Need help, looking to build 500+ hp sr20det

[silviaNC]

HI, I'm new to 240sx World. I recently got a 1989 240sx from a friend and looking for some help on my build. I'm currently putting the car back together, it has the stock Ka24 engine on it but I bought a sr20det red top with harness, ecu MAF sensor with it.
sr20det aftermarket parts, everything else stock
cp pistons(unknown compress.)
nismo fuel regulator
stage 1 act clutch.

I'm aiming to get 500+hp on the setup. any help on what i need to get this build started? id like to have a list of everything from engine to gauges, controllers, ecu management( or flash ecu ect.)

[Imarvin240]

okay, people are definitly going to jump on this thread about doing some research first...which i do agree with, but here is my one question to help me figure out what to tell you.

1) what is the price limit?

[silviaNC]

Hi, so far this is what I've been researching for. money avaiable 4-8k( car need some bodywork and better brakes, suspension so part of that money eill also be invested on that)

most of the labor will be mostly done by my friend and myself other than machine work.
Also if there is not needed or overkill for this hp range say so;).(will save my wallet:) Drivetrain will be the las thing to upgrade and any idea how much hp will hold with stock internals?
Head:
wich intake manifold??spec?
HKS cams . Specs?
Crower springs, retain, ect
angle, valve job, port n polish?
solid lifters?
cosmetic gasket

Block:
have to double check what CP pistons are in block but hopefully they are 8:5:1
eagle, manley, crower H- or I beam rods?
arp bolts on everything
balance job

Fuel
740cc or above?
fuel rail?
walbro fuel pump

turbo:
not sure what I need, i do know i dont want to have a big lag. 425-550 hp turbo? Specs?
dont know about exhaust manifold
bov?
westgate?

ecu:
flash ecu,? haltech is too expensive imo
boost control,

drivetrain:
aluminum 1 pc driveshaft. brand?
LSD? any interchangeable from nissan?

[Croustibat]

You have 4-8k for the whole car and want a 500+ hp engine ? And a clean body ?

forget it then. For that kind of money you can get a good chassis, bodywork ... and not much more.

[silviaNC]

Bodywork is on. Only need paint job wich will be done by best friend for dirt cheap but if its going to take more $ it will be a lil longer, but I still plan to build it for that hp. I'll be using the ka24 meanwhile so there is no rush. help is appreciated :D

[Imarvin240]

with only 4-8k to spend on suspension, brakes, engine, turbo setup, electronics, ect...quality will be low :/

in my opinion, do to a some what limited budget, you should do everything to the car in preperation to handle/control the 500hp first (suspension, brakes, electronics) after that, see what is left over and build the engine and get a turbo setup. the reason Haltec, AEM, Power FC are so expensive is because they do so much and are very good to fine tune an engine setup...basically you get what you pay for. Also, to do a 500hp set, you will most likely be sending your engine to a machine shop which will definity eat up a bit of money. as for oem internal limits, I myself have held ~350 on stock internals, but i strongly recommend not trying that. last, build the engine before you buy the turbo setup...no reason to get a baller ass turbo setup when you may end up not haveing the money to build the engine to support it. you can always get a basic turbo setup to start and move up to a bigger one down the road.

[Croustibat]

brakes : wilwood setup front and rear, cheap to run, reliable, light. around 1200-1300$ for 4 corners ( see on NRR bbs)

second hand wheels that clear the brakes and new tires : 0.8K -1K

suspension arms: that is another 2K

Want to go low too and still handle ? Need knuckles, 0.7K minimum.

ARBs, springs and dampers that works, that is another 1.5K

this is already 6K.

You still need at least a bucket seat(min 100$), a transmission that can handle the torque output (thats is at the very least a 2-3K upgrade for the box, 400 for the clutch), new turbo, boost controler, manifold, MAF, injectors, intercooler, watercooler, head work, gauges and sensors, exhaust, intake, remap ... That is another 3K minimum.


You need to at least double or triple your budget, if you want something that handles and is reliable. Or you could be realistic, and stick to your engine with a few mandatory parts like a FMIC, a boost controler and a remap. that will give you around 300hp.

The main idea here is "be realistic". Do you want a 500HP car, or do you want a 500HP engine ? With your budget, you cant have a 500HP car.

You could cheap out on chassis parts of course. Getting cheap parts that will bend, have a high running cost, ruin your handling and develop play quite fast. Which is not a good idea.

