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landins13
04-25-2012, 12:54 PM
I am running a VVTI 1JZ with a toyota R154 transmission and I wanted to have a working OEM speedometer. I knew i would need a Dakota Digital signal converter but i didnt realize that there is almost no information on how to do this anywhere on the internet.

After spending about 3 weeks compiling wiring diagrams and doing research I was able to get all the information I needed to do this properly and with everything working as it should.

Now I of course had to make things harder on myself because I wanted to swap my analog cluster with digital HUD cluster but that does not effect the overall information or any of the wiring. It just made things a pain for me.


Disclaimer:
This is not the cheapest way to do this but in my opinion it was the only way i would be comfortable. Also there are plenty of other threads out there showing how to remove a cluster so i did not clutter this up with info on doing that. If you are not comfortable de-pinning oem connectors or running your own wiring, find someone who is or have a shop do the install. i created this thread simply to compile the information it took me a good bit of time to sort out.

To start the first thing you will need to do is identify the type of R154 transmission you have as well as what speed sensor is in it.

If you have an older R154 you more than likely have a mechanical sensor. this is not a problem since you can purchase a part from Marlin Crawler (http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/parts-upgrade/vehicle-speed-sensor-mci) that will convert the signal to a digital one that can be used. If you have a newer R154 you can use the Rear speed sensor that is located on the right side of the transmission near the driveshaft.


Some of the options look like these:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/images/vss_all_1000.jpg

This is the rear ABS (Speed) sensor on the newer R154 such as mine.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/landins13/S13%20Build%202011-2012/2012-04-19_21-26-15_539.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/landins13/S13%20Build%202011-2012/2012-04-19_21-26-32_951.jpg

The first big concern with wiring these is that 9/10 times your R154 will not have a connector and pigtail on the speed sensor. After pursuing it several different ways I was eventually able to find a parts guy at a local lexus dealership that was able to get me just the connector and 100mm leads for it. Every other dealer i talked to told me i had to buy a $2000 engine harness or they gave me the wrong part number.

the Marlin Crawler unit as well as the OEM Rear Speed sensor both use the same 3 pin connector. This connector is the same on used on the R154 as well as W58 transmission found in the SC300 and IS300. The whole point in using it is that its weatherproof and plugs straight in.

These are the part numbers to order them:
90980-11143
82998-12440

This is what you get:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/landins13/S13%20Build%202011-2012/2012-04-24_14-01-38_284.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/landins13/S13%20Build%202011-2012/2012-04-24_14-01-55_642.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/landins13/S13%20Build%202011-2012/2012-04-24_14-00-55_129.jpg

In addition you will need a converter box from Dakota Digital the unit you want is the SGI-5. You will need one of these to run most aftermarket speedometers as well.


Once you have these things the next portion to address is the wiring itself. you can use the oem wiring harness if you choose to. Personally I made my own harness to make it easier to trouble shoot.

WIRING

I made this lead about 3' long and located the control box in my arm rest and ran the wiring through the top of the excess space next to the shifter straight down to the VSS

The wiring is as follows:

VSS Connector Pin 3: Signal to Input on SGI-5 (-)
VSS Connector Pin 2: Ground (-) to Sensor Ground on SGI-5
VSS Connector Pin 1: 12v Switch power from fuse box

From the SGI-5 the wiring is straight forward, just run wires from the control box to the appropriate sections:

http://i1.frsimg.com/images/detailed_images/DakotaDigital_SGI-5.jpg
http://www.dakotadigital.com/cartimages/prdp_1333.jpg

You will use output 1

Output1: Yellow wire w/ Blue stripe on the cluster sub harness
Power: 12v switch power
Ground: Good chasis ground


The last wire you are concerned with is Yellow w/ Black stripe and this is on the cluster sub harness as well. This wire needs the be grounded to the same spot you run the ground wire for the SGI-5 Unit

This is the harness I made already wired into the SGI-5, I made a point of using different color wires so that i wouldnt mix anything up and this worked 100% the first time i plugged it in.


http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/landins13/S13%20Build%202011-2012/2012-04-24_15-33-14_694.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/landins13/S13%20Build%202011-2012/2012-04-24_15-33-07_763.jpg


After you re-install your cluster you will need to calibrate the SGI-5 so that the speedo reads correctly.It seems more complicated than it really is but here is the easiest way to set it.

