Clutch Bleeding

[ogbryce]

I replaced my slave cylinder, and now when I bleed the line it never comes out clear, no matter what it is a pattern of air and brake fluid. I went through an entire bottle of brake fluid. Is this common for a faulty master cylinder? If so I will replace. I am bleeding with the master cylinder cap open and constantly topping it never letting it go low

[KiLLeR2001]

I replaced my master not too long ago, it definitely helps with the color of the fluid but not entirely. I think there is probably still some residue in the actual lines themselves over time. The best way would be to replace the master and get new lines.

[ogbryce]

sorry i don't mean clear as in color, I mean clear as in all fluid, no bubbles

[KiLLeR2001]

Did you remove the clutch damper box? Usually its the culprit when trying to bleed all the air out of the clutch system.

[3v1Ls14]

Bleed the master cylinder THEN the slave cylinder. Bled mine last week this way, works perfect.

[ogbryce]

Bleed the master cylinder THEN the slave cylinder. Bled mine last week this way, works perfect.

how do i bleed the master cylinder?
the dampener box has already been removed
right now what i'm doing is taking the master cylinder top off, loosening bleeder valve on slave in which i have a hose running to a glass. Then i'm pressing the pedal hundreds of times while a friend is making sure the master cylinder stays at max. No matter what I'm not getting a steady stream of fluid it all has air in it. I've tried closing the master cylinder and pushing it, closing the bleeder valve and pumping. I don't know what else I could do unless you do need to bleed the master cylinder which i've got no idea how to do. When I push the pedal I can watch the fluid in the hose I have attached push forward so my master cylinder must be doing its job?

[3v1Ls14]

how do i bleed the master cylinder?


does it have a bleeder nipple on it or not?

[ogbryce]

does it have a bleeder nipple on it or not?

i'm pretty sure the master cylinder does not
http://i2.frsimg.com/images/detailed_images/Tokico_CMC240SX_3.jpg
believe this is the one I have, it is old

[LongGrain]

you're bleeding it wrong. You don't just open the bleeder and pump the pedal a million times.

you kinda need 3 people.

one person sits in the car to pump pedal
one person under the car working the bleeder
one person keeping any eye on the fluid level in the master (person in the car can kinda do this I guess.

procedure.

1. brake bleeder closed, person pumps clutch pedal 10 times or so and at the end KEEPS IT DEPRESSED.
2. person under car opens bleeder and releases pressure. bunch of air and fluid will spray out if you don't have a tube, once pressure is released CLOSE THE BLEEDER.
3. repeat. pump clutch pedal 10 times or so, open bleeder to release air and fluid pressure, close bleeder, blah blah blah.

you do this until the bleeder squirts out clear fluid and ONLY clear fluid, no air spraying or anything like that.

and remember the pedal has to be depressed when you open the bleeder AND when you close it, because if that dude lets the pedal back up with the bleeder open you're going to suck in a bunch of air.

this whole process should not take more than 4 or 5 minutes. it only takes like 3 or 4 repeats of this procedure to bleed the line completely.

[ogbryce]

you're bleeding it wrong. You don't just open the bleeder and pump the pedal a million times.

you kinda need 3 people.

one person sits in the car to pump pedal
one person under the car working the bleeder
one person keeping any eye on the fluid level in the master (person in the car can kinda do this I guess.

procedure.

1. brake bleeder closed, person pumps clutch pedal 10 times or so and at the end KEEPS IT DEPRESSED.
2. person under car opens bleeder and releases pressure. bunch of air and fluid will spray out if you don't have a tube, once pressure is released CLOSE THE BLEEDER.
3. repeat. pump clutch pedal 10 times or so, open bleeder to release air and fluid pressure, close bleeder, blah blah blah.

you do this until the bleeder squirts out clear fluid and ONLY clear fluid, no air spraying or anything like that.

and remember the pedal has to be depressed when you open the bleeder AND when you close it, because if that dude lets the pedal back up with the bleeder open you're going to suck in a bunch of air.

this whole process should not take more than 4 or 5 minutes. it only takes like 3 or 4 repeats of this procedure to bleed the line completely.

Alright I got it, I just read that to diagnose a faulty master cylinder when you pull the pedal out the fluid in the reservoir the level in the master will raise and I think this may also be the case. I'll go try bleeding it the way you have said now though and if it still doesn't work I will replace the master cylinder

[3v1Ls14]

Fill master cylinder
attach hose and spanner to slave (but leave closed)
pump pedal as far as it goes 5-10 times
hold pedal to the floor, have a friend open the bleeder valve on the slave and keep open for a second or 2 (keep foot down on pedal while bleeder is open. close bleeder valve THEN release the pedal. Repeat this as many times as you want untill the pedal feels how you want it.

I leave the cap on while im doing it and just take it off to top it up then put it back on. This method works everytime for me.

if it still doesn't work after that then you may need to bleed the master. (I had this problem, wouldnt bleed from slave alone so i just bled the master 2 times and then did slave another 1 or 2 times and it was sweet).

[ogbryce]

I had to replace the master cylinder, your procedure worked, thank you for the help!

[hOngsterr]

http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/297254-ultimate-clutch-pedal-thread.html

[3v1Ls14]

he wins (ULTIMATE answer to ur question.)^

[dawnattack]

this is the info i need..

[dawnattack]

this is just the info i needed, thanks...................
great write up