Or you could cheap out on brakes, and install Z32 stuff. Which still costs money, and wont stop a 500hp car on a track for long. Pads and rotors are expensive too (and heavy).

[slow92]

OP....you really need to rethink your goals. Your spending limit is too low for what you are wanting to make. Ya you could to the 500 hp mark but the car won't last for long. Either your rear end or axles will break, you won't be able to stop your car, your transmission will break or a series of other problems. Besides you are skimping on some of the most important parts of building an engine like this.....engine managment. You gotta pay to play and in this case you almost have to go stand alone to trully dial your car in and be able to monitor everything. I am building a car and my motor alone costs almost as much as your spending limit. Good luck.

[ForceFed]

Before anyone else gets all antsy with your budget, what do you want to do with the car? If its just "beat around town" setup it's doable. But if you are trying to be competitive at the track, you're going to need to spend more

[Walperstyle]

Figure out your budget, then times it by three... that is reality.

[Kingtal0n]

The cheapest way to go 500 horsepower on a daily driver 97 without paint/wheels is an OEM 2jz-gte JDM engine, top mount journal bearing precision turbocharger, top feedinjectors, automatic transmission with some goodies, twin walbro in the tank.

The swap will run you about $10,000-$12,000 installed, with properly welded engine mounts and custom plumbing. For around $15,000 total you can include paint and wheels to that chassis. The price includes the chassis of the 97 240sx, which can be found clean around $5000. So the swap by itself is around $5000-$7000, which beats any built SR20 build done right.

[slider2828]

Nah with an SR that runs maybe for like a week, he can do it pretty cheaply. Dump on like a GT35R.... Run a Freddy Manifold and HKS272 Step 2Cams... and a straight pipe exhaust.

Then throw on JWT manifold, rebuild the bottom end with rods and piston, and get a 1.6mm metal head gasket....

THen have a go at it.... Oh then dump some cash into a PowerFC(God knows those are so cheap now)....

Run maybe an ACT Heavy Duty Puck Disk....

Walboro with 850cc Deatshwerks Injectors...

Basically you are done....

Seriously that is about it.... Can't say it will be fun to drive, but it will get close to 500HP.... The tranny should handle a couple of passes if you don't have something too sticky on their.... Brake department just get some 300zx and call it a night cause I assume mostly drag anyways.

[silviaNC]

with only 4-8k to spend on suspension, brakes, engine, turbo setup, electronics, ect...quality will be low :/

in my opinion, do to a some what limited budget, you should do everything to the car in preperation to handle/control the 500hp first (suspension, brakes, electronics) after that, see what is left over and build the engine and get a turbo setup. the reason Haltec, AEM, Power FC are so expensive is because they do so much and are very good to fine tune an engine setup...basically you get what you pay for. Also, to do a 500hp set, you will most likely be sending your engine to a machine shop which will definity eat up a bit of money. as for oem internal limits, I myself have held ~350 on stock internals, but i strongly recommend not trying that. last, build the engine before you buy the turbo setup...no reason to get a baller ass turbo setup when you may end up not haveing the money to build the engine to support it. you can always get a basic turbo setup to start and move up to a bigger one down the road.

thanks for the help peeps
seems it will take me lil longer to get it done. I dont want to get cheap HP that will last me a week. Want a car for track but also be able to drive it on the street at times, if 500 hp is too hard to achieve then i can settle for 400hp+ but well built. budget wise it will change just wont be able to invest 10k in a month. Now does it make sense to get electronics ect if ill be using the Ka24 for now? spending $ on that but not having a engine to control sounds kinda worthless to me but I might be wrong. I had plans to do block and head first. even if swap is fully built I wont plan to tune it up for that kinda hp untill i upgrade suspension, drivetrain and electronics.
today I just picked up test pipe, full exhaust, racing seats, 300zx brake swap(free from a friend, cant complain for now), to put on car.also searching on suspension drivetrain options for next week.
I already have CP pistons on block, what good rods for this built?
H bean or I beam, brands?

