bad news for the RB

[OhSnapS14]

right so after i obviously posted in the wrong place, and seemed like i was scolded like a child...Lets try this again T_T

So the Rb20det overheated the other day a blew a HG. I understand RBs already run pretty hot because of the S14 engine bay squeeze, and besides fluid, thermostat what can i do to best prevent overheating again? Just lookin for some advice, dont be harsh.

[coupesallday!]

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/297481-small-questions-thread-search-first-use-instead-making-new-threads.html

you'll get your answers here

[OhSnapS14]

okay cool, thanks!

[fliprayzin240sx]

What fans were you running and what radiator? You can run colder thermostat, oil cooler, bigger radiator and stock fan/shroud setup if you can hack the radiator support.

[OhSnapS14]

ohhh i like the idea of running a colder thermostat! the rad isnt the stock KA one its some aftermarket looks like a koyo but no stamp on it lol and it has dual fans so thats taken care of too, but thanks for the thermostat idea man!

[Melonburst]

You can run an external oil cooler, Aftermarket thermostat, switch to E85 and move to a colder state. =]

[OhSnapS14]

external oil cooler is idea! but will have to come later LOL gotta fix my first mistake first LOL

[cbcm2435]

you can get your manifold, turbine housing and down pipe ceramic coated, and get a good vented hood

[OhSnapS14]

yahh i really want that zenki dmax hood thats up for sale here LOL sadly i need to get my tax money before i can start doing anything LOL

[sex14]

never had issues on mine with stock s14 radiator and stock fan with fan shroud. i did have pbm hood spacers tho.

[OhSnapS14]

im not sure about the hood spacers, i kinda want a vented hood.

[fliprayzin240sx]

You dont want a vented hood since most of them are just open. When it rains, you'll freaking flood your coilpacks...have fun getting the water out of the top of your RB.

[OhSnapS14]

its not my daily, but i guess i see your point. so i need a hood and some spacers.

[imotion s14]

is your shit ducted properly?

[OhSnapS14]

is your shit ducted properly?

sorry man, im new to a lot of this. can you please elaborate?

[xGUNKX]

I have a vented hood, i dont get water in my packs.
as long as the coilpack cover is on and sealed well you wont get water in it

[imotion s14]

sorry man, im new to a lot of this. can you please elaborate?

You have ducts forcing air thorough your radiator.

[jr_ss]

sorry man, im new to a lot of this. can you please elaborate?

What he means is, do you have the factory undertray on? Do you have huge gapping holes on the sides of the radiator? Any means of directing air through your radiator, rather than around it? Air tends to travel in the path of least resistance. For example, If there's a hole next to your radiator, the air will bypass the radiator and go through the hole. Granted not all the air will be able to flow through the hole, but it does cut down on cooling.

[OhSnapS14]

I have a vented hood, i dont get water in my packs.
as long as the coilpack cover is on and sealed well you wont get water in it

oh dang, it has the grand nat'l retrofit.. i mean theres a cover on them and plugs on the connections. i dunno if that would be a concern heres a pic to know what im dealin with.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w128/CerebralSin/64654_10151377406285125_769145124_23191983_1736679 2_n.jpg

[OhSnapS14]

yah no undertray as far as i can tell, sounds like a good enough idea to find/make one though!

[xGUNKX]

Are there holes straight to the packs? If so, then you would need a solid cover to prevent water from entering

[OhSnapS14]

Are there holes straight to the packs? If so, then you would need a solid cover to prevent water from entering

as far as i know the black box is the cover. so i guess now i decide if i do want a vented or reg hood w/ spacers.

[xGUNKX]

Im talking about the gold coil pack cover. Not the fuse box

[OhSnapS14]

gotcha yah id need to get a diff cover. ill probably do just a reg hood and spacers. cops look for heavily modded cars. and the speedo doesnt read right so i gotta watch it. need to fix that lol anyone know how? i know its cause it was a 4cycl switched to a 6 but its reading double miles

[xGUNKX]

Do the math in your head, get a custom harness made, or dif cluster retrofitted / dif gauges

[Frank_Jaeger]

Do the math in your head, get a custom harness made, or dif cluster retrofitted / dif gauges
Why couldn't you just throw in a resistor? Honest question.

[Yellow4g63]

Add a radiator breather tank to help bleed the system, put the fan clutch back on too.
http://www.fullcartuning.nl/images/extra_fotos/6759_D1S-breather-tank.2.jpg
since you don't have the stock intake manifold the breather is gone. I had a hell of a time with mine when I changed intake manifolds. The breather helps.

[tinys s14]

+1 for clutch fan

[fliprayzin240sx]

gotcha yah id need to get a diff cover. ill probably do just a reg hood and spacers. cops look for heavily modded cars. and the speedo doesnt read right so i gotta watch it. need to fix that lol anyone know how? i know its cause it was a 4cycl switched to a 6 but its reading double miles

Speedo should work with S14 speed sensor...if your speedo isnt working properly, something else is fucking it up.

