Drag racing: Please, need advises on improving launch in S13

[Vetal]

Hello to all Zilvia members!
Only recently found this forum with a lot of info and thought maybe experienced members might help :)
Problem I have is, no traction whatsoever. I drive fully street S13 with CA18DET and don't plan to turn it into drag-only car. We race mostly at the track where asphalt is 50 years old, very little of asphalt itself remained, mostly small stone chips if you know what I mean. Tarmac is terrible. You should probably 700HP 4WD cars spinning all 4 tires to understand how bad it is.
On this tarmac I cannot get better than 2.0' 60ft, 8.05 in 1/8 (did cut 1.8' on concrete old airfield). I want to improve that.

A bit about my setup:
CA18DET, around 360whp (according to 1/4 calculators)
stock weight
lowered a little bit, stock shocks (I think?)
ET Drags (5 years old) in the back, 26x8.5-15", running about 10psi, +/-
I was thinking about different ways to improve launch - different gearboxes, diffs, adding weight in rear, even trying to get custom gearbox shafts fabricated (cause now 1st is useless). Wanted to launch in 2nd gear, too.
I also think my slicks are old now. Which slicks could I fit under S13 wings? Would wider slicks help?

Please watch a couple of my starts so you get the idea :)

Nissan SX240 vs. BMW E30 drag race - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMkLMXXEJTw) - you can see how I change early and immediate loose the run
Latvijas Dragreisa (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0essyWeFfHw&t=368s) - few starts here
Latvijas Dragreisa (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0essyWeFfHw&t=483s) - few here, good comparison to Alfa with similar power and RWD

I hope I gave main info about my car :) What could you advice to try to improve? I'd like to stay on budget, BTW :)

http://www.prodrift.lv//wp-content/gallery/2011-dragrace-09-07-2011/dragrace_20110709-121.jpg

[jbballa9876]

uhh sorry but more power would help your time, go ahead and give that a shot

[shalezzz]

do you have an open diff? wider and new slicks will help and lol how do you have built CA and not know i your struts are stock

1. get new slicks.
2. get a diff
3. get an adapter plate to put a z32 trans in

[shalezzz]

just watched your video it didnt look like you were spinning so bad

[theboy]

^^^ thats a terrible idea. more power would also make him spin more. Your car seems stiff in the rear and doesn't really allow for any squat. You should first look for a nice spring and shock combo to allow the suspension to work to its fullest. On top of that, run a lower rear tire pressure. Once you start getting it to hook up and go, then start adding more power.

[Krewlkid]

if those slicks are as old as you say, they are probably hard and will cause bad traction, get something fresh and try to get some wider wheels with suitable tires. Drag tires may be a bit much for 300 (which i don't see at all in the videos) try some 15x8s with at least a 225 on it, and try to find some pizza cutters for the front. Also suspension with greatly improve traction.

[ericcastro]

I would say a diff if you just have stock.
That will be the biggest difference.
You will go from one tire traction to actually using both of them.

I would go anything from Helical, VLSD to 2 way.

But i strongly suggest against a welded. even though hot rod guys do it(did it), its extremely dangerous on a drag set up (tires suspension).

get a VLSD off here for a couple hundred and it will be a world of difference.

[Vetal]

Wow, I'm happy to see that many responses :) give me hope

Regarding VLSD - I have one, stock S13. Although I start to suspect it cause sometimes I spin inner tire when making u-turn. I plan to install 3.69 diff from S14, it should be newer and better I guess. Welded is prohibited, and as I said this is my daily S13 :)
Slicks - yes, I got them in 2007, so they will be at least 5y.o. (providing they didn't spend long at the shop shelf). Also I got tube in one of them (was leaking air BADLY), that might stiffen the walls too much?
You can see in the videos that couple of starts slicks wrinkled but soon spinned and I went right into the rev limiter (shalezz, you can here rev limiter in all my starts). Other starts they didn't wrinkle at all :/
So, should I run less pressure? Lowest I went was 10psi
Am I right thinking that 8.05s is too high ET for 95mph traps in 1/8?
What should I look for suspension?

