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View Full Version : melted injector? wtf?


jeremyuhh
04-26-2012, 08:47 PM
i have a 1993 ka24de 5 speed coupe
#28 ECU
bought the car august 2011 with 146k miles
slammed on stance coils, reason stated cause everyones telling me since my car is slammed, parts are being stressed and causing shit to go bad -_-
harness relocated above the fender, but i know that hareness has nothing to do with the engine wiring... right?
drifted once, march 24 at the oval at willow
currently has 158k miles, car drove absolutely perfect until...

injector #1 just stopped working like 2 weeks ago. i was about to leave, started my car and it took a while, finally cranked and turned over and it sounded like a boxer engine.

i replaced it with a used injector, cylinder #1 was back in business car was fine.
died again after a couple of miles of driving.
pulled it out, looked like this:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/willbreakforrice/1f2f0b16.jpg

i replaced it again with another used injector, #1 started again and car worked fine.
drove about 5 miles, turned the car off and on about 3 times, on the 4th attempt i noticed it died again.
pulled it out, same shit:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/willbreakforrice/DSC_0130-1.jpg

tested all injectors
#1 - 14ohms
#2 - 11 ohms
#3 - 14 ohms
#4 - 11 ohms

tested pigtails
#1 - 12v
#2 - 12v
#3 - 12v
#4 - 12v

all spark plugs are good
all spark plug wires were grounded and showing spark

all i could think of is bad wiring, bad ecu, or just shitty luck with injectors. wtf is this lol

Jesse SR20
04-27-2012, 08:24 PM
If the plastic is truly melting, then heat is the issue. I'm suspecting maybe a backfire up the intake due to timing. But you'd think that would affect all injectors. Not to mention your car would run like crap.

Check your compression. If there is a sealing issue with the intake valve on that cylinder, then hot gasses are escaping back up the intake manifold and torching the injector.

cmg
04-27-2012, 09:06 PM
Just lookes like a damaged lower o ring to me. Pretty common.

tabasco122
04-27-2012, 09:09 PM
Just lookes like a damaged lower o ring to me. Pretty common.

he replaced it and it came back a few minutes later.

cmg
04-27-2012, 09:14 PM
Maybe it was ripped when installing. Dont really look burned from the pictures. Was the o rings oem nissan or aftermarket? Ive had many problems with aftermarket lower o rings.

Taylor008
04-28-2012, 01:35 AM
Is something stuck in the fuel rail?

mxexux
04-28-2012, 01:52 AM
Replace all the injectors. The resistance should not differ more than 1/2 an ohm between any of the injectors.

jeremyuhh
04-28-2012, 04:08 AM
Maybe it was ripped when installing. Dont really look burned from the pictures. Was the o rings oem nissan or aftermarket? Ive had many problems with aftermarket lower o rings.

the o-rings are burnt, but the plastic portion above it is.

Is something stuck in the fuel rail?

dont think so, cause im still getting gas to cylinders 2, 3, and 4. and when i put in a new injector for #1, it works fine until it decides to stop.

Replace all the injectors. The resistance should not differ more than 1/2 an ohm between any of the injectors.

yea thats what im planning on doing.


when installing injectors, do i need to pull the fuel rail off every time?

and if i cant press them in with my bare hands, what a better way to do it rather than using an extension and 8mm socket

and what should i lube the o-rings with? ive read gas, oil, vaseline, and specific o-ring lube.

G5SR20240
04-28-2012, 07:20 AM
That's crazy, looks like bad seating

KFLS14
04-28-2012, 03:19 PM
the o-rings are burnt, but the plastic portion above it is.



dont think so, cause im still getting gas to cylinders 2, 3, and 4. and when i put in a new injector for #1, it works fine until it decides to stop.



yea thats what im planning on doing.


when installing injectors, do i need to pull the fuel rail off every time?

and if i cant press them in with my bare hands, what a better way to do it rather than using an extension and 8mm socket

and what should i lube the o-rings with? ive read gas, oil, vaseline, and specific o-ring lube.

-use vaseline if available if not oil is fine, both upper/lower seals.
-when installing all you do is remove the injector off the rail, no need to remove the entire rail. Injectors should seat most of the way with minimal force and then just alternate between both bolts to tighten injector cap down.
-use brand new oem orings, if the injectors have been sitting around the orings have detoriated and hardened and will be suspect to cracking/leaking in no time.

cmg
04-28-2012, 11:50 PM
That's crazy, looks like bad seating

Bingo

sckbllsmsglngth

s14boy
04-29-2012, 12:28 AM
id buy a new set of oem o-rings also inspect the inlet in the fuel fail for that incector like taylor008. im asumming he meant what im saying. my guess is the rings were old and dried out(if they were sitting out) or they were not properly seated/installed.

good luck with your car and let us know if you figure anything eles out.

-Mike

jeremyuhh
04-29-2012, 11:54 AM
id buy a new set of oem o-rings also inspect the inlet in the fuel fail for that incector like taylor008. im asumming he meant what im saying. my guess is the rings were old and dried out(if they were sitting out) or they were not properly seated/installed.

good luck with your car and let us know if you figure anything eles out.

-Mike


yea i think it was just bad seating.

the first and second time i replaced it, i just tightened the cap screws one at a time. weird thing is installed injector #3 the same way, since i replaced that too the first time my cylinder went out cause it was reading 49 ohms. and that cylinder and injector is fine.

on the third time i used a 7mm socket and extension for injector #1 and i heard it pop in.

i did that 3 days ago and the car is running fine.