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View Full Version : Halp! Lack of power.. Oil in down pipe.. Lots of smoke coming out of exaust


BlueMissle sx
04-24-2012, 10:40 AM
So i have a 1990 240sx with an sr20det pretty much all stock.. my car starts up fine but when i drive it the car smokes like mad out the exhaust.. :trogdor: Due to the oil spilling into my down pipe burning.

Im positive its not my Turbo because i just did a swap with another t25 and it ran perfect on the car that it was on before.

Lack of power: I have lost a lot of power ive been looking around on the web and stuff seems like bad valve seals? Im hoping its that and not something Super bad.. :facepalm:
and i did a oil change recently and my oil is looking kinda shity..

OH and my damn catch can was hooked up wrong... so could that do any hardcore damage? drove it for like 3 weeks maybe with it hooked up wrong.. and the car was smoking a little bit before it was setup. I know i prolly shouldn't of been driving it like that but its my DD.

Im gonna try to get a compression or leak down test to see whats up before i spend money on valves/valve seals


Help would be appreciated
Thanks

JDMRIDDAZ
04-24-2012, 10:55 AM
boost leaks...

BlueMissle sx
04-24-2012, 11:14 AM
Im sure I have a small leak somewhere but it shouldn't make this big of a difference and the smoke and oil seem to be the main issue unless boost leaks can cause this? haha

04-24-2012, 11:20 AM
well, if you say its lacking power and theres oil in your downpipe, you might have a melted piston lol.
do a compression/leakdown test. cant really expect someone to give you much info with just the above.

BlueMissle sx
04-24-2012, 11:26 AM
Yeah that would be lame as hell ive heard talk about piston rings but i was just hoping it be something a bit more realistic.. and ya ima get that compression/leakdown asap

Walperstyle
04-24-2012, 11:44 AM
^basically what he is saying is the answers you see will be by getting off the internet and doing a compression test/leakdown test.

It very well could be your catch-can, we dont know.

Hoffman5982
04-24-2012, 11:45 AM
It's probably the rings. Do a compression test and I'm sure on or two cylinders are dead. Sorry man

BlueMissle sx
04-24-2012, 11:51 AM
Can't do a compression test at school.. Lol but that's for the wise words guys and I'll get back to forums after the test to see what's up. Thx

BlueMissle sx
04-30-2012, 11:19 AM
So i did a compression test.. numbers read 30 on the first cylinder and 150 on all the remaining three soo 30-150-150-150 what do you guys think now? anyone ever get these kind of numbers?

04-30-2012, 11:22 AM
melted piston..lol
tear it open


OR


Broken ringlands

bataangpinoy
04-30-2012, 11:22 AM
Classic symptoms of massive blow-by cause by either shot rings or cracked ring lands at #1. Hopefully you just need new rings but its not uncommon for SR20DET pistons to crack at the ring lands due to detonation.


But melted pistons, really? Would require for his timing to be too far advanced, and running fuel lacking the correct % of octane for the timing.

BlueMissle sx
04-30-2012, 11:25 AM
Thanks guys not good news at all.. haha but i needed to hear it from some other than my self... damn why couldnt i just get a damn head gasket problem.. fackkkk did a leak down too and the test stayed blue.. no clue how im gonna fix this

jpizzle240
04-30-2012, 11:37 AM
Put a ka in it :)

BlueMissle sx
04-30-2012, 11:51 AM
That is an option haha damn I'll miss boost :P but I miss not being able to drive my missle :(

Frank_Jaeger
04-30-2012, 12:01 PM
That is an option haha damn I'll miss boost :P but I miss not being able to drive my missle :(
Put in a KA. Then turbo it.

Or rebuild the SR.

Or sell it and buy a Civic.

BlueMissle sx
04-30-2012, 12:03 PM
Ehhh ka-t idk about that I've heard to much crap ha looks like I'm gonna have to rebuild the sr ha drift civic?!

desertKAdrifter
04-30-2012, 12:12 PM
ive been running my ka-t on my s14 for more than a year now, and just a week ago my e-bay turbo went out. Been running 10psi no problems, and making good power. Im suprised it is still running because i drift in it every weekend. I prefer ka over sr because of my low budget. If i ever blow my ka i can pick one up for around 400 bux or rebuild it for even cheaper.

bataangpinoy
04-30-2012, 12:13 PM
Thanks guys not good news at all.. haha but i needed to hear it from some other than my self... damn why couldnt i just get a damn head gasket problem.. fackkkk did a leak down too and the test stayed blue.. no clue how im gonna fix this

:picardfp:

its not hard.

1) pull motor
2) take head off
3) take a 27mm socket and undo the crank bolt
4) pull harmonic balancer
5) take off oilpan/pump+pickup
6) take off baffles
7) take off crank girdle

you now have access to the rod bearings/piston&rod assembly.

if you cant figure it out after this awesome bowl of spoon feeding, get a ka. :kiss:

Love,
Daddy. (JK, just being a jokester.)



common sense man. it aint rocket science.

BlueMissle sx
04-30-2012, 12:27 PM
ive been running my ka-t on my s14 for more than a year now, and just a week ago my e-bay turbo went out. Been running 10psi no problems, and making good power. Im suprised it is still running because i drift in it every weekend. I prefer ka over sr because of my low budget. If i ever blow my ka i can pick one up for around 400 bux or rebuild it for even cheaper.

Damn nice! Ive considered ka-t before but I've just been brain washed into thinking there time bombs haha your set up seems legit

BlueMissle sx
04-30-2012, 12:29 PM
:picardfp:

its not hard.