[EnemyS15]

Diff, tighter suspension,line lock, newer slicks, and mo power

[Vetal]

if those slicks are as old as you say, they are probably hard and will cause bad traction, get something fresh and try to get some wider wheels with suitable tires. Drag tires may be a bit much for 300 (which i don't see at all in the videos) try some 15x8s with at least a 225 on it, and try to find some pizza cutters for the front. Also suspension with greatly improve traction.Why would you suggest 225 tires, when I can't hook at all on full 8.5 slick?

[marco22]

ok the run down..... you will need

lsd
new tires
full blown suspension
weight and weight transfer

[marco22]

Wow, I'm happy to see that many responses :) give me hope

Regarding VLSD - I have one, stock S13. Although I start to suspect it cause sometimes I spin inner tire when making u-turn. I plan to install 3.69 diff from S14, it should be newer and better I guess. Welded is prohibited, and as I said this is my daily S13 :)
Slicks - yes, I got them in 2007, so they will be at least 5y.o. (providing they didn't spend long at the shop shelf). Also I got tube in one of them (was leaking air BADLY), that might stiffen the walls too much?
You can see in the videos that couple of starts slicks wrinkled but soon spinned and I went right into the rev limiter (shalezz, you can here rev limiter in all my starts). Other starts they didn't wrinkle at all :/
So, should I run less pressure? Lowest I went was 10psi
Am I right thinking that 8.05s is too high ET for 95mph traps in 1/8?
What should I look for suspension?


d2 or stance not the $700 but the little more expensive or go full blown with penske full coilover.. and replace all your suspension arms upper lower toe trac trail etc

[turbociv910]

were the tires open to elements or in a trash bag? if in a trash bag, they should be fine.

suspension is very important when it comes to launching, i hope you know what your doing.

[shalezzz]

(shalezz, you can here rev limiter in all my starts)
Oh i couldn't hear brittney spears was too loud in the background..... And s14 diffs are trash if your looking to not spin get a j30 diff since your putting out that kinda power

[Def]

Stock suspension will make the car launch way better with a stiffer spring rate. Putting some crappy coilovers like Stance or D2 will make it almost impossible to get good weight transfer.

[marco22]

Stock suspension will make the car launch way better with a stiffer spring rate. Putting some crappy coilovers like Stance or D2 will make it almost impossible to get good weight transfer.

disagree the little more expensive ones are worthy... stock suspension will always be a bowl of soup

[turbociv910]

good read- Drag Racing Shocks Tech (http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/dragshock.shtml)

[marco22]

^^ penske:bow:

[J90lude]

uhh sorry but more power would help your time, go ahead and give that a shot

That's like adding water to electric....wtf

[rcdad123]

i did not see any smoke on any of the videos. maybe you are not getting the slicks warm enough. when i do a burn out at the track, i put the rear tires on the water, spin the tires a little so that the whole thing is covered, then i stop and put it on 2nd gear, engage the staging brakes and then do the burn out. when the slicks start to smoke a lot, let go of the staging brakes and continue the burn out for about 10-15 feet. also a softer rear suspension will allow more weight to transfer to the rear of the car. put the battery in the trunk and make sure your wheel alignment is spot on. experiment with the tire pressure. i was running 6 psi on a front wheel drive car using hoosier 24.5x 9x13 slicks. you might have to use sheet metal screws drilled on the rim lip to keep the slicks from spinning on the wheel. i used six per side to keep mine from slipping. i think your vlsd does not work anymore. you might need to invest in a mechanical lsd.

[Vetal]

i think your vlsd does not work anymore. you might need to invest in a mechanical lsd.do you see that on video? or going by my words? cause it's an interesting moment -on video you can't really see massive wheelspin, but you can here rev limiter all the 1st gear. So it's either clutch slipping (which isn't), or the other (left) wheel, that would mean my VLSD is failing. I don't know...
P.S. I tried much longer burnouts before, but didn't notice any benefits, thus I started to do shortish burnouts (also MT recommends only short burnouts AFAIR). On this tarmac warming up tires is like trying to warm up cheese on a cheese grater...

[ericcastro]

Just from watching the video, i thought you had an open because the way your weight transferes funny and the wheel doesnt seem to spin to traction very smooth/while the clutch grabs.