[Imarvin240]

thanks for the help peeps
seems it will take me lil longer to get it done. I dont want to get cheap HP that will last me a week. Want a car for track but also be able to drive it on the street at times, if 500 hp is too hard to achieve then i can settle for 400hp+ but well built. budget wise it will change just wont be able to invest 10k in a month. Now does it make sense to get electronics ect if ill be using the Ka24 for now? spending $ on that but not having a engine to control sounds kinda worthless to me but I might be wrong. I had plans to do block and head first. even if swap is fully built I wont plan to tune it up for that kinda hp untill i upgrade suspension, drivetrain and electronics.
today I just picked up test pipe, full exhaust, racing seats, 300zx brake swap(free from a friend, cant complain for now), to put on car.also searching on suspension drivetrain options for next week.
I already have CP pistons on block, what good rods for this built?
H bean or I beam, brands?

it isn't that 500hp is hard to achive, its just not in the current budget...doesn't mean you can't get 500 down the road. for the electronics, some electronics are nice to have no matter what, but i would say that in conjuction with building the engine, you should be getting the electronics for the car. once you do cams, change compression, injectors, ect., a tune will be needed no matter what. z brakes will do fine, just get good pads such as (project mu) and upgrade the Master cylinder and that will help alot. As for rods, I personally like Turbo Tuff rods and Crower rods...I don't mean BC...but eagle rods would also work just fine for your power goals. (nothing against BC, just wanted to clarify what rods I was speaking of)
Also, im not speaking out of my ass, you can always check out my build thread that im doing on here and see I have a pretty good idea what im talking about. you can also PM me if you have any other questions.

[Croustibat]

400HP will cost about the same to build (turbo will be a bit cheaper but you still need everything else). The cost different is the usage, a 400HP setup will cost less to run and will be easier to drive. Going "down" from 500 to 400 may shave around 0.5K off of your budget, a grand max.

Your budget allows you to get a nice chassis, and a 300HP SR so i strongly suggest starting there. Do that, learn how your car drive, then get more HP. It will be funnier and more efficient this way, driving a 400-500HP 240sx on a track is not by any mean easy. I would even risk saygin that if you are not a pro or very talented driver, you just cant expect anything by jumping in a car like that if you have not driven a fast one previously.
You cant step on the throttle, you will be overtaken by easier to drive 300HP cars, get angry and finish in a gravel pit somewhere. Like everyone playing out of its league.

[silviaNC]

build is moving slow due to lack of free time, already installed racing seats, bodykit(includes fenders, skirts rear bumper, still need to work on front bumper)
took block apart and found out I have 8:5:1 CP pistons and decided to pick some BC rods bc6209. any feedback on these?

[trickey1991]

my buddy runs 400whp on a SR with a t3/t4 precision and HKS cams. at 20lbs

[silviaNC]

my buddy runs 400whp on a SR with a t3/t4 precision and HKS cams. at 20lbs
Yeah I was reading it handles 200hp per rod= 800hp. Sounds too good for the price
So I need different bearings(racing) if there is any or jist stock???Im looking for 450 + build according to my new budget.
:hsdance:

[trickey1991]

well he runs everything stock except HKS cams he picked up brand new for like $700, the turbo was like $750-800 This is the turbo I have its good for "490" I talked to a guy at precision he said literally they are usually good for 20-30% more then rated they just have to cover their own ass.

Precision Turbo 3231E (aka T3/T4E 50trim): CTS Turbo (http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Precision_Turbo_3231E_aka_T3_T4E_50trim-369-11.html)

You can run stock rods, pistons etc. Just install cams, bigger fuel pump , injectors, and a solid maf and you'll make 400whp at 20-22psi on a stock SR

[Imarvin240]

well he runs everything stock except HKS cams he picked up brand new for like $700, the turbo was like $750-800 This is the turbo I have its good for "490" I talked to a guy at precision he said literally they are usually good for 20-30% more then rated they just have to cover their own ass.

Precision Turbo 3231E (aka T3/T4E 50trim): CTS Turbo (http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Precision_Turbo_3231E_aka_T3_T4E_50trim-369-11.html)

You can run stock rods, pistons etc. Just install cams, bigger fuel pump , injectors, and a solid maf and you'll make 400whp at 20-22psi on a stock SR

at least do arp head studs and a good headgasket...I have arp head studs for sale too. Also, I would recommend doing a bit more just to be on the safe side.

[trickey1991]

There is legit no point in doing anymore. When you pop the head off an engine you always have to machine the head and the block to ensure they seal properly. SURE you can "get a thicker head gasket" but that is stupid you should always machine both surfaces smooth to ensure true flatness . To get them machined you're looking at at least $200-500 . A SR20 goes for like $750-1000 with no Tranny . By the time you buy a Head gasket $200, Arp Studs $150 and everything else , you could just save the money and buy a new motor. If you have knowledge and know what you're doing 400whp on a stock SR with Cams and supporting mods is nothing.

