ComicArtist
02-25-2012, 09:41 PM
Don't really want to get rid of her, but I need a new drift project, and I can't afford to have this, the S30, and another drift car.
So here goes.
Make/Model: Mazda Miata
Year: 1990
Mileage: 136k
Trans: Manual
Color: Red/black
Contact Info:
Ben Gibson
918-348-2921 (texting preferred)
[email protected]
Price: $2,700
^ I'm doing something a little unusual with the price, so keep reading.
Mod list:
CXRacing dual core radiator + electric fans
XXR 002's, 15x8 -0, painted white.
195/50r15's
Raceland Coilovers
Extended RUCA's for less camber (dorifto)
eBay exhaust (left exit, cut rear bumper)
VIS Racing carbon fiber hood/hood pins
Gutted interior!
Stitch welded/painted interior
Sparco Evo bucket seat
JDM purple bubble shift knob
Purple NRG style steering wheel
Switch panel
Half dash conversion
New fuel pump
New clutch master/slave cylinders
Transmission is out of a '94 (doesn't have the sticking problems that the '90 - '91's had)
VLSD
PROS:
Clean Oklahoma title. The body, while not perfect, is pretty damn straight for a 22 year old car. Normal wear and dings, but the two major issues have been fixed. The PO backed into something, putting a dent in the quarter, and the fender was bent up. I've pulled, filled, sanded, and resprayed those, resulting in the fender and quarter being slightly brighter and shinier. Some clear coat is fading on the rest of the car.
The chassis is 98% rust free. The only rust I've found is in the area above the fuel pump, which was just surface rust and which I fixed.
Has 136k miles on the 1.6, runs great. I've dailyed this car for a year, slid multiple events, and driven it hard on the street. Burns a little oil, about a quart every 1,700 miles. I've only run fully synthetic through it, changing it every 2,500 miles.
Has what looks like a custom header, because it's welded, and not cast. I didn't know until I removed the heat shield a few weeks ago. PO must have done it.
This car is very reliable. Only problem that I've had with it is when the alternator went out about six months ago, which I replaced immediately as well as the battery.
CONS:
The tach, oil pressure gauge, and temp gauge don't work. There must be a loose ground somewhere, since they're the only electrical gauges in the cluster. Never had cooling or oil pressure problems though. They quit working about a month ago, and haven't had time to find the ground.
Drivers side half shaft is starting to go out, you can hear the CV joint clicking on decel. If you get under the car and wiggle it, you can feel about 1mm of play in the joint. I'd replace it eventually, but I've been driving on it for about 4 months and haven't had a problem.
No heater due to the gutted interior, but I still have all the controls and heater core that I will include with the sale.
Car also needs an alignment. The steering starts to vibrate at speeds higher than 65mph.
Overall, this is a really fun car and I'd like to keep it, but can't afford to have three cars on insurance. This would be a reliable daily, or a good track car. I was about to cage it, but decided to go with a different chassis instead.
The deal with the price is:
I'm asking $2,700, a fair price for the car as it sits. However, I'm going to keep working on this and fixing the issues I listed in the cons section. The more things I fix, the price will increase accordingly. Therefore, if no one buys this immediately, the cons list will decrease, and the price will increase accordingly.
If you have any negative comments, please just PM me with them and don't spam up the thread. Thank you.
Trades:
I'll consider:
Stock S13 + cash
Lightly modded S13
Stock FC + cash
Lightly modded FC
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2788.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2790.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2796.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2798.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2800.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2807.jpg
So here goes.
Make/Model: Mazda Miata
Year: 1990
Mileage: 136k
Trans: Manual
Color: Red/black
Contact Info:
Ben Gibson
918-348-2921 (texting preferred)
[email protected]
Price: $2,700
^ I'm doing something a little unusual with the price, so keep reading.
Mod list:
CXRacing dual core radiator + electric fans
XXR 002's, 15x8 -0, painted white.
195/50r15's
Raceland Coilovers
Extended RUCA's for less camber (dorifto)
eBay exhaust (left exit, cut rear bumper)
VIS Racing carbon fiber hood/hood pins
Gutted interior!
Stitch welded/painted interior
Sparco Evo bucket seat
JDM purple bubble shift knob
Purple NRG style steering wheel
Switch panel
Half dash conversion
New fuel pump
New clutch master/slave cylinders
Transmission is out of a '94 (doesn't have the sticking problems that the '90 - '91's had)
VLSD
PROS:
Clean Oklahoma title. The body, while not perfect, is pretty damn straight for a 22 year old car. Normal wear and dings, but the two major issues have been fixed. The PO backed into something, putting a dent in the quarter, and the fender was bent up. I've pulled, filled, sanded, and resprayed those, resulting in the fender and quarter being slightly brighter and shinier. Some clear coat is fading on the rest of the car.
The chassis is 98% rust free. The only rust I've found is in the area above the fuel pump, which was just surface rust and which I fixed.
Has 136k miles on the 1.6, runs great. I've dailyed this car for a year, slid multiple events, and driven it hard on the street. Burns a little oil, about a quart every 1,700 miles. I've only run fully synthetic through it, changing it every 2,500 miles.
Has what looks like a custom header, because it's welded, and not cast. I didn't know until I removed the heat shield a few weeks ago. PO must have done it.
This car is very reliable. Only problem that I've had with it is when the alternator went out about six months ago, which I replaced immediately as well as the battery.
CONS:
The tach, oil pressure gauge, and temp gauge don't work. There must be a loose ground somewhere, since they're the only electrical gauges in the cluster. Never had cooling or oil pressure problems though. They quit working about a month ago, and haven't had time to find the ground.
Drivers side half shaft is starting to go out, you can hear the CV joint clicking on decel. If you get under the car and wiggle it, you can feel about 1mm of play in the joint. I'd replace it eventually, but I've been driving on it for about 4 months and haven't had a problem.
No heater due to the gutted interior, but I still have all the controls and heater core that I will include with the sale.
Car also needs an alignment. The steering starts to vibrate at speeds higher than 65mph.
Overall, this is a really fun car and I'd like to keep it, but can't afford to have three cars on insurance. This would be a reliable daily, or a good track car. I was about to cage it, but decided to go with a different chassis instead.
The deal with the price is:
I'm asking $2,700, a fair price for the car as it sits. However, I'm going to keep working on this and fixing the issues I listed in the cons section. The more things I fix, the price will increase accordingly. Therefore, if no one buys this immediately, the cons list will decrease, and the price will increase accordingly.
If you have any negative comments, please just PM me with them and don't spam up the thread. Thank you.
Trades:
I'll consider:
Stock S13 + cash
Lightly modded S13
Stock FC + cash
Lightly modded FC
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2788.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2790.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2796.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2798.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2800.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/_DSC2807.jpg