Its just seemed like a weird launch.

Im not a big drag guy though, only got to do it a few times.
but i have seen alot of cars launch at the track, lol.

[Vetal]

Nope, it is (or was) VLSD.

Here's very good video of just launches guys made for me:
Draga starti - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfadZiD5ozk)

[Croustibat]

S13 and S14 VLSDs are poo, forget them. get an S15 spec r diff with half shafts (they are torsens), it work a treat.

You may also want an S14 subframe, S13 one has a lot of builtin anti squat, and lowering the car worsened that. If modifying suframe is ok, you could change the front RLCA pickup points and lower them to get rid of the antisquat. Another way to do that without mods is lowering rear subframe front pickup point(add some metal plates between subframe and chassis), and raising the rear pickup points (cut the upper part of the bushes). This calls for adjustable traction arms to reset toe pickup point at the correct position.

I also have trouble understanding people saying "use harder springs" ??? If he wants traction, he needs softer ones !

[Vetal]

were the tires open to elements or in a trash bag? if in a trash bag, they should be fine.

suspension is very important when it comes to launching, i hope you know what your doing.tires were open or wrapped slightly, inside in winter, in garage all other time
Well I don't know what to do with suspension :) that's why I made this topic :)

[jr_ss]

Best suspension for drag is factory suspension. You want the ass end to squat for weight transfer. If they(struts) are blown it could be hurting you slightly. You do not want coilovers at the strip unless they were designed with drag racing in-mind, such as the HKS drags... Upgrade your differential to a Torsen, or a clutch type diff. I think a 1-1.5way would work good, you don't need a 2way as you don't need lock-up on decel/off throttle.

[Black R]

S14 rear subframe.

Q45 rear end if you're putting a lot of power down.

Wheelie bars if they're allowed in your class.

New drag tires.

Go with a drag coilover setup in the rear - enough to squat and bite.

Try a welded diff if this is mostly a drag car.

Check your rear alignment and make sure you take all camber and no toe out either.

2.0 is bad on slicks.

[typhoonslippery]

stock sturs/springs in front and HKS Drag coilovers in the rear and maybe even some lead plates in place of the spare tire for better weight transfer

also better wider slicks and line lock to heat them up

[marco22]

You do not want coilovers at the strip unless they were designed with drag racing in-mind, such as the HKS drags... .

thats what i said d2 and stance has a drag setup. penske is a full race suspension and will out do everything a little more expensive but they last a long time

[Walperstyle]

c4 ford automatic transmission. ask Brad D from ka-t.org

[89JDM240sx]

Better Traction:

Newer Slick's what I used to do is get a wheel barrel and soak the tires in Pepsi or track bite ( older muscle guy taught me that )

Diff and subframe bushing's will help a lot
LSD will play a major part in traction try a 2way
Upgrade your traction rods in the rear of the car...

And stock suspension with the right spring rate works well to...

[Vetal]

c4 ford automatic transmission. ask Brad D from ka-t.orgnot a budget thing and not a daily driver anymore

[Vetal]

Better Traction:

Newer Slick's what I used to do is get a wheel barrel and soak the tires in Pepsi or track bite ( older muscle guy taught me that )did it help?

Diff and subframe bushing's will help a lot
LSD will play a major part in traction try a 2wayjust new bushings, or what?
So, VLSD from S14 is not good?
Upgrade your traction rods in the rear of the car...I don't quite understand which rods :(

[Flicktitty]

i think a big problem is the track surface itself. Do the people at the track prep it at all? (VHT,pimp juice,etc) some sort of traction additive on it? It would appear they don't as the track doesn't have any darker shades in it like most well prepped tracks. So it looks like to me as if you are just racing on the street.

not sure what suspension is currently on the car, but i would put some stock suspension on it. unless you are in the market for a drag only suspension. What rpm are you launching your car at? have you tried playing with higher/lower RPM?