[silviaNC]

at least do arp head studs and a good headgasket...I have arp head studs for sale too. Also, I would recommend doing a bit more just to be on the safe side.
like Imarvin said, I'm sure it can handle it but i want to build it to last a while, blockwise I'd like to have well built. I'm getting arp as well. what kind of HKS cams, and how big fuel injectors ?.

[silviaNC]

There is legit no point in doing anymore. When you pop the head off an engine you always have to machine the head and the block to ensure they seal properly. SURE you can "get a thicker head gasket" but that is stupid you should always machine both surfaces smooth to ensure true flatness . To get them machined you're looking at at least $200-500 . A SR20 goes for like $750-1000 with no Tranny . By the time you buy a Head gasket $200, Arp Studs $150 and everything else , you could just save the money and buy a new motor. If you have knowledge and know what you're doing 400whp on a stock SR with Cams and supporting mods is nothing.

I paid 1k for the swap including harness, fuel pump, ecu.
motor was rebuilt 1k miles ago with cp pistons,arp studs and thicker head gasket, I'm still going to get it resurfaced just in case when i put on the crower rods next week but i think i got a pretty good deal

[trickey1991]

ARP studs are a waste of time unless you are going machine the head and block. you're going to crack a motor open and get leaks. for instance: there is a guy here that has replaced 4 head gaskets on a 280whp SR in the last year because he didn't machine the surfaces . My buddy has been running 400whp on a stock unopened engine since last year and hasn't had a single problem. When you take a head off you risk leaks , unless you are going to machine the surfaces you're just asking for headaches.

I'm not sure the model of the HKS cams, but I'd run at least 600CC injectors

[Imarvin240]

ARP studs are a waste of time unless you are going machine the head and block. you're going to crack a motor open and get leaks. for instance: there is a guy here that has replaced 4 head gaskets on a 280whp SR in the last year because he didn't machine the surfaces . My buddy has been running 400whp on a stock unopened engine since last year and hasn't had a single problem. When you take a head off you risk leaks , unless you are going to machine the surfaces you're just asking for headaches.

I'm not sure the model of the HKS cams, but I'd run at least 600CC injectors

he already said he took the head off

[silviaNC]

ARP studs are a waste of time unless you are going machine the head and block. you're going to crack a motor open and get leaks. for instance: there is a guy here that has replaced 4 head gaskets on a 280whp SR in the last year because he didn't machine the surfaces . My buddy has been running 400whp on a stock unopened engine since last year and hasn't had a single problem. When you take a head off you risk leaks , unless you are going to machine the surfaces you're just asking for headaches.

I'm not sure the model of the HKS cams, but I'd run at least 600CC injectors yeah even on stock engine they recommend to cut the heads and block.( I call it resurface). make even more sense if u buiilding a performance car. performance between BC and HKS cams??

[Imarvin240]

yeah even on stock engine they recommend to cut the heads and block.( I call it resurface). make even more sense if u buiilding a performance car. performance between BC and HKS cams??

Im running Tomei 270 cams in the head in selling, they work great.

[trickey1991]

yeah even on stock engine they recommend to cut the heads and block.( I call it resurface). make even more sense if u buiilding a performance car. performance between BC and HKS cams??


If you already took the head off, and are going to resurface then yes put a head gasket and put arp studs. I like the Brian Crower but HKS are awesome too. I personally sell both and seem to sell more Brian Crower then HKS camshafts.

[silviaNC]

If you already took the head off, and are going to resurface then yes put a head gasket and put arp studs. I like the Brian Crower but HKS are awesome too. I personally sell both and seem to sell more Brian Crower then HKS camshafts.

Yeah everything is off already. For what I c any stage 2 cams need springs and retainers upgrade.( recommended by crower) is it true or can stock handle it? Lots of peeps I c have 272 cams. But whats better for a range of 375-450 hp? If im using crower rods and I'd like to stick with a company unless there is really a defference on performance.

[silviaNC]

Before anyone else gets all antsy with your budget, what do you want to do with the car? If its just "beat around town" setup it's doable.
http://www.primeaffiliate.com/track/images/20.creation.jpg
http://www.canadablackberry.com/imgs/images/2.tod.gif

Not just beat around street but not fully racing strip down car( at least till i get enogh xperience on track) always been a street racer n/a FWD . But moving on ti next lvl.

