a time finding an actual Nissan part #for the 2 hole compressor inlet gasket. I think this number is superseded, but it will at least cross reference at a dealer: 14465-40p02
The gasket isn't listed on any of the exploded diagrams I found, and almost everyone only lists their in house part #. That wouldn't be a problem, but everyone wants $10-25 to ship a $6 gasket!

[gerardogomez0809]

Bro I'm having the same issue on my CA18DET. I'm running
NGK BKR6EIX-11 with the yapping they came w/which is .41. I guess I have to get the ngk's with level 7 heat and gap them @ .28 and upgrade my fuel pump. Hopefully this goes away


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was trying to find out if my ecu was giving me any codes but just threw the 5 5 so no problems there but I did discover that my car is running w/an ecu for a ca18det automatic and not a 5spd so @least that explains the performance in rpm's through all the gears (I think)


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[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Alright, the part # for the compressor inlet gasket has changed every so slightly. It is A4465-40p02. That is for a T28 on a 300ZX, because I couldn't find a Nissan # for a T25. Evidently, the studs are spaced ever so slightly wider on a T28, I had to use a round file and remove ~1.5-2.5 mm of material, keyholing the bolt holes. The inlet hole, however, was identical. The old gasket looked like the same material as a factory exhaust mani gasket, but all the silver material was gone from time past. The new one looked like a paper gasket with a black ring in it.
http://www.czp.us/cart/images/2023l.jpg
Do I need to let the turbo get hot to seal this gasket before pressure testing?

Now I need to put everything back together, and get my cap back in the filter neck end of things. Maybe I can find leaks PAST the turbo this time :-/

Assume I'm on a budget (like seriously), what Wideband and AFR meter should I purchase? Is there on that will drop in to the regular O2 hole and let me connect the ECU and my meter?

I have yet to have time to pull the fuel pump to see which one is in there. Hopefully this morning.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Pulled the fuel pump. I have a Nissan pump, but from what I'm finding, it's stock for an CA18DET S13. The part# is: a42-646017. Thoughts? I really don't have the $85 for a walbro, but neither do I want to grenade an engine.

EDIT: NVM, found the specs, this fuel pump flows a measly 75 lph. Looks like my girl is sitting for a bit longer. Also, should I be able to pump up the intake and it hold pressure indefinitely or is it ok if it fades down from 5 PSI-0 over 5 minutes or so?

[kouki180sx88]

i dont like walbros
they have issues with burning out if you ran kit low on gas a few times

get a SARD or an AEROMOTIVE stealth
the stealth is about 130-140
the sard is about 200-250

they are well worth the money

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

i dont like walbros
they have issues with burning out if you ran kit low on gas a few times

get a SARD or an AEROMOTIVE stealth
the stealth is about 130-140
the sard is about 200-250

they are well worth the money

As much as I'd love to take your advice, that's almost 2x what I've found 240sx walbro kits for. If/when I burn up the walbro, I'll let you say "told ya so" and maybe I'll be in a position to buy one of the others. I don't typically run a tank dry b/c I used to drive '90s Chevy trucks, and they had a habit of puking fuel pumps after a single dried tank.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Just struck me a few minutes ago, between too much gap in the plugs, unmetered air at the compressor inlet, and a paltry 75 lph fuel pump... I have no idea how an sr20 is supposed to run. Pretty exited to get her running right!

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

OK, so just trying to plan for my luck, I'm going ahead an planning that my FPR is going to puke with the upgraded fuel pump. I don't have $200 for an AFPR, so I'm looking at my options. I found a complete Tomei 185001 kit for about $99, does anyone have any experience with this unit? Also, I found a seller at Ebay UK who has stock units (stamp# A44-000G55) that I can get for around $52 shipped.
Again, I'm tight on fundage, but I just spent $800 for tires all the way around before I realized I had serious AFR issues. So, while I can't afford the best of the best parts, I really hate to see her just sitting in the driveway.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

http://coopertrooper.blogg.se/images/2010/rageface_70053286.jpg

ARGH!! They sent me the right accessories, but the wrong pump. They sent me a Walbro GSL392 instead of the intank pump.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Well, spam aside, I emailed the seller, and already received an apology and a tracking number for the replacement unit. Well be updating my sig with a store link. I anticipated at least a little haggling. A+ customer service.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

OK, got my walbro in (we won't discuss how long it took me to realize that my solder gun had 2 heat settings :facepalm: ). Can I put my pressure gauge in between the fuel filter and the hardline that snakes through the intake manifold, or does it have to go in between that hardline and the fuel rail?


EDIT: NVM, found it in another thread. I was looking at that 2" of hose in between the hardline and the rail trying to figure out how in the world I would get a gauge in there.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Alright, New pump in place, pressures look pretty good. A few things:

1. I still have a bog under 2500 RPMs if I go past 50-75% throttle, but last time I tested the intake I was still seeping boost (it would lose 5 lbs across 60-90 seconds). However, past 2500 rpms I can romp it in 2-5 and it screams. I think the remaining boost leakage is due to standard hose clamps vs. tbolts. I can't afford $6 / clamp to replace them right now, though.

2. I have a slight hesitation in throttle response. Think 03 Ford Explorer Drive by wire system and you've got it. What causes this?

3. My Fuel pressure did not drop with the vacuum line hooked up, but it does increase properly. What does this mean?

4. No, I still don't have a wideband. I don't have $200 + price to have a bung installed (how I wish I had the money for even a 110v Lincoln buzzbox....) burning a hole in my pocket currently.

5. I also don't currently have the $35 to replace the plugs. Could my crispy plugs be causing any/ all of these issues?

Thanks.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

One more dumb question. If the odo and tach work, but the speedo doesn't, does that indicate a bad speedo? I have an analog cluster. From what I've read, it seems that VSS and wiring issues tend to effect the speedo AND odo.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

OK, so she was running horrid after putting timing at 15* BTC according to timing light, so I put it back to where it was (judging by the clean spots on the dizzy, has been that way from factory), and it runs like a scalded dog again. Someone shed some light on this. According to the light, at both the test loop and the + lead for the #1 plug, this sets it at somewhere in the neighborhood of 35* BTC.....