[89JDM240sx]

Yes soaking them helped a lot! H2B bubble head package ran 11.96 before and after 11.63

If I'm not mistaken you have the S13 VSLD right... It works just as well as the the S14 and yes get new bushings SOLID try Sikky, SPL, or Stance

And search images on the Net of S13 traction rods... I have the SPL ones in my S13

[Vetal]

Yes track is AWFUL. No prep. I can do 1.8 60ft on the concrete or just good street asphalt but on our OFFICIAL track - no better than 2.05
Perhaps this video will give you some impression. 700HP Evo destroying proper 1100HP dragster.
Dragrace (1/8 mile) - Prospeed Evo IX vs Chevy Camaro Dragster - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-S5VK4kjGc)

Now I have stock suspension but lowered a bit. Start at 6000 not to risk bogging down.

[Vetal]

Yes soaking them helped a lot! H2B bubble head package ran 11.96 before and after 11.63

If I'm not mistaken you have the S13 VSLD right... It works just as well as the the S14 and yes get new bushings SOLID try Sikky, SPL, or Stance

And search images on the Net of S13 traction rods... I have the SPL ones in my S13strange, I've never seen anything about soaking them in cola...
Yes S13 VLSD BUT I'm not sure how "alive" it is now.
I could get polyurethane bushings if it does help. But not solid - it's DAILY driven car

[89JDM240sx]

Yea Pepsi or Coke makes them sticky... Over here in my town theirs. It to many places where you can get track bite... So we get a little creative... Lol

And yes Poly's will do

[Vetal]

Can poly bushings in rear give me at least 0.1s in 1/4? Cause if it's more like 0.01, then it's not what I should care about first...

[Walperstyle]

not a budget thing and not a daily driver anymore

I don't understand what you are saying.

KA-T.org - The Home of 1000+ whp/7 sec Turbo KA's (http://ka-t.org/brad_d.php)
10.96 1/4 mile, @ 126 MPH


are you saying you wish to keep your car daily driver? I wouldn't. There is a tipping point where a street car is not safe for the road. Brad D's car is still street legal.

Automatic Transmissions are good for drag racing. Especially a built C4 ford.

...but hey, you can take advice from a bunch of drifter wannabe's if you want.

[ericcastro]

also looks like you are getting your but kicked off the line. dump that clutch as the last yellow is about to go off.
that elise was a length ahead of you a foot over the line.

[Walperstyle]

Sorry if I'm coming off as offensive. I only know what my friends have done. Tire choice is most important, but next is drivetrain.

[Vetal]

Well C4 is not going in my S13. Not now :) I spent last season swapping M6 for A4 on my other car and I can't say I'm happy with it in city. Plus few month of my time and a lot of money. Not at this point :)

ericcastro, yes, few starts were lost due to reaction, I know )

[rcdad123]

c4 trans or any automatic trans absorb a lot of power and also very heavy. not to mention the price of an adapter and buying a few torque converters to get the "right" one, can get pretty expensive.

[Vetal]

That's right. Lot of money and work and reduced streetability. Besides, I just feel that my times can be improved on manual box too :)
I just need to get good advises and research more on the suspension/tire size/diff subject.

Is there any LSD that can be had for cheap? I know prices on new ones begin at probably $800 which I can't see being cost-effective mod...

[marco22]

Can poly bushings in rear give me at least 0.1s in 1/4? Cause if it's more like 0.01, then it's not what I should care about first...
forget poly go for solid alumin, heim joints and or mono bear

[Vetal]

No solid anything in daily car on our shitty roads

[Croustibat]

Is there any LSD that can be had for cheap? I know prices on new ones begin at probably $800 which I can't see being cost-effective mod...

second hand S15 spec R diff with halfshafts and nismo crown bolts. It is a torsen unit, can be found for 400-500$ i think.


No solid anything in daily car on our shitty roads

I agree solid engine and gearbox mounts are very harsh on street, but solid rear subframe mounts is really ok. The only difference i felt comfort wise is the diff can be heard whining a bit. The ride is not harsher.

Still, it will mostly improve control, which would be good if the car is all over the place. Otherwise it wont do much, i cant see how it will noticeably improve traction.

Except ... if you use subframe riser mounts. that should give you a bit less anti squat.

[Vetal]

S15 not cheap... Half of price of decent LSD, or am I wrong?

Car is pretty stable, and I also can't see how it would improve traction.
Riser mounts? Where do they go? Do they tilt subframe somehow or what?