[Imarvin240]

Yeah everything is off already. For what I c any stage 2 cams need springs and retainers upgrade.( recommended by crower) is it true or can stock handle it? Lots of peeps I c have 272 cams. But whats better for a range of 375-450 hp? If im using crower rods and I'd like to stick with a company unless there is really a defference on performance.

in my personal option and from plenty of experience with building cars/engines, I would do the springs, retainers, and all other other simple things. if you are already in the engine replacing parts, may as well upgrade the little things so you CAN BE CERTAIN that you wont have any problems down the road and feel worry free if you do decide to push the engine a bit more in the future. last thing you want is to have to rip it all back apart because you didn't replace something simple. I would go with something around the 270-272 area. Crower does make good parts, but it never hurts to go with a different company for certian parts.

[trickey1991]

in my personal option and from plenty of experience with building cars/engines, I would do the springs, retainers, and all other other simple things. if you are already in the engine replacing parts, may as well upgrade the little things so you CAN BE CERTAIN that you wont have any problems down the road and feel worry free if you do decide to push the engine a bit more in the future. last thing you want is to have to rip it all back apart because you didn't replace something simple. I would go with something around the 270-272 area. Crower does make good parts, but it never hurts to go with a different company for certian parts.

Crower cams are where its at. My good buddy runs Crower cams in his 500whp 1JZ and loves them added 65whp from running the car without them.


Adv. Dur:272° Lift:494"

[Imarvin240]

Crower cams are where its at. My good buddy runs Crower cams in his 500whp 1JZ and loves them added 65whp from running the car without them.


Adv. Dur:272° Lift:494"

I mean im not going to bother argueing more then this comment, there is nothing wrong with crower, but there isn't anything wrong with Tomei, HKS, and kelford cams either. I had no problem making over 500whp with tomei cams in my SR. Also, my buddy is currently making over 550whp with kelford cams in his sr. its not just the cam thats going to determine if you hit the numbers you are looking for; injectors, turbo, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, intercooler setup, displacement, stroke, valve size, ect...TONS of things determine the hp/tq result. for cams, there isn't a BEST cam, its all about preference. Crower, Tomei, HKS, Kelford, and a few others are great options...just see what works better for your price range.

[trickey1991]

^^^ exactly people would t believe what a good exhaust mani can do for a car.. The diff between a china mani and a hand made one Is incredible . Also intak mani makes a difference .

[0danxQ]

or you could ignor all this and buy an ls1.... ez power + no turbo problems

[silviaNC]

or you could ignor all this and buy an ls1.... ez power + no turbo problems

I know putting a Ls1 on my car will have lots of potential but I will feel like meeting a hot woman and find out in bed she was a tranvesti lol. I'd like to stick with sr20's maybe rb's later on. every motor will go fast with the right amount of $ anyway

[0danxQ]

well i enjoy driving my car. do you like driving your car? or do you like watching it sit for a couple years? but hey to each there own

[Imarvin240]

well i enjoy driving my car. do you like driving your car? or do you like watching it sit for a couple years? but hey to each there own

you talk alot of crap for having problems with a N/A KA...but hey, to each there own. Some of the build threads on here doing V8s have been taking forever. some of the SR builds may end up sitting for awhile because the person is doing more then just a motor swap. Why is it that when someone debates about doing an SR, RB, KA, CA, ect swap or even mentions building it, all you V8 humpers come running into the thread thinking the V8 is the king of all engines and it is truly what that person has been searching for all their life? If the person wants SR, RB, KA, CA, ect...let them do it and just give them the proper advice on building such engine or GTFO! He wants SR, the title doesn't say "tell me what engine I should get". Besides, there are plenty of people with the other engines that have no problem walking you V8 kids...myself included. have a nice day.

[mattsil80wis]

silviaNC clear out your inbox...i have something you maybe interested in

[0danxQ]

you talk alot of crap for having problems with a N/A KA...but hey, to each there own. Some of the build threads on here doing V8s have been taking forever. some of the SR builds may end up sitting for awhile because the person is doing more then just a motor swap. Why is it that when someone debates about doing an SR, RB, KA, CA, ect swap or even mentions building it, all you V8 humpers come running into the thread thinking the V8 is the king of all engines and it is truly what that person has been searching for all their life? If the person wants SR, RB, KA, CA, ect...let them do it and just give them the proper advice on building such engine or GTFO! He wants SR, the title doesn't say "tell me what engine I should get". Besides, there are plenty of people with the other engines that have no problem walking you V8 kids...myself included. have a nice day.

v8 humpers? haha
a person is the most successful when they keep their options open
CA (jdm bro)
RB (expensive)
KAT (im broke)
LS1 (ez power)
SR (simple)
500+ SR (i still live at home and my daily drivers a 95 grand am i had since high school)

sometimes i wonder if you kids actually want to drive or just fap about how jdm your cars are and how much hp itll have one day haha

[di-devol]

KA-t = I'm broke after.

