crazy rich, codes, etc

[nddavis2]

After all kinds of issues with the engine smoking months ago due to what I believe I incorrectly diagnosed as a blown head gasket (I assumed the worse instead of checking the ecu for codes...I know, stupid), I am getting the knock sensor code. I replaced it along with the 02 sensor, coolant temp sensor, the one beside it that I dont remember right off, and head gasket and every one that goes along with it. Crank the car and it hesitates before starting then runs...ok at best. Starts running even worse. Check and I have 2 bad injectors. Replace both of those and the stupid thing is running crazy rich. Thought maybe I had a leaky injector so I proceed to replace all o-rings and check to see if I'm having one leak by pressurizing the system and all appears to be well. Cleared all the codes at this point and the started the car and let it run 30 minutes to see if it threw any codes. It does...34 and 13. Knock sensor and coolant temp sensor. Oh wait a minute...I just replaced those!!!! I've replaced most of the vacuum lines. I sprayed the others with carb cleaner to see if I had a leaky one which I don't seem to have. Plugs are black, smoke smells of gas. I have a used maf coming this week. What else is there to do? I'm frustrated as hell right now and honestly don't know the next thing to try. Car has been off the road 8 months because of this same stuff. I keep changing out this, that, and the other with no good results. Please help....

Car is a 91 hatch ka24de

[nddavis2]

Unplugged the MAF while running and it stumbled for a second then ran much smoother. However...it still smokes badly. Reved the engine both with and without the maf plugged in and immediately after I get fluctuating idle. I am also still getting code 34 for the knock sensor even after clearing codes. I put a 100k ohm resister into the wiring harness and it still gave me the code. Am I an idiot and put in wrong?

[nassin31spr]

Also try swapping the ecu and double check your wiring.

[Krewlkid]

Check your fuel pressure, plugged return line maybe?

[nddavis2]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll try to track down an ecu to try and go ahead and get a fuel pressure guage to test that.

[rdrckt]

Try a known good igniter

[nddavis2]

Finally a good update on the car. Come to find out the main issue was a MAF. After going through 2, I finally found one that was good and was able to drive the car for the first time in 2 years. However, the timing/ idle is not completely consistent. It will run fine for 30 seconds or so then become sluggish and rpms drop. Occasionally will cut off as well. Going to replace spark plugs tomorrow due to mine being completely black from it running rick along with changing the oil. When driving it/ letting it idle, the warning light for cat converter temp came on so it looks like I need to replace the cat. Anyone have more suggestions on simple stuff to change? When idling smooth, the timing looks to be 18-20 degrees so timing is good, rotor and cap are new as is the O2 sensor

[Mikester]

Sounds like you are on the right track... Plugs, wires, clean or replace air filter. Also clean your PCV valve.

[nddavis2]

Just wanted to come on here right quick and thank everyone for the help. Got a working MAF, reset timing, changed plugs, changed oil, and car is running like a champ. No weird idle issues anymore (well as of yesterday, haven't tried today) or smoking issues. It's currently idling at around 1000 rpm so I need to lower the idle. I cleaned out the IACV and I guess I didn't get the screw exactly set where it was. Lucky me having ABS so turning that screw is a huge PITA. Will be changing the power steering pump this weekend and need to get replace some of the A/C system but other than that it seems to be good to go. Calling to get insurance today and inspection/ title by end of this week or next week. Do need to replace the catalytic converter too I believe. I have the cat temp light lit up on the gage cluster.

Thanks again for all the help.