All switches should be off. Use either a friend driving next to you or radar to make sure its accurate. Personally i downloaded a GPS speedo to my phone and used that. Drive at a steady speed and just use the UP and Down buttons on the SGI-5 until the speedo becomes accurate.

It is possible to set the course and fine adjustments without the car moving but either way you will need to drive the car first to be able to determine what your correction should be. The equation to get this will be:

(Actual speed / Speedo Reading) x Current Ratio = New Calculation Ratio


The end result and goal is an accurate and properly functioning factory cluster.

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/landins13/S13%20Build%202011-2012/2012-04-25_12-58-17_26.jpg


Quick Reference Parts/Price list:
18 Gauge wire whatever colors/color you want. I used red black blue and white
Dakota Digital SGI-5 (http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/category_id=311/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd126.htm) Cost =$80-$85
Lexus/Toyota 82998-12440 Cost $15
Lexus/Toyota 90980-11143 Cost $15
Marlin Crawler Speed Converter (http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/parts-upgrade/vehicle-speed-sensor-mci) Cost= $50

mrpeanut
07-02-2012, 07:18 PM
helpful write up :) some of the photobucket photos are missing :( could you fix this??

nu_born
07-03-2012, 01:21 PM
^ what he said. This write-up was very much needed, I've been reading about all this Dakota digital non-sense but wasn't real sure on how to make any of this work.

landins13
07-19-2012, 07:18 AM
pictures fixed and post updated.

landins13
07-23-2012, 10:19 PM
putting this back to the top, ive gotten a couple pm's asking me if i would fix the links and I already did.

BiG MiKE86
09-19-2012, 08:22 PM
Great information thanks!

Mofuhcka
09-21-2012, 10:09 AM
This is what Ive been looking for! Will this work for the needle speedo too?

cole d
10-17-2012, 11:34 AM
I Luv U, best write up EVER

landins13
10-24-2012, 06:14 AM
This is what Ive been looking for! Will this work for the needle speedo too?

this will work for whatever speedo you use including most aftermarket units. Calibration is the same for all of the oem speedos but will vary with aftermarket ones.

Big Zee
10-24-2012, 09:18 AM
This is an awesome writeup!!
with the speedo working does the trip and odometer work as well ?
sent this to my favorites. I'll need it for my 1jz swap :)

landins13
10-24-2012, 09:48 AM
No idea actually my odometer is frozen. was on my analog cluster too when I had a SR. I would assume that since the odometer spins based on the speedometer that it should be fine as long as your odometer isnt broken like mine.

Flipnirish
10-30-2012, 11:41 PM
Good write up!

tapdeznutz
11-05-2012, 06:25 PM
subscribed

terrance john
04-10-2014, 08:34 PM
Hey man what did you do to get your tach to work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Black R
07-03-2014, 11:30 PM
^ Dakota digital also has a tach converter.

YoshiFD3S
12-17-2014, 11:27 AM
If you use an AEM EMS V1/V2 for your ECU, you won't need the Dakota tach converter.

I've learned that the AEM has options in the software where you can configure your tachometer signal by choosing your vehicle, so that it does the conversion for you.

There is a "TACHO" wire (Pin 38A) where you will just splice that wire to your car's tachometer wire from there and the software will do the rest. No additional hardware needed.

I've got a running and driving 2JZ-swapped FD myself running an R154 so I'm right in the thick of things, myself.

:)

Bashar_finalstage
04-29-2015, 01:38 AM
does anyone happen to know how to make it work with a 2jzge with w58 in my s13 thank you

Gamm
09-07-2016, 07:59 AM
Wow! Great Post! Bro.
I will to put swap 1J in my S13, and I really want to do this!
Thank you for the info! :-)

nomoremrriceguy
11-02-2016, 01:51 PM
How did you wire it in to the actual cluster?