[Imarvin240]

v8 humpers? haha
a person is the most successful when they keep their options openCA (jdm bro)
RB (expensive)
KAT (im broke)
LS1 (ez power)
SR (simple)
500+ SR (i still live at home and my daily drivers a 95 grand am i had since high school)

sometimes i wonder if you kids actually want to drive or just fap about how jdm your cars are and how much hp itll have one day haha

untill someone starts pointing them in a direction that they don't want to go in. so you are saying that I live at home (I assume you mean parents house) since my current project car will end up being a ~800hp SR22VE-T 350Z...? well then you poor sir are incorrect. at this point in the 240 scene, if someone did something besides a V8 they are being unique. Also, who said that some of the people doing CA, KA-T, RB, or SR aren't doing it for track reasons. I for instance, didn't go V8 since I have to stick with a nissan engine for my class...but even if I was allowed to go V8, I wouldn't have. Plenty of race series are like that...so why the hell would they do an LS? there are also big weight differences between all the engines, maybe some people care about that. not everything is about being JDM YO for someone to choose CA. RB makes amazing power EASY! would you mind explaining how TONS of BROKE people on KA-T.org have amazing built cars and they also live very unpoor lives? Why do tons of people living on there own, decide to put well built SR engines in there also well built cars? Oh and where is any of your experience in building performance cars? You say a 500+hp LS1 is easy power? really? have you done this? do you have any idea at all about what you are talking about? How about you quit thread bashing and just leave Zilvia already...you clearly aren't here to actually help this member. again, have a nice day.

[0danxQ]

untill someone starts pointing them in a direction that they don't want to go in. so you are saying that I live at home (I assume you mean parents house) since my current project car will end up being a ~800hp SR22VE-T 350Z...? well then you poor sir are incorrect. at this point in the 240 scene, if someone did something besides a V8 they are being unique. Also, who said that some of the people doing CA, KA-T, RB, or SR aren't doing it for track reasons. I for instance, didn't go V8 since I have to stick with a nissan engine for my class...but even if I was allowed to go V8, I wouldn't have. Plenty of race series are like that...so why the hell would they do an LS? there are also big weight differences between all the engines, maybe some people care about that. not everything is about being JDM YO for someone to choose CA. RB makes amazing power EASY! would you mind explaining how TONS of BROKE people on KA-T.org have amazing built cars and they also live very unpoor lives? Why do tons of people living on there own, decide to put well built SR engines in there also well built cars? Oh and where is any of your experience in building performance cars? You say a 500+hp LS1 is easy power? really? have you done this? do you have any idea at all about what you are talking about? How about you quit thread bashing and just leave Zilvia already...you clearly aren't here to actually help this member. again, have a nice day.

your arguement sucks.... there is more to owning a car than a engine swap. Give me one reason why CA would be better than putting in a SR.
Tell me how a KA-T is an appropriate option compared to SR

All you've complained about is simple preference but you have not said why any of these options makes sense... people with mentalities like yours have ugly cars forever you could be wiping your ass with a g stack and your car would still look like whatever came out your ass

you dont leave your mind open to reasonable options all you've had to say about the ls is that its heavy??? stop being so close minded and i'll actually start taking you seriously. have fun with your ramen noodles

[Imarvin240]

your arguement sucks.... there is more to owning a car than a engine swap. Give me one reason why CA would be better than putting in a SR.
Tell me how a KA-T is an appropriate option compared to SR

All you've complained about is simple preference but you have not said why any of these options makes sense... people with mentalities like yours have ugly cars forever you could be wiping your ass with a g stack and your car would still look like whatever came out your ass

you dont leave your mind open to reasonable options all you've had to say about the ls is that its heavy??? stop being so close minded and i'll actually start taking you seriously. have fun with your ramen noodles

haha ramen noodles? really? no offence, but I bet I live a much more luxurious life then you. I work every day and have plenty of money left over to do whatever I want with it. Now back to the arguement at hand why a CA and KA could be looked at as a better option over an SR (even though your original arguement was for a V8?). A KA-T offers more displacement, an Iron block, closer tq/hp ratio, very cheap to replace the engine since basically every 240 in the US came with it,...CA again, Iron block, CHEAP AS HELL! you lost the that round, now go have fun with your N/A KA :)