[Croustibat]

S15 spec R only. the spec S has an open diff. They usually go for 300-350£ on sxoc, but they dont stay very long.

subframe risers are special aluminium bushes: they "raise" the subframe. In fact the subframe mount points become flush with the chassis, whereas usual bushes have 1cm of material between the subframe mount and the chassis. It allows lowering the rear of the car while keeping stock arm position. Which means no messed up geometry. Same effect as lowering knuckle with relocated wheel bearings.

If you want better traction, you can get the rear higher and have soft springs. it will give less anti squat and create more weight transfer to the rear.

[Vetal]

What other good diffs can we use? I guess OBX diffs I see on Ebay for 380$ are crap?
Also, I think main gear like 3.3 or near that would help, is it hard to get such gear?
subframe risers are special aluminium bushes: they "raise" the subframe. In fact the subframe mount points become flush with the chassis, whereas usual bushes have 1cm of material between the subframe mount and the chassis. It allows lowering the rear of the car while keeping stock arm position. Which means no messed up geometry. Same effect as lowering knuckle with relocated wheel bearings.

If you want better traction, you can get the rear higher and have soft springs. it will give less anti squat and create more weight transfer to the rear.So, just "shorter" bushes, so subframe is higher relative to the chassis? Does it really give smth.?
"get the rear higher and have soft springs" - are you talking about coilovers?

[Yellow4g63]

How are you launch your car off the line? are you preloading the transmission then dropping the hammer and ebrake at the same time? or are you just sitting on launch control and dropping the hammer out of the hole? Also how long are you warming the tires up for when u do your burn out?

[Vetal]

How are you launch your car off the line? are you preloading the transmission then dropping the hammer and ebrake at the same time? or are you just sitting on launch control and dropping the hammer out of the hole? Also how long are you warming the tires up for when u do your burn out?I just sit there in gear, no preload, and then release clutch quick. I don't have launch control either...

[Croustibat]

It gives a little bit more squat, which is what you want.

TBH, using better rubbers will yield a huge improvement, much more than any geometry trick. That and a working LSD diff.

Best bang for the buck is an S15 torsen . you cant beat that without a 1000$ budget.

[Vetal]

Read that it's possible to shim VLSD to perform better, do you know smth. about that? I have hard time believe 20y.o. viscous fluid can be helped...
P.S. Did test my VLSD yesterday - going in circle, wheels fully turned, it spins inner wheel only :( probably cold weather affects also, but seems it has finished it's life span

[Flicktitty]

get better tires (newer) and a better diff.

and try going to a actual DRAG track not a road course that markes off 1/8 or 1/4 mile that will actually PREP the track.

[ChemtrailsSR86]

One thing that is always going to work against you is your IRS rear end. Period.

[Vetal]

get better tires (newer) and a better diff.

and try going to a actual DRAG track not a road course that markes off 1/8 or 1/4 mile that will actually PREP the track.How exactly should I go to "actual DRAG track"? :) drive 400 miles then take a ferry then to the track and then all the way back? Thanks for trolling me :)

[Croustibat]

Read that it's possible to shim VLSD to perform better, do you know smth. about that?

I do know something about that. It is utter garbage.

The diff needs to be shimmed properly. What these guys do is put bigger shims than needed, which in turn apply more than needed forces on inner diff gears. This gives the same effect as an LSD that locks just a little bit, but it completely grind down the gears. You will be ruining your diff in not a lot of time. And i mean the diff, no the limiting slip unit.

It "works" on any open diff, the actual VLSD unit has nothing to do with it.
Dont do that.

[Yellow4g63]

I just sit there in gear, no preload, and then release clutch quick. I don't have launch control either...

How big is your turbo? full boost @3k? 4k? A staging limiter will help you out off the line. WOT Box - N2MB Racing (http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox) you can set that up if there is no launch control rom for your ecu.

[Vetal]

I do know something about that. It is utter garbage.

The diff needs to be shimmed properly. What these guys do is put bigger shims than needed, which in turn apply more than needed forces on inner diff gears. This gives the same effect as an LSD that locks just a little bit, but it completely grind down the gears. You will be ruining your diff in not a lot of time. And i mean the diff, no the limiting slip unit.