1) pull motor
2) take head off
3) take a 27mm socket and undo the crank bolt
4) pull harmonic balancer
5) take off oilpan/pump+pickup
6) take off baffles
7) take off crank girdle

you now have access to the rod bearings/piston&rod assembly.

if you cant figure it out after this awesome bowl of spoon feeding, get a ka. :kiss:

Love,
Daddy. (JK, just being a jokester.)



common sense man. it aint rocket science.

Well I just don't have a cherry picker to pull the motor :/ that's why I'm kinda stuck or else that thing would of been pulled already thanks for the check list bro haha

Morphious
04-30-2012, 01:13 PM
I had the same issue 6 months ago it turned out to be the rings. Dumping oil out the exhaust and sounded like shit.

fliprayzin240sx
05-01-2012, 10:26 PM
Did you drop a cap full of oil in #1 to see if the compression jumps a bit to make sure it is the rings?

BlueMissle sx
05-02-2012, 08:11 AM
Did you drop a cap full of oil in #1 to see if the compression jumps a bit to make sure it is the rings?

No I hadn't I'll put the valve cover back on and try that thanks

BlueMissle sx
05-03-2012, 08:32 AM
Noob question... So you know the 3 Allen key bolts that are down the middle of the head when you take the valve cover off do they hold the head on along with the head bolts and what's the tool called?

Thanks

ShadowMan
05-03-2012, 06:02 PM
Dude, get an fsm man, there are downloadable versions on the net. Google sr20det fsm, down load whichever one matches your motor, take that to kinko's or some other place and have it printed off. Best 40 bucks I ever spent concerning my car. I had a friend leave the motor in his car and take the bottom end apart to change out 1 piston and rings, super budget. I wasn't there but he definitely hated his life. Some auto stoers will rent out tools, so look around. But I had the same problem and yup, 1 fried piston detonated all the way down to the ring lands.
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6425/38188200.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/2282/77563005.jpg
I went all new oem pistons, apex hg, acl rod and main bearings, new oil pump, new timing kit, new valve seals, arp rod- main- head studs, + misc. bullshit Reused the rds and everything else. 1500 bucks give or take. Got my stuff from frsport, they helped me out alot. If you don't have the know how or tools i.e. torque wrench, ring compressor, yada yada yada, the price goes up. maybe a new motor would be easier. Just get it from a reliable supplier. good luck.

ATLspeed
05-03-2012, 06:06 PM
Noob question... So you know the 3 Allen key bolts that are down the middle of the head when you take the valve cover off do they hold the head on along with the head bolts and what's the tool called?

Thanks

thats part of the coolant passages. dont bother them! (for the ka anyway but I would assume the same)

ShadowMan
05-03-2012, 06:32 PM
yeah just leave em alone. Your head studs are located under then cams. there are also minor bolts around the outside hear and there. And a couple inside the timing chasin area as well.

BlueMissle sx
05-04-2012, 08:24 AM
Dude, get an fsm man, there are downloadable versions on the net. Google sr20det fsm, down load whichever one matches your motor, take that to kinko's or some other place and have it printed off. Best 40 bucks I ever spent concerning my car. I had a friend leave the motor in his car and take the bottom end apart to change out 1 piston and rings, super budget. I wasn't there but he definitely hated his life. Some auto stoers will rent out tools, so look around. But I had the same problem and yup, 1 fried piston detonated all the way down to the ring lands.
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6425/38188200.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/2282/77563005.jpg
I went all new oem pistons, apex hg, acl rod and main bearings, new oil pump, new timing kit, new valve seals, arp rod- main- head studs, + misc. bullshit Reused the rds and everything else. 1500 bucks give or take. Got my stuff from frsport, they helped me out alot. If you don't have the know how or tools i.e. torque wrench, ring compressor, yada yada yada, the price goes up. maybe a new motor would be easier. Just get it from a reliable supplier. good luck.

Holy shit thanks I'll definitely have to look into that thanks for the pics and info helps a lot dudeee! And for the Allen key bolts don't take them out? I have all the head bolts out timing belt cams etc and the head won't budge :o

ShadowMan
05-04-2012, 04:06 PM
I didn't remove them, but I also didnt take my head to the machine shop either. If I did take it there then I would have probably removed them along with everything else. This is where an FSM comes in handy, it tells why shit is there and how to remove/replcae properly. No guessing. Post up pics when you get it apart, I'm curious to see what your number one cylinder looks like. Its usually number 4 that goes because, usually it runs a bit hooter than the others, or so I'm told. Good luck.

BlueMissle sx
05-06-2012, 06:52 PM
I didn't remove them, but I also didnt take my head to the machine shop either. If I did take it there then I would have probably removed them along with everything else. This is where an FSM comes in handy, it tells why shit is there and how to remove/replcae properly. No guessing. Post up pics when you get it apart, I'm curious to see what your number one cylinder looks like. Its usually number 4 that goes because, usually it runs a bit hooter than the others, or so I'm told. Good luck.

Ahh i see so Ok this is a pic of my 1st piston/cylinder whatcha think?

Note: When i took off my head gasket it was bare metal and all three layers where unbinding and it was covered in oil is there anyway oil could be getting to my down pipe just by having a blown head gasket or may i just have something simple hooked up wrong :P

http://i47.tinypic.com/117h93d.jpg

http://i48.tinypic.com/25g3vax.jpg

My janky head gasket...
http://i48.tinypic.com/qxnf6g.jpg

Thankz

BlueMissle sx
05-07-2012, 08:18 AM
Any conclusions?