Tach is the one doesnt work, you'd need a modded tach for it to work.
BBT RB Tachometer Conversion - Nissan 240sx - Raw Brokerage - Your #1 source for GTR and RB parts! (http://www.rawbrokerage.com/BBT-RB-Tachometer-Conversion-Nissan-240sx-bbt-tachometer.htm)

[OhSnapS14]

all i can say guys is a big thank you to all of you! this is really gunna help get things moving along for me! hopefully the resister fixes it! the guy i bought it off of said i need to take it off and there was something on the back like an adjustment knob? i dunno of course i havent gotten that far along.:D

[Yellow4g63]

You don't need to buy anything to get the tach to read right on the S14. Take it out and adjust the screw on the back of the tach with the it plugged in. You have to jumper the harness to do it but super easy and your tach will read right.

[fliprayzin240sx]

You don't need to buy anything to get the tach to read right on the S14. Take it out and adjust the screw on the back of the tach with the it plugged in. You have to jumper the harness to do it but super easy and your tach will read right.

Dont you have to take the tach out of the cluster to do it and you'd need something for a reference, ie an after market tach?

[OhSnapS14]

thanks yellow, ill try but man i dont have very much experience messing with tachs and such can you describe how to take the tach out, where the screw is and also what you mean by jumper the harness. im sorry man im a noob at this =/

[slideslidegnarslide]

Change to a clutch fan and shroud no need to hack up your rad support chase bays makes a rad that fits underneath the upper rad support

[Yellow4g63]

Dont you have to take the tach out of the cluster to do it and you'd need something for a reference, ie an after market tach?

Yeah you need to remove the cluster and jumper the harness so it will work. This will give you enough room to adjust it and look at the face while your doing it. I used my consult cable and nistune software to check the true rpm. 1st was the idle then the slow rev climb. I can't take credit for it CarlH from the Nico forums told me about it 3 years ago and I adjusted my tach right after that.

[OhSnapS14]

speakin of carlH i need to get in contact with him for my retune, he did a base tune on the car but needs to be fixed runnin a bit rich and some other key components changed

[Yellow4g63]

thanks yellow, ill try but man i dont have very much experience messing with tachs and such can you describe how to take the tach out, where the screw is and also what you mean by jumper the harness. im sorry man im a noob at this =/

When you remove the tach you will notice the plug isn't very long for it. It's just too short for you have it out far enough to adjust the tach. That's why you need to jumper it to make it longer. When you take out the tach and look on the back you will see a blue screw. It's what you turn to adjust the tach. My memory is a little fuzzy since I did it 3 years ago and it really didn't take more than 15min start to finish to do.

found this:

1. get yourself an autometer tach or something like that, just borrow it whatever it
takes.

2. make sure your tach is connected to your stock cluster, however it'll be reading 1.5xrpms at what you're really at.

3. take 6 screws out from under the steeringwheel on the plastic piece covering the key hole/wipers / signal.

4. once all 6 screws are out, the 2 plastic pieces should just pop out, it may require a tiny bit of love. Also take out the little plastic piece which covers the area round your key hole.

5. there are 2 screws located where your cluster is, just look up, and they're hiding under there.

6. Pull that piece out, beware there are 2 harnesses for your dimmer and cruise control, unplug them.

7. undo 3 screws, 1 on the right on the bottom of the cluster, 1 on the left, and 1 on the upper part in the center.

8. Pull the dash out, there are 3 connectors/harness to remove first before it all comes out.

9. Use a flathead or your fingernail to undo the black clips on the back of the cluster, theres probably about 6 of um.

10. pull the gauge cluster bezel away from the actual gauges.

11. Unscrew 4 screws directly behind the speedometer (not TACH), take the speedo out carefully don't hit bend or screw with anything else.

12. there should be a little white box with a screw on it, hiding behind the tach (behind where your white/black gauge face is) this is your adjustment.

13. turn your car on after reconnecting the 3 harnesses, compare your autometer with what your tach is showing. Turn the screw to match to the correct rpms.

14. make sure you put your 4 screws in firm, or else your tach will not read.

15. do everything backwards.

16. enjoy not hitting the bottom of your gauge cluster when trying to hit redline. Make yourself glad that you didn't have to send the tach to lsautomotive for something so simple! And if you don't know how to work that frequency converter like me this is a simiple solution =D

[Yellow4g63]

speakin of carlH i need to get in contact with him for my retune, he did a base tune on the car but needs to be fixed runnin a bit rich and some other key components changed

[email protected] I think is his email.

[OhSnapS14]

OHHH i gotcha! hahaha wow yah i was lost on the jumper thats a very good write up!

[fliprayzin240sx]

Yeah you need to remove the cluster and jumper the harness so it will work. This will give you enough room to adjust it and look at the face while your doing it. I used my consult cable and nistune software to check the true rpm. 1st was the idle then the slow rev climb. I can't take credit for it CarlH from the Nico forums told me about it 3 years ago and I adjusted my tach right after that.

I'll definitely hunt you down when I go down this path...I got an RB to throw into this car when I get a damn garage to start this swap in.

[Tantwoforty]

I'll definitely hunt you down when I go down this path...I got an RB to throw into this car when I get a damn garage to start this swap in.

your sig kicks ass....
lol

[ch1873857]

you can invert your clutch fan to give you a tad more room

stock radiator location. tilted slightly forward.
http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/o605/Casenator90/20120314_184550.jpg

[OhSnapS14]

yah i dont have a inside fan like that just 2 on the outside, thats a good idea though, that big thick rad hardly gives me enough room for anything.