Not starting after rebuild

[c_mancuyas8]

Rebuilt my head this weekend and my car is not starting. Replace spark plugs, distributer, rotor. Im getting spark at the coil and I know Im getting fuel because its all over the plugs. Initially I thought the distributor was in backwards but when switched around still nothing. The engine will turn over but not start. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks- Chris

Edit: Before pulling the head i had 170 across all four cylinders. Now I have 0? Any ideas?

[Pro ViZIon]

If the cam timing is right then I'd say you messed up somewhere with your valves. Is it 0 on all four? Your valves might not be seating properly.

[c_mancuyas8]

If the cam timing is right then I'd say you messed up somewhere with your valves. Is it 0 on all four? Your valves might not be seating properly.

Yes it is zero on all four. Im guessing Im going to need to pull the head back off :(

UPDATE!!!!

This issue is getting more and more confusing. The cams and cam gears seem to be spot on with timing.

Today I set crank at tdc by the timing marks on idler pulley and distributor rotor. Upon taking the valve cover off and looking at the cam gears everything seems to be exactly where they should be heres pics.

At tdc this is what cam gears look like. I marked the dimples with white out as well as the chain when i pull them thats why its white.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/6911737827_b66f6f8f66_z.jpg

Heres the cam orientation at tdc from exhaust side

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7046/6911734925_f1b46cd263_z.jpg

I have no clue what to do next :/

[cbcm2435]

were the white marks on the gears and chain lined up when you took them off?

[c_mancuyas8]

Yes I marked the chain and the cam gear when I pulled it off to keep time.

[cbcm2435]

did you have cyl 1 a tdc when you re installed everything. if cylinder one is at tdc all your cam timing marks should be lined up

[c_mancuyas8]

Yeah it was at tdc set it by timing mark on idler pulley and verified at dist rotor before pulling it out. Ive done this several times before which is why i'm so stumped.

[cbcm2435]

you could always do a leak down test and see where the air is leaking out at, it sounds like you are going to have to pull your head back off though

[c_mancuyas8]

I hate to say it but Im sure Im going to also :/

[Dark Spec]

ive had this problem before and yeah it has to do with timing not being set right and i too think you are going to have to pull the head again, i did....

[c_mancuyas8]

Theres one major thing that i have no idea how I looked over but I didnt set valve lash :/ (Member on ka-t.org suggested that) Thats the first thing Im goin to do tomorow and Ill report back with what Ive found.

[CleanAndLegit]

wow I'm having the same issue I'm doing a compression and leak down test tomorrow, if all goes bad I'm throwing this ka away just gonna go sr again

[c_mancuyas8]

NOOOOOOOO! Dont do it what all have you done?

[Pro ViZIon]

It's definitely valves. The timing wouldn't affect the compression that much. If it was that bad you'd be taking out the valves.

[CleanAndLegit]

compression was about 70-90 across all 4 might be valves took it to a shop they better fix it

[c_mancuyas8]

I hope they do!

I think I figured out my problem :/ Never again will I work on my engine for more than 12hrs at a time. Being rediculously tired is no way to work on a car.

Lol so I put my valve spring retainers in upside down. I didnt even know they would fit like that, but bc they did they stuck up past the valve stem and created a clearance issue keeping all my valves apartially opened. Ill be the first to say.. Im an idiot!

[Pro ViZIon]

Lol. I knew it was something like that.

[project-c2]

IDK if it makes a difference, but my green/blue painted cam is on my exhaust. That's the way mine was when I disassembled it.

[Pro ViZIon]

If it's an S13 motor then it does matter, the cams are 240/248. If S14 probably not, the cams are 232/232.

[TJM240]

Good job getting it right.