It "works" on any open diff, the actual VLSD unit has nothing to do with it.
Dont do that.hmm, that's actually quite interesting, as open diffs can be easily had for 50$ here! how does it lock compared to let's say S15 LSD? Or does it become more like welded, when both axles are locked all the time?

[Vetal]

How big is your turbo? full boost @3k? 4k? A staging limiter will help you out off the line. WOT Box - N2MB Racing (http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox) you can set that up if there is no launch control rom for your ecu.I'll be putting pretty big turbo.
Hm, what I dislike about that WOT box is that it cuts spark, so it's easy to flood the engine the way I see it? also they're .7s drops in ET look a bit too optimistic

[Vetal]

I see S15 LSDs go for around 190$ on ebay, what's the catch??
JDM Nissa S15 Silvia Helical LSD S13 S14 RB20 200sx differential rear diff | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/140712238639)

[slow92]

I know you are having problems hooking up but a 2 step or launch control module would do wonders for your car especially if you are using a larger turbo. It would allow you to build boost while staging. Plus you could go the route of getting a window switch and using nitrous which would allow you spray off the line and then decrease as your boost level increases.

My buddy used this same set up on his twin turbo mustang and it did wonders for his car, that is until he installed an auto with a stall.

[Croustibat]

I see S15 LSDs go for around 190$ on ebay, what's the catch??
JDM Nissa S15 Silvia Helical LSD S13 S14 RB20 200sx differential rear diff | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/140712238639)

it is missing the half shafts and the bolts. And shipping doubles the price.

[Vetal]

it is missing the half shafts and the bolts. And shipping doubles the price.So if I get only core it will not work with vlsd half shafts?
And this is still missing the bolts?
JDM Nissan S15 Silvia Helical LSD S13 S14 RB20 SR20 differential rear diff | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/180829517884)

[Yellow4g63]

I'll be putting pretty big turbo.
Hm, what I dislike about that WOT box is that it cuts spark, so it's easy to flood the engine the way I see it? also they're .7s drops in ET look a bit too optimistic

I doubt you will flood the engine since it's not cutting the spark for longer than a sec. You won't be in at vacuum when your on the limiter so the turbo will be spooling up before you leave the line. They might have some roms that can do it but if not get the box or jump to a stand alone so u can do WOT shifting too.

[ChemtrailsSR86]

what u need is good weight transfer. To much sqaut is not good.

Rear springs should be a little stiffer for a drag car but many people think that the car should "squat" during the launch so they install softer rear springs on the car to accomplish this. The only cars that should be squatting during the launch are those cars that shock the tires very hard (4-speed cars) and with enough power where the car will overpower the tires. Prostock cars actually squat during launch because they develop enough torque and hit the tires so hard that the squatting helps absorb some of the shock and keeps from overpowering the tires. But, setting up the car to squat is not a function of the springs. It is the position of the Instant Center (IC) that determines how the car squats. The STOCK mounting points for the control arms already cause the car to squat which can unload the tires. So in order to compensate for this squatting the springs need to be stiff to transfer the force to the tires.
If the rear end squats that means that the rear springs/shocks are not pushing the rear tires into the ground. They are just compressing. For the most part you don't want the rear to squat because you want some resistance from the springs/shocks to transfer the force/weight to the tires.

[jr_ss]

So if I get only core it will not work with vlsd half shafts?
And this is still missing the bolts?
JDM Nissan S15 Silvia Helical LSD S13 S14 RB20 SR20 differential rear diff | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/180829517884)

Yes, you need the S15 Helical half shafts... You can use the old bolts from your ring gear to install them on to the S15 diff or buy new bolts.

[Vetal]

what u need is good weight transfer. To much sqaut is not good.