[0danxQ]

ok marvin...well i think you need to look up what lux really means because working as a construction worker, mechanic and wedding singer is not what i consider lux actually i consider that scraping by to gather the means for your shitty car addiction subaru time attack boy. hahahaha
i suggest you wise up before putting your shitty info out for the sharks to feed on. honestly your game must suck.

keep at it forum boy
you mad? ^_^Y=*~~

[redline racer510]

How bout you guys all calm down, look at it this way:
Ka-t=ftw
sr=ftw
ca= ftw
rb=ftw
ls1=ftw
You see how I did that? Now everyone is right.

[0danxQ]

How bout you guys all calm down, look at it this way:
Ka-t=ftw
sr=ftw
ca= ftw
rb=ftw
ls1=ftw
You see how I did that? Now everyone is right.

please never say "ftw" ever again especially if your out in public
thank you

[[email protected]]

v8 humpers? haha
a person is the most successful when they keep their options open
CA (jdm bro)
RB (expensive)
KAT (im broke)
LS1 (ez power)
SR (simple)
500+ SR (i still live at home and my daily drivers a 95 grand am i had since high school)

sometimes i wonder if you kids actually want to drive or just fap about how jdm your cars are and how much hp itll have one day haha

Seems a little closed minded if you ask me I though it was pretty easy making over 500 but that's just me.

[Imarvin240]

ok marvin...well i think you need to look up what lux really means because working as a construction worker, mechanic and wedding singer is not what i consider lux actually i consider that scraping by to gather the means for your shitty car addiction subaru time attack boy. hahahaha
i suggest you wise up before putting your shitty info out for the sharks to feed on. honestly your game must suck.

keep at it forum boy
you mad? ^_^Y=*~~

subaru boy? the title of my build thread includes the name 350z...I will even put the link at the bottom for you to view. Also, never said I was a wedding singer, I guess thats what you aspire to be when you grow up. oh and that scraping by has allowed me to live on an 85 acre property with a very nice size house and this year alone I have dumped more into my Z then you probably will earn in the next 4 years. you clearly have no idea what I make an hour doing construction, where I work as a mechanic, or what title I carry at the wedding business...oh and your right, my game is horrible...thats why I date a very attractive female doctor. You better know your shit before you start busting on someone there lil guy. the debate is over and now you know the correct shit that I am more then happy to put out there for you to be jealous of. if you care to talk anymore, why don't you just pm me so we don't side track this thread any further.

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/420428-imarvin240s-sr22ve-t-350z-time-attack-car-build.html

How bout you guys all calm down, look at it this way:
Ka-t=ftw
sr=ftw
ca= ftw
rb=ftw
ls1=ftw
You see how I did that? Now everyone is right.

THANK YOU! someone else who finally agrees that every engine is good and not just the almighty V8. All depends on the application and preference.

[0danxQ]

subaru boy? the title of my build thread includes the name 350z...I will even put the link at the bottom for you to view. Also, never said I was a wedding singer, I guess thats what you aspire to be when you grow up. oh and that scraping by has allowed me to live on an 85 acre property with a very nice size house and this year alone I have dumped more into my Z then you probably will earn in the next 4 years. you clearly have no idea what I make an hour doing construction, where I work as a mechanic, or what title I carry at the wedding business...oh and your right, my game is horrible...thats why I date a very attractive female doctor. You better know your shit before you start busting on someone there lil guy. the debate is over and now you know the correct shit that I am more then happy to put out there for you to be jealous of. if you care to talk anymore, why don't you just pm me so we don't side track this thread any further.

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/420428-imarvin240s-sr22ve-t-350z-time-attack-car-build.html



THANK YOU! someone else who finally agrees that every engine is good and not just the almighty V8. All depends on the application and preference.

dude i dont take anything you say seriously. this is the internet in case you havnt figured that out and you sound like a hillbilly i wasn't sure if you were aware but that what i've observed. you also sound like yuo have big boy issues. does it bother you that your girl makes more than you? dont answer that again i dont care hahahaha

cough* but the best part of this entire this is you called me "lil guy" pffffffttttttt