Rear springs should be a little stiffer for a drag car but many people think that the car should "squat" during the launch so they install softer rear springs on the car to accomplish this. The only cars that should be squatting during the launch are those cars that shock the tires very hard (4-speed cars) and with enough power where the car will overpower the tires. Prostock cars actually squat during launch because they develop enough torque and hit the tires so hard that the squatting helps absorb some of the shock and keeps from overpowering the tires. But, setting up the car to squat is not a function of the springs. It is the position of the Instant Center (IC) that determines how the car squats. The STOCK mounting points for the control arms already cause the car to squat which can unload the tires. So in order to compensate for this squatting the springs need to be stiff to transfer the force to the tires.
If the rear end squats that means that the rear springs/shocks are not pushing the rear tires into the ground. They are just compressing. For the most part you don't want the rear to squat because you want some resistance from the springs/shocks to transfer the force/weight to the tires.I know this is true for solid-axle, that car shouldn't squat at all (except extreme cases which are of no interest for most enthusiasts). However I don't know if car should squat on IRS. If i remember correctly, few people say they got better 60ft when then put back stock springs/shocks :/
what u need is good weight transfer. To much sqaut is not good.that's the real question, how do I get better weight transfer?

[[email protected]]

Wow so many things going in so many different directions lol

Look save your $ stick with the stock suspension
Use your ebrake or get a line lock to load up the motor/drivetrain it will allow your to build a little boost and keep you from shocking your trans/rearend

Your tires re keep replace them as they are a tad old run them from 8-10 psi
2/3gear burn outs to get them sticky.

Practice power shifting that will minimize lost power between shifts.

Another thing that these guys won't tell you is a IRS set up will benefit from a good sized rear sway bar!
Rear sway bar you say? Yes and no it's not for turning but it helps the rear squat evenly and follow thru with the weight transfer

Sit back and enjoy the rude.

[Vetal]

Here's S13 running [email protected], seems very stiff both rear and front.
[email protected] LS1 240sx - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIX8n6Wivo8)

I still wonder whether you need soft suspension when grip is almost none

[Vetal]

[email protected], yes, this is getting crazy :) would be OK if not for opposite opinions of what suspension must be - stiff or soft.
what's ebrake? hand brake? how do you think to load up?
Yes I try to do powershifting but sometimes it won't go into gear...

[[email protected]]

Well the biggest issue is I'm sure 98% of the people here don't drag race let alone have set ups with power. Yes ebrake is emergency brake
Suspension can be either stuff or soft it's a matter of the front and rear suspension working together to transfer the weight while maintaining traction. I personally have stock suspension on mine front and rear then I will be playing with different set ups

[Vetal]

Well I need some good advises from people with real knowledge and/or experience :)
Regarding preload - what did you mean? release clutch until it starts barely moving the car?
I'm thinking about putting stock springs on mine... Until I'll find some inexpensive drag shocks/springs

[[email protected]]

Well basically ease up till your pre staged revving up the motor to your launch rpm
Once the pre is lit pull up on the ebrake then slowly ease up on the clutch you should feel the rear dip a little that means the brakes are engaged.
Give a little more clutch to ease the car up to STAGE then leave as is and once the 3rd yellow flashes drop the ebrake and bring the clutch out don't dump it

[Vetal]

Would I still benefit from 2-step, if I don't need boost at launch (not enough traction)? Why is it called "2-step" at all?
Has anyone else used this N2MB Racing (http://www.n2mb.com) WOT box, is it good? Any cheaper or better 2-steps?

[[email protected]]

2step/anti lag will buid boost while your holding the peddle down so that you floored on e you come out the hole al while not reving the hell out the car.
If its not a good track there's no need to get all i to goodies because your biggest key is to get the car the hook all these other things won't help if you can't lock down the basics

[Vetal]

Hmm, I'm not sure that more boost or power will help! =) But I will try both. Currently looking at N2MB WOT box

[1fastssilvia]

uhh sorry but more power would help your time, go ahead and give that a shothttp://www.aahdating.com/am.jpg
if hes concerned about 60ft times more power will certianly not benifit him...at all

[Vetal]

if hes concerned about 60ft times more power will certianly not benifit him...at allDon't worry, my "weird advises and misinformation" filter works fine :)

[Vetal]

Found out old image of my track asphalt:
http://www.bmwpower.lv/files/member_galleries/34/3976/500/1208725638_29209.jpg

[Vetal]

Heh, installed stock springs :)))
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/473140_290725504342547_100002152986227_631778_1982 428159_o.jpg