[Imarvin240]

dude i dont take anything you say seriously. this is the internet in case you havnt figured that out and you sound like a hillbilly i wasn't sure if you were aware but that what i've observed. you also sound like yuo have big boy issues. does it bother you that your girl makes more than you? dont answer that again i dont care hahahaha

cough* but the best part of this entire this is you called me "lil guy" pffffffttttttt

so i guess we can all conclude that this guy ^^^ has nothing benifitial to contribute to this thread or to the world. oh and yes, I am such a hillbilly because of how I speak on the internet...makes total sence and no, I don't mind at all if she makes more then me. Last, I could care less if a little adolescent boy thinks I am lying on the internet and the fact you desided to bring the lil guy part up makes me close on the idea I am probably right. AGAIN, if you care to show any type of respect to the original poster, PM me if you want to stay off topic. It isn't right to him or anyone else who desides to come into this thread looking for the same answers the OP is asking and ends up seeing your childish rants. If you care to reply, be a grown up and PM me.

[0danxQ]

omg your soo retarded hahaha please can you pm me your shit talk... i like what we have going on here.

[AsleepAltima]

this thread went in the wrong direction... LOL

[Imarvin240]

this thread went in the wrong direction... LOL

well I have talking to the OP via PM the past few days, so its cool hah sorry OP for taking the thread off topic for a bit. but anyways...from what the OP and I have been talking about, I think he has it all squared away and he is doing the block and head up right to handle the power when he gets the rest of the parts needed.

[silviaNC]

so here is some pics of how i got the car, was sitting on the dudes house for 2 years so yeah need a lot of work( will be done by myslef)
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/gsxr750_photo/240sx%20Project/2012-02-26_12-12-49_803.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/gsxr750_photo/240sx%20Project/2012-02-26_12-12-16_201.jpg

SO FAR, BODY WISE
WILL POST PICS OF SWAP LATER
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/gsxr750_photo/240sx%20Project/2012-03-06_17-11-12_879.jpg

only work on car once a weeks so things will be moving slow.
still waiting on rods to arrive.

[silviaNC]

Need some coilovers brand feedbacks.
lots of brands. Any ggood? I see price ranges from 800-1.5k

[trickey1991]

stance,tein, HSD. all very reputable.

[Imarvin240]

Need some coilovers brand feedbacks.
lots of brands. Any ggood? I see price ranges from 800-1.5k

really depends what the purpose of the car is and how much you plan to spend on coilovers. that would help determine what coilovers to look at.

[Endurance Motorsports]

We have a Fortune Auto group buy going on if you're looking for coils.

In regards to the build, there is some great advice in here. People have success and failures in all builds. The best thing you can do is just plan out your build and focus within your budget. Build the car in phases because when you try to do it in one shot, you almost always skimp somewhere and that's usually going to end badly.

I would focus on a 300-350whp build for now (if you want to drive it with the SR) with some preparations for the big end goal (good ECU, injectors, fuel pump, etc). If you're going to stick with the KA in the car and build on the side, then focus on getting prep work like machine work, forged internals, etc and then do the big power adders when more money frees up.

500whp is attainable on many platforms and it comes down to what YOU want in YOUR build. You're the one putting in the money and the seat time, might as well enjoy your investment. :-)

[Pinggg]

Stance! +1
Theirs many other good coilovers just research.

[silviaNC]

It's been a while but Here is the list of the mods I have right know. everything is on the machine shop putting together

Block-
Cp pistons 86.5
Crower rods
Acl racing bearings
Mazworx main studs
Isis oil pan

Head-
HKS step 2 cams and cam gears
Hks springs and retainers
Greddy rocker arm stoppers
Port and polish and oil pass ported
Supertech valves
Isis intake manifold
Q45 TB
ARP head studs

Cooling
Blitz FIMIC, greddy piping
Turboxs BOV
No rad yet.

Drivetrain-
Competition stage 4 clutch kit
DDS one.piece aluminum driveshaft
Vlsd
Sr tranny

Turbo
Gt3076 BB top mount manifold
Turbosmart 38mm WG.

Brake-suspension
Full z32 swap
Megan tracks coilovers
Megan RUCAs

Electronics-
Haltech ps1000 with harness
2.5 bar Map, boost controller, timer ect.
Aem uego
Aem boost gauge
Looking.for.oil press and fuel press gauges

Everything still on process.
Hoping to get strong 450+ with build.
Any ideas advise for the build?
Im considering getting.a gtx3071r
But might give it mine a try( really wouldn't like it tho. is a jdm sports brands. who in hell knows if is good or not) previous owner said ran the turbo up to 20 psi with no problems for 6 months.

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/gsxr750_photo/240sx%20Project/2012-05-08_10-23-22_525.jpg